TPA3116D2 Amp

You guys are talking about 10arms inductors which would be pretty much for almost any home application.
My sub is 4r and about 87db.
50W out of a 24V smps is more than enough for my neighbours.
For my outdoor party machinery it is definitly not enough.
Maybe blackbird84 should tell us what the desired application is and which woofer and ps she/he is going to use.
 
Thank you all for responses.
My sub is a dayton DVC 10", 4 Ohm.
50 clean Watts are more than enough for me. I can get differential output from my crossover if that would be a big +.

The question still remains though, wich one should I get?

I will add this one to the list too, thanks Buehgemeiste

tpa3118 pbtl mono digitalverstrker bord 1x60w 12v 24v endstufe in tpa3118 pbtl mono digitalverstrker bord 1x60w 12v 24v endstufemono 50w digitalverstrker bordVerstrker chip: tpa3118Ve aus Verstrker auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
 
differential inputs won't give you much of an advantage, imo.
the biggest difference between the 3116 i have heard so far was their performance around the higher frequencies.
so i guess that they are all very similar for a sub.
supply caps and inductor size are what you should look for.
maybe you should consider to swap them, because especially the caps are crap usually.

another option for you may be the TDA7498E.
i've spotted the first mono boards with this chip recently.
 
Texas Instuments talks about 7.5A for BTL and 15A for PBTL. Inductor datasheet talk about A at which point inductance loss is already 15% or 30%. So in reality the inductors aren't linear anymore at rated A. You like to add rms, TI doesn't, I haven't seen it in inductor datasheet, but haven't been looking for it either🙂

That highly depends on the saturation curve. Those softer saturating ones need higher current ratings than the hard saturating ones to play "linear".

I.e. The GA3416 can be pushed hard until drop -> hard saturating

Inductance vs Current - GA3416-CL Class-D Dual Inductor
 
blackbird84, I have that first one and in 2 weeks time I'll have the third one too^^. I've been using it 2 month+ now and it works well. I've been running my 2ohm sub with it at perhaps 60% volume without problems. I've changed a gain resistor on it to reduce the gain. I wanted to match the level to my car speakers.
Also remember to short the 2 correct leads to take it out of suspend mode. Otherwise it wont play.. I have it permanently shorted and I had a little start up umph with the first cd player but not with the second player. I also measured the psu caps on it and they actually have low esr!

I bought the last one a week ago and I plan to use it for fullrange use. Both designs are very compact so I suspect the performances will be similar aswell. I just hope the board doesn't have hiss cause RC mod on the analog power in pin is easy to mess up! But atleast its decent access on this board! I'll come back with a mini review when I receive it.
 
Thanks again guys for input.
I bought the last one. I'll be back with feedback.

Nice, im looking forward to your feedback.
My guess is that you will be lucky with it in its stock form.
If not you should check for the input signal caps.
You might want a higher value, to set the low cut higher.
You can't go wrong with a power cap swap.
Output filter should not be critical with subwoofer use.
 
These amps are so small. It would be cool to use double sided foam tape and stick it right on back magnet of and 18in DVC driver with 2ohms. Or even better, solder some thick solid 16ga wire from outputs and run that straight to typical spring load wire terminal jacks on driver. It would basically look like part of the wiring. Run typically SMPS brick to it along with thin signal line. Load driver into 18in tapped horn sub - magnet and spring clips exposed out. That little "wire amp" would absolutely shake the house at 100w. Plus it gets self cooled with all the air flow going by.

People would ask "Where's the amp?"
 
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These amps are so small. It would be cool to use double sided foam tape and stick it right on back magnet of and 18in DVC driver with 2ohms. Or even better, solder some thick solid 16ga wire from outputs and run that straight to typical spring load wire terminal jacks on driver. It would basically look like part of the wiring. Run typically SMPS brick to it along with thin signal line. Load driver into 18in tapped horn sub - magnet and spring clips exposed out. That little "wire amp" would absolutely shake the house at 100w. Plus it gets self cooled with all the air flow going by.

People would ask "Where's the amp?"
I wouldn't mount a class D amplifier directly on a speaker magnet; the magnet's field may bias the inductors on the amp.

Mind you I haven't thought this through in real units or anything, effect may be insignificant.
 
On a sub woofer with a 80Hz low pass filter probably a non issue. You are right that the external B field modifies the inductance and people avoid putting XO boards directly on a speaker magnet for this reason. Although I have done it once myself and could not measure the impact on my XO. It seems that the filed may increase L and lower the cutoff frequency?
 
C'mon Irrebeo, you can't always be concentrating on building your next massive cap array and have no fun🙂

If you happen to have a TH sub already, you would surprise people by how loud it gets with a "wire" amp.

TH subs can be about 100dB to 102dB sensitive at 2.83v. These amps put out 20v easily. I think you would be at about 125dB easily.


I know of bass horns that are 108dB sensitive. Go down to 60Hz. Don't need but 2 watts for neighbors to call the cops on you.
 
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gmarsh is your cap array guy, he got 10 caps per tpa3116 just connected to pvcc🙂

I would say forget about 20V into 2 ohm (1.6 ohm voicecoil?). irs2092 are cheap enough and some can produce real power, like mentioned earlier, powerfigures are at for example 1% distortion, for any of the chinese ampboards I assume you can get there at 10 watt, a very simple decent EL84 tubeamp could be more powerfull 😀