Re: fun
Yes, it seems so, anyway, a bit of fun so every now and then can not hurt.
Maybe start some serious stuff again, hmmmmmm, hmmmmm
Can`t think of anything right now
johnrtd said:
Yes, it seems so, anyway, a bit of fun so every now and then can not hurt.
Maybe start some serious stuff again, hmmmmmm, hmmmmm
Can`t think of anything right now
Hey guys,
As far as DC output from the modules go if you try it you can perhaps expect the odd high ESR electrolytic used for rail damping purposes to fly off like a piece of popcorn.
Continuous DC output would increase the ripple in them and ...... POP. You've seen it happen already with those who had DC error at the input and blew their caps clean off.
You should therefore upgrade those decouplers before attempting DC output.
BTW I got into class D originally as a means of high efficiency motor control 🙂
Such alternate uses is where alot of this class D audio technology comes from, industrial uses not envolving audio. It's also I believe why the patents _always_ make allowances for such alternate uses.
As far as DC output from the modules go if you try it you can perhaps expect the odd high ESR electrolytic used for rail damping purposes to fly off like a piece of popcorn.
Continuous DC output would increase the ripple in them and ...... POP. You've seen it happen already with those who had DC error at the input and blew their caps clean off.
You should therefore upgrade those decouplers before attempting DC output.
BTW I got into class D originally as a means of high efficiency motor control 🙂
Such alternate uses is where alot of this class D audio technology comes from, industrial uses not envolving audio. It's also I believe why the patents _always_ make allowances for such alternate uses.
Thanks to John and Chris for previous replies.
Cheers,
M
I choose "non-inductive" wirewound R to stick to the advice.
Cheers,
M
toroid transformers
Hi,
Finally getting around to putting together UCD180 amp, I bought 2 of these PAR metal cases but seems a shame I can fit every thing into one. My question is if I mount my 2 transformers this way with a vertical metal plate will I have a problem with magnetic fields interacting.
thanks
Bill
Hi,
Finally getting around to putting together UCD180 amp, I bought 2 of these PAR metal cases but seems a shame I can fit every thing into one. My question is if I mount my 2 transformers this way with a vertical metal plate will I have a problem with magnetic fields interacting.
thanks
Bill
Attachments
If you like, you can stack them ontop of one another as well.
Emissions are highest where the wires enter/exit. stacked on top of one another you can easily twist and turn while listening and see if it's worse having the wires close to each other/nearest the supplies..... etc.
Play around with it a little, see what works out best.
Emissions are highest where the wires enter/exit. stacked on top of one another you can easily twist and turn while listening and see if it's worse having the wires close to each other/nearest the supplies..... etc.
Play around with it a little, see what works out best.
Chris,
Thanks my application is for some subs so I doubt I will hear much, but I can play some sine waves threw them and check them on the scope. Just picked up a Tec 2235 eBay for $78 w freight looking for first good use. What freq do you thing would show most distortions? Mounting them on top of each other would probably be more robust as well.
Bill
Thanks my application is for some subs so I doubt I will hear much, but I can play some sine waves threw them and check them on the scope. Just picked up a Tec 2235 eBay for $78 w freight looking for first good use. What freq do you thing would show most distortions? Mounting them on top of each other would probably be more robust as well.
Bill
Frequency... I'd say run them what they're designed for, 60Hz.
I wouldnt' bother with the scope though, just leave a little slack in your twisted wires so you can twist them around later and check to make sure they're not causing audible interference. You'll probably find it a non issue.
Great to have a scope isn't it? 😀
I wouldnt' bother with the scope though, just leave a little slack in your twisted wires so you can twist them around later and check to make sure they're not causing audible interference. You'll probably find it a non issue.
Great to have a scope isn't it? 😀
yes,
I have an old Heathkit 40 mhz and was building some headphone amps and it was not able to show the oscillation problem I was having. I have been bidding on this scope model at least half a dozen times as high as $200. The fact it came with 3 probes and the manual totally shocked me. It has a lot more features than my old one, wish there was an old hand locally that was familiar with it.
I have an old Heathkit 40 mhz and was building some headphone amps and it was not able to show the oscillation problem I was having. I have been bidding on this scope model at least half a dozen times as high as $200. The fact it came with 3 probes and the manual totally shocked me. It has a lot more features than my old one, wish there was an old hand locally that was familiar with it.
Manuals are awesome!! All you need to know in there.
I just circumvented the "ebay" process, emailed the guy directly,
250USD for a TEK 7904A mainframe with two plugins and manuals.
In the end it came up to 465 or so with everything. I got the manual for the mainframe and another for a vertical amp. Still need probes.
All I had before that was a DMM. Suddenly I feel whole .. sniff.
I just circumvented the "ebay" process, emailed the guy directly,
250USD for a TEK 7904A mainframe with two plugins and manuals.
In the end it came up to 465 or so with everything. I got the manual for the mainframe and another for a vertical amp. Still need probes.
All I had before that was a DMM. Suddenly I feel whole .. sniff.
First of all, I would like to thank the guys at Hypex for providing such an outstanding amplifier. I'm using four channels of UcD180AD and two channels of 400AD and I'm extremely satisfied with their performance.
I have a question, I've tried to search the forum and the hypex datasheet without any luck and I hope I haven’t missed the answer somewhere...
I’m planning to drive the bases of my Linkwitz Orion with four channels of UcD180AD and use power JFET based amps for the mid and highs (PASS Zen version 9). The idea is to build 2 chassis that each holds 2 channels of Zen and 2 channels of UcD180AD. The problem is that the Zen will be very hot and I expect the case to hold a temperature of 60-65 degrees centigrade. Will such high temp damage the Hypexs or decrease their performance?
