Today I tried to filter the OBSP under an angle of 60 degrees.
This sounds very good, I think crossovers are more fluid this way.
LynxTWO - miniDSP Opendrc DA8 - Hypex UCD
B&C 18SW115 - 10 - 120hz
Seas Excel W22 - 120 - 1000hz
Scanspeak 10F - 1000 - 2500hz
Mundorf 17D2.2 - 2500hz +
most drivers hang are hanging with fishing line in the baffle
Very dynamic sound, relaxed and impulsive, deap low sounds sound dry
This sounds very good, I think crossovers are more fluid this way.
LynxTWO - miniDSP Opendrc DA8 - Hypex UCD
B&C 18SW115 - 10 - 120hz
Seas Excel W22 - 120 - 1000hz
Scanspeak 10F - 1000 - 2500hz
Mundorf 17D2.2 - 2500hz +
most drivers hang are hanging with fishing line in the baffle
Very dynamic sound, relaxed and impulsive, deap low sounds sound dry
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QLOB
Quarantine Lockdown Open Baffles
I decided to use only things I had hanging around at home for my latest build. I was rather strict about it using only wood, drivers, poly batting, wire, fasteners, and even passive components that I had at home. No going out and buying or ordering ANYTHING. I ended up with these 3 way OBs.
The lower driver is an unknown Eminence 12" woofer that looks like a prototype to me. It had TS parameters hand written on an Eminence sticker on the magnet. I got these in a swap some years ago and they sat in a box in my garage for years. The upper driver is a 12" pro-sound coaxial. It looks like a B&C driver from the basket and CD, but there are no markings. Also a swap acquisition from a couple of years back.
The drivers are mounted to a 13" wide glossy white finished panel that came from the Ikea bargain bin some years ago (I bought 10 of these 48" x 13" panels for $2.50 each back then - these are the last 2 left). The lower cabinet is made of some 3/4" Oak plywood left over from a kitchen cabinet repair.
I had a bunch of 10µF poly caps purchased on special some years back. This project used up the last 6.
Please note the audiophile approved wire nuts used rather than binding posts which I had none of laying around. Don't laugh. They work just fine (other than being ugly as hell). I would be less inclined to do this with kids or pets at home, but it's all adults here so no problem.
The poly stuffing the woofer is a bit of an experiment to see if it improves the bass (and reduces the 420Hz resonance) of the 8" deep box. Seems OK for now, but more listening is needed. The batting is just rolled up and stuffed inside.
Crossover is handled by a MiniDSP 4x10 and amplification comes from a Savant 8125 (8 channels of 125W per channel of class D). These are the same as the Lexicon DD8 or Crown CT8150 and quite a deal on the used market. The woofers operate from 50 - 300Hz, mids 300 - 1.4kHz, and tweeters above 1.4kHz. There are 3 subwoofers sprinkled around the room that handle sub 50Hz duty. There is plenty of PEQ. Some of this is due to the drivers and OB operation. Some is due to the room. Response is roughly ±2db from 30 to 19kHz before I add my prefered house curve (which tilts downward about 1db/octave until 9kHz where it flattens out).
Verdict? It's pretty nice. Lots of slam, but no bloat. Brass is very nice (Harry James direct to disc is awesome, and even James Brown at the Apollo sounds surprisingly lifelike). I've heard better highs (cymbals particularly) and imaging is not fantastic. But I'll keep these around for a while.
I have more drivers and wood around. So maybe another project for later in May or June. Either way, I'm still not buying anything! (good thing I have a big bag of wire nuts around ;-)
Quarantine Lockdown Open Baffles
I decided to use only things I had hanging around at home for my latest build. I was rather strict about it using only wood, drivers, poly batting, wire, fasteners, and even passive components that I had at home. No going out and buying or ordering ANYTHING. I ended up with these 3 way OBs.
