About the Amphenol - Abbotec makes these nice retaining rings to make installation quicker and easier. You would just need some 4-40 screws. All of the newer product I service incorporates these things, I like 'em.
About the Powerpoles - Not everyone loves them. But I suspect in some of those cases the problem was using (intentional or not) cheap knock-offs, or simply not built properly. And I suspect you would want the 30A contacts for what we're doing here. You pick the contacts based on what size wire you would be using, the blade part is the same on all of them.
About the Powerpoles - Not everyone loves them. But I suspect in some of those cases the problem was using (intentional or not) cheap knock-offs, or simply not built properly. And I suspect you would want the 30A contacts for what we're doing here. You pick the contacts based on what size wire you would be using, the blade part is the same on all of them.
Attachments
Ditto
Still thinking what is best as well... Can't get mind off surplus aerospace.
^ Surplus... interesting.
@william2001 - thank you for that suggestion re: the retaining ring.
The primary benefit of the Powerpole seems to be cost. It's not an insignificant difference. Perhaps if I'm creative... another benefit is that they don't chassis mount. If I chose to go that way, I'd likely run a properly protected umbilical through a nice grommet. As long as I have strain relief of some sort, I'd feel okay about it... if not good. I'm running through scenarios. I think... that If I left enough slack on each end, that I could run the connectors back through the umbilical hole one at a time for separating the two chassis. The connections would be inside each chassis. If I CLEARLY mark each connector, it seems like I could come up with a pretty versatile assembly.
They're slowly winning me over...
Edited to add - I just ordered 20 pair. I think I'll need 8 pair per PSU, per chassis => 16 pair total. If I'm not in love with it, I definitely have another use for them.
@william2001 - thank you for that suggestion re: the retaining ring.
The primary benefit of the Powerpole seems to be cost. It's not an insignificant difference. Perhaps if I'm creative... another benefit is that they don't chassis mount. If I chose to go that way, I'd likely run a properly protected umbilical through a nice grommet. As long as I have strain relief of some sort, I'd feel okay about it... if not good. I'm running through scenarios. I think... that If I left enough slack on each end, that I could run the connectors back through the umbilical hole one at a time for separating the two chassis. The connections would be inside each chassis. If I CLEARLY mark each connector, it seems like I could come up with a pretty versatile assembly.
They're slowly winning me over...
Edited to add - I just ordered 20 pair. I think I'll need 8 pair per PSU, per chassis => 16 pair total. If I'm not in love with it, I definitely have another use for them.
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There's like a dozen different colors available. And you can stack 'em like legos, vertically or horizontally.
^ Ah crud. I didn't see the different colors. I just ordered. LOL! Maybe I can modify my order.
Edited to add - I'm debating this also....
https://www.acerracing.com/collecti...mount-for-4-powerpoles-sets-with-8-conductors
Edited to add - I'm debating this also....
https://www.acerracing.com/collecti...mount-for-4-powerpoles-sets-with-8-conductors
@william2001 -
I suppose the critical part is the electrical contact / metal vs. the shell, but I could not find the different colors on their website after looking again. Did I miss them?
If they're not sold directly, do you happen to know if these are 'legit'?
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powe...MIuaKw9qW3gAMVZPGUCR1kUwbFEAYYBCABEgKwGvD_BwE
I suppose the critical part is the electrical contact / metal vs. the shell, but I could not find the different colors on their website after looking again. Did I miss them?
If they're not sold directly, do you happen to know if these are 'legit'?
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powe...MIuaKw9qW3gAMVZPGUCR1kUwbFEAYYBCABEgKwGvD_BwE
Ya, seems like a legitimate place. And appear to carry everything.
*edit - contacts are described as silver-plated copper which is what we want, so that's good. The cheap copies don't have that.
*edit - contacts are described as silver-plated copper which is what we want, so that's good. The cheap copies don't have that.
