If someone knows how to set gain lower on this board please write.
See http://www.ti.com/product/TPA3116D2/datasheet/detailed-description#SLOS7085962, section 7.3.1.
If I am interpreting your board photo in post #10245 correctly, the gain setting resistors are 100k and 47k, a combination which does not exist in the datasheet. If there were actually 39k resistors in the positions so marked on the board, it would be configured for 32db gain, but the assembler put "473" resistors there. You might try removing the 473s and putting 20k resistors in their place, to give you 26 dB gain. Most of the guys I have seen complaining about hiss etc. with these TPA3116D2 boards seem happier with lower gain settings.
I would highly recommend waiting for someone to confirm the above before you make any actual changes.
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PBTL mod
I just ordered a YJ blue/black clone board. I want to run it as a mono board, hence I need to make a PBTL mod. I found the following info in the wiki:
So in this tutorial, there seem to be no need to de-solder nor remove anything. Is it right? Because somewhere else on this forum I saw a PBTL mode which required some components to be removed. I can remove things from the board, but I'd rather leave it populated in case I want to revert to stereo mode later on.
I just ordered a YJ blue/black clone board. I want to run it as a mono board, hence I need to make a PBTL mod. I found the following info in the wiki:
Board modification to run PBTL mode as described by the TI datasheet would be useful.
PBTL (Mono) Mode
For the Black YJ board the following modifications are required:
- solder a three way jumper on the bottom of the board, shorting C10 and connected to the output side of C33
- jumper the ROUT terminals
- jumper the LOUT terminals
For the input use RIN and connect the speaker between ROUT and LOUT.
So in this tutorial, there seem to be no need to de-solder nor remove anything. Is it right? Because somewhere else on this forum I saw a PBTL mode which required some components to be removed. I can remove things from the board, but I'd rather leave it populated in case I want to revert to stereo mode later on.
You could put a a few switches in there instead of removing the parts. I have not tested this yet; just ordered the red Sanwu 7498e and blue Feixiang m-diy-7498E-V2 boards and a few 2 pole/4 pin DPST switches.I just ordered a YJ blue/black clone board. I want to run it as a mono board, hence I need to make a PBTL mod. I found the following info in the wiki:
So in this tutorial, there seem to be no need to de-solder nor remove anything. Is it right? Because somewhere else on this forum I saw a PBTL mode which required some components to be removed. I can remove things from the board, but I'd rather leave it populated in case I want to revert to stereo mode later on.
// Going to use the switches also to toggle between balanced and unbalanced inputs on the Feixang board.
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Sorry about commenting with 7498e info; I was reading the 7498e thread at the same time and mixed up.... but same principle will work on tpa3116 or any other board: you can use a switch instead of removing components.
Thanks Think, it's good to know.
But my questions was also to know if there is a need or not to remove (or to switch/bypass) some components for the YJ blue/black board.
But my questions was also to know if there is a need or not to remove (or to switch/bypass) some components for the YJ blue/black board.
Hi,
Which is the best 2.1 pcb board, whit separate connection for subwoofer and the satellites? If only a few modifications are needed, it is still acceptable.
I would like to use my crossover and equalizer.
Which is the best 2.1 pcb board, whit separate connection for subwoofer and the satellites? If only a few modifications are needed, it is still acceptable.
I would like to use my crossover and equalizer.
That is not going to work as 2.1 boards have only left and right inputs and a crossover onboard.Hi,
Which is the best 2.1 pcb board, whit separate connection for subwoofer and the satellites? If only a few modifications are needed, it is still acceptable.
I would like to use my crossover and equalizer.
You can use 2 separate amps; 1 for left&right and 1 for your sub(s).
Glad you sorted out the noise issue.
Check out my demo on Youtube, using a 2.1 version of this chip, just upgraded the opamps to OPA627BP.
YouTube
The amp in the Youtube demo: Any performance issues? I'e seen similar versions with a selectable HP for the L-R speakers. Is that a "jumper" on your amp?
The amp in the Youtube demo: Any performance issues? I'e seen similar versions with a selectable HP for the L-R speakers. Is that a "jumper" on your amp?
No issues that I am aware of. Been using it for quite a few weeks.
Bought it off Ebay, but cant find it anymore. It is this one on Aliexpress:
GHXAMP TPA3116 2.1 Subwoofer Amplificateur Bord Voiture Numerique Audio Amplificateurs 2X50 W + 100 W TPA3116D2 Home Basse pour Subwoofer Haut Parleur dans Amplificateur de Electronique sur AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
This one does not have a switch, its all done with pots and opamps. I do have the version with a switch as well, which is a diferent design altogether, also have 5 pots, but have not hooked it up yet. It is the one where the pots are all ‘grounded’ together. Check that one out here on Ebay: TPA3116 2.1 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super BASS Speaker | eBay
I think that switch switch the Sub-out to low-pass or full-range.
I will try that one too some time, but I was more intrigued by the one with the dip-8 sockets for playing with the op-amps.
BTW, the one I’m using in the video runs fine on 5V, fitted with suitable 5V capable op-amps. By current setup runs best at 18V flat, but still very decent down to around 12V. Above 19V it does generate more heat than I like and obviously waste energy on this heat.
