@ Puffin & king4joy,
I am very sorry to hear that Puffin has received a defect XH-M590 board.
"Imported chips" may not be an issue as most chips are made in central Asia with China as an important producer.
I have a number of TPA3116 amplifier boards ranging from $4 to $11, stereo and mono. None of my boards had a chip-defect (I can hear at least). I doubt that "genuine import" is an issue. More of my boards had inconvenient or straight out flawed component values mounted. Such may be another reason.
It would have been useful to know the reason for this defect but such analysis is not simple. I hope that the replacement board will work as expected.
I am very sorry to hear that Puffin has received a defect XH-M590 board.
"Imported chips" may not be an issue as most chips are made in central Asia with China as an important producer.
I have a number of TPA3116 amplifier boards ranging from $4 to $11, stereo and mono. None of my boards had a chip-defect (I can hear at least). I doubt that "genuine import" is an issue. More of my boards had inconvenient or straight out flawed component values mounted. Such may be another reason.
It would have been useful to know the reason for this defect but such analysis is not simple. I hope that the replacement board will work as expected.
@ Puffin & king4joy,
I am very sorry to hear that Puffin has received a defect XH-M590 board.
"Imported chips" may not be an issue as most chips are made in central Asia with China as an important producer.
I have a number of TPA3116 amplifier boards ranging from $4 to $11, stereo and mono. None of my boards had a chip-defect (I can hear at least). I doubt that "genuine import" is an issue. More of my boards had inconvenient or straight out flawed component values mounted. Such may be another reason.
It would have been useful to know the reason for this defect but such analysis is not simple. I hope that the replacement board will work as expected.
I have bought many boards over the years with very few problems. The seller is sending another one. I will report back when I receive it.
I am very sorry to hear that Puffin has received a defect XH-M590 board.
"Imported chips" may not be an issue as most chips are made in central Asia with China as an important producer.
I have a number of TPA3116 amplifier boards ranging from $4 to $11, stereo and mono. None of my boards had a chip-defect (I can hear at least). I doubt that "genuine import" is an issue. More of my boards had inconvenient or straight out flawed component values mounted. Such may be another reason.
It would have been useful to know the reason for this defect but such analysis is not simple. I hope that the replacement board will work as expected.
I have bought many boards over the years with very few problems. The seller is sending another one. I will report back when I receive it.
Hello
Thanks for all the great info from this Thread
Would like to ask for some help, is there any different between this boards ?
DC12-24V High Power 100W*2 TPA3116D2 Digital Power Amplifier Board XH-M590 X0M4 | eBay
High Power 100W*2 TPA3116D2 Digital Power Amplifier Board XH-M590 New 2020 C4X6 | eBay
KYYSLB DC12 24V גבוהה כוח 100W * 2 TPA3116D2 דיגיטלי מגבר כוח לוח XH M590 בית אודיו מגבר לוח 2 ~ 8 אוהם|מגבר| - AliExpress
Thanks in advance
Udi
Thanks for all the great info from this Thread
Would like to ask for some help, is there any different between this boards ?
DC12-24V High Power 100W*2 TPA3116D2 Digital Power Amplifier Board XH-M590 X0M4 | eBay
High Power 100W*2 TPA3116D2 Digital Power Amplifier Board XH-M590 New 2020 C4X6 | eBay
KYYSLB DC12 24V גבוהה כוח 100W * 2 TPA3116D2 דיגיטלי מגבר כוח לוח XH M590 בית אודיו מגבר לוח 2 ~ 8 אוהם|מגבר| - AliExpress
Thanks in advance
Udi
Yes, the end-supplier . The manufacturer is no doubt the same.
Many would perhaps like to support local industry in these Covid-19 times where our economies may be hit hard. When it comes to cheap electronics manufacture, the source is in most cases the same. You can buy a product more-or-less directly from the source or from E-bay or similar that leaves us with an impression of not really being aware of who produces such goods. You can sometimes buy it from fancy HiFi-shops and imagine it is another class of product.
Depending on the end-supplier, some trade expenses are added to the original price and the delivery time and eventual service may vary. But, where it is made -> central Asia.
. The manufacturer is no doubt the same.Many would perhaps like to support local industry in these Covid-19 times where our economies may be hit hard. When it comes to cheap electronics manufacture, the source is in most cases the same. You can buy a product more-or-less directly from the source or from E-bay or similar that leaves us with an impression of not really being aware of who produces such goods. You can sometimes buy it from fancy HiFi-shops and imagine it is another class of product.
Depending on the end-supplier, some trade expenses are added to the original price and the delivery time and eventual service may vary. But, where it is made -> central Asia.