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I use battery connectors in many of my power amplifiers to connect the power supply to the amplifier board. In my opinion they are much better than Faston blade type connectors soldered on the pcb. I have not used the Anderson connectors but it looks like they can be interlocked/stacked together to form one unit with multiple connectors. They have male/female grooves on their sides to accomplish that.
I use them on my ham radio stuff. Proper assembly is the key to trouble free operation.
Here is one legit vendor: http://www.westmountainradio.com/pp-cables.php
Here is one legit vendor: http://www.westmountainradio.com/pp-cables.php
I really appreciate all the ideas.
For starters...
I am going to use the Powerpole connectors. I like that they offer a chassis-mount solution, with the perfect number of connections, but I won't be using it for the time being. I ordered some of the various colors of their housings from PowerWerx to keep the chances of me cross-wiring minimized. This PSU will be used for various projects and connected / disconnected (at least on the amp side) more often than most.
Also, FWIW, Acer was wonderful. When I e-mailed to swap up my order a bit due to my mistake, they responded on a Sunday outside business hours w/in 45 minutes. 🙂 I always like to share positive experiences with businesses.
I am debating... taking the filter boards off ... desoldering the Fast-On type blades and direct soldering my lead wires. I'm also debating doing the same for the amp boards, but that is a royal PITA.
Most likely that will happen during the next "re-do" or maintenance.
So, the board attachments will still be the blade type going to the Powerpole (for now). Powerpole connections inside each respective chassis.
The pros / cons I've considered...
Chassis mount - Cons - Double the connections / connectors. Big, rectangular holes in whatever chassis or both it's used on. Pros. Clean look for easy connect and disconnect on either side w/o removing the top plate.
Pig tail with connectors outside the chassis on one side or both. Pros - Don't have to take the lid off to disconnect. Cons - Not quite as "clean" a look to me. 8 wires all connected outside the chassis. Not that I need to worry about it really at all, but it also presents the opportunity for little hands (or big dumb doofus hands) to disconnect them unintentionally, which could present a safety hazard b/c I would likely go off the rails (along with the amp).
Connections inside the chassis - Pros - Clean look. Small(ish) round holes that are easier to drill vs. chassis mount block. A bit safer. Cons - need to take the lids off whatever gear needs to be disconnected. Typically, I'd do this only once a month or so, and likely only on the amp side.
I still haven't decided on a strain relief mechanism. I'm looking for something kind of like ...
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Pro...ower+cord+strain+relief&qid=1690799526&sr=8-8
It needs to clamp the umbilical, so accidental tugs on the umbilical from the exterior don't pull the connections inside the chassis. Also, it needs to provide protection against friction of the wiring against the edges of the chassis.
Those types are pretty common, but any other suggestions are welcome.
Got both amp boards mostly biased up... still tweaking. I haven't done the AC gain yet. I'm going to get things more permanently mounted / neater. I may put some tunes through it before getting it all fully inside the chassis for final tweaks.
#dodotip - It's wise to change out the weakling test fuses in the main IEC to something that will actually handle the full current before powering up both boards at full bias w/o a dim bulb or ramping up the power slowly. ~4A5 makes a 2A fuse go poooooooooooof. Follow me on social media for additional methods to cause frustration during amplifier builds.
For starters...
I am going to use the Powerpole connectors. I like that they offer a chassis-mount solution, with the perfect number of connections, but I won't be using it for the time being. I ordered some of the various colors of their housings from PowerWerx to keep the chances of me cross-wiring minimized. This PSU will be used for various projects and connected / disconnected (at least on the amp side) more often than most.
Also, FWIW, Acer was wonderful. When I e-mailed to swap up my order a bit due to my mistake, they responded on a Sunday outside business hours w/in 45 minutes. 🙂 I always like to share positive experiences with businesses.
I am debating... taking the filter boards off ... desoldering the Fast-On type blades and direct soldering my lead wires. I'm also debating doing the same for the amp boards, but that is a royal PITA.
Most likely that will happen during the next "re-do" or maintenance.
So, the board attachments will still be the blade type going to the Powerpole (for now). Powerpole connections inside each respective chassis.
