I think I used different smd ldos than the ones in the schematic.
In the schematic you have linear voltage regulators and we were talking about using low voltage drop regulators.
I remember that I used psu designer first of ordering my mains transformer and the final result was like expected.
In the schematic you have linear voltage regulators and we were talking about using low voltage drop regulators.
I remember that I used psu designer first of ordering my mains transformer and the final result was like expected.
I didn't see a response to this. Searching the threads on the French site didn't reveal alot. Nothing really on the original (non-Muse) thread. Alex posted in the UGS thread: It is not mandatory to change the caps if they are already mounted. It won't make a difference. And the 100uF are much more pricey. And in a previous post: Both are fine. 100uF will limit a bit more any overshoot.
At this point I'm leaning towards going with the 100nf since I have these on hand. I didn't even realize they made 100uf ceramics. I know Ine said he used the 100uf in that forum.
Chris, I went with 100nF as well.
In an old message EricD mentioned he is using the same 100nF.
OK, a couple of stupid questions:
Thanks!
- What is the Bypass for?
- What are the triggers supposed to be used for? Other audio equipment that supports them?
- Why 2 outputs? Biamping? Wouldn't a Y cable handle that just as well?
Thanks!
@schultzsch What diode did you wind up using in yours? The pads for these are tiny. Looking at perhaps a Nexperia PMEG2020 variant or a Diodes Inc. SMD2U20?
Trying to finalize transformer specs, and whether to go 2x6Vac or 2x8Vac. Is there any disadvantage to using LDOs on the Logic Supply card? I know these are limited to 500mA. This is enough for the relays, etc.? If I got the 2x8Vac, and then decided to use LDOs, is heat going to be an issue?
If using the standard TO220 regs on the Logic Supply card, it mentions heatsinking. I haven't seen any pics in either this thread or the homecinema thread showing what users did for this.
Thanks for any advice. I haven't run this on PSU designer.
If using the standard TO220 regs on the Logic Supply card, it mentions heatsinking. I haven't seen any pics in either this thread or the homecinema thread showing what users did for this.
Thanks for any advice. I haven't run this on PSU designer.
@Pars, I have personally gone with Tamura 2x24V and Tamura 2x8V.
You sink the TO220 to the bottom plate (isolated). I have found this image (by @Algar_emi).
You sink the TO220 to the bottom plate (isolated). I have found this image (by @Algar_emi).
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Thanks for that pic, very helpful. Was that pic from here (diya) or homecinema.fr? It seems that I've read both threads twice (translated from French), as well as some of the UGS AI thread. Hard to wrap your head around how all of this goes together 
I'm going to be ordering parts to complete the preamp cards, Eric D.'s PSU boards, and 4 shunt PSUs this weekend. Quite a PITA these days with parts availability, but fortunately I have the majority of the really hard to get stuff already. Now if I could just find 15mm U channel in the US for the UGS heatsinks. I can find 15mm square tubing, but not sure how well that would work (without shorting something).
I'm going to be ordering parts to complete the preamp cards, Eric D.'s PSU boards, and 4 shunt PSUs this weekend. Quite a PITA these days with parts availability, but fortunately I have the majority of the really hard to get stuff already. Now if I could just find 15mm U channel in the US for the UGS heatsinks. I can find 15mm square tubing, but not sure how well that would work (without shorting something).
Don't remember where I grabbed that pic, it was long time ago not now, might have been from the french site.
I have locally available 15x15x15x2 mm U-profile raw aluminium (15x2mm flat bars as well) and will need to make mine.
It is not 1.5mm like on the plans posted by Ine earlier, but might do the job. Need to take an exact look at the fit. Better for the taps.
I have locally available 15x15x15x2 mm U-profile raw aluminium (15x2mm flat bars as well) and will need to make mine.
It is not 1.5mm like on the plans posted by Ine earlier, but might do the job. Need to take an exact look at the fit. Better for the taps.
