Daveis said:
A drill bit will be fine to use, though you may want to deburr the holes with a round file... I like the stepped drill bits (available at Loews etc.) as they have a bevel finish at each step up in size. Just be careful not to drill through to the next size hole...
For the stand offs, if you're free handing it, just use your breadboard etc. as a template and mark the holes with a center punch... then drill!
By stand off you mean the T sink ?
I would not glue it!
While the 180's may not need an extra aluminum plate it can be a good idea to use one anyway. You can screw that to the Tsink with counter sunk holes. I just use a bigger sized bit both for the counter sinking and creating the bevel at the same time. If you can use something with more precision than that for the bevel, do it. The screw's taper will make better contact with it and that will help ensure it doesn't come loose.
Then you can use rivets or screws from either side, bolts etc... or threaded holes in your chassis if thick enough to fasten the plate to the chassis with.
I actually use some heatsink compound on it as well.
I would not glue it!
While the 180's may not need an extra aluminum plate it can be a good idea to use one anyway. You can screw that to the Tsink with counter sunk holes. I just use a bigger sized bit both for the counter sinking and creating the bevel at the same time. If you can use something with more precision than that for the bevel, do it. The screw's taper will make better contact with it and that will help ensure it doesn't come loose.
Then you can use rivets or screws from either side, bolts etc... or threaded holes in your chassis if thick enough to fasten the plate to the chassis with.
I actually use some heatsink compound on it as well.
UDC180 2 ohm loaded
thanks a lot to everybody for very fast and extensive answers!
Nice guys are livin' here!🙂
thanks a lot to everybody for very fast and extensive answers!
Nice guys are livin' here!🙂
The base on your case is a covered steel sheeting and it things don't glue well to it (at least for long term!). So drill the holes out and then I found you get large burs on the reverse side of steel when drilled, so take a bit which is about two sizes large and do a very light drill from the reverse side to remove the burrs.
For cutting out the back plates you have alu on that Hifi 2000 case and so you can use an ordinary wood circular hole cutter to drill out the back plate. I put lots of paper masking tape over everything first because the alu granules tend to to get everywhere and scratch the surface. Clamp down the workpiece and peel off tape when finished for a perfect end result.
Also alu is soft enough you can use things like a wood jigsaw cutter if you need square holes, etc. Yes it doesn't do the blades any good of course.
For cutting out the back plates you have alu on that Hifi 2000 case and so you can use an ordinary wood circular hole cutter to drill out the back plate. I put lots of paper masking tape over everything first because the alu granules tend to to get everywhere and scratch the surface. Clamp down the workpiece and peel off tape when finished for a perfect end result.
Also alu is soft enough you can use things like a wood jigsaw cutter if you need square holes, etc. Yes it doesn't do the blades any good of course.
Daveis said:
I'll post how I built it, how I'm getting my UCD boxed and the bill of materials used, with step by step explanation and pictures. The whole thing takes a saturday morning if you have all material in.
Ciao
Thomas
Re: Re: UCD 180 and SupplyHG from Hypex: success!
I've already to do a mod recommended by Hypex (see attached file). SupplHG has an auxiliary +/-12V to supply the input buffer of the amp: how good is it?.
As I don't understand well what's an input buffer I'll enjoy the amps for a while, before I fry them 😉.
Ciao
Thomas
GregD said:
Have you checked out the UCD hotrodding thread . . .
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58873&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
I've already to do a mod recommended by Hypex (see attached file). SupplHG has an auxiliary +/-12V to supply the input buffer of the amp: how good is it?.
As I don't understand well what's an input buffer I'll enjoy the amps for a while, before I fry them 😉.
Ciao
Thomas
I am in the process now of building 5 UCD 400AD's monoblock amps.
Have been collecting parts for a while now.
In the process now of doing a lot of drilling on the 5 aluminum cases. I took a piece of card board and made a template of the case front, back, & bottom. Then measured & marked the position for holes on the template.
Put masking tape on the actual piece(s) to be drilled (as recommended above) for protection. Then taped on my card board template. Lightly marked each place for a hole with a center punch. Do it lightly if aluminum chassis.
Then drill pilot holes with like a 3/16" drill bit. My WBT NextGen RCA's required a 1/2" hole.
To mount the T-sinks, just take a piece of paper and a straight pin. Tape the piece of paper to the back of the T-sink and mark the mounting holes with the pin. Run a small magic marker along the outer edge of the T-sink, remove paper and trim outline of T-sink. Now you have a T-sink mounting hole template.
I used aluminum plate for the heatsink mounted to the rear of the chassis. Drill out the T-sink mounting holes with template and countersink them from other side.