The lower driver is an unknown Eminence 12" woofer that looks like a prototype to me. It had TS parameters hand written on an Eminence sticker on the magnet. I got these in a swap some years ago and they sat in a box in my garage for years. The upper driver is a 12" pro-sound coaxial. It looks like a B&C driver from the basket and CD, but there are no markings. Also a swap acquisition from a couple of years back.
The drivers are mounted to a 13" wide glossy white finished panel that came from the Ikea bargain bin some years ago (I bought 10 of these 48" x 13" panels for $2.50 each back then - these are the last 2 left). The lower cabinet is made of some 3/4" Oak plywood left over from a kitchen cabinet repair.
I had a bunch of 10µF poly caps purchased on special some years back. This project used up the last 6.
Please note the audiophile approved wire nuts used rather than binding posts which I had none of laying around. Don't laugh. They work just fine (other than being ugly as hell). I would be less inclined to do this with kids or pets at home, but it's all adults here so no problem.
The poly stuffing the woofer is a bit of an experiment to see if it improves the bass (and reduces the 420Hz resonance) of the 8" deep box. Seems OK for now, but more listening is needed. The batting is just rolled up and stuffed inside.
Crossover is handled by a MiniDSP 4x10 and amplification comes from a Savant 8125 (8 channels of 125W per channel of class D). These are the same as the Lexicon DD8 or Crown CT8150 and quite a deal on the used market. The woofers operate from 50 - 300Hz, mids 300 - 1.4kHz, and tweeters above 1.4kHz. There are 3 subwoofers sprinkled around the room that handle sub 50Hz duty. There is plenty of PEQ. Some of this is due to the drivers and OB operation. Some is due to the room. Response is roughly ±2db from 30 to 19kHz before I add my prefered house curve (which tilts downward about 1db/octave until 9kHz where it flattens out).
Verdict? It's pretty nice. Lots of slam, but no bloat. Brass is very nice (Harry James direct to disc is awesome, and even James Brown at the Apollo sounds surprisingly lifelike). I've heard better highs (cymbals particularly) and imaging is not fantastic. But I'll keep these around for a while.
I have more drivers and wood around. So maybe another project for later in May or June. Either way, I'm still not buying anything! (good thing I have a big bag of wire nuts around ;-)
Attachments
Stoomeister - No doubt true, but the room isn't that big (~4 x 5m) and it is used by my wife for yoga almost daily. So bringing the speakers another meter into the room is impractical. (at least if I want to continue to be fed ;-)
I'm going to try some sound absorption panels behind the speakers and see if that helps.
I'm going to try some sound absorption panels behind the speakers and see if that helps.
mlee, nice! 
what about SB65WBAC25-4 line arrays? Have you replaced them with these? Do you like these better or are they just different?
What are your crossover points?
IMO 2515's are too slow for planars. I like them up to ~350hz, but prefer 100-150hz upper crossover point. Aren't you planning to add one more band between 2515 and NEO8-PDR? Maybe some fast 8 inch drivers?
I am planning to use PTMini-6 in my next build. How do you like them? I have seen some bad distortions measuraments, but in line arrays crossed high enough that shouldn't be a problem.
How did you wire NEO8's? 5 parallel pairs in series for 10ohm total?
what about SB65WBAC25-4 line arrays? Have you replaced them with these? Do you like these better or are they just different?
What are your crossover points?
IMO 2515's are too slow for planars. I like them up to ~350hz, but prefer 100-150hz upper crossover point. Aren't you planning to add one more band between 2515 and NEO8-PDR? Maybe some fast 8 inch drivers?
I am planning to use PTMini-6 in my next build. How do you like them? I have seen some bad distortions measuraments, but in line arrays crossed high enough that shouldn't be a problem.
How did you wire NEO8's? 5 parallel pairs in series for 10ohm total?
Hi Darkheart
Thanks!! In truth the sb line sound founds fine but of course being small fullrange drivers they can only do so much. They need bass enforcement and visually combined with other options the complete build didn't look great also for some reason I was always fiddling with the treble levels all the time.
Tested the sb line with the ptmini. That fixed the treble so I decided to go large obs. Glad I did, these replaced the sb line.
