Tube-lover SE and Full Balance TDA1541a DAC

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Julien_M said:
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I`m using the I/V board with 4 op-amps (iv1) as it has a higher output than the simpler version (I need to drive a passive TVC pre and a sub). This board also outputs the right (+) polarity, the simpler one doesn`t invert polarity, so you have to do it somewhere else in the system, like the speakers if you want an in-phase system output.

Hello Julien,
I am not sure to understand this polarity issue . Does it mean that the speakers are not in phase if i use the two op-amps board? To solve it i have to change the + on one speaker?
I also have problems with the different modes. I am using a two op-amps board and i put the jumpers as you said for the different modes and it is not working except for the Nos +reclock mode(work well). No sound go out of the dac for the other modes. Can you confirm that your explanations are good for a two op-amps board? (or it is only for a four op-amps board?)
Finally, how did you connect the four op-amps board? (like the two op-amps one or not?). The board size is bigger than the two op-amps board and the jumpers doesn't fit.

Thanks for your help. I am a little bit lost...

Naka.
 
Hi Naka,

The four opamp pcb is pin fit to the TDA1541a pcb, just like the two opamp pcb. It is a bit longer and stick out a bit. If you have the TDA1541a board sitting too near to the casing, you will have problem fitting it.
Well, this is what I did to pin fit them. First, fit the loose pins into the TDA1541a board. Now place the 4 opamp pcb on top and make sure all pins are through the hole. Solder one pin a time until they are all done. Now your four opamp pcb gureentee to fit the TDA1541a board. BTW, there two screw hole on the 4 opamp pcb and two on the TDA1541a pcb. They should be on top of each other and is a good indicator how they both align. These holes are for you to secure the 4 opamp pcb with screw and nuts, which is a good thing to do as they do come loose quite easily in my open case.

Personally I find the the 4 opamp option sounds better than the 2 opamp. I am getting Opa627bp and will see how that sound.


Have fun :D
 
audenaka said:
Julien_M said:
[

I`m using the I/V board with 4 op-amps (iv1) as it has a higher output than the simpler version (I need to drive a passive TVC pre and a sub). This board also outputs the right (+) polarity, the simpler one doesn`t invert polarity, so you have to do it somewhere else in the system, like the speakers if you want an in-phase system output.

Hello Julien,
I am not sure to understand this polarity issue . Does it mean that the speakers are not in phase if i use the two op-amps board? To solve it i have to change the + on one speaker?
I also have problems with the different modes. I am using a two op-amps board and i put the jumpers as you said for the different modes and it is not working except for the Nos +reclock mode(work well). No sound go out of the dac for the other modes. Can you confirm that your explanations are good for a two op-amps board? (or it is only for a four op-amps board?)
Finally, how did you connect the four op-amps board? (like the two op-amps one or not?). The board size is bigger than the two op-amps board and the jumpers doesn't fit.

Thanks for your help. I am a little bit lost...

Naka.

Bonjour Naka,

Yes, the 2 op-amp board outputs the signal out of phase (-). To have your system in phase (+), you would have to reverse the wiring on both your speakers. For example: red to (-) and black to (+).
The jumpers do not affect the op-amp board, only the input board. I have tested them all in my DAC and they all worked. The thing you must not forget is to set the switches as well.
Lastly check your jumpers, make sure they have the metal innards, some of the jumpers I got with the DAC are very loose and fall off the plastic casing.
The 4 op-amp board connects just like the 2 op-amp board, you just have to solder the pins to it.
Hope that helps,
 
hi audenaka,
Use 2 or 4 op-amp ( sonic differerent ) was base on your taste of music. if your set up was very detail, use 4 op-amp will be better.

if U like little bit of Hf aIr, choose 2 op-AMP.

ANOTHER LARGE IMPROVEMENT WAS choose banny remove all the capacitors in op-AMP BOARD.

julien was another very experience person can advise for U.

another large different was remove the IV board, use IV transformers( 10ma~1:10). also can large sonic different!

But mainly was U like my DAC sonic or not. step b step to tr the set UP. U will love it.

If U love the NOS or 7220+1541. U can considerate DIR9100.

improve most.

Julien can tell U about DIR chips performance.

Sam & julien, many thank a lot.

1:10 IV transformers need full potted & better band width.

that why I use Nano amorphous to make for it.

take a look for the photos.


thx

thomas

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Hi everybody,

Thanks again for all.
I succeed changing the two op-amps to the four and as you said i prefer the 4 op sound. finally, all the modes settings are working now! I prefer the Nos+ reclock one.
Sorry Audiovox but i have already ordered 4 opa627bp.too late for me.

