holy crap that is a neat idea! Null the inputs and you get complete silence... Pretty fart smeller...
After long research i have boiled my components down to the following:
2 pcs UCD 180ST , ofcourse ;-)
2 Hypex HG supply (chose these cuz i am i plug-n-play kinda guy)
2 Schuro V-RKT-MS-SW 300.30 Toroids 300va
1 Audiokit GX 388 Galaxy cabinet
I intend to make a dual mono setup in a small enclosure fitting my Belles Soloist 3 preamps size.
Now, do i need softstart for those toroids.? I have a LC Audio softstart availible.
😕
And if so do i just hookup the mains wires in parallel on the LC board.? (holes are very small ;-))
http://www.lcaudio.dk/index.php?page=12
Thanks in advance
2 pcs UCD 180ST , ofcourse ;-)
2 Hypex HG supply (chose these cuz i am i plug-n-play kinda guy)
2 Schuro V-RKT-MS-SW 300.30 Toroids 300va
1 Audiokit GX 388 Galaxy cabinet
I intend to make a dual mono setup in a small enclosure fitting my Belles Soloist 3 preamps size.
Now, do i need softstart for those toroids.? I have a LC Audio softstart availible.
😕
And if so do i just hookup the mains wires in parallel on the LC board.? (holes are very small ;-))
http://www.lcaudio.dk/index.php?page=12
Thanks in advance
Kolby, PeterDaniel,
thanks for your help, any suggestions about the values of the resistors
- before the 10k log stereo Pot and
- new gain controlling Rf / Rg?
In the meantime i try to refresh my knowlede about Kirchhoff' laws. Ri of the UcD's is 100 k, CD Player out maybe some 30 Ohm at 1V?
Axel
thanks for your help, any suggestions about the values of the resistors
- before the 10k log stereo Pot and
- new gain controlling Rf / Rg?
In the meantime i try to refresh my knowlede about Kirchhoff' laws. Ri of the UcD's is 100 k, CD Player out maybe some 30 Ohm at 1V?
Axel
Hi!
Has anybody got problems with UcD with no load at the output? I would like to make an SMPS with feedback from output filter. So, the UcD is also fed back from the output LC. If there is no load, or that is small enough to enlarge the gain at resonance to meet the nyquist criteria, at the upper range the stability margins will be insufficient.
The UcD has the similar feedback. But I haven't consider that the UcD's coil current can't be chopped, so the nyquist frequencies of open loop can be moved with supply voltage, component parameters or load impedance.
Does anybody know how this stability problem is solved in UcD? (And I also considered what occured to me at the moment: that the UcD is self-resonant
)
Sorry! But any idea?
Gyula
Has anybody got problems with UcD with no load at the output? I would like to make an SMPS with feedback from output filter. So, the UcD is also fed back from the output LC. If there is no load, or that is small enough to enlarge the gain at resonance to meet the nyquist criteria, at the upper range the stability margins will be insufficient.
The UcD has the similar feedback. But I haven't consider that the UcD's coil current can't be chopped, so the nyquist frequencies of open loop can be moved with supply voltage, component parameters or load impedance.
Does anybody know how this stability problem is solved in UcD? (And I also considered what occured to me at the moment: that the UcD is self-resonant
)Sorry! But any idea?
Gyula
Now I just read about a control method in Karsten Nielsen's Thesis. He calls it CVFC. It seems to be suitable for this case, because he divides the second order LC into two first order systems: one with the coil's current as output (the coil), and one with the capacitor's voltage as output (the cap. and the load). It could be my mind. This is the same case with PFC control. 
Thanks Karsten!
So the controller goes to the secondary side, and
.
Gyula
Note: I think the modulator delay's and spectral behaviour's effect on stability haven't examined correctly in this chapter. But it is a fair, great work! Thanks Karsten!
Thanks Karsten!So the controller goes to the secondary side, and
.Gyula
Note: I think the modulator delay's and spectral behaviour's effect on stability haven't examined correctly in this chapter. But it is a fair, great work! Thanks Karsten!
Hi everybody
Looks like I made myself a Christmas "present" - I think I burned one of my modules. I powered the supply before connecting it to modules just to check the voltage. Then I disconnected it, but forgot to discharge the caps. When I connected it to one of the modules, I first connected the V+ and V- rails, and then the ground (bad 🙁 ). There was a small spark and now the module is dead - the LED is off, no sound, nothing. The voltage looks ok, +/-49.1V. I checked whether the output is shorted - not. 0V on output. The other module works fine. Also, the /on pin is tied to ground.