Xover are 350hz and 8khz right now. I don't listen loud so that is good enough. The ptmini line is good down to around 5khz. Going lower is very tough on them but I like them in the very high registers. The 2515 sound great to me. Best bass I've had in my room bar none. I was originally going an line of 10" but didn't like any of the ones I tried so stuck with what I thought I would enjoy. The 2515 tick a lot of boxes and they are less than 8lbs a piece so the panel is a reasonable weight.
The neos are wired as you say right now but I have room for 12 a side instead of 10. That will change wiring and gain a bit of efficiency back.
Difference between the sb line and these is large. Everywhere the sb fell short these do in spades. Bass is really unbelievable something you have to hear. Spl scales nicely. Even played loud they sound like they are on cruze control. No strain and clean sounding. Really glad I did this build.
Thanks!! In truth the sb line sound founds fine but of course being small fullrange drivers they can only do so much. They need bass enforcement and visually combined with other options the complete build didn't look great also for some reason I was always fiddling with the treble levels all the time.
Tested the sb line with the ptmini. That fixed the treble so I decided to go large obs. Glad I did, these replaced the sb line.
Xover are 350hz and 8khz right now. I don't listen loud so that is good enough. The ptmini line is good down to around 5khz. Going lower is very tough on them but I like them in the very high registers. The 2515 sound great to me. Best bass I've had in my room bar none. I was originally going an line of 10" but didn't like any of the ones I tried so stuck with what I thought I would enjoy. The 2515 tick a lot of boxes and they are less than 8lbs a piece so the panel is a reasonable weight.
The neos are wired as you say right now but I have room for 12 a side instead of 10. That will change wiring and gain a bit of efficiency back.
Difference between the sb line and these is large. Everywhere the sb fell short these do in spades. Bass is really unbelievable something you have to hear. Spl scales nicely. Even played loud they sound like they are on cruze control. No strain and clean sounding. Really glad I did this build.
Build an elegant frame on wheels and hang the coaxial from this frame nude. This way the frame could be moved further into the room during a listening session. Place the woofers separately on the sidewall ala Linkwitz. Crossover 200-250hz. Getting fed is overrated.
Intermittent fasting to a better sound-system!
..plus, you can get leaner, improve your health, and prolong your life.
Zmyrna, ScottG, et al - I appreciate the feedback (both honest and in jest), but this build was not intended to be an ultimate anything. It was built on a lark for a bit of fun during lockdown. Again, using only stuff I had kicking around the house (who would use wire nuts instead of binding posts for crying out loud).
That it's enjoyable to listen to at all is rather surprising to me given how little actual planning went into it.
That it's enjoyable to listen to at all is rather surprising to me given how little actual planning went into it.
I like these LA very much - congratulations! I would like to build something similar, but unfortunately do not have the space for it...
enjoy!
erik
Return of the old
A nos Scanspeak 10" woofer, an old Miller Kreisel
5 1/4" by Peerless midwoofer, and a phenolic ring radiator, which I think I paid $2.66 for. But I like how it sounds, anyways.
These won't need to make sound below about 150 hertz, where they'll hand off to a bass panel I already have.
Just a fun easy project for Victoria Day weekend. I plan to biamp these passively, with a larger amp with volume pots on the 10", then actively crossover to the dual 15" panel .
The green is just basecoat I have laying around, but I don't mind it for now.
A nos Scanspeak 10" woofer, an old Miller Kreisel
5 1/4" by Peerless midwoofer, and a phenolic ring radiator, which I think I paid $2.66 for. But I like how it sounds, anyways.
These won't need to make sound below about 150 hertz, where they'll hand off to a bass panel I already have.
Just a fun easy project for Victoria Day weekend. I plan to biamp these passively, with a larger amp with volume pots on the 10", then actively crossover to the dual 15" panel .
The green is just basecoat I have laying around, but I don't mind it for now.