Any comments?
I have a question, I've tried to search the forum and the hypex datasheet without any luck and I hope I haven’t missed the answer somewhere...
I’m planning to drive the bases of my Linkwitz Orion with four channels of UcD180AD and use power JFET based amps for the mid and highs (PASS Zen version 9). The idea is to build 2 chassis that each holds 2 channels of Zen and 2 channels of UcD180AD. The problem is that the Zen will be very hot and I expect the case to hold a temperature of 60-65 degrees centigrade. Will such high temp damage the Hypexs or decrease their performance?
Any comments?
passive preamp question
Hi,
just ordered the components for my UcD 180 dual mono setup and planning to start with passive preamp (High quality 10k log stereo Pot) and unbalanced RCA Source.
According the hypex application note http://www.hypex.nl/docs/wiring.pdf signal ground (Pin 2) is connected to pin 3 (signal negative) via chassis shield. Does this results in half gain? 😕
Axel
Hi,
just ordered the components for my UcD 180 dual mono setup and planning to start with passive preamp (High quality 10k log stereo Pot) and unbalanced RCA Source.
According the hypex application note http://www.hypex.nl/docs/wiring.pdf signal ground (Pin 2) is connected to pin 3 (signal negative) via chassis shield. Does this results in half gain? 😕
Axel
I'd recommend building the interface cable and wire the input of your amp with an XLR. The convention for balanced XLR wiring is:
Pin #1: Shield/Chassis
Pin #2: Positive input
Pin #3: Negative inverting input
This way when you have ground currents flowing between equipment it is carried on the shield of the cable rather than the analog ground reference.
I sell a cable kit that is a very affordable way of implimenting this.
http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=89_117_122_126&products_id=609
Download the PDF directions and it gives very clear directions on how to make the interface cable.
Pin #1: Shield/Chassis
Pin #2: Positive input
Pin #3: Negative inverting input
This way when you have ground currents flowing between equipment it is carried on the shield of the cable rather than the analog ground reference.
I sell a cable kit that is a very affordable way of implimenting this.
http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=89_117_122_126&products_id=609
Download the PDF directions and it gives very clear directions on how to make the interface cable.
Thanks, but i cannot see, how the cable concerns unbalanced input / pot / power questions. 😕
At first i have unbalanced input and stereo pot, even with XLR at the amp.
Even if connecting shield and cold wire at the source - they are connected.
Does this results in half power or gain (only 1/2 of the balanced amp is used)?
Axel
At first i have unbalanced input and stereo pot, even with XLR at the amp.
Even if connecting shield and cold wire at the source - they are connected.
Does this results in half power or gain (only 1/2 of the balanced amp is used)?
Axel
Thanks Maxlorenz, realy happy about this (because of my costy Pot). 😀
There was an former post, regarding the modify of buffer-gain (by changing one or two resistors Rg, Rf) when Attenuator is used. Out of your reply i think this doesn't mak sense?
Axel
There was an former post, regarding the modify of buffer-gain (by changing one or two resistors Rg, Rf) when Attenuator is used. Out of your reply i think this doesn't mak sense?
Axel
Sorry... I got in a hurry on my reply and hadn't read your questions carefully.
I'm partnering with John Chapman of Bent Audio and we are making an integrated version of our kit that will use a relay based stepped attenuator in passive mode. It has the advantage of offering a remote but anytime you use a normal stereo pot you have to convert over to single ended before the pot.
Wire the RCA input as per the Hypex documentation (blue, black wire + adaptor cable shield) into the ground connection on the pot. Use the red wire on the signal. Bruno recommends lifting the chassis safety ground and using double insulation techniques. I'm not keen on lifting safety grounds so I typically recommend that rather than using a stereo pot, buy a four ganged pot and you can then wire it for a true balanced input and use the adaptor cable as I suggested earlier.
In terms of gain don't worry about changing the gain (via resistor changes) unless you need it. If you find you need more it is easy to change a couple resistors on board to get extra gain.
I'm partnering with John Chapman of Bent Audio and we are making an integrated version of our kit that will use a relay based stepped attenuator in passive mode. It has the advantage of offering a remote but anytime you use a normal stereo pot you have to convert over to single ended before the pot.
Wire the RCA input as per the Hypex documentation (blue, black wire + adaptor cable shield) into the ground connection on the pot. Use the red wire on the signal. Bruno recommends lifting the chassis safety ground and using double insulation techniques. I'm not keen on lifting safety grounds so I typically recommend that rather than using a stereo pot, buy a four ganged pot and you can then wire it for a true balanced input and use the adaptor cable as I suggested earlier.
In terms of gain don't worry about changing the gain (via resistor changes) unless you need it. If you find you need more it is easy to change a couple resistors on board to get extra gain.
Axelarnold, Kevin Haskins.
You do NOT have to convert to single ended just to use a stereo pot as volumen control. If you place a resistor in series with both the + and - input and use the pot to short circuit betwen the + an - at the UcD input.
This way you have a very good balanced volumen control.
For most applications you will have to increase the gain in the UcD modules to use a passive volumen control instead of a pre-amp. But it is very easy to do so.
Koldby
You do NOT have to convert to single ended just to use a stereo pot as volumen control. If you place a resistor in series with both the + and - input and use the pot to short circuit betwen the + an - at the UcD input.
This way you have a very good balanced volumen control.
For most applications you will have to increase the gain in the UcD modules to use a passive volumen control instead of a pre-amp. But it is very easy to do so.
Koldby
Hmmm.... I can understand using a pot to control the ground to signal resistor. Do you have a link or something that explains what your talking about in more detail?