What's most likely to get fried in this case? I remember that Hypex offered a repair service, is that so?
Merry Christmas to everyone!
Looks like I made myself a Christmas "present" - I think I burned one of my modules. I powered the supply before connecting it to modules just to check the voltage. Then I disconnected it, but forgot to discharge the caps. When I connected it to one of the modules, I first connected the V+ and V- rails, and then the ground (bad 🙁 ). There was a small spark and now the module is dead - the LED is off, no sound, nothing. The voltage looks ok, +/-49.1V. I checked whether the output is shorted - not. 0V on output. The other module works fine. Also, the /on pin is tied to ground.
What's most likely to get fried in this case? I remember that Hypex offered a repair service, is that so?
Merry Christmas to everyone!
I would think the most likely candidate would be the 4093 quad schmitt NAND . As it is 4000 series CMOS it is very susceptible to overvoltage failure.
Although it is supplied from the +ve regulated supply (+12V or +15V I'm not sure?), the small 'spark' you describe may just have got through, and destroyed the 4093.
result - no amplifier switch on/off function.
You should be able to check for failure _
1) Is the chip even slightly warm? - if so, it's probably dead.
2) Check the 4 gates are functioning -- all pins should read either 0V or +V (+V is the same voltage present on pin14 and 0V is pin7).
If 1&2 are +Ve, then pin 3 will be 0V
If either 1,2 or both are 0V, then pin 3 should read +V
Same logic goes for the other 3 gates i.e. pins 5,6 and 4 --- pins 8,9 and 10, and 12,13 and 11 (last number in each group is the output).
If the logic is wrong, or the readings are not exactly +V or 0V then the chip is most likely dead.
It could be something else, but the other components are less likely to fail from a 'little' spark.
Except of course the output FETs - but as you measure 0V on the output, they may be OK.
Although it is supplied from the +ve regulated supply (+12V or +15V I'm not sure?), the small 'spark' you describe may just have got through, and destroyed the 4093.
result - no amplifier switch on/off function.
You should be able to check for failure _
1) Is the chip even slightly warm? - if so, it's probably dead.
2) Check the 4 gates are functioning -- all pins should read either 0V or +V (+V is the same voltage present on pin14 and 0V is pin7).
If 1&2 are +Ve, then pin 3 will be 0V
If either 1,2 or both are 0V, then pin 3 should read +V
Same logic goes for the other 3 gates i.e. pins 5,6 and 4 --- pins 8,9 and 10, and 12,13 and 11 (last number in each group is the output).
If the logic is wrong, or the readings are not exactly +V or 0V then the chip is most likely dead.
It could be something else, but the other components are less likely to fail from a 'little' spark.
Except of course the output FETs - but as you measure 0V on the output, they may be OK.
ARRGGHhhhhGHhhgHHH
just had to let that out, 205 pages later, after 3 days of reading after work I think I've remembered enough info form this massive thread to ask my questions/ know if they have been asked. I'm totally new to building these kinds of things, I'm more of a simple circuit/ cable building kinda guy. I just havn't had much to build. I mean I almost had a scart RGB+h/v sync to sync on green converter for my older video game system, but the cap sucked the life out of the green and I couldn't figure out how to do a line fusion without it. at least the picture was very stable without any flipping / edge glow or fish lens warp.
Anyway yah, that has nothing to do with this, but I just wanted to give you guys an example of .. mindless rambling...
OP Amps
question 1)
The aux out trick with the HG supply to feed the opamp with better power. This can be done to two amps with 2 lines branching out from the aux out on the hg supply? I just wanted to know if this was okay or if one opamp would interfere with the other.
question 2)
The AD8066 was called out for testing but no one ever posted results compared to the AD8620. From what ive been reading on data sheets, the main differences are
ad8066 / ad8620
Amplifier IC type FET / JFET
Voltage, supply +nom 5 V / 13 V
Bandwidth 145 MHz / 25 MHz
Voltage, input offset max 400 mV / 100 µV
Slew rate 180 / 50V/µs
Price Per Unit £3.06 / £10.08
Farnell in-one exports
I would like to know what people think of these two amps because they are both highly recommended in another review. Also, the 8066 is much cheaper and would require *something I will read about later* to drop the 12v aux to 5v. I almost want to buy a ST model of the 180 and drop in a ad8066.
