Ultimate studio monitors

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Talaerts, that is a great question!



A couple months ago, my wife ran the LA marathon. It was a $250 entry fee or something like that. When she signed up, I asked her whether it wouldn't be cheaper to take a cab 26 miles, and it would get her there faster. She laughed. Because it was a joke. In fact, it's a joke pretty much everyone tells in marathons. So it's not really that funny. Maybe she was just laughing to be nice. . . .



Anyway, the point of all this is not simply to acquire nice monitors. (If that's all I wanted, then I would up my budget and buy Focal SM9s.) The point is to have a fun project.



With all that said, the answer to your question is "yes." This is not my first rodeo. I am not an electrical engineer or an expert, and I've been open (and hopefully humble) about welcoming everyone's thoughts. But I have built enough speakers that I can confidently say "these will come out better than what I could buy for a similar budget." All of my other ones have. I wouldn't spent $1800 on drivers for this project if I were a novice.



But I do appreciate your question.


Well I also made 4 pair of speakers, they are all very good for the money, and yet, when I closely listened to expensive Adam monitors I think it will be very difficult to improve upon such deeply engineered speakers when working alone in a garage.
Of course it is a fun project, I wish you success.

This may be interesting:
http://www.visaton.de/en/bauvorschlaege/2_wege/studio1/index.html
 
You are correct. I was looking at the spec sheet for the wrong driver. Thank you.



That is a really interesting driver. It kinda looks too good to be true, and makes me wonder what I'm missing. I can't find a distortion graph for it, so maybe there's some issue there? If not, why isn't everyone using this driver for their 8" applications? I have read that pro audio drivers sometimes don't sound as good at lower volumes; is that true?

I pulled my 12s out of storage, tested them in several orientations / mic distances. The spec sheet's FR plot seems real: the 3-5dB bump at 2.5kHz is their only flaw. Distortion was flat and low, all <0.5% from 300-several kHz, which is about as well as anything can test in my conditions (noisy PC etc).

Attached is a dodgy, no-baffle, in-room plot done with the driver pointing straight up. Green = raw, black = reflections suppressed. Blue = a very cheap tweeter, for illustrative purposes.

I'm certainly reading it differently than you do, so I'm probably reading it wrong. I'm looking at the SPL chart here. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...or-d3004/6040-10-beryllium-dome-tweeter-each/ It does go up to 40kHz. However, the way I read it is that the 30 degree off-axis response (green line) at 15kHz is 5-6db down from the on-axis response, and the 60 degree response (red line) at 15kHz is 13db down. Am I not reading this correctly? That part of the chart looks very similar to the Morel driver you suggested. But maybe I'm reading it wrong.

The Morel seems to have a pretty steep drop after about 15kHz with the on-axis response. I may be old enough not to notice that anyway.

You guessed right (a post or two on) - I was looking at the non Be spec sheet. The Be driver is bling-tastic.

The Morel is still more directional. Attached are the plots, re-sized to the same scale, with the 3-10kHz range highlighted. The Morel's waveguide means the directivity goes a lot more low and consistent.

Thanks so much for all you suggestions and insights. These are some interesting drivers to look at. The Morel and Faital are reasonably priced enough it might be worth picking some up just to experiment with.

Cheers. Hope you do + post the outcome. I'm still trying to find the perfect project for the Faital 12" drivers; I picked them up on a whim.
 

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Hi
let me ask you Hollowman. How does a speaker designer decide on what filters to use? then how do you verify the goals have been met?

I don't know about 'a speaker designer' in the abstract, beyond publicly available articles and such.

Personally, currently. I'm using a mic + REW + ears. I fiddle with different points and slopes to get a pleasing result.

Personally, previously, I designed by textbook, then refined by ear (I had an SPL meter, but found it useless / frustrating beyond just checking that my levels were roughly OK). It took several years of slow changes to dial in my main system (coaxial + dual 15"). That has a simple passive crossover: a mix of 1st and 2nd order slopes, plus some padding / shaping of the HF.

When I eventually got a mic + software, I found it was pretty good: I tweaked part of the HF crossover, and otherwise left it alone. So my ears & judgement seem to be 'golden' enough to get good results (defining good here as sounds nice to me, sounds nice to GF, measures flat) - it just takes me an extremely long time.

what are the goals anyway?

Which goals? Depends on the build. For my current build, a system that:

A) sounds big and clear and effortless
B) does vocals very well

this current build was triggered by the experience of hearing a very good, rather large, fairly high $ boutique system that nailed A brilliantly (better than my main system) but B not as well.

filters either in software, analog, or inside the speaker don't they all have to do the same job no matter what or how.

Yes and no. Common example: a boutique pair of low resistance, low frequency passive crossovers might cost hundreds of dollars in inductors, and take weeks to get right. Not everyone has the cash or patience to work through multiple iterations of such crossovers. With DSP, one can just try a few crossovers and in a relatively short while have found something that works.

Specific example: my test rig has a HF driver sitting in the mouth of the mid horn, 30cm forward of the mid driver, delayed digitally. I can fiddle with this delay without mucking up anything else. That would be complex or impossible (and well beyond my patience) to get right with passive components.

So technically, it could be done 'no matter how or what', but in reality, I'd just give up on designs like this if I was forced to use only analogue filters.

cascading filters is what speaker designers do. For example the raw speaker driver in a box has an acoustic response that can be modeled as a series of filters most likely not a text book one.

