Universal Outboard Power Chassis for Pass

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Happy to do it. If there's anything else specific that would help anyone or provide ideas, I'm happy to post.
So I take it that the measurement you took was not on a power supply rail , but rather on a speaker output .
Correct. I was measuring "amplifier noise" vs. PSU noise. I'm not sure of the PSRR of the A60.

One trick , if the noise and ripple on the +Ve rail , is equal and opposite in phase , to the noise and ripple on the -Ve rail ,
the noise gets cancelled out when Vout = 0 Vdc .
Thanks! Awesome tip.

That's also why I love differential signaling. Super quiet. In fairness, with a few amps, it does seem to maybe take away some of the H2 "magic", but it's fun to play with.

I've seen Ben post some tips re: measuring PSU noise. When I get some time, I may give it a try.

:cheers:
 
On another note I have had some buzzing even from the best of transformers the past couple of years. So I bought a Toroidy DC blocker for testing, which arrived today. A big difference, even with that huge PSU depicted a few posts back. And no, snubbers not installed - yet. But I guess those tranniecores were saturated (not in a sexual way). Gonna do some more listening and measurements of the wall outlets different times of day. But I am not parting with that blocker now!

Would be cool to make a complete PSU board with room for it all, including a DC blocking circuit. Need to learn KiCAD, soon. Too many thoughts, no fruition.

What are the differences? Tighter and more articulated bass, and a better soundstage. Cleaner, sharper but in a good way. And better tonality. This with a AJ MZM amp.
 
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I know. This time I wanted to know I needed it before building anything new (time vs greenhornynezz). But I would preferably like it inside the chassis, hence the idea of a complete pcb from secondaries to outputs with all bells and whistles. Would be cool.

But first I need to build my long awaited choke input supply :rofl:

I know I know, better off quitting.

Is there DC in Serbia?
 
Here's the monoblock amp (now with F6) after making the changes recommended on this thread. Much thanks to you all.

F6-Monoblock.jpeg
 
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A question for the grandpas: Since outboard chassis easily has room for it, why not consider an inductor for noise filtering at the primary side? Papa mention this in his old PSU article. And if so, what kind of inductor should one be looking for?

I could try to answer this . When current flows through an inductor it creates a magnetic field . Inductors store energy in a magnetic field .
But then that magnetic field turns around , an opposes any changes in the current .
So if a large choke were connected on the hot , before the primary side of the transformer , the choke would oppose any sudden changes in current
needed by the transformer.

However , there are 2 types of noise on the Hydro - Common Mode noise and Differential mode noise .
Here is an explanation of a common mode choke - designed to be connected before the primaries .


https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/54/8100_series-777217.pdf

Many EMI filters are designed to stop switch mode power supplies putting noise back on the Hydro .
So for many commercially made EMI filters , you'll see caps connected between the Hot and Hydro Earth
and the Neutral and Hydro Earth .

But with audio equipment , the EMI filter should be designed to stop common mode noise reaching the primaries .
IMO Hydro Earth is quite noisy , and its NOT to electrical code to have a dedicated Hydro Earth for an audio system .
A residence should only have 1 earthing ground .
As such , IMO its best not to connect caps between Hot and Earth , and Neutral and Earth .

You'll notice the designer of the fo felix does not connects these caps .
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ilter-for-ac-mains-120-230v-by-folsom.321223/

.
 
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