Transformers
Bob bob be bop... i love that sound effect
Anyway, Torrids, too tall, I wish i could lop them off somewhere.
I saw someone looking into modifing a philips halogen transformer. His results were something like 'no audible differences or power loss' except there was no hum. Now I only ask about these because I don't think a conclusion was kinda met about using them. Also the transformers looked very low profile. I think there was some cap mod to make them work with a UCD but I'm not sure. Sometimes these things get so lost among the rapid fire replies about swapping the caps on the ucd or psu.
I ask about the low profile because I REALLY wanna try to fit a stereo amp (2x ucd, 1x hg supply, 2x transformers) into a 1u case. so i have about 3.8cm to work with. the 2u (8.8cm) is an option, I know, but I just love slim rack mount cases. I want to build 3x stereo amplifiers to do an active tri-amp. The preamp box will have the cross over. The pre-amp will have a small switch to bypass the Xover (i'll rip that little 115-230v out of an old computer psu). That way I can do much more with the system in case I want to test speakers or run multichannel etc...
So first I build the pre-amp, then design a stereo, if all goes swimingly and I have money again, build another stereo, and another and another and another... and another.
Okay I'm done, thanks for reading
just had to let that out, 205 pages later, after 3 days of reading after work I think I've remembered enough info form this massive thread to ask my questions/ know if they have been asked. I'm totally new to building these kinds of things, I'm more of a simple circuit/ cable building kinda guy. I just havn't had much to build. I mean I almost had a scart RGB+h/v sync to sync on green converter for my older video game system, but the cap sucked the life out of the green and I couldn't figure out how to do a line fusion without it. at least the picture was very stable without any flipping / edge glow or fish lens warp.
Anyway yah, that has nothing to do with this, but I just wanted to give you guys an example of .. mindless rambling...
OP Amps
question 1)
The aux out trick with the HG supply to feed the opamp with better power. This can be done to two amps with 2 lines branching out from the aux out on the hg supply? I just wanted to know if this was okay or if one opamp would interfere with the other.
question 2)
The AD8066 was called out for testing but no one ever posted results compared to the AD8620. From what ive been reading on data sheets, the main differences are
ad8066 / ad8620
Amplifier IC type FET / JFET
Voltage, supply +nom 5 V / 13 V
Bandwidth 145 MHz / 25 MHz
Voltage, input offset max 400 mV / 100 µV
Slew rate 180 / 50V/µs
Price Per Unit £3.06 / £10.08
Farnell in-one exports
I would like to know what people think of these two amps because they are both highly recommended in another review. Also, the 8066 is much cheaper and would require *something I will read about later* to drop the 12v aux to 5v. I almost want to buy a ST model of the 180 and drop in a ad8066.
Transformers
Bob bob be bop... i love that sound effect
Anyway, Torrids, too tall, I wish i could lop them off somewhere.
I saw someone looking into modifing a philips halogen transformer. His results were something like 'no audible differences or power loss' except there was no hum. Now I only ask about these because I don't think a conclusion was kinda met about using them. Also the transformers looked very low profile. I think there was some cap mod to make them work with a UCD but I'm not sure. Sometimes these things get so lost among the rapid fire replies about swapping the caps on the ucd or psu.
I ask about the low profile because I REALLY wanna try to fit a stereo amp (2x ucd, 1x hg supply, 2x transformers) into a 1u case. so i have about 3.8cm to work with. the 2u (8.8cm) is an option, I know, but I just love slim rack mount cases. I want to build 3x stereo amplifiers to do an active tri-amp. The preamp box will have the cross over. The pre-amp will have a small switch to bypass the Xover (i'll rip that little 115-230v out of an old computer psu). That way I can do much more with the system in case I want to test speakers or run multichannel etc...
So first I build the pre-amp, then design a stereo, if all goes swimingly and I have money again, build another stereo, and another and another and another... and another.
Okay I'm done, thanks for reading
Sorry, two more simple questions. The power on switch on the ucd180 is a momentary or a throw?
I want to desoder the caps on the HG supply and put them on their sides, use a wire to feed them back into the pcb (So i can have a low profile). Do you guys have a recomendation for the wire to do this? I was gonna just use the regular signal cables or mains cable, which is recommended? I believe the filter caps would require mains cabling right?
