digikey.com/product-detail/en/EEH-ZA1V271P/P15453CT-ND/3088171
Pricey but you asked for the best.
I disagree about the tripath chips being bad though. Improper implementation mostly, and especially the Sure designs which were awful. Other than that they were the absolute best until very recently (read: in the last 2-3 years) when other manufacturers finally caught up.
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I think we should just lobby Saturnus to design a board with the alternate modulation and good layout and have a group buy and be done with it
Agree! I am seriously thinking of replacing my current amp (Bryston 4B ST) with two "parallel" 100 W 3116 boards, using better components and PSU. I need more power for my 84dB speakers.
Regards,
Thanks for the input. These 270uF Caps seem lower than the 1000 uF to 1500 uF Panasonic Caps others seem to be recommending. The price is no problem if the SQ improvement is that good.
I used Elna SilmicII for the 2-local ch bulk filter 220u//35V and another 4700uF/35V bulk. . But I am using a linear supply. If you use a switcher, you probably want as low a ESR as you can afford.
Panasonic FC or equiv, Nichicon UKL, UPW would probably be just as good, in my case.
For coupling ecaps I have heard suggested Organic polymer for the lowest possible ESR, nichicon PLV,RNU types.
Panasonic FC or equiv, Nichicon UKL, UPW would probably be just as good, in my case.
For coupling ecaps I have heard suggested Organic polymer for the lowest possible ESR, nichicon PLV,RNU types.
So I just received my Breeze amp and thought I'd follow this (excellent ) advice. Opened her up and surprise, surprise: No heat sinks at all
This amp has some other issues as well:
- the power switch doesn't work at all, and the unit is constantly on. There appears to be some pretty dodgy soldering around the power switch too..
- it is also running very hot: with the volume control turned right down, I can't put my fingers on the inductors for more than 5 or 6 seconds. Ditto for the chips themselves (without the heat sinks of course).
I also have a YJ 2.0 board as well and this runs totally cool at pretty much all times, so I'm concerned about this Breeze amp running so hot.
Maybe somebody else who has a Breeze unit can tell me how hot these thing normally run?
Should I try and fix this one, or send it back and get a replacement, which hopefully works OK?
Attachments
Contact them...get replacement or money back.
If new one gets hot...money back or fix it yourself.
IMO
So I just received my Breeze amp and thought I'd follow this (excellent ) advice. Opened her up and surprise, surprise: No heat sinks at all
This amp has some other issues as well:
- the power switch doesn't work at all, and the unit is constantly on. There appears to be some pretty dodgy soldering around the power switch too..
- it is also running very hot: with the volume control turned right down, I can't put my fingers on the inductors for more than 5 or 6 seconds. Ditto for the chips themselves (without the heat sinks of course).
I also have a YJ 2.0 board as well and this runs totally cool at pretty much all times, so I'm concerned about this Breeze amp running so hot.
Maybe somebody else who has a Breeze unit can tell me how hot these thing normally run?
Should I try and fix this one, or send it back and get a replacement, which hopefully works OK?
Wow, that looks like some pretty shoddy soldering. Looks like they brushed one of the capacitors with the iron near the outputs...
Check the inside of the topcover for the missing heatsinks.
When this amp is running normally and driving typical loads, I wouldn't bat an eye at running it without sinks but the way yours is running seems wrong.
My inductors run warm, never hot. The chips themselves run cool to warm, never hot.
I've been driving a pair of Genesis G7p speakers (6 Ohm / 86db) on the stereo outputs and a Velodyne sub on the LF output.
It's difficult to tell from your photos, but it looks like overall quality and attention to detail isn't as good as what is on mine. Here's a fairly detailed pic of mine as it was received (except the heatsinks aren't present in this pic.... one had came off in transit and I removed the other to reattach them both uniformly.
Attachments
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I had seen the heat damaged cap too. Well spotted. Alas, no heat sinks anywhere to be seen.
I'll see whether I can get a (better) replacement from them.
Does YJ 2.1 Boxed Unit Have Adjustable XO Freq?