The pros / cons I've considered...
Chassis mount - Cons - Double the connections / connectors. Big, rectangular holes in whatever chassis or both it's used on. Pros. Clean look for easy connect and disconnect on either side w/o removing the top plate.
Pig tail with connectors outside the chassis on one side or both. Pros - Don't have to take the lid off to disconnect. Cons - Not quite as "clean" a look to me. 8 wires all connected outside the chassis. Not that I need to worry about it really at all, but it also presents the opportunity for little hands (or big dumb doofus hands) to disconnect them unintentionally, which could present a safety hazard b/c I would likely go off the rails (along with the amp).
Connections inside the chassis - Pros - Clean look. Small(ish) round holes that are easier to drill vs. chassis mount block. A bit safer. Cons - need to take the lids off whatever gear needs to be disconnected. Typically, I'd do this only once a month or so, and likely only on the amp side.
I still haven't decided on a strain relief mechanism. I'm looking for something kind of like ...
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Pro...ower+cord+strain+relief&qid=1690799526&sr=8-8
It needs to clamp the umbilical, so accidental tugs on the umbilical from the exterior don't pull the connections inside the chassis. Also, it needs to provide protection against friction of the wiring against the edges of the chassis.
Those types are pretty common, but any other suggestions are welcome.
Got both amp boards mostly biased up... still tweaking. I haven't done the AC gain yet. I'm going to get things more permanently mounted / neater. I may put some tunes through it before getting it all fully inside the chassis for final tweaks.
#dodotip - It's wise to change out the weakling test fuses in the main IEC to something that will actually handle the full current before powering up both boards at full bias w/o a dim bulb or ramping up the power slowly. ~4A5 makes a 2A fuse go poooooooooooof. Follow me on social media for additional methods to cause frustration during amplifier builds.
I have seen little clips you can get that will keep the Powerpoles from coming apart (or use some creativity...). Unfortunately the fit is maybe not as snug and secure as some of the other solutions (i.e. aerospace connectors..), it is possible for them to come apart if they get yanked.
I use the Fast-Ons for some of my lower current stuff, they are convenient to use. My amp DC power rail is directly soldered to my PS board, but again you have to get creative if the wire is too big and doesn't fit the PCB holes. Speaker wiring is also direct soldered.
I use the Fast-Ons for some of my lower current stuff, they are convenient to use. My amp DC power rail is directly soldered to my PS board, but again you have to get creative if the wire is too big and doesn't fit the PCB holes. Speaker wiring is also direct soldered.
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That's great information. It makes me feel all-the-better re: making the connections only inside the chassis, where unless someone unscrews the top panel... they cannot be fooled with.
Your tips / practical use cases with these types of connectors in a real-world industrial environment are invaluable.
Your tips / practical use cases with these types of connectors in a real-world industrial environment are invaluable.
FWIW - Mouser and DigiKey also carry some of the Anderson Powerpole products.
Of particular interest to me were the PCB mount products, the retaining pins, and the solutions for making a "block" of connectors into one 'plug'. I am not sure if I'll incorporate any of that into this build, but they present some interesting possibilities in lieu of the 'Fast-On' type blade connectors and other solutions.
I was digging around in hopes that their Blindmate Pak product would serendipitously fit the existing cutout in a back panel for a standard Schurter IEC. Nope.
https://www.andersonpower.com/content/dam/app/ecommerce/product-pdfs/DS-PP1545.pdf
Of particular interest to me were the PCB mount products, the retaining pins, and the solutions for making a "block" of connectors into one 'plug'. I am not sure if I'll incorporate any of that into this build, but they present some interesting possibilities in lieu of the 'Fast-On' type blade connectors and other solutions.
I was digging around in hopes that their Blindmate Pak product would serendipitously fit the existing cutout in a back panel for a standard Schurter IEC. Nope.
https://www.andersonpower.com/content/dam/app/ecommerce/product-pdfs/DS-PP1545.pdf