I want to desoder the caps on the HG supply and put them on their sides, use a wire to feed them back into the pcb (So i can have a low profile). Do you guys have a recomendation for the wire to do this? I was gonna just use the regular signal cables or mains cable, which is recommended? I believe the filter caps would require mains cabling right?
Adrianb said:
If you're gonna go this far I'd say it's better not to get the HG supply and go with a DIY supplya and save some money. The power on switch on the modules itself is a more of a muting function, I don't think it has to do anything to do with the power lines themselves...
The AD8066 accepts +12/-12V supplies (see the datasheet max 24V supply), it might need better decoupling.
I was thinking about building my own psu, but i'm not very experienced with that sorta part picking. After reading this thread I just kept thinking to myself 'oh man, I don't wanna have to wade through a million difference caps and hope they turn alrigh't haha. I'm used to just grabbn a 'cap' or a diode or resistor of some rating and going home, never balancing more technical specs or things relating to audio quality. Simply because I don't have the experience with them. Would anyone happen to have a place for me to start on building a couple of decent quality psus? The slit foil caps aren't that far from my price range so I'd like to use them if possible, or something comparable.
Ive seen lots of lovely pictures of home brew supplies, but nothing to help duplicate them. I'm paint by numbers with building electronics at this point haha.
Ive seen lots of lovely pictures of home brew supplies, but nothing to help duplicate them. I'm paint by numbers with building electronics at this point haha.
Dear Adrian,
This is what I would do now if I had to build a stereo amp, based mostly on sound preferences and also what seems to be the common consense here and at pinkfishmedia 😉
*Module: buy UCD180standard and then change the opamp for the new LM4562, "free samples" 😉
*TX: ideally, R-core (if you can find one; I couldn't) , around 250VA to avoid inrush current limiter need.
I would make 45VDC or less PSU to be able to swap module's own PS caps for Ruby ZL 470uF/50V (I use Ruby ZL 470uF/100V on my UCD400 and I'm very pleased with the change).
BUT, you live next to Plitron's wich makes excellent toroids 🙂
*DIY power supply: all you need is a (pair of) bridge rectifiers and a pair of big caps. I've never tried DNM's T-networks caps but they seem ideal here as you want all HF noise immunity that you can find.
There's a lot of info about common type v/s slow recovery diode types here.
*DC couple the signal. Shielded signal wire (I did not
)
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
M
This is what I would do now if I had to build a stereo amp, based mostly on sound preferences and also what seems to be the common consense here and at pinkfishmedia 😉
*Module: buy UCD180standard and then change the opamp for the new LM4562, "free samples" 😉
*TX: ideally, R-core (if you can find one; I couldn't) , around 250VA to avoid inrush current limiter need.
I would make 45VDC or less PSU to be able to swap module's own PS caps for Ruby ZL 470uF/50V (I use Ruby ZL 470uF/100V on my UCD400 and I'm very pleased with the change).
BUT, you live next to Plitron's wich makes excellent toroids 🙂
*DIY power supply: all you need is a (pair of) bridge rectifiers and a pair of big caps. I've never tried DNM's T-networks caps but they seem ideal here as you want all HF noise immunity that you can find.
There's a lot of info about common type v/s slow recovery diode types here.
*DC couple the signal. Shielded signal wire (I did not
)I hope this helps.
Good luck.
M
The exactly the kind of help I was looking for thanks max!
this opamp looks pretty bitchn from what I can understand in the data sheets. it's max power intake is like 36v, is there a 'happy zone' for it ? Should I just drive it at an average between the 2.5v and 17V they reccomend? so like 10v or 12v if I'm feeling sassy. I just remember people talking about under powerd opamps or something a few hundred or thousand replies ago. I could just be confused.
Something I'm looking into as a work around for tall components is punching out peices of the case's base and making some sort of screw on pan that dips down just far enough to clear the ceiling. So many of these old amps (the ones I have atleast) do this to improve airflow under the motherboard, i shold have plenty of pre-made pans to drill for.
thanks for the recommendation on the caps. I've build up a fairly decent list of part suppliers in Canada and I'm having more luck finding big and little names, I was able to find Yageo (jan said they used them in the ucd400 series).