Does anyone know if the YJ boxed 2.1 unit that says "Trible" on the pot knob in front has a variable crossover frequency? According to the YJ website, this box does have a variable crossover for the sub adjustable from 70 Hz to 150 Hz. It appears to be a very well-made board and has nice RCA inputs as opposed to the Breeze which just has 3.5 mm input jack. The layout seems to give the inductors more room to breathe and cool off. Seems like a fair price at $53. Any experience with this unit that can be shared would be appreciated. Could that "Trible" knob be really meant to be XO frequency?
Thanks,
X
Yuan Jing Audio - TPA3116D Class-D 2.1 Stereo Amplifier [50W x 2] + Sub-Woofer [100W] + Audio Tuning - $53.50
Does anyone know if the YJ boxed 2.1 unit that says "Trible" on the pot knob in front has a variable crossover frequency? According to the YJ website, this box does have a variable crossover for the sub adjustable from 70 Hz to 150 Hz. It appears to be a very well-made board and has nice RCA inputs as opposed to the Breeze which just has 3.5 mm input jack. The layout seems to give the inductors more room to breathe and cool off. Seems like a fair price at $53. Any experience with this unit that can be shared would be appreciated. Could that "Trible" knob be really meant to be XO frequency?
Thanks,
X
Yuan Jing Audio - TPA3116D Class-D 2.1 Stereo Amplifier [50W x 2] + Sub-Woofer [100W] + Audio Tuning - $53.50
Code:
TPA3116D Class-D 2.1 Stereo Amplifier [50W x 2] + Sub-Woofer [100W] + Audio Tuning
Product Details:
1. Use the TI TPA3116D Class-D Stereo Amplifier Chip
2. Build-in Bass Volume / Treble Control and Power Switch
3. Use ± 1% Metal Resistors
4. Use Coils Inductors for filter
5. Use 2.0 oz copper thickness with PCB FR4 material
Key Parameters:
Power Efficiency: > 90%
Quiescent Supply Current: 50mA
Freq. Response: 20Hz ~ 20KHz
Rated Output Power: 2 x 50W @ 4 Ohm
Adjustable Frequency Crossover 70Hz~150Hz
Voltage Range: DC 18V ~ 26V
Recommended Voltage: DC 24V / 2 ~ 6A
Interface (From L.H.S)
1) Power Switch 2) Bass Volume 3) Treble 4) L/R Volume
I was hoping someone on this forum has actually bought one of these. I recall people making fun of the lettering on the front "Trible" but has anyone bough one? It seems silly to put a treble cut as one of the adjustments when they state XO freq is adjustable.
I just sent YJ an enquiry via their website. As it is 1 am in HK, probably won't hear from them for a while.
I just sent YJ an enquiry via their website. As it is 1 am in HK, probably won't hear from them for a while.
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So, finally the green boards have arrived. The ones from Taobao/Aliexpress, not Ebay.
First, a TL;DR: forget about the YJ red boards and go for the greenies.
The amp came in a bubble wrapped plastic bag, with a ~2.1 cm² heat sink for the chip.
Recalling the bad experience with the YJ's, I was very cautious when setting up the system. Everything remained the same as before, specially the two songs: "Jazz Variants - The O-zone Percussion Group" and "Holst: Planets - Jupiter".
After a quick listen, turned it off to check the temperatures. I did not use the provided heat sink, but the spare (and smaller) from the YJ board. The chip was barely warm, and the inductors, my worst fear, dead cold at room temperature. Not a shed of warmth.
The green connectors are better indeed. They are removable, which is a big plus. You will however have problems fitting any cable larger than 14 AWG.
But why do I say to forget about the red boards? Because the sound is much better that YJ's from the start.
I was pretty excited when I first got the YJ, but was soon underwhelmed by its performance. A hard sounding amplifier, nasal vocals, peaky midrange and without good extension on both ends of the spectrum. The only think I found it good at was macrodynamics. To be honest, immediately I blamed the chip. The 3116 just do not have the qualities of the 3110. Fortunately, that was not the case, for the 3116 is quite a competent chip. The green 3116 did have a good sound from the very start. I could do a review with dozens of audiophile powerwords, but I don't see the point. Unless someone asks for it.
