TPA3116D2 Amp

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#6,621
chriscam said:
Anybody tried this already, a 3116 with a boost convertor as per the TI appnote # pmp9484 ?

Highly Efficient and Compact 100W Automotive Amplifier Reference Design with Boost Converter

Looks like a cheap way to get full power out of a 12V car battery 🙂
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I built a portableish boombox-thing using the case and drivers from a broken Logitech Z623, a 2.1 TPA3116 Breeze amp (without case) and a boost converter ("100W/ 10A") from DX, using a 9Ah 12V SLA.

It was loud and bassy enough for hours and the sound quality was more than acceptable given the amount of beer that was also served 🙂
 
#6,622
lowerFE said:
I don’t care about having a variable crossover. I just need something that’ll low pass to the sub channel and high pass the stereo channel.

While I could use a miniDSP (which I have one), I can’t find a 3 channel amp, or a 2.1 amp that takes 3 inputs.

I’m *really* surprised that a high pass filter is not available in this 2.1 amp. What’s the point of having a subwoofer channel if it is not offloading the stereo channel of the bass signals? I don’t know of a single commercial 2.1 amp that does not have a high pass filter. It just seems like common sense...
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You can make a passive line level XO (PLLXO) from small and cheap caps and resistors for the TPA3116's specific input impedence. Typically 30kohm with 26dB gain setting.

It will give you 12dB slopes and freq you can set to your liking.

For 3 channel amp, get one that has solder bridge points to convert to PBTL mono. Then you have 2ohm 100w capable amp and get 2ohm car audio sub driver.
 
#6,623
xrk971 said:
You can make a passive line level XO (PLLXO) from small and cheap caps and resistors for the TPA3116's specific input impedence. Typically 30kohm with 26dB gain setting.

It will give you 12dB slopes and freq you can set to your liking.

For 3 channel amp, get one that has solder bridge points to convert to PBTL mono. Then you have 2ohm 100w capable amp and get 2ohm car audio sub driver.
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Any way to make the slope 24dB instead of 12dB? I'm going to be putting a bass boost of around 10dB on the miniDSP. How do you add a line level crossover in a finished board?

Is there any way to mod the board so it accepts a 3rd channel input instead of getting a signal from the bass in the stereo channels?
 
#6,624
Hello everybody, I am new around here.

The question that led me here with help of google- does somebody have experience with mod of Breeze 2.0 amp by WLX?
Got one yesterday, but the sound is deep below the expected.
With Sony laptop 19.5 V/4.7 A supply sounds just a bit better than laptop speakers, lacking LF completely, while the MF and HF are bit better.
Saw some ideas here but no further info, how it went out.

Thanks!
 
#6,626
Thanks doctormord, though it didn't work out, guess the problem is in amp itself.
Few things more about it- the R/L inputs are swapped and the ON led is always on, whenever the power supply is connected. So, would advise to think twice before purchasing it.
 
#6,627
lowerFE said:
Any way to make the slope 24dB instead of 12dB? I'm going to be putting a bass boost of around 10dB on the miniDSP. How do you add a line level crossover in a finished board?

Is there any way to mod the board so it accepts a 3rd channel input instead of getting a signal from the bass in the stereo channels?
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You can cascade the two 12dB stages but the signal attenuation requires a buffer amp in between. So not passive anymore. But a single buffet is not as bad as active opamp filter.
 
#6,628
Ben_Tech said:
Has anyone heard the finished Breeze Audio TPA3116D2 2.0 channel amp? How did you think it sounded, stock and what is the potential for easy (I'm lazy!) mods to it? 🙂

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How about the Mo-gu F900 (supposedly uses the TPA3110 chip):

MoguF900_1-600x750.jpg


Don't care about the bluetooth function, but perhaps it has something like the Sure TPA3110 board in there? Anyone know? 🙂
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Have you brought MoguF900?

http://youtu.be/rXfCmPr3-tk
 
#6,629
Ioni said:
Thanks doctormord, though it didn't work out, guess the problem is in amp itself.
Few things more about it- the R/L inputs are swapped and the ON led is always on, whenever the power supply is connected. So, would advise to think twice before purchasing it.
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These are the known issues with this amp - but those are actually the only "issues" with it. It should sound excellent - unless you got a defective one...
3 days ago I got another one, from the seller fly-xy on ebay, from whom I have purchased a couple of those amps before. The one I got sounds excellent, just like the ones before it. If the swapedd channels bother you, you can desolder and swap the wires (swap internal L/R speaker wiring).

Other than that, it could be either damage in transport (unlikely), or a defective product - in either case, you should contact the seller.

Denis
 
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#6,631
Thanks den_hr, you're right, these few are minor things are easy to repair, though it's not same ease about the sound.
The amp looks good and no damages are seen, well soldered/ assembled inside, probably defective components are the reason.
Taking low price in account (32 usd) and long delivery time of 2 months, it's much easier for me to repair it by myself.
Probably will try to replace components, chip itself should be healthy.
p.s. took off heatsink, it was completely painted- and fixed to chip with layer of paint between, and thermopaste as well, took paint off at place of contact with chip.
 
#6,632
mguntrum said:
The only problem I ran into was with the output capacitors, I originally had cheap 50V caps in and they quickly smoked without a speaker load. I replaced them with the square 100V caps and all is well. I don't plan on running it without a load but it has to survive at least for a little while if a speaker wire pulls out or isn't connected.
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Without a speaker connected the output filter inductor rings causing very high voltages.
I usually use a much higher voltage capacitor to get around this.
 
#6,635
gmarsh said:
Seems like it - AMP6 uses a T60-2 Micrometals core, which is red/clear as you see. If you count 39 windings then bingo.

I wouldn't run an amp at 24V with these inductors though, you'll be pushing them into saturation if you do.
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Yes, they are T60-2 with 40 windings, so I' guessing it's around 10 or 11uH, right?
I'm planning to power the amp at 21V maximum, would you say it's safe or maybe better around 19V?
Thanks by now!
 
#6,636
#6,637
#6,639
So what to do with 2 TPA3116 identical amps... drive 2 pairs of speakers at once, of course...
I have a signal coming from Little bear P-3 tube based preamplifier and I will split it on two amps.
Now, I am searching for a solution for controlling balance between them.
I found link, look at "Figure 9- Centre Weighted Balance Control" in "Changing the Law of a Pot" section.
Should I go with 100K LOG reversed pots, or 50K LOG pots?
In the schematic there are 33K resistors for 100K pot, what would be value of those for 50K LOG pot?
I need minimum loss in the middle position.

TIA

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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