I also agree. It's strange that he doesn't include the chip soldered to the PCB. I private messaged Hiamplifier a couple of weeks ago to inquire about the TPA3116 PCB availability. He replied and quoted $13 USD for the PCB with the TPA3116 chip soldered plus $4 USD for delivery to Australia. I messaged him back to confirm an order for a single board but still haven't received a response.
Regards, Richard.
Regards, Richard.
Anyone has tried to use YJ blue board without CRC snubber network?
Could the snubber affect the sound quality?
Could the snubber affect the sound quality?
Shipping from Hiamplifier (Hong Kong) to the Netherlands wass really fast, faster than from Grand Prairie TX (Mouser) to the Netherlands by Fedex🙁 at least this time for me. I received pcb with only the TI chip soldered.
Hi, just a quick pic to show my nearly complete twin YJ 2.0 blue boards... waiting on a second pair of terminal posts & speaker wire to arrive.
In this situation using SYNC would be recommended? Currently on each board the SYNC pin [#16] has a 10K R > 1uF > GND... To connect the boards I would need to run a wire from between 10K R & 1uF on the Master board, then connect the wire before the 10K R on the slave board? Also, on the Slave board, best to replace the 10K R with a 0 Ohm jumper?
Also thinking of setting the gain to 20dB, so will need one 5.6K R and two 51K R for the Master/Slave voltage dividers. On the Master board, I remove the 100K R and leave the R2 open...
Thanks in advance.
Paul
In this situation using SYNC would be recommended? Currently on each board the SYNC pin [#16] has a 10K R > 1uF > GND... To connect the boards I would need to run a wire from between 10K R & 1uF on the Master board, then connect the wire before the 10K R on the slave board? Also, on the Slave board, best to replace the 10K R with a 0 Ohm jumper?
Also thinking of setting the gain to 20dB, so will need one 5.6K R and two 51K R for the Master/Slave voltage dividers. On the Master board, I remove the 100K R and leave the R2 open...
Thanks in advance.
Paul
Attachments
How would the vendor test the assembly?
You solder the rest of the parts on.
It does not work. (for some reason)
Who is responsible for the troubleshooting and repair?
Last edited:
I am with you on this 100%. The fact that it will take time, resources and effort for me to acquire the skill to do that properly AND because I do not do that often enough, the skill developed is lost quickly. The cycle then resumes the next time I have to do that. Adding on top my deteriorating eyesight is not helping either.
Regards,
The set up looks good! I am doing the same thing. You are running the boards in stereo mode, I presume?
I ordered two of the green boards (the "Audiobah" ones) from China and I plan to set them up in PBTL (mono) mode using one 24 V swtiching PS. I am not sure whether I need to syn the two boards under the circumstances. I will try it out and see if there are problems.
Regards,
Got my YJ 2.0 Red board. It sounds good but can't beat my LM3886 amp or STK4192 amp.
The problem is with the bass. I have tried 19V 3.2A laptop power adapter and a 15V 2A laptop adapter. I don't feel any difference. Will it make any difference if I use a 24V power supply?
Thanks!
The problem is with the bass. I have tried 19V 3.2A laptop power adapter and a 15V 2A laptop adapter. I don't feel any difference. Will it make any difference if I use a 24V power supply?
Thanks!
🙂 I sent an amp board back to China once, 21,70 euro was cheapest shipping from here to China🙂 That is US $30. Can you expect Chinese seller to pay for sending amp back? So what to do when $20 amp does not work LOL
Agreed. This chips : L15D, 3116, .... can not beat a $500 amplifier... It is around $20, and you have what you pay, not more.
If you say so..
I love audio snobbery; it rises to levels found nowhere else. Not sure why $500 good audio is automatically better than $20 good audio without ANY consideration for the total system configuration and synergy. Just let us enjoy our shitty little cheap amps and go elsewhere if you don't particularly care for them.
I love audio snobbery; it rises to levels found nowhere else. Not sure why $500 good audio is automatically better than $20 good audio without ANY consideration for the total system configuration and synergy. Just let us enjoy our shitty little cheap amps and go elsewhere if you don't particularly care for them.
Sorry, I don't want to add some troubles...
I like this $20 system ... It sounds really good in my kitchen.
Sorry if I think it can be beated by another amp.
Yes, they're running in stereo, these are to be used for a 2-way OB project... Thought about using two in PBTL mode for a pair Eminence Alpha 15A, but only require mid / low SPL. ~32Watt will be plenty. I do like the idea of using these to create active speakers, mounting them directly to the back of the OB 🙂
Once these are fired up, I'm hoping I can here a difference between these and my 'The Wire' LPUHP amps... will be mortified if The Wire amps don't perform better.
Hmm, I am interested in Owen's LPUHP too (likely my next project). Please let us know your impressions between these two.
Regards,
If you don't have bass, you're probably running just the coupling caps. Put another 10kuf+ at the VCC (DC power in) input.
The amp won't be impressive without it.
I don't think the 3875/3886 is very good at all these days.
The amp won't be impressive without it.
I don't think the 3875/3886 is very good at all these days.
Good idea, I'll have a try. But not optimist. I already done that with my L15D. I posted some measurements, with my speakers L15D and 3116 are comparable for me.
As I said it is a very good amplifier with regards to the price:
L15D need a costly power input but not the 3116.
Good value amplifier.
