Exactly and the 4th is behind the inductors? Like: Gosh too little room, happened to me befor, lets add another after the inductors, I have room there.They soldered the bootstraps cap at the bottom of the 2.0 board and might done the samething on the 2.1 as well.
"Heatcollector" mounted this time, SMPS500RS at measured 26.667 volts playing now, maybe treble is a little more stressed. Sure3116 heatcollector gets warm very quick, but seems at stable temperature after 1 minute.
Wow, that's a lot of power. How does it sound? I don't see a softstart module. Does the lamp flick when you turn it on?
SMPS500R has softstart, don't know if it is needed. I will compare sound later, some things I noticed but need to check, could be great supply at lower voltage 🙂Wow, that's a lot of power. How does it sound? I don't see a softstart module. Does the lamp flick when you turn it on?
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SMPS500R has softstart, don't know if it is needed. I will compare sound later, some things I noticed but need to check, could be great supply at lower voltage 🙂
You would need to change some components value to lower the voltage. I did changing caps values for tuning my sigma 11 PSU to get 24.00v showed on my DMM.
SMPS500R has softstart, don't know if it is needed. I will compare sound later, some things I noticed but need to check, could be great supply at lower voltage 🙂
Is the SMPS500R a 24V version? That PSU has a stated range of 23-30V so may be possible to adjust VR1 to lower the voltage to 23V.
Last weekend I participated as an exhibitor on the largest national audio/video show in Croatia - the "AV show Zagreb 2014". I was invited as a member of the local DIY community to show my RasPi server plus some other goodies: this was also an opportunity to show the little TPA3116 to a more "serious" audience 🙂
28 June 2014 Serbian DIY geathering


This is the exact reason I bought the FeiXiang 2.1, it has a separate XO (...)
Argh.. just purchased the Breeze. Mainly because it has to fit in my Tabletop's amp panel and the Breeze's pcb has the same size as the one I own now.
But thanks anyway for the hint, I will give it a try if the Breeze's sub sounds odd, too.
(...)Anyway, the TPA3116 (the "HIFI" version) was connected to a pair of nice DIY speakers (...)
Great stuff! Self constructed diy speakers or is there any diy-kit to them?
Great stuff! Self constructed diy speakers or is there any diy-kit to them?
Complete DIY, not a kit - goes for both pairs of speakers in the photo...
Is the SMPS500R a 24V version? That PSU has a stated range of 23-30V so may be possible to adjust VR1 to lower the voltage to 23V.
Original box says: SMPS 500RS 28V
I don't think it will go lower than 26.7, I kind of remember adjusting it to lowest point few weeks ago, but will look. 26.7 V is not causing shutdown here yet LOL, temperature when idle is high though, but will try without heatcollector idle, could turn out better. Inductors Sure3116 with 26.7V PSU are warmer than heatsink, but heatsink rests on inductors too. Idle temperature middle 2 inductors 22 degrees Celsius above roomtemperature, playing low listeninglevel (not backgroundlevel) inductors get to 20 degrees Celsius above roomtemperature (18 to 19 degrees for 2 corner inductors that are not partly covered by heatsink).
Top heatcollector itself 7 degrees Celsius above room idle to 13 degrees Celsius above roomtemperature playing lowlevel music.
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Original box says: SMPS 500RS 28V
Ah, probably a Hifimediy one then. Thats a pity. No easy way to change it as I understand.
Some time ago 28V was regular voltage name. Newer 24V versions are better suited for tpa3116, however latest lower watt models have wider range but higher voltage, and voltage stated not middle voltage! Just ordered some parts from Audiophonics.fr maybe I should have waited a little LOL well shipping isn't terrible from France for me🙂
Received equal looking Wurth inductors for Sure3116 today, a little bit more even on outside, core is in middle all 4, Sure inductors are a bit messier, but at first glance same package. Ordered them befor connecting 26.7V PSU, but now temperature is a reason too🙂 Normal listeninglevel and inductors rise to 25 degrees Celsius above roomtemp, that is beginning to feel hot, if I set amp to 20 watt I may be able to get inductors off without desoldering, joke, but 25 degrees rise is with less than 1 watt output to speakers (remember only that warm with 26.7V PSU).