While readn over bruno's amp reference amp I saw the LEDs as zenners. I totally forgot about that trick. My dad taught it to me way back while I was learning to play with lights and slot cars. I wonder if I can find LEDs to take the place of smaller diodes, should be able to get some very low rated ones. I know I probably wont need it but I was just thinking about how to condition the aux line to the opamp better if it really does need anything.
I've found abit of reading on R-cores, I'm definately not building an amp without it. Man, the aesthetics alone, it looks like a freakn' Twinkie snack pack. Hostess powering my gear? I think a deliscious yes.
Something that came to mind, The secondary outputs on transformers. Can I design a small circuit to grab 2 signals from a higher source power? Like if i had an output of 45-0-45, could I snag 12v away from it and send 31v to the psu? I threw in an extra 2v inc ase a regulator or something drops it by 1 on each. I ask this because I might not be able to find a dual secondary output on the transformer I like. If i find a dual secondary with higher power than I need I can just drop it no problem. I'm just figuring out ways around potential issues.
I'm much more enthusiastic about this amp now, whoo!
this opamp looks pretty bitchn from what I can understand in the data sheets. it's max power intake is like 36v, is there a 'happy zone' for it ? Should I just drive it at an average between the 2.5v and 17V they reccomend? so like 10v or 12v if I'm feeling sassy. I just remember people talking about under powerd opamps or something a few hundred or thousand replies ago. I could just be confused.
Something I'm looking into as a work around for tall components is punching out peices of the case's base and making some sort of screw on pan that dips down just far enough to clear the ceiling. So many of these old amps (the ones I have atleast) do this to improve airflow under the motherboard, i shold have plenty of pre-made pans to drill for.
thanks for the recommendation on the caps. I've build up a fairly decent list of part suppliers in Canada and I'm having more luck finding big and little names, I was able to find Yageo (jan said they used them in the ucd400 series).
While readn over bruno's amp reference amp I saw the LEDs as zenners. I totally forgot about that trick. My dad taught it to me way back while I was learning to play with lights and slot cars. I wonder if I can find LEDs to take the place of smaller diodes, should be able to get some very low rated ones. I know I probably wont need it but I was just thinking about how to condition the aux line to the opamp better if it really does need anything.
I've found abit of reading on R-cores, I'm definately not building an amp without it. Man, the aesthetics alone, it looks like a freakn' Twinkie snack pack. Hostess powering my gear? I think a deliscious yes.
Something that came to mind, The secondary outputs on transformers. Can I design a small circuit to grab 2 signals from a higher source power? Like if i had an output of 45-0-45, could I snag 12v away from it and send 31v to the psu? I threw in an extra 2v inc ase a regulator or something drops it by 1 on each. I ask this because I might not be able to find a dual secondary output on the transformer I like. If i find a dual secondary with higher power than I need I can just drop it no problem. I'm just figuring out ways around potential issues.
I'm much more enthusiastic about this amp now, whoo!
Hi AdrianB,
De rien 🙂
Yes, I can see your enthousiasm. Maybe you should build the simpler form of it, enjoy it...and then think of more complicated things like aux supply.
In my case, I gave up for the moment to the aux PS idea, because of cost, real estate and possibility of noise (I'm very good at it 😀 ). Instead I tried the CRD mod. I really can't say how much it improves things because I also changed the opamps in that ocasion... but others like it, so...Anyway, my amps are very silent now (maybe thanks to opamp's noise immunity).
Main PS caps:
I thought about it and checked out the prices for the Jensen's. They are comparable to DNM's slitfoils, plus, one can avoid bank transfer fees to UK...see:
http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/M...creen=CTGY&Store_Code=RAM&Category_Code=JE4PA
J_E_AU_10000_63 Jensen Electrolytic 10000uF/63V Four Pole [35mm x 50mm] $45.00
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/CapacitorsElectrolytic.html
JENSEN; SKU: 68086 4 - pole, 10000uf/ 63v (35 x 50) $44.95
They are not cheap but, hey! it's an investment for many years 😉
Plus they are very attractive, based on the descriptions.
They are very happy on +/-15V from the module's own PS.
They still are happy on +/-8V from my cheap multiformat player. Honestly, I can't tell a difference. I remember THD going up after 10V on the data sheet (?), but still very low. I hope some expert will jump in and explain...
I thought that, given that LM4562 is so brutally transparent and "neutral", maybe pairing it to Ruby ZL will make a too neutral amp (wich is good to me; I prefer to colour at the source 😀 ) and some would prefer a more coloured/warm module PS cap like a suitable Elna.