I would like now to improve the clock.which voltage do i need for the clock. Can i change it for a XCO clock or need i a power supply for the clock?
What is the DIR 9100? is it easy to connect it to the dac?
Thomas, you said that we can remove all caps on the op-amp board. How can we do that, just simply remove them?

Thanks,

Naka.
 
tube-lover said:


another large different was remove the IV board, use IV transformers( 10ma~1:10). also can large sonic different!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Hi Thomas,

Can you tell us more about the IV transformer? My guess it is a passive device and no need power? Well, I am using a passive preamp and will this work well with the IV transformer? Would also like to know how it compared to the tube buffers. My DAC is still in open case so I still have space to growth.
Also about the DIR9100, I am aware it doesn't work with external clock, does it has internal clock? Is DIR9100 better than stock NOS with reclock?

Sam
 
hi bakus11 ( Alan),

since protype was funished already & test in very good spec.

But music finally mst pass our human ear.

I need pass human ear test with this LP set up & will put into market.

BUT so unhappy was this transformers ( 1:10) will lttle bit large in size although I use nickel base nano amorphous core. Reason for that was I must design 1:10 step up transformers
can pass 10ma current.

this transformers had small air to prevent saturation. But use air gap will lower inductance in same no of turns, increase no of turns will increase no of layers( total layers). Then leakage, capcitance & mainly was phase shift will effect much more & effect performance. That why although the core was nickel base nano amorphous. I still use larger one to compensate the inductance missing which cause by air gap.

if U did not like to use this Iv transfor DAC. U can use in your MC phone amp.


I will finally use my LP set up to test its performance.

thx

thomas


137-1.jpg
 
audenaka said:
Hi everybody,

Thanks again for all.
I succeed changing the two op-amps to the four and as you said i prefer the 4 op sound. finally, all the modes settings are working now! I prefer the Nos+ reclock one.
Sorry Audiovox but i have already ordered 4 opa627bp.too late for me.

I would like now to improve the clock.which voltage do i need for the clock. Can i change it for a XCO clock or need i a power supply for the clock?
What is the DIR 9100? is it easy to connect it to the dac?
Thomas, you said that we can remove all caps on the op-amp board. How can we do that, just simply remove them?

Thanks,

Naka.

Hello Naka,

The clock needs +5VDC. And if you have the SE version of the DAC, you should have 2 +5VDC outputs at the power supply that are not being used. I haven't gotten to it yet, but you should be able to isolate the power rails for the clock by modifying the PCB and feed it directly to one of the +5VDC outputs.

The DIR9001 is an input receiver and replaces the CS8412/8414. It is not a direct replacement. It needs an adaptor and voltage regulator to bring the voltage down to 3.3VDC. There's an diyAudio member that sells an assembled converter that is a direct replacement to the CS8412/8414 (Thomas posted a link a few messages ago). I have bought 2 of them. They work fine but I still have to do a few more listening sessions to determine its advantage over the other chips. In my first trials I preferred the CS8414 better than CS8412 and DIR9001 adapter. I felt the DIR9001 has a "harder" sound than the others and that the CS8412 give me too much listening fatigue. All these without the re-clock circuit enabled. I still prefer the sound of my DAC without re-clock.

Lastly, regarding the caps in the 4 op-amp I/V board. Not all caps can be removed. Only some that filter out the DC in the signal. You should be able to safely remove (replace with a jumper) C11 and C12. But you must measure for DC voltage in the output before connecting to your system, it should be next to nothing.
You might want to try to replace C7 and C8 with film caps or non-polar BlackGates. For C7 and C8 you should be ok if you keep the values between 5uF and 10uF. I'm using 4uF Auricaps I had and it works fine. You can even try to bypass these caps with low value Teflon caps. I might try that in the future...
That should bring you more resolution from your DAC.

Let us know how you like the sound after your tweaks...
 
Julien_M said:


The DIR9001 is an input receiver and replaces the CS8412/8414. It is not a direct replacement. It needs an adaptor and voltage regulator to bring the voltage down to 3.3VDC. There's an diyAudio member that sells an assembled converter that is a direct replacement to the CS8412/8414 (Thomas posted a link a few messages ago). I have bought 2 of them.

Hi Julien,

I am a bit confuse here. Thomas post #1770 saying his DIR9001 is a drop in replacement. But the one you received need a voltage regulator?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1371152#post1371152
Just wondering if you build yours or it was from Thomas?