Attachments
There's nothing "ultimate" about these. It was just a fun project last week using a couple of 6 bottle hinged wine display carrying cases. I removed the hinges turned the panels inside out, glued them together and cut the hole. Pretty simple project that yielded a nice outcome.
Oh, and I installed SEAS FA22RCZ full range speakers crossed over at 100 Hz to 15" woofers plus a helper tweeter on top facing the rear.For some reason it sounds better that way.
Oh, and I installed SEAS FA22RCZ full range speakers crossed over at 100 Hz to 15" woofers plus a helper tweeter on top facing the rear.For some reason it sounds better that way.
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Satori / Faital pro passive OB
Hi everybody
This is my very first open baffle build. Bass is a Faital Pro 400 15" woofer, Mids are the satori MW16 8ohm and the tweeter is the tw29 ring radiator with 8ohm. On the back I installed a cheap Dayton 8 ohm tweeter with a simple crossover and less level than the main tweeter. That sounds a bit better to me than no back tweeter.
The build is fully passive, the crossover frequencies are 300Hz bass/mid and 1900HZ Mid/Tweet.
300Hz is where the MW16 dipole cancellation and the Fatal Pro dipole peak meet. So a simple 12 dB electrical filter gives me around 18Db acoustic roll off on both speakers there. The speakers hand over very nicely The MW16 and the TW29 are crossed with soft 12dB LR filters.
They sound great, best bass I ever heard in my apartment, slim and defined but still deep. These woofers have usable output down to 40HZ which is plenty low for me (and my neighbours). Midrange as well as treble is fantastic, too, as can be expected with those drivers.
The dipole behaviour is compromised at the respective dipole peaks of 200Hz and around 1000Hz, but I guess with a passive crossover and only three ways that cannot be avoided. And I guess a tweeter with a waveguide would have helped with constant directivity in the treble range, but well, next time. For now these speakers sound great in my room.
My first attempt with that speaker was with just the woofers and the MW16 used as a full range speaker, but I gave that up, because of the small sweet spot, and even in that sweet spot, something felt wrong, the sound was bright and muffled at the same time, even though imaging was great. I guess that happens because of the missing room reflections in the higher midrange and treble.
The measurements where taken in the room with a distance of around one and a half meters, no windowing. I have no chance to do outdoor measurement unfortunately.
Hi everybody
This is my very first open baffle build. Bass is a Faital Pro 400 15" woofer, Mids are the satori MW16 8ohm and the tweeter is the tw29 ring radiator with 8ohm. On the back I installed a cheap Dayton 8 ohm tweeter with a simple crossover and less level than the main tweeter. That sounds a bit better to me than no back tweeter.
The build is fully passive, the crossover frequencies are 300Hz bass/mid and 1900HZ Mid/Tweet.
300Hz is where the MW16 dipole cancellation and the Fatal Pro dipole peak meet. So a simple 12 dB electrical filter gives me around 18Db acoustic roll off on both speakers there. The speakers hand over very nicely The MW16 and the TW29 are crossed with soft 12dB LR filters.
They sound great, best bass I ever heard in my apartment, slim and defined but still deep. These woofers have usable output down to 40HZ which is plenty low for me (and my neighbours
). Midrange as well as treble is fantastic, too, as can be expected with those drivers. The dipole behaviour is compromised at the respective dipole peaks of 200Hz and around 1000Hz, but I guess with a passive crossover and only three ways that cannot be avoided. And I guess a tweeter with a waveguide would have helped with constant directivity in the treble range, but well, next time
. For now these speakers sound great in my room.My first attempt with that speaker was with just the woofers and the MW16 used as a full range speaker, but I gave that up, because of the small sweet spot, and even in that sweet spot, something felt wrong, the sound was bright and muffled at the same time, even though imaging was great. I guess that happens because of the missing room reflections in the higher midrange and treble.
The measurements where taken in the room with a distance of around one and a half meters, no windowing. I have no chance to do outdoor measurement unfortunately.
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The satori is very fine, but I have no comparison since I did not try any other midrange speaker.