I lived in Edmonton for 4 years when i went to university there (except 1st summer spent in the NWT), and the Big Smoke where MIT has montains in the background.
I have not looked back since emigrating from the flat-flands to the Island (Independent Repulic of Vancouver Island).
dave
I have not looked back since emigrating from the flat-flands to the Island (Independent Repulic of Vancouver Island).
dave
Looking at the Big Smoke from a North Vancouver restaurant a couple weeks ago.
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Hawthorne Audio Rainier MK III Signature Editions
Hi,
Can you give us a short write about your system, e.g. what drivers you use, the speakers topology, what sub woofer amp you are using etc.? Thanks
I left the freezing-icy rain-freezing Canadian cycle 15 years ago... and I'm not missing it one bit!
Replaced my skis, boots, suit, scarf, mitts, hood, with a surfboard and shorts... and loving it! 😉
I do miss the snow during Xmas time though...
Ossidian, very neat XO with good looking parts!
Do you have a mic? I'd love to see FR, Impulse and Step Response from your system. Looks killer!
Have you tried moving them a bit more away from the walls?
MIT, have you had a look at XSim? Its graphical interface makes it easy to see what you're doing.
Replaced my skis, boots, suit, scarf, mitts, hood, with a surfboard and shorts... and loving it! 😉
I do miss the snow during Xmas time though...
Ossidian, very neat XO with good looking parts!
Do you have a mic? I'd love to see FR, Impulse and Step Response from your system. Looks killer!
Have you tried moving them a bit more away from the walls?
MIT, have you had a look at XSim? Its graphical interface makes it easy to see what you're doing.
Muchas Gracias! It’s been a very long journey to get to this point.
This is a prototype not the final build. I have to work out a method of supporting
the tweeter and the upper mid that can survive an eight year old!
AE-18 + AE-10 mid (apollo) + TPL200H
Baltic Birch, Corian "flaps" . (by Overn Design, Norway)
Baltic Birch, Corian "flaps" . (by Overn Design, Norway)
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These are my early stages of messing around with dipoles...
These don't make sense and break the rules on paper.. full range 6 inch hard al cone driver, baffleless, I would imagine a very messy CSD plot...
however, because DSP is amazing I can get this speaker +-3db on axis from its xover point to 16khz. (not that this fixes resonance issues or anything..)
HOWEVER,
listening tests - my golly gosh! the most extraordinary, stunning clarity I have heard from anything -period. Not a trace of a muddy sound, sharp stereo imaging, very dynamic, super musical and a sound stage you get awed by when putting on a good recording. Very nonfatiguing - and I can see these rigid cones really pick up a lot of microdetails. I can hear some resonance issues in the mid-high treble range which would also show itself on a CSD plot.
For now just very temperamental - a very happy man with some cool stuff planned. 😎
Attached - my little system, distortion graph of this amazing drivers and the original , unequalised response.
These don't make sense and break the rules on paper.. full range 6 inch hard al cone driver, baffleless, I would imagine a very messy CSD plot...
however, because DSP is amazing I can get this speaker +-3db on axis from its xover point to 16khz. (not that this fixes resonance issues or anything..)
HOWEVER,
listening tests - my golly gosh! the most extraordinary, stunning clarity I have heard from anything -period. Not a trace of a muddy sound, sharp stereo imaging, very dynamic, super musical and a sound stage you get awed by when putting on a good recording. Very nonfatiguing - and I can see these rigid cones really pick up a lot of microdetails. I can hear some resonance issues in the mid-high treble range which would also show itself on a CSD plot.
For now just very temperamental - a very happy man with some cool stuff planned. 😎
Attached - my little system, distortion graph of this amazing drivers and the original , unequalised response.
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Last edited:
I e started this build from a set of 2way German made car speakers. Specs are 30hz to 20,000. I just made the stands to burn them in and see how they sound. Any ideas on what I can do to make them get the best sound out of them? I have not hooked them up yet and I do have a dsp unit I can hook up to them to mess with the response of them
Any way. Here’s some pics. Just be easy on my. First try at OB speakers and just wanted to use what I have laying around
They are on a stand that has them leaning back just a very small amount. Just enough to keep them standing up and not falling over. And I just used what ever wood I had laying around
Any way. Here’s some pics. Just be easy on my. First try at OB speakers and just wanted to use what I have laying around
They are on a stand that has them leaning back just a very small amount. Just enough to keep them standing up and not falling over. And I just used what ever wood I had laying around
I think you should make a build thread, if you want advice. This is just a thread for showing of finished speakers
*IMO* The best approach is this:Start with a full-range you love and could almost live with all by itself...
(don't "cheap-out" here)
Then, add woofer and tweeter.
Probably, you'll soon want more bottom end and top end.
The "full range" will really be a "wide-range", and used essentially as a mid.
Next, find a woofer and tweeter of similar sensitivity... (the closer the better!)
With this approach, you wind up with a "full/wide/mid" that yields most of the music...
Just adding augmentation at top and bottom...
Keeps crossovers/filters out of the "vocal range"... the range where most of the music is.
The woofer specs are:
BIG!
High(ish) Q
High sensivity is "helpful to the cause"..
No box to yeild deep base... that's what the big and high-q are for...
Sensitive because an "insensitive" woofer will struggle to produce the large excursion needed with no box, and which is inevitable with no box to offer resistance.
Think "lots o' watts"..
Hard to find hi-q woofers that are inefficient anyway.
Low FS is always nice....
Tweeter will likely need some sort of lens or wave guide...
(unless it's "built-in"... or on)..
I happen to prefer ribbons....
But others prefer other things..
The crossover will be the fun part....
😎