Also, where did you get the CS8414 from? The stock DAC only come with CS8412.
Sam
 
SamL said:


Hi Julien,

I am a bit confuse here. Thomas post #1770 saying his DIR9001 is a drop in replacement. But the one you received need a voltage regulator?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1371152#post1371152
Just wondering if you build yours or it was from Thomas?

Also, where did you get the CS8414 from? The stock DAC only come with CS8412.
Sam


Sorry for the confusion. The DIR9001 by itself is not a direct drop in. The one I got comes in an adapter board that includes the regulator. So the adapter board with the DIR9001 is a direct replacement. I didn't notice that the one Thomas offers is different in layout of the ones I have, I wonder if it sounds different... I got mine from spencer.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110738

I took the CS8414 I have from Thomas' DAC v3 (the one before this one). But I think they're still available. They also need an adapter board since they only come in an SMD package.
 
Julien_M said:


Hello Naka,

The clock needs +5VDC. And if you have the SE version of the DAC, you should have 2 +5VDC outputs at the power supply that are not being used. I haven't gotten to it yet, but you should be able to isolate the power rails for the clock by modifying the PCB and feed it directly to one of the +5VDC outputs.

The DIR9001 is an input receiver and replaces the CS8412/8414. It is not a direct replacement. It needs an adaptor and voltage regulator to bring the voltage down to 3.3VDC. There's an diyAudio member that sells an assembled converter that is a direct replacement to the CS8412/8414 (Thomas posted a link a few messages ago). I have bought 2 of them. They work fine but I still have to do a few more listening sessions to determine its advantage over the other chips. In my first trials I preferred the CS8414 better than CS8412 and DIR9001 adapter. I felt the DIR9001 has a "harder" sound than the others and that the CS8412 give me too much listening fatigue. All these without the re-clock circuit enabled. I still prefer the sound of my DAC without re-clock.

Lastly, regarding the caps in the 4 op-amp I/V board. Not all caps can be removed. Only some that filter out the DC in the signal. You should be able to safely remove (replace with a jumper) C11 and C12. But you must measure for DC voltage in the output before connecting to your system, it should be next to nothing.
You might want to try to replace C7 and C8 with film caps or non-polar BlackGates. For C7 and C8 you should be ok if you keep the values between 5uF and 10uF. I'm using 4uF Auricaps I had and it works fine. You can even try to bypass these caps with low value Teflon caps. I might try that in the future...
That should bring you more resolution from your DAC.

Let us know how you like the sound after your tweaks...


Hello Julien,

Thank you for your advices. I will soon change the C7 and C8 .
C11 and C12 are already bypassed in my dac version.
I am waiting four opa 627bp and a dir9100.
Is it usefull to change other caps on the four opamp I/V or elsewhere?

Naka.
 
Julien_M said:
Here are the settings for the digital input/re-clock/oversampling board. The SE DAC can operate in 4 different modes. I've tested all these 4 settings with my SE DAC and they all worked. The default setting on mine was 4x OS + re-clock. When the re-clock circuit is ON only 16bit/44.1MHz sources work well as this is a fixed clock.

NOS (no re-clock):

J3: open
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


NOS + re-clock:

J3: open
J4: open
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all OFF
S7: all OFF
S8: all ON

S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS (no re-clock):

J3: short
J4: open
J6: open
J7: open

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF

S1: ON-OFF-ON-ON


4x OS + re-clock (default) :

J3: open
J4: short
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all ON
S7: all ON
S8: all OFF


S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON



Hello!

I am using the full balance one with 2 opamp at each channel.

Besides my default setting, I found that there is no sound with the setting provided by Julien_M

my default setting as following.

J3: open
J4: short
J6: short
J7: short

S3: all ON
S7: all OFF
S8: all OFF


S1: OFF-OFF-ON-ON

Would anybody tell me what are the settings for different modes?

Regards

Eric
 
hi friends,

so busy this weeks, very haevy work load for christmas event.

After christmas I had several days of holidays to compenste for my public holiday.

BTW,

Julien_M DIR9001 was not mine design. mine can directly replace to CS-8412 or 8414 of my DAC.

hi julien,

can U post your 9001, this was mine. I test OK & start to made already. My 9001 can directly drop & replace.

take a look of my 9001 is it same!



SamL ,

8414 or 8412-IS was same. in selling price 8412-IS was more stable than 8414. I compare to old CS-8412 & found 8412-Is was detail than OLD CS-8412. That I choose 8412-IS.
I also testing about the dir9001 they had advantage than 8414 or 8412 but it was depend on use love it or not!

take a look of my 9001.

thx

thomas

183.jpg
 
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