That seems feasible.
 
Well I also made 4 pair of speakers, they are all very good for the money, and yet, when I closely listened to expensive Adam monitors I think it will be very difficult to improve upon such deeply engineered speakers when working alone in a garage.
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I've heard very good things about the higher-end Adams, but I haven't found any place where I can listen to them. Plus, they look super cool. 😉
 
I have read that pro audio drivers sometimes don't sound as good at lower volumes; is that true?

Not in my (limited) experience. I'd not be surprised if some pro systems exhibit this, rather than the individual drivers - since they are voiced to sound good at high volumes, in large, highly damped environments (rooms full of human meat), whereas home systems are not.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletcher–Munson_curves

The Morel seems to have a pretty steep drop after about 15kHz with the on-axis response. I may be old enough not to notice that anyway.

I believe these (linked Altecs) were the most widely used studio monitors in their day. Your favourite music may have been mixed on them. The 604 had gads of roll off by 15kHz.

1971 MONITORS

Also, see Zaph's soapbox at the bottom of the page, that covers this exact topic:

Zaph|Audio

Finally: with DSP, it ain't no thing to add 5dB of HF boost.
 
Not in my (limited) experience. I'd not be surprised if some pro systems exhibit this, rather than the individual drivers - since they are voiced to sound good at high volumes, in large, highly damped environments (rooms full of human meat), whereas home systems are not.

Agreed !
In a home application PA drivers have to be used differently than in a PA application. The latter one must be efficient, loud and reasonably compact (it is used to earn money after all). Meaning that tunings are used, that often don't offer too much low bass but offer good efficiency and make the best use of Xmax. When listened to at loud volumes this lack of extension is compensated for by the equal loundness curves.
For home usage it is better to use boxes that are often larger than optimal (from the "as much noise per watt" as possible point-of-view) and tuned lower. This will give less efficiency in the sought-after "kick range" for PA use but it will give much better low-end extension. But it will rely on room gain and/or EQing in order to achieve a flat response. I guess the EQ part is often left out by the ones complaining about "good only when loud".

Regards

Charles
 
As for electronics, I've gone back and forth a few times, but I'm currently leaning toward a MiniDSP 4x10 with external amps (something like the Outlaw Audio 7125). I really appreciate the suggestions on a PC-based active crossover. However, that's a pretty big step from where my experience has been, and I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. One step at a time.

For what it's worth, I'm using JRiver Media Center for all my crossovers and sending everything through a MiniDSP U-DAC8 to my amplifiers. The initial crossover setup was pretty easy to do, along with using PEQ to smooth response. I'm now using convolution to implement linear phase (FIR) crossovers that were surprisingly easy to create with rePhase. The learning curve wasn't nearly as steep as I expected before I started reading up on it.

-Chris
 
thread in disguise Reminds me of another version of what we get so often round here 'so hey everyone I picked these neato "ultimate" drivers, so everyone can clearly see how clever I am. Now won't one of you guys please finish up the details (the crossover)'. or Heck everyone knows the design is 90% determined by selecting a few drivers. DO IT YOURSELF AUDIO sure thing bub> tell us what you done in the past to know these drivers are "ultimate"? yeah clearly this engineer is tipped off by the use of the oft repeated U word.

Being new around here, this kind of ugliness really turns me off to the site. I feel like saying much more than that but I'll just stop there.

You didn't even understand the sentence he wrote...
 
What is the weakness of barefoot and amphion?

I do not have enough experiences to talk about Amphion, but I have had MM27 for 5 years+. The weakness of MM27 is its brutal nature and not very enjoyable to "listen to" the music. MM27 sounds much puncher than the other mastering purpose "soft sounding" MTM such as Lipinski L-707 (I used own a pair for a short period). Barefoot's primary purpose is recording / mixing obviously.
 
Being new around here, this kind of ugliness really turns me off to the site. I feel like saying much more than that but I'll just stop there.

You didn't even understand the sentence he wrote...

Yes we only exist on this site to fill in all the crossover 'details' for all you wanna be speaker designers, completely in one thread. What was "the sentence" I was supposed to address since ive forgotten?
what are you here for, critic of the DIYA sites posts?
 
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MTM is nonsense. Excepting maybe unobtainium horbach keyle set ups...

In well acoustically controlled room, MTM can show its strength better. Historically, point source speakers has been more popular in professional field than home use, and this is one of the reason, I guess. Also, good professional engineers are usually extremely conscious of the phase accuracy. Their ability to hear subtle phase shift is surprising.

Well, I'm currently using linear phase Horbach Keele (type) crossover with MTM. 🙂 It was not too difficult implement it for 2 way. Should be much more difficult for 3 way and more.
 
Yes we only exist on this site to fill in all the crossover 'details' for all you wanna be speaker designers, completely in one thread. What was "the sentence" I was supposed to address since ive forgotten?
what are you here for, critic of the DIYA sites posts?

If you don't want to help people, don't help people. Acting like an jerk toward someone because they want to buy nice drivers just doesn't make sense.

I'm here to learn, which is exactly what I've been doing. But I'm also buying some nice ScanSpeak drivers to use in my project, so I have to assume that, to you, that means somehow I'm asking you all to do something for me.

There are a few people who have gone out of their way to help me learn. But nobody is filling in all the details related to any part of it for me.

I just don't get what you're so bitter about.

-Chris
 
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