Does anyone know how high signal level the BLenhance preamp can output?
I assume because it runs on 5V, probably less than that.
Anyway I'm planning to put an isolation transformer on the bass channel because I still have some noise issues, and the one I'm looking at (TY-250p) is rated for 4.2Vrms 7mA 20mW.
I assume because it runs on 5V, probably less than that.
Anyway I'm planning to put an isolation transformer on the bass channel because I still have some noise issues, and the one I'm looking at (TY-250p) is rated for 4.2Vrms 7mA 20mW.
Murata and other brands make nice PCB isolated DCDC converters so that you can take the 12v(or whatever powers your main amp) and make 5vdc for the BT circuit. There is a 5kv isolation transformer in the DCDC. This usually stops ground loop noise.
I have a 36V battery for the power amps and a 5V battery for the BLenhance.
Since it is 100% battery powered the DC supply signals should be clean.
My issue occurs only when I connect two power amps to the BLenhance.
If I connect only the bass channel amp, all is fine, no noise at all.
If I connect only the L/R channel amp, all is fine, no noise at all.
When I connect them both, I hear significant noise in both the bass and L/R channels.
If I unhook the ground lead on the bass channel input, the noise disappears from the L/R channel but instead gets stronger in the bass channel.
If I unhook the ground lead on the L/R channel input, the noise disappears from the bass channel but instead gets stronger in the L/R channel.
Is this consistent with a ground loop?
All wires are very short, less than 10cm... and the longest possible ground loop would be less than 30cm.
Since it is 100% battery powered the DC supply signals should be clean.
My issue occurs only when I connect two power amps to the BLenhance.
If I connect only the bass channel amp, all is fine, no noise at all.
If I connect only the L/R channel amp, all is fine, no noise at all.
When I connect them both, I hear significant noise in both the bass and L/R channels.
If I unhook the ground lead on the bass channel input, the noise disappears from the L/R channel but instead gets stronger in the bass channel.
If I unhook the ground lead on the L/R channel input, the noise disappears from the bass channel but instead gets stronger in the L/R channel.
Is this consistent with a ground loop?
All wires are very short, less than 10cm... and the longest possible ground loop would be less than 30cm.
Yes, that’s a ground loop when you connect two channels and there is noise that was otherwise not there before. BT is very sensitive to ground loop noise and usually an isolator is needed in between their supplies.
How can I tune the NVArcher DSP while using the aux input?
I recently bought the NVArcher DSP. I wired everything up and tested the functions and overall it is working. I can either connect it via USB to my PC and play music from there or if I disconnect it from the PC I can use the analog / aux input. However, when I use the aux input and connect the USB to the PC (to adjust the DSP settings) it always automatically switches to USB as input. I have not found a way to tune it over USB while using the aux inputs. What am I missing here? I obviously need to hear the changes from the analog input while adjusting the DSP settings.
I recently bought the NVArcher DSP. I wired everything up and tested the functions and overall it is working. I can either connect it via USB to my PC and play music from there or if I disconnect it from the PC I can use the analog / aux input. However, when I use the aux input and connect the USB to the PC (to adjust the DSP settings) it always automatically switches to USB as input. I have not found a way to tune it over USB while using the aux inputs. What am I missing here? I obviously need to hear the changes from the analog input while adjusting the DSP settings.
Nevermind, I found the solution. Previously I just used a small jumper cable to bridge ground to the ⏹︎ pin. By doing so I guess I held the signal for too long, so it was always recognised as a long press. After soldering a button to these pins, I can reliably switch the modes.
Hi!
Maybe this is not right place for my question,but does anyone know if this chip a programmer for sale?
or a way to read the chip dump BP1048B2?
Maybe this is not right place for my question,but does anyone know if this chip a programmer for sale?
or a way to read the chip dump BP1048B2?
I bought one of these boards that came with a chinese copy of the Workbench software and was having a hard time figuring it out. Here's hoping the english version provided above will let me get my Eiffelton EX401 4.1 amp/dsp up and running.
Seen in local Grocery Outlet; I didnt pick up a pair, but makes you wonder if they work in Stereo as depicted.
So, using an Eiffelton EX401 board and that ACPWorkbench software I found that controlling the EQ settings on the board to be incredibly time consuming since it takes so long to make each change and give it a listen. And I don't really have much experience with this, so it was taking a whole lot of trial and error to figure out how to make it sound right.
I found a much easier solution for tuning!
A (free for 30 days, then reduced features or costs money) android app called Poweramp Equalizer. It gives you a very easy to adjust 10 band equalizer that made the trial and error process a whole lot faster for getting things to sound right.
Once I got it dialed in in that app, I just manually copied my settings into ACPWorkbench.