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Hey yall, new user here. I've got an Aiyima A03 (TPA3116d2 x 2, 2.1 setup) and found the subwoofer output to be underwhelming in volume and extension. I've looked around a ton, and found some 4.7uF (or higher) input cap mods help out to get deeper bass, as well as changing out some output caps.
I've done some research and noted all caps on the board (See attached file). It seems like the input cap for the subwoofer channel is already a 10uF cap. The output is still the default .68uF cap. I was thinking of swapping them to a WIMA MKS4 since the MKP4 is too big to fit. This leads me to a couple of questions, since I'm completely new to (modding) amp circuitry:
1) Can someone confirm my findings on the board regarding the input filter and output filters are correct?
2) Would swapping out the 684's to 1uF indeed help with outputting deeper bass?
3) Would I need to change anything else on the board if I want to swap these caps?
Of course, any other input or help would be appreciated!
Input cap source
Output filter cap source
The image attached is a photo (not take by me, but same board) with all the caps marked with their specs.
Thanks in advance!
I've done some research and noted all caps on the board (See attached file). It seems like the input cap for the subwoofer channel is already a 10uF cap. The output is still the default .68uF cap. I was thinking of swapping them to a WIMA MKS4 since the MKP4 is too big to fit. This leads me to a couple of questions, since I'm completely new to (modding) amp circuitry:
1) Can someone confirm my findings on the board regarding the input filter and output filters are correct?
2) Would swapping out the 684's to 1uF indeed help with outputting deeper bass?
3) Would I need to change anything else on the board if I want to swap these caps?
Of course, any other input or help would be appreciated!
Input cap source
Output filter cap source
The image attached is a photo (not take by me, but same board) with all the caps marked with their specs.
Thanks in advance!
Attachments
The output filter is a low pass filter so it affects the highs. I wouldn't worry about it, there's nothing to gain for bass. The output filter you can adjust depending on the impedance of your speakers, but it would matter for the highs. Theoretically you should have the output filter adjusted depending on the impedance of your speaker. That one size fits all is usually a good enough compromise for most speakers.
The input filter (that 10uF cap + input impedance of the tpa3116) is what would eat into the bass. But with 10uF I don't think there's any problem there as even on the lowest impedance of the chip input (9k) the 10uF is still allowing for all the bass to go into the chip. For the highs it's opposite to the bass. The input filter does nothing but the output one matters.
Maybe the input opamps stuff? But I see you have a bass adjustment.
What subwoofer are you trying to power? What specs does it have? The tpa3116 is an "up to 100W" for a 2 ohm load. No way to get there for an 8 ohm sub. You get around 50W of cleanish power into 4 ohm speakers, in PBTL mode.
Did you ever power that sub with another amp? Was it more rewarding? Did you try to position the sub differently?
Also what power supply are you using? What voltage/current rating?
The input filter (that 10uF cap + input impedance of the tpa3116) is what would eat into the bass. But with 10uF I don't think there's any problem there as even on the lowest impedance of the chip input (9k) the 10uF is still allowing for all the bass to go into the chip. For the highs it's opposite to the bass. The input filter does nothing but the output one matters.
Maybe the input opamps stuff? But I see you have a bass adjustment.
What subwoofer are you trying to power? What specs does it have? The tpa3116 is an "up to 100W" for a 2 ohm load. No way to get there for an 8 ohm sub. You get around 50W of cleanish power into 4 ohm speakers, in PBTL mode.
Did you ever power that sub with another amp? Was it more rewarding? Did you try to position the sub differently?
Also what power supply are you using? What voltage/current rating?
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Thanks for your response! A quick on eat that
You make good points. No real hope for the input and output caps.
There are 2 knobs for the bass. One adjusts the frequency cutoff / crossover, the other the volume.
The woofers I have tried are a Rockford Fosgate RFZ3412 Punch Z 12 An old car subwoofer. Not the greatest usecase, but it should work. It's in a smaller sealed enclosure. I'd guess around 30L, around the recommended size according to its specsheet. The specs are the following:
- 4 ohm
- 150w RMS
- 90dB at 1 watt
- Freq Response of 25-200 Hz
It sounded way better in the car. I used a JVC DR3004 to power it with 180w (bridged mode). It's still attached, but I have no real way to power it atm (I don't have a 12v power supply)
Aside from that, I've also paired up the subwoofer from the Logitech Z623. I can't find any real specs of the subwoofer, aside form the RMS, which should be 130 watts.
What I can tell about this woofer, is that it was way louder, fuller and deeper with its own integrated circuit. I just wired it up through its vent port, so I'd think there shouldn't be a real noticeable difference for it's enclosure.
As for power supplies, I've tried the following two:
Chinese 24V 4.5A brick, from the Aiyima store
19V 9.5A laptop charging brick
Maybe there is still something to gain from the opamp input, though I wouldn't know which one to to change.
