Exactly, once the "MASSIVE" undertaking of the new MCU board is done, modifying further such that the MUSES becomes the front-end of the RTP3D shouldn't be too difficult. Ofc, this is an isolated project and not to be mixed with the UGS MUSES Scion.
I am locked on doing the toroidal nanocrystaline, fully balanced btw. You can look at https://qwertyl1.wixsite.com/diyaudio/iron-pre .. which is actually my inspiration, but without a JFet stage... just passive. But I will not say no to free transformers 😉
1. Your welcome.
2. Isn't the Babelfish XA252 a mix between the GamuT and XA25 - what is the core difference with yours ?
-Gamut is quasi complementary, both XA25 and Babelfish XA252 are complementary OS
-Gamut is no Class A, while these are
-Gamut heavily based on use of OP, while these not
-Gamut having dubious trick of decreasing gain (35db, then -6 and -12db) simply choking/attenuating the signal; far from my idea of preserving signal energy
one of most prominent details of XA25 (thus XA252 too) is Square law OS transfer characteristic; Gamut is not having that, sources of pucks being degenerated
so, as usual ....... everything is the same but not similar at all .....
1) That is true, it is using N-chn OP only, but is this better .. isn't using two very identical FET's better than N/P ... or perhaps the question is more oriented around how the FET treat the electric polarity of the sinewave ???-Gamut is quasi complementary, both XA25 and Babelfish XA252 are complementary OS
-Gamut is no Class A, while these are
-Gamut heavily based on use of OP, while these not
-Gamut having dubious trick of decreasing gain (35db, then -6 and -12db) simply choking/attenuating the signal; far from my idea of preserving signal energy
one of most prominent details of XA25 (thus XA252 too) is Square law OS transfer characteristic; Gamut is not having that, sources of pucks being degenerated
so, as usual ....... everything is the same but not similar at all .....
2) The GamuT is Class A in the first 20 watts and class AB after.
3) What is OP ?
4) Yes true on gain.
5) You mean the XA252 have linear output characteristic while GamuT is not ?
6) Is either of your XA252 differential / Balanced output ?
this really not place/thread to go in detail about amp differences
even if some of your questions are important/relevant, you need to learn that amplifier/gadget itself is rather conglomerate of details working as a whole, not mish and mash of separate principles
so, whichever path designer chose, final result must be fulfillment of starting goals and premises
basic premise of Nelson's (and majority of mine) projects is desired transfer characteristic ...... not number of zeros in THD figure (even if XA25 is having plenty of those)
so, as used to say - invest some elbow grease in principal side of amp functionality, and you'll be able to spot differences in approach
or, if you're not interested, proceed playing with shiny Legos, hoping that you'll stumble on Graal using that approach; I'm not anymore interested to make one best ever for my own use (that's practically too easy), I'm interested in thinking about new ones, living happily ever after
anyhow, for your amusement:
1. mu
2. I'm glad for them
3. chip
4.so bummer
5. not saying that; think about meaning of "linear"
6. easy to see from published schematics, confirmed/explained later in thread
even if some of your questions are important/relevant, you need to learn that amplifier/gadget itself is rather conglomerate of details working as a whole, not mish and mash of separate principles
so, whichever path designer chose, final result must be fulfillment of starting goals and premises
basic premise of Nelson's (and majority of mine) projects is desired transfer characteristic ...... not number of zeros in THD figure (even if XA25 is having plenty of those)
so, as used to say - invest some elbow grease in principal side of amp functionality, and you'll be able to spot differences in approach
or, if you're not interested, proceed playing with shiny Legos, hoping that you'll stumble on Graal using that approach; I'm not anymore interested to make one best ever for my own use (that's practically too easy), I'm interested in thinking about new ones, living happily ever after
anyhow, for your amusement:
1. mu
2. I'm glad for them
3. chip
4.so bummer
5. not saying that; think about meaning of "linear"
6. easy to see from published schematics, confirmed/explained later in thread
True, this is not the thread, but thanks for answering some of the questions. I will spend some time over on your threads 🙂
One last comment. One of the reasons I asked for differential/balanced (on the output) was that this is the last resort to improve transient performance, if all else is equal. Instead of just one leg containing the full sinewave (positive terminal), you instead allow for both polarity's to be active or engaged with the loudspeaker, so two legs share the work on the speaker cone. That is why I was looking at doing a Circlotron amplifier or start with Yamaha M-5000 and go from there.
Anyway... enough of that, see you on the other side 🙂
One last comment. One of the reasons I asked for differential/balanced (on the output) was that this is the last resort to improve transient performance, if all else is equal. Instead of just one leg containing the full sinewave (positive terminal), you instead allow for both polarity's to be active or engaged with the loudspeaker, so two legs share the work on the speaker cone. That is why I was looking at doing a Circlotron amplifier or start with Yamaha M-5000 and go from there.