I still have some questions though, mainly - is there any way to adjust the bass channel so that it reduces bass at high volume? I'm finding that to have the bass set to where my ears are happy at low/moderate volumes, it's hitting the protection feature of the amp when things are cranked.
And is there maybe an easier way to tune things? I'm still not sure I have the EQ settings/crossover frequencies correct. Maybe I should make a new thread about that.
I found a much easier solution for tuning!
A (free for 30 days, then reduced features or costs money) android app called Poweramp Equalizer. It gives you a very easy to adjust 10 band equalizer that made the trial and error process a whole lot faster for getting things to sound right.
Once I got it dialed in in that app, I just manually copied my settings into ACPWorkbench.
I still have some questions though, mainly - is there any way to adjust the bass channel so that it reduces bass at high volume? I'm finding that to have the bass set to where my ears are happy at low/moderate volumes, it's hitting the protection feature of the amp when things are cranked.
And is there maybe an easier way to tune things? I'm still not sure I have the EQ settings/crossover frequencies correct. Maybe I should make a new thread about that.
Why not play pink noise through this system, measure the results using a mic? Most any mic is going to be flat at least where the crossover is; i.e. the mic in your phone, where such a fractional-octave band analyzer could reside.
I did such measurements with an iPhone over various speakers I had on hand and there were differences between them all. One speaker I particularly liked, a JBL HLS series, appeared "flatter" in the middle of the displayed spectrum. Whether that's a coincidence, I dont know.
Imagine doing one shot at eq, adjusting in real time to get a flat spectrum, then seeing if your ears like it? Conversely, adjusting EQ to your ears preference, then seeing what spectrum shows up? Should be a matter of downloading a pink noise audio file from the web that your system can play, downloading a audio analyzer app to your phone.
Shoot, I remember when I was in college, a fellow student telling me "I want to work on the hardware FFT" some prof was attempting. These days that's just a minute download, maybe free for 30 days.
I've no idea how to level down just the bass, as you increase volume - unless your digital amplifier has that specific feature. Some of the TI ones do.
Not just wireless beer, True wireless beer. In stereo. I guess you'd call that a two-fisted drinker ;')
1st question: ACPWorkbench has a built-in compressor ("music DRC"). Many seem to be happy with the stock settings.
2nd: Maybe try following this video. It's in German but the owner kindly made English subtitles for it. He starts out measuring the midbass and treble (he's building a mono speaker), EQ, match level and set the crossover point in REW which he then applies in ACPWorkbench. Finally, he measures again to check the results and correct any anomalies in the response.
I bought the bluetooth DSP BLenchance 2.1, when I save my configuration the red light does not flash twice, but if it is saved for several minutes/hours, after that period of time it returns to a completely random configuration
Does anyone know what my problem could be?
Does anyone know what my problem could be?
I have not seen any time-based loss/degradation of data on my device, but remember that pressing the buttons (e.g. shorting + to ground) in certain ways would make it (sometimes) lose the configuration. I think it was more likely to happen with long press than short press.
There may also be some bugs related to the ACP workbench, I suggest only using it while programming, not as an EQ that you fiddle with on a daily basis.
On one occasion my device also seemed to revert to default config simply by connecting/disconnecting the USB cable.
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I was already able to solve this problem, do you know any way to eliminate the "digital noise" from this board?
I've thought about a faraday cage, but I don't think that would work.
I've thought about a faraday cage, but I don't think that would work.
Yes - if you are referring to the ground loop noise that sounds a bit like digital chatter.
First try to power the amplifier and DSP board with batteries.
If it helps, you may be able to solve your problem by using different AC/DC adapters.
However, if it does not help, connect audio isolation transformers between the amplifier and the dsp board.
One for each channel, so you need up to 3 of them. I used the TY-250p.
http://catalog.triadmagnetics.com/asset/ty-250p.pdf
After connecting them, my system is dead silent.
For me it was sufficient to put 2 transformers, one on the left and one on the right channel.
I could instead have put a single transformer on the bass channel, but then you lose 3db of sound level, and I wanted my system to have a lot of bass headroom.
My sound system is class AB type and I am using a small mixer to increase the input volume, is there no other way to suppress this sound?
It should be noted that this is my first time using a DSP.
Sorry, if you have an AC powered class AB amp that cannot be run on batteries, the only suggestion I can think of is to install the isolation transformers.
There are also ready-made "ground loop isolators" that you can buy, but probably more expensive than building your own.
https://www.amazon.com/Line-Level-Channel-Ground-Isolator/dp/B00UW5YSCY
There are also ready-made "ground loop isolators" that you can buy, but probably more expensive than building your own.
https://www.amazon.com/Line-Level-Channel-Ground-Isolator/dp/B00UW5YSCY