Received equal looking Wurth inductors for Sure3116 today, a little bit more even on outside, core is in middle all 4, Sure inductors are a bit messier, but at first glance same package. Ordered them befor connecting 26.7V PSU, but now temperature is a reason too🙂 Normal listeninglevel and inductors rise to 25 degrees Celsius above roomtemp, that is beginning to feel hot, if I set amp to 20 watt I may be able to get inductors off without desoldering, joke, but 25 degrees rise is with less than 1 watt output to speakers (remember only that warm with 26.7V PSU).
... but 25 degrees rise is with less than 1 watt output to speakers (remember only that warm with 26.7V PSU).
The voltage is a bit on the high side. But I'm wondering, if other boards don't get that hot with same voltage, then what's going on with Sure board.
I'm waiting my Sure board to arrive and would be very interested to hear, if someone manages to cool this hot head.

The voltage is a bit on the high side. But I'm wondering, if other boards don't get that hot with same voltage, then what's going on with Sure board.
I'm waiting my Sure board to arrive and would be very interested to hear, if someone manages to cool this hot head.![]()
YJblue inductors got far warmer 24 hours idle with my 14V PSU than Sure inductors with 26.7V, but roomtemperature was higher, was in summer. Sure3116 idle with my 14V has inductors 7 to 8 degrees above roomtemperature, heatsink/collector topside 3 degrees above room. There is something about the idle waves the possible tiny inductors do not like but on Sure they might be still cooling down from too high voltage supply.
Simple music sounds real good on 26.7V supply, but when music gets more complicated Sure seems to really start distorting, I wasn't certain befor, some other things changed too(dac), but now back to 14V 10/12A PSU, not a brick either, there is rest no matter how complicated music gets. Connex might be a little more detailed in long lasting bass (organ), but need to listen more to 14V first (dac).
I still don't know why the inductors on the Ybdz Weiner never even get warm? Even after swapping out the stock inductors on YJ Blue/Black with nice Coilcrafts they were still warm. It's almost like there is something inherent in the design that causes current to flow and get dissipated in the inductors even when idle. It may be layout based. The Ybdz is very compact and uses mostly SMT components except for output filter caps.
I still don't know why the inductors on the Ybdz Weiner never even get warm? Even after swapping out the stock inductors on YJ Blue/Black with nice Coilcrafts they were still warm. It's almost like there is something inherent in the design that causes current to flow and get dissipated in the inductors even when idle. It may be layout based. The Ybdz is very compact and uses mostly SMT components except for output filter caps.
I run the YJ b/b board at 21V; no significant warming of inductors that came with the board. I had some Vishay 1347AD 15uH rated at 4.9A on hand & put them on the board just for something to do ... at moderate listening level, they don't get warm at all, room temp around 25°C. For the EVM board, TI use Toko 10uH rated at 5.8A
BTW: didn't notice any SQ change with the Vishays
Speakerload is also related to inductor temperature.
(my YJblue unaltered didn't get warm inductors with other speakers)
(my YJblue unaltered didn't get warm inductors with other speakers)
When I posted my design Saturnus recomended to chance the inductors position, that it would be better all in a row or two by two, this could be one of the cause of them getting so warm.
I still don't know why the inductors on the Ybdz Weiner never even get warm? Even after swapping out the stock inductors on YJ Blue/Black with nice Coilcrafts they were still warm. It's almost like there is something inherent in the design that causes current to flow and get dissipated in the inductors even when idle. It may be layout based. The Ybdz is very compact and uses mostly SMT components except for output filter caps.
My "Audiobah" board, which used a 2 + 2 configuration for the output inductor (common mode inductor?) never got warm either. And these inductors were smaller in size as compare to those in the YJ boards.
Regards,
When I posted my design Saturnus recomended to chance the inductors position, that it would be better all in a row or two by two, this could be one of the cause of them getting so warm.
Did you recall what are the reasons for these proposed arrangements of the inductors?
Regards,
Interference cancellation. Even shielded inductors emit RF noise especially at such short distances. By arranging them in pairs in close proximity and on right angles the inductors are most strongly magnetically connected and act like chokes at very high frequencies. It is important to note that they should not be magnetically connected at all at lower frequencies below about double the switching frequency. I can't imagine why this would cause them have lower overall loss, ie. get less warm, but I might have some ideas that I could test out.
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