My favorite TPA3116 board is red 2x100W - don't need much upgrades and work with any brick power supply 12V-24V even cheap for LED strips.
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1NfKbOVXXXXaXapXXq6xXFXXX2/XH-M190-TDA3116D2-High-Power-Digital-font-b-Amplifier-b-font-font-b-Board-b-font.jpg
Others need at least gain tweaking and master-slave checking. There is a very important table in TI documentation for gain settings. I use the lowest gain for better noise levels. If master-slave is not set correctly you will end up with very noisy amp.
TPA325X amps need a serious power supply - I use Antek toroidal transformers. They are a bit bigger than others but have shielding layer and cheaper. Properly grounded shielding reduce a lot of noise.
As far as full range speakers - I tried famous Pioneer B20FU20-51FW and Dayton PS180-8. Not very impressive without super twitters and sub woofers. So it is basically mid range and for the mid range I prefer to use BMRs.
2x100 watt - is that 1% og 10% dist and is it 4 ohm or 8 ohm
In other words is it a single chip in BTL og dual chip in PBTL?
Dual chip in PBTL and if you want 0.02% I wouldn't use it in more than 2x10W applications.
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I'm 57 and I need 0.01% and 48kHz bandwidth0,1% is fine for me. I'm 46 years old
If your speakers can do 10% at 100W than you have 1% at 1W ...
If your source 24/96 FLAC than bandwidth 48kHz.
Anything more is a waste of disk space. Anything less - you will not be able to tell the difference between Stradivari violin and Walmart violin.
I'm 57 and I need 0.01% and 48kHz bandwidth
If your speakers can do 10% at 100W than you have 1% at 1W ...
If your source 24/96 FLAC than bandwidth 48kHz.
Anything more is a waste of disk space. Anything less - you will not be able to tell the difference between Stradivari violin and Walmart violin.
My source is either Beogram 8000 or 16 bit 44.1 khz, and I can still hear the difference. I have also tested numerous microphones on non highend equipment. And it was still quite easy to tell the difference.
Nope...hard to tell wich chip sounds best...I have two 3255 amps sounding fine and I have several 3116 amps sounding not worse than 3255...
3116 on pure battery power, simple boards with less components...
Good thing is...I can swap whenever I want...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This one is giving me the most fun...
You maybe on the right path imho. Specs of THD less than <0.1% can be measured, but not heard. Our hearing capabilties are restricted and degrade following your 20th anniversary.
Reducing THD furthermore is a technical sport, just for fun.
I do this as well. But it is irrelavant for the audible sound quality.
Define ‘better’...
Specs do not say much about sound...
I get my kick out of sound...
And if you really want to know...there is only one way...try it...
You can measure many things
THD
IMD
Frequency responce
load dependency
Slew rate
PSRR
Dampening factor
And the fun thing is, that if you try to "better" in one area, then you often make it "worse" in another area. So actually measurements does say everything, but it's very hard to translate what is also the best compromise in terms of sound quality.
My experience is that any well constructed amplifier sounds good, regardles of class. But different classes and topologies might sound a bit different. I can't tell what is most correct in terms of hifi, so I have to rely (in the end) on my ears. Is that true hifi - maybe not. But we should still persue to understand the measurements, so we can eliminate much og the guess on the road
THD
IMD
Frequency responce
load dependency
Slew rate
PSRR
Dampening factor
And the fun thing is, that if you try to "better" in one area, then you often make it "worse" in another area. So actually measurements does say everything, but it's very hard to translate what is also the best compromise in terms of sound quality.
My experience is that any well constructed amplifier sounds good, regardles of class. But different classes and topologies might sound a bit different. I can't tell what is most correct in terms of hifi, so I have to rely (in the end) on my ears. Is that true hifi - maybe not. But we should still persue to understand the measurements, so we can eliminate much og the guess on the road