You pull the output from the tda1541 chip right.
The TC9237BN chip has negative and positive out put from both left and right. Does this board count for that.
Also I am splitting a kenwood DP-R5550 CD player this weekend. The TC9327BN chip is in my kenwood DP-M4550 which is a carousel type CD player, that carousel takes up too much toom inside to be able to run tubes inside it, and I dont want to run em outside. The 5550 is a cartridge style and may have a lot of extra room for tubes. Plus I have a remote for it.
I'll get back with what chip it has in a bit.
Thanks.
Srinath.
The TC9237BN chip has negative and positive out put from both left and right. Does this board count for that.
Also I am splitting a kenwood DP-R5550 CD player this weekend. The TC9327BN chip is in my kenwood DP-M4550 which is a carousel type CD player, that carousel takes up too much toom inside to be able to run tubes inside it, and I dont want to run em outside. The 5550 is a cartridge style and may have a lot of extra room for tubes. Plus I have a remote for it.
I'll get back with what chip it has in a bit.
Thanks.
Srinath.
You pull the output from the tda1541 chip right.
Correct.
The TC9237BN chip has negative and positive out put from both left and right. Does this board count for that.
Use only the positive output, like with the Buffalo II.
Oliver,
My tubeIzator work with 12ax7 without the switch or jumper, it sounds good, the pop was gone since adjusted the heater voltage to 6.3V.
Now, I just got the 6n6p, I replaced the 1k resistor at b+ with 50k resistor, the b+ voltage drop down to (from 220V) 120V as you recommended. Then I add a jumper at 6n2p side via and the middle via.
When powered up, It's not working. There is no glow on the tube even a tiny bit. Is this had something to do with the jumper that I added?
Thanks,
Joe
My tubeIzator work with 12ax7 without the switch or jumper, it sounds good, the pop was gone since adjusted the heater voltage to 6.3V.
Now, I just got the 6n6p, I replaced the 1k resistor at b+ with 50k resistor, the b+ voltage drop down to (from 220V) 120V as you recommended. Then I add a jumper at 6n2p side via and the middle via.
When powered up, It's not working. There is no glow on the tube even a tiny bit. Is this had something to do with the jumper that I added?
Thanks,
Joe
I made a few modification at the Tube-I-zator Module.
First i insert receptacle pins for all resistors in the tube stage.
So it´s easy to change the values without soldering if necessary.
Second i changed the Rk & R I/V resistors to my beloved TX2575.
It is really fascinating, what these resistors do to the sound.
The last thing for now are the output caps. I changed to Ampohm 2,2 µF polyester in oil, bypassed by the russian K72P-6 teflon.
Now it´s time to fine-tune the sound with the right output caps....
First i insert receptacle pins for all resistors in the tube stage.
So it´s easy to change the values without soldering if necessary.
Second i changed the Rk & R I/V resistors to my beloved TX2575.
It is really fascinating, what these resistors do to the sound.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The last thing for now are the output caps. I changed to Ampohm 2,2 µF polyester in oil, bypassed by the russian K72P-6 teflon.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now it´s time to fine-tune the sound with the right output caps....
Hi Oliver,
I made some measurements on my tubeIzator after I replaced the tube from 12ax7 to 6n6p with the jumper to 12ax7 side and mid via. Is there something wrong with these voltages?
Pin 1. (socket pin) no tube is 220V
pin 4 & 5 6.3V ea.
The rest of pins are 0V.
Here is the measured voltages with tube:
Pin 1. 75V
pin 2 & 3 38V ea.
pin 4 6.3V
pin5 0
pin 6 38V
pin 8. 0.7V
the rest of pins are 0V
I did not hook this to my amp as I'm afraid there is something wrong with this connections?
Thanks,
Joe
I made some measurements on my tubeIzator after I replaced the tube from 12ax7 to 6n6p with the jumper to 12ax7 side and mid via. Is there something wrong with these voltages?
Pin 1. (socket pin) no tube is 220V
pin 4 & 5 6.3V ea.
The rest of pins are 0V.
Here is the measured voltages with tube:
Pin 1. 75V
pin 2 & 3 38V ea.
pin 4 6.3V
pin5 0
pin 6 38V
pin 8. 0.7V
the rest of pins are 0V
I did not hook this to my amp as I'm afraid there is something wrong with this connections?
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Oliver,
You are correct that only pin4 should read 6.3V. I re-measured it without the tube and with the jumper on mid via and 12ax7 via, only pin1 and pin4 got the voltage reading.
But after I plugged the tube, I got similar readings as my previous post.
Pin1 75V
Pin2 38V
Pin3 38V
Pin4 6.3V
Pin6 38V
Pin8 0.7V
all the rest of the pins measured 0V.
Do you mean that when the tube is plug in, that only pin 4 and pin 1 should have the voltage reading?
Remember that the unit works properly with the 12ax7, the only changes that I made was replaced the resistor for B+ voltage and jumper for the switch.
Thanks,
Joe
You are correct that only pin4 should read 6.3V. I re-measured it without the tube and with the jumper on mid via and 12ax7 via, only pin1 and pin4 got the voltage reading.
But after I plugged the tube, I got similar readings as my previous post.
Pin1 75V
Pin2 38V
Pin3 38V
Pin4 6.3V
Pin6 38V
Pin8 0.7V
all the rest of the pins measured 0V.
Do you mean that when the tube is plug in, that only pin 4 and pin 1 should have the voltage reading?
Remember that the unit works properly with the 12ax7, the only changes that I made was replaced the resistor for B+ voltage and jumper for the switch.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
because the 6H6P has a lot more anode current (≈ 28mA) on each triode (6N2P ≈ 2,3mA) there could be a small voltage drop of B+ but it´s a bit to much.
What is the input voltage of the anode supply?
So you should adjust the two 1K0 resistors in the anode power supply to get the B+ to ≈120V.
The rest of the voltages are ok.
Best,
Oliver
because the 6H6P has a lot more anode current (≈ 28mA) on each triode (6N2P ≈ 2,3mA) there could be a small voltage drop of B+ but it´s a bit to much.
What is the input voltage of the anode supply?
So you should adjust the two 1K0 resistors in the anode power supply to get the B+ to ≈120V.
The rest of the voltages are ok.
Best,
Oliver
Hi Oliver,
I am collecting the last parts for my board, but I am a little confused about the switch.
Is it a on/off switch or an on-on switch (on-none-on) ??
https://www1.elfa.se/elfa3~no_no/default.jsp?item=35-230-20 will this one work ?
I am collecting the last parts for my board, but I am a little confused about the switch.
Is it a on/off switch or an on-on switch (on-none-on) ??
https://www1.elfa.se/elfa3~no_no/default.jsp?item=35-230-20 will this one work ?
What is the input voltage of the anode supply?
So you should adjust the two 1K0 resistors in the anode power supply to get the B+ to ≈120V.
Hi Oliver,
The input voltage anode supply is 220V. I replaced the original 1k resistors with 50k. I will try a lower value resistor later.
Thanks,
Joe
Is the heatsink for the (LD1085v) regulator on Tube-I-zator suppose to be very hot?
When I use 12AX7 tube I can touch the top portion of the heat sink for a few seconds, while if I use the 6n6p (b+V =120V) it's VERY hot, I can't touch the heat sink for more than a second, is this normal?
Thanks,
Joe
When I use 12AX7 tube I can touch the top portion of the heat sink for a few seconds, while if I use the 6n6p (b+V =120V) it's VERY hot, I can't touch the heat sink for more than a second, is this normal?
Thanks,
Joe
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