Thanks! Yes the HP 19v 7.1a adapter comes from an All-in-one machine that no longer works. So the adapter is just lying around doing nothing, hope to put it to good use with the TPA3116 😛
I agree. Also, the hole on the board top is very close to the two traces leading to LOUT+ and ROUT-…. so that if the solder mask is compromised, an over-tightened screw with a head big enough could potentially bridge them together or with the ground plane or with the chassis or all of the above.
I almost always use little shoulder washers (top and bottom) which isolates the board completely from the aluminum standoffs I use and from anything they are attached to.
Attachments
Pardon my ignorance. So the 2, 2 channel amps will be used for one speaker (driving different drivers)?
It was mentioned (see Virpz and DUG's post a page or two before) that if a single PSU is serving two or more amp boards, one might want to sync the chip together to avoid any possible interference due to power modulation. As shown in the data sheet, syncing the chips requires linking the chips on the amp boards (see the schematic on p.14) via a wire, and set one amp as master and all the other as slaves.
For your application, I think someone more knowledgeable such as xrk971 would be the person to talk to.
Regards,
I think these TPA31xx amps like current. I purchased an Astron RS-12A regulated linear power supply for $20 through Craigslist. The unit is in mint condition and I couldn't believe the guy only wanted $20 for it. I got it home and hooked it up to my Yuan Jing 2.0 TPA3116D2 "blue" board and the sound I get from this amp is fantastic.
I'm listening to an RCA Living Stereo SACD of Rimsky-Korsakov's "Scheherazade" and Stravinsky's "Song of the Nightingale" and I very impressed with the large soundstage, solid imaging and improve tonality. I still have yet to explore battery power supplies for this amp, but this Astron power supply has left my SMPS in the dust.
Last edited:
I have a miniDSP 2x4 and use a TPA3116D2 for the tops (full range drivers going from 200 Hz to 20kHz) and a class A/B for the woofers (200 Hz and below). I am still waiting for my Ybdz 2.0 boards to arrive and will test out this whole PS and master/slave sync'ing business.
I suppose I could also try using my Sure TPA3110D2 board for the tops and the TPA3116D2 for the woofers and see if it matters whether or not they are sync'd.
The system sounds great and measures very well. Here is the in-room response at listening position. This is using only $30 worth of drivers (qnty 6, 2x3.5 inch full range and 4 x 6.5 inch woofers) in the Nautaloss cabinets.
The miniDSP is a perfect match to the compact TPA3116D2 for a nice active 2-way system.
TPA3116 [2.0 / 1.0] Mini Board 50x50mm
Just made the standard version Board with using the AV, EVOX, MKT, Siemens and Nichicon (FW) Capacitors.
Later try to mod with use the Nichicon MUSE ES(BP) 1uF and Fine Gold Cap. (FG) 1uF
Just made the standard version Board with using the AV, EVOX, MKT, Siemens and Nichicon (FW) Capacitors.
Later try to mod with use the Nichicon MUSE ES(BP) 1uF and Fine Gold Cap. (FG) 1uF
Attachments
Hiamplifier,
Nice looking board there! You managed to squeeze thru hole components into a 50x50 mm PCB. Heat from the inductors and heatsink for the amp may make things a bit warm but probably not a big deal. Are these for sale yet?
Nice looking board there! You managed to squeeze thru hole components into a 50x50 mm PCB. Heat from the inductors and heatsink for the amp may make things a bit warm but probably not a big deal. Are these for sale yet?
Wow, that is a tightly packed board! Nice! How does it sound?
Could you provide more details about the caps you used?
Could you provide more details about the caps you used?
ES need two per leg, back to back with opposing orientation. And 2.2uf values will be seen as 1.1uf in that config. That's 4 per channel for input.
In single config bass or treble becomes too dominate depending on polarity. That's what I found produced every bit as good as about anything else sound.
In single config bass or treble becomes too dominate depending on polarity. That's what I found produced every bit as good as about anything else sound.
I just realized that the blue YJ board Im thinking of purchasing doesn't have a subwoofer output. Is there a way I can connect a sub to the TPA3116?
I just got 2 boards today and must say that I'm loving the sound of the 3116 better than the the Sure 3120 that I modified or any of the Tripath amps I've used. It sounds really great with a pair of Cornu Spirals.
Most impressive 😀 This is great fun.
Planning to modify the second board in the next few days but I don't know how much better this little guy could get.
Most impressive 😀 This is great fun.
Planning to modify the second board in the next few days but I don't know how much better this little guy could get.
Today I put the new YJ blue board into a test / break-in chassis to hear how it does in its stock form. I'm using a Meanwell 6A power supply trimmed to 22V and running a burn-in disc into a 4 Ohm load for a couple of days before I do any real listening or comparisons with the others.
Attachments
Boards are the red ones from Juan Jjing.
The power input is weird- it actually sparks and caused a speaker pop. It happens just as the jack is being inserted. I haven't put a switch on it or replaced the power jack. It sparks on both boards.
Sounds very good though.
The power input is weird- it actually sparks and caused a speaker pop. It happens just as the jack is being inserted. I haven't put a switch on it or replaced the power jack. It sparks on both boards.
Sounds very good though.