TPA3116D2 Amp

I contacted them weeks ago and never heard back. I purchased my TPA3116 directly from YJ and found the packaging and shipping top notch, so I am surprised that no one has answered me yet. Given some of the problems people are having with the Breeze, I would love a YJ unit. My office setup desperately needs some low end.

Well, as the Chinese New Year is almost here, I wonder whether YJ has closed for holidays.

Regards,
 
So, finally the green boards have arrived. The ones from Taobao/Aliexpress, not Ebay.

First, a TL;DR: forget about the YJ red boards and go for the greenies.


The amp came in a bubble wrapped plastic bag, with a ~2.1 cm² heat sink for the chip.

Recalling the bad experience with the YJ's, I was very cautious when setting up the system. Everything remained the same as before, specially the two songs: "Jazz Variants - The O-zone Percussion Group" and "Holst: Planets - Jupiter".

After a quick listen, turned it off to check the temperatures. I did not use the provided heat sink, but the spare (and smaller) from the YJ board. The chip was barely warm, and the inductors, my worst fear, dead cold at room temperature. Not a shed of warmth.

The green connectors are better indeed. They are removable, which is a big plus. You will however have problems fitting any cable larger than 14 AWG.

But why do I say to forget about the red boards? Because the sound is much better that YJ's from the start.

I was pretty excited when I first got the YJ, but was soon underwhelmed by its performance. A hard sounding amplifier, nasal vocals, peaky midrange and without good extension on both ends of the spectrum. The only think I found it good at was macrodynamics. To be honest, immediately I blamed the chip. The 3116 just do not have the qualities of the 3110. Fortunately, that was not the case, for the 3116 is quite a competent chip. The green 3116 did have a good sound from the very start. I could do a review with dozens of audiophile powerwords, but I don't see the point. Unless someone asks for it.

Hopefully in the next two or three weeks my scanspeak towers will be finished, enabling me to look at a bigger picture.

The setup : dedicated PC (linux based) > TOSLINK Cable (generic) > Lampucera DAC + AD OpAmp > DIY interconnect > Green TPA3116 + 8.800uF SANYO Capacitive bank + 5A PSU (19.5V) > Audioquest FLX 14/4 > Sony HT fullrange speakers.

After hearing a fair share of multi hundred thousand dollar audio rooms, I can't help but to wonder: how far a proper implementation of this chip could go?


Hmmm, interesting. I thought all the Chinese boards are essentially the same circuit - the one described in the data sheet/application note. The main differences between them would be the PCB design and the parts used. Look like Saturnus is right, the PCB of this green board is better designed than the YJ board?

Now, I am tempted to get one of this green board.

Regards,
 
green or red? pbtl?

This green board is not the same one which has the previous one shown which has the pbtl or mono capability. I am about to take the plunge on one of these designs, which one sounds the best stock and easiest to modify if i decide to? My soldering abilities are to the best..but could improve quickly! Thanks for any suggestions!
 
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Hmmm, interesting. I thought all the Chinese boards are essentially the same circuit - the one described in the data sheet/application note. The main differences between them would be the PCB design and the parts used. Look like Saturnus is right, the PCB of this green board is better designed than the YJ board?

Now, I am tempted to get one of this green board.

Regards,

I actually thought Saturnus said this design was not optimal because it did not use the tightest layout and the caps were not ceramic SMT. I may have misread it. It is a compact package and skips the volume pot which is a plus. I am concerned that the gain setting appears to be 36 dB vs 24 dB as on the YJ boards. This may make for a lower input impedance?
 
The output caps are tantalum. Next best thing. The board layout isn't optimal but by a good margin better than the YJ boards, and a mile better than the breeze amp.

I must also stress that just being SMT X7R ceramic caps in the output filter section is not in itself a good thing, they must also be rated for at least 100V, and preferably 250V, otherwise tantalum is preferable. An alternative to a 250V X7R caps could also be 2 100V X7R in parallel, one being 676 times smaller than the main cap, and main cap value could be 1.414 times larger than nominal for best effect (keep the 676 times ratio).
 
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Hmmm, interesting. I thought all the Chinese boards are essentially the same circuit - the one described in the data sheet/application note. The main differences between them would be the PCB design and the parts used. Look like Saturnus is right, the PCB of this green board is better designed than the YJ board?

Now, I am tempted to get one of this green board.

Regards,

Yes, Saturnus is right. I think the circuit is sligthy different, with mute function and other gimmicks, probably some smd caps to act as filters on the powerline. Not sure, but it looks like that to me. But the core circuit for chip operation most likely follows the datasheet.


@ramp3

Please, can you comment the "Silent Sleep Design"? Does it avoid (or just mitigate) the bump noise at start up?

At the moment I have not tested it. I guess it has to do with the mute function working as a "stand by". But with the chinese instructions I am not sure how to make it work, though the pins are labeled as GND, MUTE and SD.


This green board is not the same one which has the previous one shown which has the pbtl or mono capability. I am about to take the plunge on one of these designs, which one sounds the best stock and easiest to modify if i decide to? My soldering abilities are to the best..but could improve quickly! Thanks for any suggestions!

Not, it's not the same. The PBTL/Mono sells on Ebay only, and these retail on Aliexpress/Taobao.

If these are similar to Tripath boards, the most crucial components are the input capacitors, followed by output filter components (coils and caps) and then power capacitors.


One thing I forgot to mention, the power caps on this board are rated 35V. And a gain switch would be great.

For 15 bucks it's worth the try. I have a few of the blue boards (taobao only) on the way, might be better, but no ideia when they arrive.
 
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This one is interesting as it is the first to use the factory spec 10 uH inductors instead of the 22uH ones on all the other ones. Also, it has polyester film input cap instead of ceramic SMT cap and has tantalum filter caps coupled with polyester film caps for RF snubber. Also the first one to have what appears to be a zener diode - presumably to set a voltage for the no sonic boom (turn on thump suppression) switch. The price is unbeatable. Curious to see how this one works out.
 
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I actually thought Saturnus said this design was not optimal because it did not use the tightest layout and the caps were not ceramic SMT. I may have misread it. It is a compact package and skips the volume pot which is a plus. I am concerned that the gain setting appears to be 36 dB vs 24 dB as on the YJ boards. This may make for a lower input impedance?

xrk

Thank you for pointing it out. I did not realised that the gain is at the maximum setting. I am a little worry about possible noise issue. Something around 30 db is the maximum that I prefer. Well, I guess the YJ and this green board is not quite the same then.

Regards,
 
On the gain setting. Think of it this way. Gain has to match the source.

20dB gain match balanced or automotive high voltage line level signals
26dB gain match normal line level signals
32dB gain match portable equipment headphone output
36dB gain match very low output devices like some ipods and smart phones headphone output
 
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xrk

Thank you for pointing it out. I did not realised that the gain is at the maximum setting. I am a little worry about possible noise issue. Something around 30 db is the maximum that I prefer. Well, I guess the YJ and this green board is not quite the same then.

Regards,

I might have to swap out the tiny SMT resistors to set it to 26dB if needed. Although I will listen to it first at 36dB to see what it sounds like. Although my miniDSP is having a hard time driving my current 24dB gain to high volumes so maybe this won't be so bad.