Last thing I tried is changing it location physically, but it seems to be the best at it's current location.
Again, thanks in advance!
You make good points. No real hope for the input and output caps.
There are 2 knobs for the bass. One adjusts the frequency cutoff / crossover, the other the volume.
The woofers I have tried are a Rockford Fosgate RFZ3412 Punch Z 12 An old car subwoofer. Not the greatest usecase, but it should work. It's in a smaller sealed enclosure. I'd guess around 30L, around the recommended size according to its specsheet. The specs are the following:
- 4 ohm
- 150w RMS
- 90dB at 1 watt
- Freq Response of 25-200 Hz
It sounded way better in the car. I used a JVC DR3004 to power it with 180w (bridged mode). It's still attached, but I have no real way to power it atm (I don't have a 12v power supply)
Aside from that, I've also paired up the subwoofer from the Logitech Z623. I can't find any real specs of the subwoofer, aside form the RMS, which should be 130 watts.
What I can tell about this woofer, is that it was way louder, fuller and deeper with its own integrated circuit. I just wired it up through its vent port, so I'd think there shouldn't be a real noticeable difference for it's enclosure.
As for power supplies, I've tried the following two:
Chinese 24V 4.5A brick, from the Aiyima store
19V 9.5A laptop charging brick
Maybe there is still something to gain from the opamp input, though I wouldn't know which one to to change.
Last thing I tried is changing it location physically, but it seems to be the best at it's current location.
Again, thanks in advance!
I really need some advice. I bought a TPA3116 amp from Banggood called Wuzhi Audio 2x100W ( 1002 hifi 2x100w tpa3116 ) which I have connected to my Chromecast Audio via the 3.5mm jack.
This is powered by a 24V 5A power supply also from Banggood ( 24v 5a 120w ).
I have this hooked up to a single dual voice channel speaker, the Dayton Audio ME652C 6-1/2". It has both channels in a single speaker (2 tweeters).
But I am not completely happy with the result. I feel like if I turn up the volume to much on the Chromecast Audio the sound is no longer clear.
Do you have any idea what can cause this? I have the amplifier volume set to 1/4 of the volume. Maybe the power supply is too powerful for the speaker?
I am thinking of adding a second speaker (same model) to the same amp. And connecting it via paralell. The speakers are 8 Ohm, and connecting 2 in paralell should make it 4 Ohm, and the amplifier should be capable of this?
This is powered by a 24V 5A power supply also from Banggood ( 24v 5a 120w ).
I have this hooked up to a single dual voice channel speaker, the Dayton Audio ME652C 6-1/2". It has both channels in a single speaker (2 tweeters).
But I am not completely happy with the result. I feel like if I turn up the volume to much on the Chromecast Audio the sound is no longer clear.
Do you have any idea what can cause this? I have the amplifier volume set to 1/4 of the volume. Maybe the power supply is too powerful for the speaker?
I am thinking of adding a second speaker (same model) to the same amp. And connecting it via paralell. The speakers are 8 Ohm, and connecting 2 in paralell should make it 4 Ohm, and the amplifier should be capable of this?
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Thanks for your response! A quick on eat that
You make good points. No real hope for the input and output caps.
There are 2 knobs for the bass. One adjusts the frequency cutoff / crossover, the other the volume.
The woofers I have tried are a Rockford Fosgate RFZ3412 Punch Z 12 An old car subwoofer. Not the greatest usecase, but it should work. It's in a smaller sealed enclosure. I'd guess around 30L, around the recommended size according to its specsheet. The specs are the following:
- 4 ohm
- 150w RMS
- 90dB at 1 watt
- Freq Response of 25-200 Hz
It sounded way better in the car. I used a JVC DR3004 to power it with 180w (bridged mode). It's still attached, but I have no real way to power it atm (I don't have a 12v power supply)
Aside from that, I've also paired up the subwoofer from the Logitech Z623. I can't find any real specs of the subwoofer, aside form the RMS, which should be 130 watts.
What I can tell about this woofer, is that it was way louder, fuller and deeper with its own integrated circuit. I just wired it up through its vent port, so I'd think there shouldn't be a real noticeable difference for it's enclosure.
As for power supplies, I've tried the following two:
Chinese 24V 4.5A brick, from the Aiyima store
19V 9.5A laptop charging brick
Maybe there is still something to gain from the opamp input, though I wouldn't know which one to to change.
Last thing I tried is changing it location physically, but it seems to be the best at it's current location.
Again, thanks in advance!
The car subwoofer won't sound good in a room. They are tweaked to work with the small volume of the car/trunk. You shouldn't consider that. They are for car use. Also 4 ohm which means the tpa3116 can at best push 50W into it. That's 1/3 of the subwoofer's power.