De-burr everything with a small file.
Have been collecting parts for a while now.
In the process now of doing a lot of drilling on the 5 aluminum cases. I took a piece of card board and made a template of the case front, back, & bottom. Then measured & marked the position for holes on the template.
Put masking tape on the actual piece(s) to be drilled (as recommended above) for protection. Then taped on my card board template. Lightly marked each place for a hole with a center punch. Do it lightly if aluminum chassis.
Then drill pilot holes with like a 3/16" drill bit. My WBT NextGen RCA's required a 1/2" hole.
To mount the T-sinks, just take a piece of paper and a straight pin. Tape the piece of paper to the back of the T-sink and mark the mounting holes with the pin. Run a small magic marker along the outer edge of the T-sink, remove paper and trim outline of T-sink. Now you have a T-sink mounting hole template.
I used aluminum plate for the heatsink mounted to the rear of the chassis. Drill out the T-sink mounting holes with template and countersink them from other side.
De-burr everything with a small file.
My UcD180 boxed
Here is my amp....
To encourage beginners to try Ucd, here is the complete bill of materials, including chassis and screws 😉
The materials are divided in three "shops": Chassis, Hypex and the electronic shop near home. All material is anyway avalaible to www.audiokit.it, including Hypex stuff.
Something to add?
Thomas
Here is my amp....
To encourage beginners to try Ucd, here is the complete bill of materials, including chassis and screws 😉
The materials are divided in three "shops": Chassis, Hypex and the electronic shop near home. All material is anyway avalaible to www.audiokit.it, including Hypex stuff.
Something to add?
Thomas
Attachments
classd4sure said:
Uh! Forgotten this:
Damper big foot - HiFi2000
They are high enough to ventilate the bottom
Thanks
Re: My UcD180 boxed
Thomas,
Nice looking case!
Where did you get the stickers with UCD180 and the Hypex logo?
thomaseliot said:
[/B]
Thomas,
Nice looking case!
Where did you get the stickers with UCD180 and the Hypex logo?
Re: Re: My UcD180 boxed
Hi Saam
Just printed with an ink-jet, there are stickers made for that. Images are taken from pdf documents avalaible at www.hypex.nl: you can get high resolution images from a pdf
ciao
Thomas
Hi Saam
Just printed with an ink-jet, there are stickers made for that. Images are taken from pdf documents avalaible at www.hypex.nl: you can get high resolution images from a pdf
ciao
Thomas
Regarding the mods the first to do (most sonic reward for the effort) is shorting the coupling caps and using a good quality cap outboard between the RCA and the UcD (only one is needed when using RCA input, a good choice is eg 2uF Auricap). Just replace the RCA red wire in http://www.hypex.nl/docs/wiring.pdf by the input cap.
Hello!
I just calculating, how much would an 180Ad project will cost me, and need some help. I don't want to build the power supply myself, so have to choose from Hypex's stuff!:
So I have a question, for the pro diyers here 😀, what do you recommend to do; build a "dual-mono" with 2xtoroid + 2xsupply st, or a "normal", with 1xtoroid + 1x supplyhg?
(The 2xtransf.+2x hg power supply is sadly out of the my budget..)
I just calculating, how much would an 180Ad project will cost me, and need some help. I don't want to build the power supply myself, so have to choose from Hypex's stuff!:
So I have a question, for the pro diyers here 😀, what do you recommend to do; build a "dual-mono" with 2xtoroid + 2xsupply st, or a "normal", with 1xtoroid + 1x supplyhg?
(The 2xtransf.+2x hg power supply is sadly out of the my budget..)
I believe I would opt for the HG option in a stereo setup rather than dual mono with the cheaper parts. I believe you stand to gain more with the better components used in the HG supply, than you do with dual mono and cheaper parts.
You can minimize the disadvantages of a stereo setup by paying careful attention to your layout and wiring, and get very impressive results this way.
You can minimize the disadvantages of a stereo setup by paying careful attention to your layout and wiring, and get very impressive results this way.
Hi,
I recently got my UCD180 up and running. I noticed that the square ferrite of the output filter get hot to touch after say for about an hour of continuous usage . Is this normal?
Thanks.
I recently got my UCD180 up and running. I noticed that the square ferrite of the output filter get hot to touch after say for about an hour of continuous usage . Is this normal?
Thanks.
I understood from Hypex that this is not a problem at all. The ferrite even has lowest losses at 100 degrees Celsius. Just mount the module on a piece of aluminium, probably the material of which your housing is made, and everything will be fine. Ofcourse a couple of ventilation holes will do no harm😉.vt4c said:
