sarrisk said:
Hi Sarrisk
yes its nice. superb stuff. highly recommended. especially with good tubes such as: telefunken(very good background), mullard (a bit lay back but nice), western electric (superb vocal).
i buy this device off ebay from china. build quality is ok. but low end component. totally different after changing few resistors and putting in nice caps.
Holy thread revival
Does anyone know that part. It is a brother I think!
It is called Yaqin CD-1 with one 6N1! The vendor writes somewhere at ebay that it is much better than CD-2 (SNR 60dB vs. 90 dB
).
Does anyone know that part. It is a brother I think!
It is called Yaqin CD-1 with one 6N1! The vendor writes somewhere at ebay that it is much better than CD-2 (SNR 60dB vs. 90 dB
).An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
yaqin tube buffer 6J1
I have the intention to buy the yaqin 6j1 and use it between my Linn unidisc sc and linn 5125 power-amp. I am thinking about replacing the stock tubes with JAN 5654W's. I am not very handy at DIY, so i hope to find someone in Holland to help me with some further mods. Would a modded yaqin blend well with this Linn gear?( I have used in my linn set-up a modded Jolida jd100S and this was a beautiful match) Does anybody have some suggestions regarding this project, i would be very pleased hearing them..
friendly greetings oedaya
Linn Unidisc sc
linn 5125 power amp
ixos 102 interconnect
QED Genesis bi-wire loudspeaker cable
I have the intention to buy the yaqin 6j1 and use it between my Linn unidisc sc and linn 5125 power-amp. I am thinking about replacing the stock tubes with JAN 5654W's. I am not very handy at DIY, so i hope to find someone in Holland to help me with some further mods. Would a modded yaqin blend well with this Linn gear?( I have used in my linn set-up a modded Jolida jd100S and this was a beautiful match) Does anybody have some suggestions regarding this project, i would be very pleased hearing them..
friendly greetings oedaya
Linn Unidisc sc
linn 5125 power amp
ixos 102 interconnect
QED Genesis bi-wire loudspeaker cable
After trying all sorts of valves I reckon that the Russian 6ZH1P-EV are the best. They have a crystal clear top end that makes others sound dull. Possibly not a good choice in a bright system.
I borrowed a valve tester a few weeks ago and tested a bunch of different EF95. The 6ZH1P-EV all measured over between 100 and 107 - I tested about 10. These valves scored higher and were way closer matched than anything else I tried.
When I bought mine you could buy them from the Ukraine and Lithuania on Ebay for less than £1 each.
They also have a cool missile logo on both the box and the valve ;-)
I borrowed a valve tester a few weeks ago and tested a bunch of different EF95. The 6ZH1P-EV all measured over between 100 and 107 - I tested about 10. These valves scored higher and were way closer matched than anything else I tried.
When I bought mine you could buy them from the Ukraine and Lithuania on Ebay for less than £1 each.
They also have a cool missile logo on both the box and the valve ;-)
I got a Yaqin CD 2 from Destiny Audio Germany on Wednesday with the original Shuguang tubes. After burning in 24h I did some listening.
The first order was: CDP > Passive Pre (Lightspeed) > Buffer > Power amp
it was inferior to second order: CDP > Buffer > Passive Pre > Power amp
Without buffer sound is better. More details, more air, more headroom. I just ordered some CV4010/M8100 matched Mullard NOS tubes. I hope it will be better without modifications of the caps because of warranty issues. Ohterwise the device goes back to the vendor because of the 2 week return policy.
The first order was: CDP > Passive Pre (Lightspeed) > Buffer > Power amp
it was inferior to second order: CDP > Buffer > Passive Pre > Power amp
Without buffer sound is better. More details, more air, more headroom. I just ordered some CV4010/M8100 matched Mullard NOS tubes. I hope it will be better without modifications of the caps because of warranty issues. Ohterwise the device goes back to the vendor because of the 2 week return policy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hi Tolu
anything more complicated in the signal chain is not good. but this buffer use to help in impedance mismatched. if your impedance is good. then putting this buffer is worsen the signal as the inside components is of low quality IMHO.
if you has impedance mismatched between the cdp and linestage or amp. then this buffer is very good option as it has very high input impedance and very low output impedance. just my 2c.
good luck
erwin
anything more complicated in the signal chain is not good. but this buffer use to help in impedance mismatched. if your impedance is good. then putting this buffer is worsen the signal as the inside components is of low quality IMHO.
if you has impedance mismatched between the cdp and linestage or amp. then this buffer is very good option as it has very high input impedance and very low output impedance. just my 2c.
good luck
erwin
Hi Erwin
I don't have impedance mismatch. I am using a passive preamp and so I considerd to optimize impedance with the buffer but with my configuration I don't need a buffer as it seems!
What disappointed me most was the lack of "tubyness" of the sound. There was no shimmer and wider stage as I expected from a tube device. Perhaps the chinese tubes are too neutral! Or the caps are too bad. I don't know!
I don't have impedance mismatch. I am using a passive preamp and so I considerd to optimize impedance with the buffer but with my configuration I don't need a buffer as it seems!
What disappointed me most was the lack of "tubyness" of the sound. There was no shimmer and wider stage as I expected from a tube device. Perhaps the chinese tubes are too neutral! Or the caps are too bad. I don't know!
hi Tolu
i am not saying this buffer is good or bad. as i used to like it very much as it fix the impedance mismatched. my unit is heavily modified and it does make the whole systems sound better. Then after preamp change. i do not use it anymore. as it added pair of interconnect, PC etc. added complexity which i prefer KISS.
i agree that the chinese tubes is not as good as other, such as Russian 6ZH1P-EV (sharpi31's suggestion) which i havent tried. but i find either rca or tungsol is better than the chinese.
only keep it if you see the benefits. i bought this with no return from ebay.
erwin
i am not saying this buffer is good or bad. as i used to like it very much as it fix the impedance mismatched. my unit is heavily modified and it does make the whole systems sound better. Then after preamp change. i do not use it anymore. as it added pair of interconnect, PC etc. added complexity which i prefer KISS.
i agree that the chinese tubes is not as good as other, such as Russian 6ZH1P-EV (sharpi31's suggestion) which i havent tried. but i find either rca or tungsol is better than the chinese.
only keep it if you see the benefits. i bought this with no return from ebay.
erwin
yep the mullard is smoother and more lay back. let them play for at least 30-40hrs. i might smooth down more.
changing cap for sure would improve more. maybe you can try bypass 1st. as space is limited there. get some polypropylene or polystyrene or mica. or you can change to better caps but keep an eye on the rated voltage. or just measure the dc before the output cap to ground and you should know the voltage there.
after that you could try the resistor lol
hope this helps.
changing cap for sure would improve more. maybe you can try bypass 1st. as space is limited there. get some polypropylene or polystyrene or mica. or you can change to better caps but keep an eye on the rated voltage. or just measure the dc before the output cap to ground and you should know the voltage there.
after that you could try the resistor lol
hope this helps.
would this fit in the available space for output cap?
It's size is 25x43mm !
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's size is 25x43mm !
Hi everyone and happy new year!
Personally I believe that the best performance of a buffer could be sounded if you use it straight after the DAC chip output. Of course this requires a good knowledge of electronics but is the only way to feel the difference if there is any!!!!! I have done it using a Chinese bare circuit board which I bought from Ebay and I have added my own choice parts.The "operation" took place onto my Technics SL-PG4 which is a low cost cd player and the results were unexpected! 50% better sound with a 10% attenuation in output but who cares.
the only thing you need is the chip schematic diagram and experience!
I have tried the tube buffer in two stages.
One after the chip and another after the cd output(rca)
So I came to the conclusion that the analog stage of my cd uses so cheap and bad quality OP amps to edit the given analog signal from the DAC chip that cannot get much better using the buffer at the output.
Think that I was ready to send that cdplayer to the recycle bin of my neighborhood!! I have put takman 5% film resistors, Solen and Black gate capacitors and Phillips NOS 6922 tubes. The total cost of this project plus the transformer was 120$.The kit name is LS29 and you can find it with or without parts on Ebay.
Personally I believe that the best performance of a buffer could be sounded if you use it straight after the DAC chip output. Of course this requires a good knowledge of electronics but is the only way to feel the difference if there is any!!!!! I have done it using a Chinese bare circuit board which I bought from Ebay and I have added my own choice parts.The "operation" took place onto my Technics SL-PG4 which is a low cost cd player and the results were unexpected! 50% better sound with a 10% attenuation in output but who cares.
the only thing you need is the chip schematic diagram and experience!
I have tried the tube buffer in two stages.
One after the chip and another after the cd output(rca)
So I came to the conclusion that the analog stage of my cd uses so cheap and bad quality OP amps to edit the given analog signal from the DAC chip that cannot get much better using the buffer at the output.
Think that I was ready to send that cdplayer to the recycle bin of my neighborhood!! I have put takman 5% film resistors, Solen and Black gate capacitors and Phillips NOS 6922 tubes. The total cost of this project plus the transformer was 120$.The kit name is LS29 and you can find it with or without parts on Ebay.
Hi metanastis,
I bought the same PCB and gave it a go - before I saw your post.
Am using a off the wall PSU rated at 12V and 500mA output.
Works but sounds terrible. I have a similar, if not earlier board inside my MF Tubalog which works well. Only reason I decided to try the LS29.
Hence I did a component level voltage reading and am surprised components rated at 35V. My measurements show no where near that value. Hence I am wondering what I could have done wrong.
Thank you for your time and assistance in the matter!
I bought the same PCB and gave it a go - before I saw your post.
Am using a off the wall PSU rated at 12V and 500mA output.
Works but sounds terrible. I have a similar, if not earlier board inside my MF Tubalog which works well. Only reason I decided to try the LS29.
Hence I did a component level voltage reading and am surprised components rated at 35V. My measurements show no where near that value. Hence I am wondering what I could have done wrong.
Thank you for your time and assistance in the matter!
Attachments
From your description I could not understand what you have done exactly!
What kind of parts have you used? Or you have bought it ready as a kit?
Please explain all the actions you have done so that i can understand where exactly is the problem.
The circuit is supplied with 12volts Ac and after the rectification and filtering the voltage doubles its value through the transistors for the tube plate voltage.If you don't use good parts ,cables and a good tube what can you expect?Please try to define me the construction .
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