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Hope someone can help me... I am slowly collecting parts for this project and I am building UGS Muse main power supply V2 and need advice on rectifiers that are out of stock for some time now... Can MBRS4201T3G be replaced as suggested on octopart web page under alternatives with MURS320-E3/57T. Or would there be any better alternatives?
Thanks
Thanks
As I proceed on the build of these two preamps, some questions:
- Do most people use the XP30 input filter? I presume this is for DACs (delta sigma) with some HF outliers? I'm thinking that I will go ahead and use this for mine, I'll have to ask the other guy if he wants that or not.
- There appear to be a few resistors right in the signal path that were spec'd as thick films. I much prefer thin film in the signal path, and would have considered doing the whole thing in thin film (preamp boards), but that gets a bit pricey. R48/R49 100R and if I don't use the XP30 input filter, R17/R18 IIRC 0R. There may be more, and of course that depends upon your definition of "in the signal path".
- Since I want a monitor or tape out like my Aleph P has, for mine, I'm going to use Output 1 for that, and leave the relays for both Output 1 and 2 out. I'll wire Output 1 to the Bypass relay input, and will hardwire (jumper the relay) the connection for Output 2, since the Sub board runs off of it. I'll redo a rear panel with adjusted labeling of course.
- Earth: I noticed Eric D's wiring diagram of connecting Earth to the Preamp boards. I've never seen Earth wired on boards such as this, with no AC on them. It also seems from looking at the schematics, that unless JP3 is in and closed, Earth isn't really doing anything? If it is that important, probably should have put an extra pin on the shunt boards and run it across so you didn't have to split wiring.
After looking at the preamp board schematic some more, it appears that for 3 above (Monitor or Tape), i could populate the relays and simply configure one of the outputs for this using the Bypass relay. I would not be using both the headphone amp and the power amp/speakers simultaneously, so if the software supports it, I could enable Bypass and whichever output I had connected to the headphone amp for headphone listening, or disable Bypass and enable the other output for speaker listening. I'll have to check with @Alex_twn to see if this is supported, or go thru the controller menus myself to check. If not, I can always go back to how I had planned on doing this in 3 above.
So, proposed operation being:
So, proposed operation being:
- Headphone listening: Bypass relay engaged, Output 1 enabled, Output 2 off
- Speaker listening: Bypass relay off, Output 1 off, Output 2 enabled.
Yes, bypass does exactly this, bypasses the amp/volume pot and sends the selected input straight to the output, so that a connected home theater processor with its own volume pot can be used (as input) and its output send straight (bypassed UGS) to the main L/R power amps. At least this is how this option was designed, and implemented in the original Pass preamps as well. It is an add-on feature and not meant to replace a tape loop.
In your case, you can connect to the preamps first output (A) your power amp and to the second output (B) your headphone amp.
If you ommit a volume pot in your headamp, there is no need for a bypass. Just select an input, fire up the respective amp and use the UGS volume for volume control. Saves you a volume pot in the headamp and maybe a preamp section (and input switching) as well.
In all my amps I have a loop-out which just loops out straight the selected input (like a tape loop but without the in), but unfortunately nothing like this is available in the UGS Muse preamp and I miss this functionality, same as you. Helps daisy chaining amps and comparing them with the same input without Y-splitters, connecting multiple headphone amps, etc.
In your case, you can connect to the preamps first output (A) your power amp and to the second output (B) your headphone amp.
If you ommit a volume pot in your headamp, there is no need for a bypass. Just select an input, fire up the respective amp and use the UGS volume for volume control. Saves you a volume pot in the headamp
and maybe a preamp section (and input switching) as well.In all my amps I have a loop-out which just loops out straight the selected input (like a tape loop but without the in), but unfortunately nothing like this is available in the UGS Muse preamp and I miss this functionality, same as you. Helps daisy chaining amps and comparing them with the same input without Y-splitters, connecting multiple headphone amps, etc.
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