All is well IF safety is preserved!
A big box is I a good thing in DIY. Vertical orientation of the PCB is good for convective airflow cooling.
Well, if you find a dealer please tell us so 😉 We may have to make a good reserve of them given the rise in copper price 😀
Here I lost you...think again 😀
Bye,
M
De rien 🙂
Yes, I can see your enthousiasm. Maybe you should build the simpler form of it, enjoy it...and then think of more complicated things like aux supply.
In my case, I gave up for the moment to the aux PS idea, because of cost, real estate and possibility of noise (I'm very good at it 😀 ). Instead I tried the CRD mod. I really can't say how much it improves things because I also changed the opamps in that ocasion...
but others like it, so...Anyway, my amps are very silent now (maybe thanks to opamp's noise immunity). Main PS caps:
I thought about it and checked out the prices for the Jensen's. They are comparable to DNM's slitfoils, plus, one can avoid bank transfer fees to UK...see:
http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/M...creen=CTGY&Store_Code=RAM&Category_Code=JE4PA
J_E_AU_10000_63 Jensen Electrolytic 10000uF/63V Four Pole [35mm x 50mm] $45.00
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/CapacitorsElectrolytic.html
JENSEN; SKU: 68086 4 - pole, 10000uf/ 63v (35 x 50) $44.95
They are not cheap but, hey! it's an investment for many years 😉
Plus they are very attractive, based on the descriptions.
They are very happy on +/-15V from the module's own PS.
They still are happy on +/-8V from my cheap multiformat player. Honestly, I can't tell a difference. I remember THD going up after 10V on the data sheet (?), but still very low. I hope some expert will jump in and explain...
I thought that, given that LM4562 is so brutally transparent and "neutral", maybe pairing it to Ruby ZL will make a too neutral amp (wich is good to me; I prefer to colour at the source 😀 ) and some would prefer a more coloured/warm module PS cap like a suitable Elna.
All is well IF safety is preserved!
A big box is I a good thing in DIY. Vertical orientation of the PCB is good for convective airflow cooling.
Well, if you find a dealer please tell us so 😉 We may have to make a good reserve of them given the rise in copper price 😀
Here I lost you...think again 😀
Bye,
M
maxlorenz said:Dear Adrian,
This is what I would do now if I had to build a stereo amp, based mostly on sound preferences and also what seems to be the common consense here and at pinkfishmedia 😉
*Module: buy UCD180standard and then change the opamp for the new LM4562, "free samples" 😉
*TX: ideally, R-core (if you can find one; I couldn't) , around 250VA to avoid inrush current limiter need.
I would make 45VDC or less PSU to be able to swap module's own PS caps for Ruby ZL 470uF/50V (I use Ruby ZL 470uF/100V on my UCD400 and I'm very pleased with the change).
BUT, you live next to Plitron's wich makes excellent toroids 🙂
*DIY power supply: all you need is a (pair of) bridge rectifiers and a pair of big caps. I've never tried DNM's T-networks caps but they seem ideal here as you want all HF noise immunity that you can find.
There's a lot of info about common type v/s slow recovery diode types here.
*DC couple the signal. Shielded signal wire (I did not
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
M
hello,
just a quick question.. I keep reading/hearing about ZL caps... what are THEY ??
Hi RX5 
Rubycon ZL/ZA caps:
http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/M...Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RAM&Category_Code=RUBY
These guys make a lot of mods and recommend them over Black Gates, wich they also sell (at bigger prices) so I tried them at PS decoupling and fell in love...
(Farnell has them; big shipping costs)
Happy New Year!!!
M
Rubycon ZL/ZA caps:
http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/M...Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RAM&Category_Code=RUBY
These guys make a lot of mods and recommend them over Black Gates, wich they also sell (at bigger prices) so I tried them at PS decoupling and fell in love...
(Farnell has them; big shipping costs)
Happy New Year!!!
M
Well, sort of...these guys aren't cheap, but you can try at Farnell or here at the market place.
Bye,
M
Bye,
M
Okay, So I found some places to buy R-cores. unfortunately the first source is a Chinese manufacturer who sells a min of 100 per order. the second is Pheonix, a retailer in co-hoots with the company who made R-core, Japanese only website. The last was one more website but their min order was negotiable, they never got back to me about it, damn.