Hopefully in the next two or three weeks my scanspeak towers will be finished, enabling me to look at a bigger picture.
The setup : dedicated PC (linux based) > TOSLINK Cable (generic) > Lampucera DAC + AD OpAmp > DIY interconnect > Green TPA3116 + 8.800uF SANYO Capacitive bank + 5A PSU (19.5V) > Audioquest FLX 14/4 > Sony HT fullrange speakers.
After hearing a fair share of multi hundred thousand dollar audio rooms, I can't help but to wonder: how far a proper implementation of this chip could go?
First, a TL;DR: forget about the YJ red boards and go for the greenies.
The amp came in a bubble wrapped plastic bag, with a ~2.1 cm² heat sink for the chip.
Recalling the bad experience with the YJ's, I was very cautious when setting up the system. Everything remained the same as before, specially the two songs: "Jazz Variants - The O-zone Percussion Group" and "Holst: Planets - Jupiter".
After a quick listen, turned it off to check the temperatures. I did not use the provided heat sink, but the spare (and smaller) from the YJ board. The chip was barely warm, and the inductors, my worst fear, dead cold at room temperature. Not a shed of warmth.
The green connectors are better indeed. They are removable, which is a big plus. You will however have problems fitting any cable larger than 14 AWG.
But why do I say to forget about the red boards? Because the sound is much better that YJ's from the start.
I was pretty excited when I first got the YJ, but was soon underwhelmed by its performance. A hard sounding amplifier, nasal vocals, peaky midrange and without good extension on both ends of the spectrum. The only think I found it good at was macrodynamics. To be honest, immediately I blamed the chip. The 3116 just do not have the qualities of the 3110. Fortunately, that was not the case, for the 3116 is quite a competent chip. The green 3116 did have a good sound from the very start. I could do a review with dozens of audiophile powerwords, but I don't see the point. Unless someone asks for it.
Hopefully in the next two or three weeks my scanspeak towers will be finished, enabling me to look at a bigger picture.
The setup : dedicated PC (linux based) > TOSLINK Cable (generic) > Lampucera DAC + AD OpAmp > DIY interconnect > Green TPA3116 + 8.800uF SANYO Capacitive bank + 5A PSU (19.5V) > Audioquest FLX 14/4 > Sony HT fullrange speakers.
After hearing a fair share of multi hundred thousand dollar audio rooms, I can't help but to wonder: how far a proper implementation of this chip could go?
Ramp3,
Thanks for sharing your impressions of the Green boards. Can you post a link of the exact board you tested? I have not yet bought the red YJ board and if this one is that much better, I may go for it.
Is it this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pc-TPA3116-Class-D-digital-amplifier-50W-50-W-with-Silent-Sleep-Design/1586764360.html
Thanks for sharing your impressions of the Green boards. Can you post a link of the exact board you tested? I have not yet bought the red YJ board and if this one is that much better, I may go for it.
Is it this one?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pc-TPA3116-Class-D-digital-amplifier-50W-50-W-with-Silent-Sleep-Design/1586764360.html
Help! My new Breeze 2.1 amp does not work properly!
Hi all,
Since this thread is where I got the link to Aliexpress for the Breeze 2.1 amp, and there are posts in this thread about that 2.1 amp, I figure that I should be able to get some useful advice here.
I just received my Breeze 2.1 amp yesterday. The amp came in a small beat-up cardboard box, wrapped in some flexible foam sheet. The packaging for the shipping surely did not look professional. The amp did not come with anything else, not even a user's manual. Even though I knew the amp is quite small when I ordered it, I was still a bit surprised by how tiny it really is.
I hooked the amp up to a pair of full-range speakers I made. Only the L and R channels were used, and the sub output was not connected to anything. The input signals came from a DVD player, and the amp was powered by a 24V DC switching power supply that I got from Parts Express. I noticed that the red LED on the front panel of the amp was on regardless of whether the power switch was in the ON or Off position.