Fun project (the boombox in the video). I’m very happy with the results. It sounds awesome and has an excellent sounds stage too with those BMR drivers. I still need to finish it, upgrade it with decent hi-end wiring, paint, etc.
Cheers, Waldman.
No issues that I am aware of. Been using it for quite a few weeks.
Bought it off Ebay, but cant find it anymore. It is this one on Aliexpress:
GHXAMP TPA3116 2.1 Subwoofer Amplificateur Bord Voiture Numerique Audio Amplificateurs 2X50 W + 100 W TPA3116D2 Home Basse pour Subwoofer Haut Parleur dans Amplificateur de Electronique sur AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
This one does not have a switch, its all done with pots and opamps. I do have the version with a switch as well, which is a diferent design altogether, also have 5 pots, but have not hooked it up yet. It is the one where the pots are all ‘grounded’ together. Check that one out here on Ebay: TPA3116 2.1 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super BASS Speaker | eBay
I think that switch switch the Sub-out to low-pass or full-range.
I will try that one too some time, but I was more intrigued by the one with the dip-8 sockets for playing with the op-amps.
BTW, the one I’m using in the video runs fine on 5V, fitted with suitable 5V capable op-amps. By current setup runs best at 18V flat, but still very decent down to around 12V. Above 19V it does generate more heat than I like and obviously waste energy on this heat.
Fun project (the boombox in the video). I’m very happy with the results. It sounds awesome and has an excellent sounds stage too with those BMR drivers. I still need to finish it, upgrade it with decent hi-end wiring, paint, etc.
Cheers, Waldman.
Many thanks for the info ...
That is not going to work as 2.1 boards have only left and right inputs and a crossover onboard.
You can use 2 separate amps; 1 for left&right and 1 for your sub(s).
Ok, It will not be a problem that these ICs will not be synchronized?
No issues that I am aware of. Been using it for quite a few weeks.
Bought it off Ebay, but cant find it anymore. It is this one on Aliexpress:
GHXAMP TPA3116 2.1 Subwoofer Amplificateur Bord Voiture Numerique Audio Amplificateurs 2X50 W + 100 W TPA3116D2 Home Basse pour Subwoofer Haut Parleur dans Amplificateur de Electronique sur AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
This one does not have a switch, its all done with pots and opamps. I do have the version with a switch as well, which is a diferent design altogether, also have 5 pots, but have not hooked it up yet. It is the one where the pots are all ‘grounded’ together. Check that one out here on Ebay: TPA3116 2.1 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital HIFI 12-24V Super BASS Speaker | eBay
I think that switch switch the Sub-out to low-pass or full-range.
I will try that one too some time, but I was more intrigued by the one with the dip-8 sockets for playing with the op-amps.
BTW, the one I’m using in the video runs fine on 5V, fitted with suitable 5V capable op-amps. By current setup runs best at 18V flat, but still very decent down to around 12V. Above 19V it does generate more heat than I like and obviously waste energy on this heat.
Fun project (the boombox in the video). I’m very happy with the results. It sounds awesome and has an excellent sounds stage too with those BMR drivers. I still need to finish it, upgrade it with decent hi-end wiring, paint, etc.
Cheers, Waldman.
Which one of the those amp boards you have you think is better?
TPA3116 2.1 board
In found this 2.1 board that looks nice to me: good inductors and capacitors I think. I consider to use two of these board for a 3 way active system (one board per side). With this appliance there is a big difference between left and right channel (tweeter and woofer). Is this a problem for this kind of amplifier? Besides I am uncertain about the input. This is a jack for three channels?
In found this 2.1 board that looks nice to me: good inductors and capacitors I think. I consider to use two of these board for a 3 way active system (one board per side). With this appliance there is a big difference between left and right channel (tweeter and woofer). Is this a problem for this kind of amplifier? Besides I am uncertain about the input. This is a jack for three channels?
Attachments
In found this 2.1 board that looks nice to me: good inductors and capacitors I think. I consider to use two of these board for a 3 way active system (one board per side). With this appliance there is a big difference between left and right channel (tweeter and woofer). Is this a problem for this kind of amplifier? Besides I am uncertain about the input. This is a jack for three channels?
2.1 amplifiers usually have 2 full range channels (left and right) and one low pass channel, so it probably won't work well in your project. The LPF might be adjustable but I'm guessing you don't need it if you have separate cross-overs. And the input is basic 2 channel stereo input, no magic there.
2.1 amplifiers usually have 2 full range channels (left and right) and one low pass channel, so it probably won't work well in your project. The LPF might be adjustable but I'm guessing you don't need it if you have separate cross-overs. And the input is basic 2 channel stereo input, no magic there.
I'm not sure about this. New TPA3116 2.1 Digital Amplifier Board Class D 3 Channel DC18V 24V 2*50W+100W Free Shipping 12003203 in New TPA3116 2.1 Digital Amplifier Board Class D 3 Channel DC18V-24V 2*50W+100W Free Shipping 12003203 van Versterker op AliExpress.com | Alibaba Groep
Potentiometer Functions:
Bass Volume
Left&Right Channel Volume
Main Volume
I don't read anything about a bass filter in the specifications. But I asked the supplier.
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