Anyway... enough of that, see you on the other side 🙂
proper answer for that sort of thinking - premise out of exact context, what a load of Bulldrek
more polite answer to that sort of thinking - premise out of exact context is - if you're happy dealing with stack of interesting premises, none of them actually transposed to exact project, firmly contained in comparative frame with some other project ........ just proceed
as I noted several times, whenever I'm short in understanding something ( understanding confirmed with actual physical tests) I'm more than happy to invent some new, or dust some old Myth and sell it to first Innocent Bystander
No worries, nothing is written in stone ... well, some stuff are, but, I will pop up in the Babelfish thread when I have learned what I am dealing with - the differences between the GamuT and the Babelfish.
OBS: Made a slight change to post #1 and description of the project which should reflect some of the minor changes taking place.
Have a great day.
Have a great day.
Good morning everyone. Got an update for you all.
Lets see if double row have the same feeling when I have one in my hands.
I wanted to ask something in past but I forgot.
Do you want to use also a remote with this preamp?
Also to mention that de display you want to use is not a direct replacement with the ones(vfd or oled) used in the ugs muse so you will need to write your code from scratch. I wrote a few messages to Alex but never got a reply.
Do you want to use also a remote with this preamp?
Also to mention that de display you want to use is not a direct replacement with the ones(vfd or oled) used in the ugs muse so you will need to write your code from scratch. I wrote a few messages to Alex but never got a reply.
Yes, the preamp will have a remote. In secret, I have been considering making the remote in the same style as the volume wheel ... The ultimate fidget toy ... 😆. Might be a bit much, but will see. Might happen, might not. But doesn't need to be part of the original program. Lyngdorf offer something similar for their Steinway series of products: https://steinwaylyngdorf.com/steinway-sons-remote-control/
Yes, I need to produce a controller card from scratch. It will be based on ATMEGA and Arduino. Even if I can't write a single row of code atm, I will learn... unless I get a programmer to join the adventure.
Yes, I need to produce a controller card from scratch. It will be based on ATMEGA and Arduino. Even if I can't write a single row of code atm, I will learn... unless I get a programmer to join the adventure.
Very nice remote, I think it’s easier to integrate that one in the system than designing e new one.
Hiring a programmer for the preamp project will need easily 2-3000€
Hiring a programmer for the preamp project will need easily 2-3000€
I'd be surprised if there are no existing solutions that could be interfaced to the big volume "wheel". The MUSES kits out there use rotary pulse encoders, which should be relatively easy to mechanically mate with the "wheel" . No programming needed at all.
Similar solution was presented here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/gb-query-interest-for-remotedial.349170/post-6957428
I don't remember if I posted this pic, but this one shows general principle I will follow, with some changes and adaptations ofc. As an example, the display PCB have to be mounted from the front, so the glass cover will house some magnets for easy access and hidden screws. Stuff like that. I have not worked on this for a while and the LED display is completely different, so will need a new controller. I have a folder with hardware and software ideas for it, which I will go over again and check what I have picked up or learned since last time.
I will use a pulse encoder similar to a rotary. I am starting on or with this and will adapt for the Arduino platform. I think it is better to work with something fresh than having to work with someone else's code. http://www.labbookpages.co.uk/circuits/wheelEncoder.html
When it comes to the displays, I have something for that as well, the Micro Dot pHAT by Pimoroni - driver and Arduino library. The rest are simple toggle switches and some stand alone LED's like standby and lock. Lock is to prevent the wheel from increasing/decreasing the volume by accident.
Don't worry, I will shout if I run into serious issues, but thanks for the interest and ideas... appreciated 🙂
Regarding the remote, I think I will look at the Apple remote protocol or something other well established. A simple remote will be part of the first run. A "wheel remote" will come later and is more or less identical to the volume wheel + a section containing the MCU, transmitter, psu and battery... But I want to deal with that as a separate subject
I will use a pulse encoder similar to a rotary. I am starting on or with this and will adapt for the Arduino platform. I think it is better to work with something fresh than having to work with someone else's code. http://www.labbookpages.co.uk/circuits/wheelEncoder.html
When it comes to the displays, I have something for that as well, the Micro Dot pHAT by Pimoroni - driver and Arduino library. The rest are simple toggle switches and some stand alone LED's like standby and lock. Lock is to prevent the wheel from increasing/decreasing the volume by accident.
Don't worry, I will shout if I run into serious issues, but thanks for the interest and ideas... appreciated 🙂
Regarding the remote, I think I will look at the Apple remote protocol or something other well established. A simple remote will be part of the first run. A "wheel remote" will come later and is more or less identical to the volume wheel + a section containing the MCU, transmitter, psu and battery... But I want to deal with that as a separate subject
Attachments
Meldano’s idea is very nice but doesn’t offer many extra buttons, I was thinking to try an apple siri remote gen 2 with the ugs muse preamp but I’m not sure if the later will recognize the remote ir code.
The question isn't what but how. I'm thinking bluetooth, which opens up the market for "which remote", plus, should be relatively simple to integrate with Arduino. There's a lot of different off-the-shelf types and all we need is.
Power on/off.
Volume up/down
Source select.
I don't know the exact protocol or operation of the Apple remote, but no matter, better to start fresh and have control
Power on/off.
Volume up/down
Source select.
I don't know the exact protocol or operation of the Apple remote, but no matter, better to start fresh and have control
Last edited:
The UGS Muse will recognize the Apple Remote IR codes which are NEC by the way.
You just need to select the NEC mode in the configuration software.