I pressed the Play button on the DVD player, and music came out. So far so good. After only about 20 seconds, however, all of the sudden the music stopped, just when I was thinking: "Hmm, this little amp does not sound too bad." After a few seconds, the music came back. Then after a few seconds the music stopped again. The amp kept on cutting in and out. I then noticed that the intermittent operation of the amp was volume-dependent. With the volume knob was turned almost all the way to the lowest position, the amp would keep playing. When the volume was increased slightly, the amp started to mute itself intermittently. When the volume knob was at about the 12 o'clock position, the amp would keep switching on and off without playing any music.
To see if the problem was affected by the power supply voltage, I connected the amp to a 12V SLA battery. It appeared that the amp was able to play at a slightly higher volume before starting to skip, but the problem was still there.
I opened up the amp, and could not see anything obviously wrong. The two tiny heatsinks were attached to the chips. The soldering job, however, seemed quite shoddy. Did they solder those SMD components onto the circuit board by hand? Also, the 5600uF power supply cap is too tall -- it would push hard against the top cover of the amp when the top cover is on.
With the amp's top cover removed, I tried the amp again, and the problem was still there. I tested the temperature of the chips and the filter inductors by touching them, and they were just slightly warm.
I suspect that the intermittent operation of the amp was due to the amp's protection circuit kicking in when it shouldn't, but what could be causing that problem? Perhaps the protection circuit is mis-wired or uses some wrong components?
Any suggestions regarding what could be wrong, what to check, and how to solve the problem will be appreciated.
Kurt
Hi all,
Since this thread is where I got the link to Aliexpress for the Breeze 2.1 amp, and there are posts in this thread about that 2.1 amp, I figure that I should be able to get some useful advice here.
I just received my Breeze 2.1 amp yesterday. The amp came in a small beat-up cardboard box, wrapped in some flexible foam sheet. The packaging for the shipping surely did not look professional. The amp did not come with anything else, not even a user's manual. Even though I knew the amp is quite small when I ordered it, I was still a bit surprised by how tiny it really is.
I hooked the amp up to a pair of full-range speakers I made. Only the L and R channels were used, and the sub output was not connected to anything. The input signals came from a DVD player, and the amp was powered by a 24V DC switching power supply that I got from Parts Express. I noticed that the red LED on the front panel of the amp was on regardless of whether the power switch was in the ON or Off position.
I pressed the Play button on the DVD player, and music came out. So far so good. After only about 20 seconds, however, all of the sudden the music stopped, just when I was thinking: "Hmm, this little amp does not sound too bad." After a few seconds, the music came back. Then after a few seconds the music stopped again. The amp kept on cutting in and out. I then noticed that the intermittent operation of the amp was volume-dependent. With the volume knob was turned almost all the way to the lowest position, the amp would keep playing. When the volume was increased slightly, the amp started to mute itself intermittently. When the volume knob was at about the 12 o'clock position, the amp would keep switching on and off without playing any music.
To see if the problem was affected by the power supply voltage, I connected the amp to a 12V SLA battery. It appeared that the amp was able to play at a slightly higher volume before starting to skip, but the problem was still there.
I opened up the amp, and could not see anything obviously wrong. The two tiny heatsinks were attached to the chips. The soldering job, however, seemed quite shoddy. Did they solder those SMD components onto the circuit board by hand? Also, the 5600uF power supply cap is too tall -- it would push hard against the top cover of the amp when the top cover is on.
With the amp's top cover removed, I tried the amp again, and the problem was still there. I tested the temperature of the chips and the filter inductors by touching them, and they were just slightly warm.
I suspect that the intermittent operation of the amp was due to the amp's protection circuit kicking in when it shouldn't, but what could be causing that problem? Perhaps the protection circuit is mis-wired or uses some wrong components?
Any suggestions regarding what could be wrong, what to check, and how to solve the problem will be appreciated.
Kurt
I contacted them weeks ago and never heard back. I purchased my TPA3116 directly from YJ and found the packaging and shipping top notch, so I am surprised that no one has answered me yet. Given some of the problems people are having with the Breeze, I would love a YJ unit. My office setup desperately needs some low end.