Hello HP.
Your Daytons are 85db @1 watt and 1 mtr so you will hardly need any power to drive them, 5 Watts will be tood much!
See https://jlh1969classa.blogspot.com/p/watts.html for an explanation.
Cheers - Jim
Your Daytons are 85db @1 watt and 1 mtr so you will hardly need any power to drive them, 5 Watts will be tood much!
See https://jlh1969classa.blogspot.com/p/watts.html for an explanation.
Cheers - Jim
Thanx for your reply, Dayton's site does say "Sensitivity: 84 dB 1W/1m and Power handling: 40 watts RMS/80 watts max" but many reviewers suggest the sensitivity is lower then posted and will need some good amplification. From ASR "Sensitivity is very low though as noted so you need good bit of amplification."
@husupratt
Looks like something I would avoid if I can.If I have mains to power PC psu I can use it to produce 24V from a regular PS as well. Taking mains, converting them to 12V, then converting 12V to 24Volt with al the switching noise makes 100% no sense. You should use some metal case for the amp to avoid it disturbing all kinds of radio frequency. You can simply include an open 24V 7A open SMPS for maybe 12$ with it.
If you could tell us what you want, this amp may be wrong for you anyway. It has not even half the power it claims. Realistic are 30-50W.
Don't belive? https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
I do believe you and am aware of the actual rms power, in this video is bench test result of XH-M549 using 24v power supply, i know it's a different board but XH-641 should perform similarly as it has build in step up converter, if step up function works the way it's designed and i think it's sufficient enough for MK-402X, the only concern i have is using pc psu as power source for amplifier, can you elaborate more about switching notice i have no clue what that is? i was planning to just mount the amplifier board inside the pc case wire12v from PSU via pcie 12v power rail, have speaker output from motherboard to 3.5mm jack of the amp board then L/R speaker out from amp board to the speakers
Read the ALL of the page and do the simple maths 5 watts would be more than enough.
STOP reading the the rubbish and work it out for yourselves.
Do they give any indication of what the db rating might be, of course not!!
It's just RUBBISH!
Cheers - Jim
STOP reading the the rubbish and work it out for yourselves.
Do they give any indication of what the db rating might be, of course not!!
It's just RUBBISH!
Cheers - Jim
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are you saying review from amirm on ASR i posted above is rubbish did you even click on it? it has detailed info on the speaker even what you said is true about 5 watts what's wrong with getting an amp can do little more?
They refused to give a db rating, because that is the most important parameter of them all as far as power needed us concerned NOT Watts!!
I suggest you make a 5 Watt Class A amp much better then the Clas D rubbish. See what, I made on my site you can use an LED SMPS to power it. and if your use 12 volts you only need small heat sinks.
You'll never ever regret it, knowing that you have the finest amp ever designed, from 1923!
Cheers - Jim
I suggest you make a 5 Watt Class A amp much better then the Clas D rubbish. See what, I made on my site you can use an LED SMPS to power it. and if your use 12 volts you only need small heat sinks.
You'll never ever regret it, knowing that you have the finest amp ever designed, from 1923!
Cheers - Jim
honestly i am new to this and have no clue what you are saying about db rating but the review link has db all over the review, and can you suggest a 5w claas a amp?
The very first amps were Class A, Mr Voight filled the first cinemas with 1 Watt valve amps, 🙂
Please read every page here https://jlh1969classa.blogspot.com/ 12v in that JLH board will give you about 5.6 Watts
Cheers - Jim
Please read every page here https://jlh1969classa.blogspot.com/ 12v in that JLH board will give you about 5.6 Watts
Cheers - Jim
thanx but no thanx i rather spend $5-$10 for an already build board and use my old laptop 19v dc converter as power sourceThe very first amps were Class A, Mr Voight filled the first cinemas with 1 Watt valve amps, 🙂
Please read every page here https://jlh1969classa.blogspot.com/ 12v in that JLH board will give you about 5.6 Watts
Cheers - Jim
Hello HP,
I probably would have done the same, but, what will get to you just the same as it got to me is "I wonder what Class A is like?" and as it did to me it will constantly nag at you as you listen,
I merely offer the Class A solution as a shortcut, you will never need anything else.
Cheers - Jim
I probably would have done the same, but, what will get to you just the same as it got to me is "I wonder what Class A is like?" and as it did to me it will constantly nag at you as you listen,
I merely offer the Class A solution as a shortcut, you will never need anything else.
Cheers - Jim
i have an old school Onkyo HT AVR tx-nr9XX (flagship about 20 years ago) with pair of high end tower speaker (also relatively expensive 20 years ago), for now i'm just shopping to upgrade my cheap $10 pc speaker to something little better, not looking to spend too much time/effort/money.
after more reading/digging i have decided to go with 2x mono board + 2x 65w laptop power supply, i found a tpa3118d2 and 3 tpa3116d2 boards with slightly different chocks and capacitors, can someone give me a recommendation which one to get? thanx
22 uH output chokes and 0.68uF
10 uH output chokes and 1uF
10 uH output chokes and 1uF/63v
or
3118 mono with 10uH chokes
22 uH output chokes and 0.68uF
10 uH output chokes and 1uF
10 uH output chokes and 1uF/63v
or
3118 mono with 10uH chokes
For lower speaker impedance 10uH/1uF are preferrable.
btw, these chokes on al-cheapo pcbs often are underrated.
Which gives additional distortion.
btw, these chokes on al-cheapo pcbs often are underrated.
Which gives additional distortion.
I ended up getting the ZK-502H everything works fine except it has some hiss noise at about +50% volume, per my understanding to fix this I can lower the gain by removing/replacing r1 and/or r2, looks to me they are 39k and 100k but I don’t know which is which and which one should I remove/replace to make it 20db gain thanx
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hello every one
does anyone know what is the input sensitivity for the TPA3116d2?
i made this amp several times and the output power is slightly low i think 30w per channel even if i used the max gain my source is computer or mob or Bluetooth module and when i tried to go with some high level audio signals from computer the sound goes higher so i suspect it may be this chip needs a line level input 1Vrms or 1.2Vrms !!!
also most of chineese schematic use a single supply preamp to add extra gain may be for this reason i dunno!!
does anyone know what is the input sensitivity for the TPA3116d2?
i made this amp several times and the output power is slightly low i think 30w per channel even if i used the max gain my source is computer or mob or Bluetooth module and when i tried to go with some high level audio signals from computer the sound goes higher so i suspect it may be this chip needs a line level input 1Vrms or 1.2Vrms !!!
also most of chineese schematic use a single supply preamp to add extra gain may be for this reason i dunno!!
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