UGS-muse preamp GB

[schultzsch]

I just noticed a strange thing, the bypass diodes(D5,D6,D7) that are across the ldos are rated at 10V. If you use 24V power supplies D6 and D7 are ok with 8v across them but not D5 which has 16.7V(24-4(voltage drop across R21)-3.3) on it.
So with the standard 24V supplies D5 needs to be replaced, I use 28V power supplies so I need to replace all of them.
The actual ones are rated at 3A. As you increase the forward current the leakage current increases too so what is a minimum value that can be used for the forward current to protect the ldos?

 

[schultzsch]

All these years that I waited to build this I hoped that maybe if I wait enough the panels will draw themselves as I want them to be but unfortunately for me that didn’t happen. In the end it wasn’t so difficult as it seemed years ago.

 

[starcat]

All these years that I waited to build this I hoped that maybe if I wait enough the panels will draw themselves as I want them to be but unfortunately for me that didn’t happen. In the end it wasn’t so difficult as it seemed years ago.

Not going for dual encoders? Would make the panel simpler and the buttons obsolete. Just an idea.

 

[Ine]

What's wrong using buttons ? I'd say, go for it !
Here is mine, with buttons.

 

[schultzsch]

It will look better indeed but removing the buttons will remove some of the shortcuts the input buttons provide that I use and find convenient.

I will try to draw it to see how it looks.

 

[starcat]

What's wrong using buttons ? I'd say, go for it !

Nothing make only the faceplate more complicated.
I will go with both dual encoders because of the symmetry and also with buttons because of the direct input select and shortcuts.

gionag did both and the panel is looking very nice.

 

[schultzsch]

I have started with the idea to have both encoders and no push buttons but after I started to use the preamp I decided that I will go with only one encoder and the push buttons.
@Alex_twn there is one thing that I noticed and I am not sure if it’s ok or not. If I change the input type on the fly from the front panel and after I restart the preamp, after the restart the input goes to the same state it is saved in the settings and not what was previously selected from the front input buttons. Is this behavior normal?

 

[schultzsch]

@Ine what thpe of filter are you using in front of the display?

 

[Ine]

Smoked from Modushop

 

[schultzsch]

Thanks @Ine.

I have 2 buttons (50mm each, cnc machined bought from aliexpress years ago) that I wanted to use and for these the faceplate would look like below.

 

[schultzsch]

Here you can easily compare the differences and which one you like most. After drawing all 3 versions I am quite undecided why way to go.

 

[fencki]

the middle one with 2 knobs and push buttons

 

[schultzsch]

@Ine sorry for disturbing again.

What ir receiver did you used? is it the same from the bom or something different?

 

[Ine]

Same from BOM

 

[schultzsch]

Did you used a pcb to fix it on the front panel?
What side of the receiver have you exposed to receive the ir signals? A or B?

 

[Ine]

No, I did not use a pcb. Glued the IR to the frontpanel. Used thee single wires to connect it to pcb.
Side B to receive the IR signals.

 

[schultzsch]

Got it now. Thank you very much for the info.

 

[schultzsch]

Hello @Ine, disturbing again…

Talking with Gianluca these days about the front plate he said that the recession(where the push buttons are) on yours is 3mm deep even if the drawing says 4.5mm.
Can you confirm if you have 3mm or 4.5mm?

Thanks.

 

[Ine]

Hello @Ine, disturbing again…

Talking with Gianluca these days about the front plate he said that the recession(where the push buttons are) on yours is 3mm deep even if the drawing says 4.5mm.
Can you confirm if you have 3mm or 4.5mm?

Thanks.

can you please explain for me with a drawing ?

 

[schultzsch]

Ups I forgot to attach the screenshot