The Logitech sub might be a 8ohm sub as I found some info online. You get max 25W or so into it from the tpa3116. You could confirm that by measuring the resistance of the sub with a multimeter.
Also, for 100W into 2ohm with a 26V supply it needs to output 4A only for the subwoofer.
The opamp circuit could mess things up a bit but I think it's used as a filter/buffer for the subwoofer controls.
You're best to find a 2ohm subwoofer if you want the max power out of the tpa3116 but 2ohm subs are more for cars.
That logitech sub is pretty ok at 8ohm/130W, I think someone said it's a 200W sub but driven at 130W max with the logitech amp inside it. So I would just get a 150-200W amp for that sub, that can drive 150-200W into 8ohms. I'd look for a class D design so it's somewhat compact considering the power supply as well.
That is one strange speaker. I think it has two coils on the subwoofer, and has two separate tweeters integrated.
You first need to make sure you don't reverse the +/- connections on the speaker. Doing that would reverse the phase on one of the coils and would cancel eachother out.
I'm not keen on paralleling passive crossovers. I think you'd be better off if you used a 2.1 type tpa3116 amp wired this way. the two left/right to the tweeters, and the .1 subwoofer connection to the SW connection but you need to rip the wires from the passive crossover and wire them in parallel. You also need to take the +/- into account and not reverse them.
I showed here in pink the subwoofer connections:
With a 2.1 board you could go even further and limit the frequency from the input caps. You put 100nF instead of 1uF-2.2uF that they come with, so as to limit the bass going to the two channels. That way you can also bypass the passive crossover on the speaker, completely. You can take it out physically. The input cap should be adjusted for the input high pass filter so that it gets to the same frequency that the passive crossover is doing on the speaker. Without photos of the backside of the crossover on the speaker it's harder to say how it's wired up, to derive the crossover frequency. It's doable but needs some extra work.
Another problem is the amp might not need so much gain, so then you up the volume on the chromecast until you hear some distortion, back it up a bit so it's clear, then you use the amplifier knob to raise the volume, see if that sounds better at higher volume.
That would make a lot of sense, thanks for the info!
I'm currently looking at two different ones, again from Aiyima:
300w RPA3255D2
600w TAS5630
The 300w @ 4ohm seems nice, and has a power adapter included which, theoretically, could supply 160w.
The 600w @ 4 ohm looks better for what it's worth, but might be a bit overkill. I would need te get a seperate powersupply for it too, which bumps the price up a lot more.
Do you know anything about these amps? It'd be nice to hear what you think about them, or have any other suggestions.
I'm also thinking, maybe I could use the powersupply of the sub itself somehow.
Then the last thing is looking up if I can get a single volume control for both the amps at once.
Thanks again for your insight!
I'm currently looking at two different ones, again from Aiyima:
300w RPA3255D2
600w TAS5630
The 300w @ 4ohm seems nice, and has a power adapter included which, theoretically, could supply 160w.
The 600w @ 4 ohm looks better for what it's worth, but might be a bit overkill. I would need te get a seperate powersupply for it too, which bumps the price up a lot more.
Do you know anything about these amps? It'd be nice to hear what you think about them, or have any other suggestions.
I'm also thinking, maybe I could use the powersupply of the sub itself somehow.
Then the last thing is looking up if I can get a single volume control for both the amps at once.
Thanks again for your insight!
Looking at the datasheet for TPA3255D2 I don't see anything for 8ohm on PBTL, and you'd need about 42V power supply for that.
TAS5630 looks more promising and needs a 48V supply for 100W into 8 ohms. Power supply should be at least 3A for 48V for the subwoofer. 42V is a common voltage for 10S li-ion battery pack chargers. E-bikes and such. Maybe you could source one that way for the 3255D2.
I'd go with the TAS5630 for sub duties. Keep in mind these are around 85-90% efficient, that means around 15W as heat into the heatsinks at 100W output. I'm not sure how much of the time the amp is at 100W output but do keep that in mind.
Regarding the Logitech power supply it seems integrated into the amp, it's one board for power supply + amplifier stuff:
I would use it as it's matched to the sub and already has the filter for the sub. I don't know what the problem is with it, does it work? Theoretically you should be able to bypass everything, plug line level signal into the back of the sub and have it working but you need a line level signal for the sub, apart from the one that goes to your stereo speakers. 2.1 amplifier boards put out speaker level signal so you can't use that. You need left/right + another channel for the subwoofer from your sound source, like sound card/dac or whatever you are using. Using just the power supply is not an option as you don't know its voltage/current rating, and you're stuck with all of the audio amp circuit on it as well.