So what electronics should go into an amplifier according to you?
I don't see why gain control is a must, tons of people here work with TPA3116 boards without gain control.
Also input cap mods are being done here all the time, I don't see what makes this board special in that respect.
What is your personal experience with TPA3116 / TPA3118 boards?
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Sorry if this is a stupid question (I'm new to all this) but what's the difference between using a pre-amp like e https://www.yuan-jing.com/6n3-6z4-rectifier-vacuum-tube-pre-amplifier-transformer-a and using a potmeter on the tpa3116 inputs to control volume?
Input source would be a Chromecast Audio -> 6N3/6Z4 Preamp -> 2x TPA3118
I want to create an integrated Chromecast amp with just an on/off switch, volume control and speaker output.
I already have the pre-amp, 2 mono Sanwu TPA3118 boards (and a spare YJ TPA3116D2 board), I just haven't gotten around to put anything together.
I want to create an integrated Chromecast amp with just an on/off switch, volume control and speaker output.
I already have the pre-amp, 2 mono Sanwu TPA3118 boards (and a spare YJ TPA3116D2 board), I just haven't gotten around to put anything together.
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Chromecast output is ~2Vrms, this already is way to high for Sanwu, standard Sanwu probably reaches maximum output with 350mV signal, but you want to add 20 times YJ tube-amplifier in between also and then you will never listen to maximum output, but listen to 2V output when you listen loud 
Chromecast has drv632 driver for volumecontrol I believe, so I think you can controll volume without tubeamp too. Reducing gainsetting Sanwu to minimum is also without tubeamp an improvement. I don't think keeping the chromecast in low dynamic setting is high quality option, that does reduce output chromecast to 1Vrms I believe, but reduces more than just that.
Chromecast has drv632 driver for volumecontrol I believe, so I think you can controll volume without tubeamp too. Reducing gainsetting Sanwu to minimum is also without tubeamp an improvement. I don't think keeping the chromecast in low dynamic setting is high quality option, that does reduce output chromecast to 1Vrms I believe, but reduces more than just that.A while ago, tempted by all the great info in this thread, I got my hands on a SANWU amp, as described here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-951.html#post4846399
I really enjoy this amp, and wanted to see if I could get something with a better (lower) bass response. I'm impressed with the sound of this amp, so I was pleased to find that SANWU do a 2.1 amplifier, with frequency control on the bass output.
TPA3116 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Board 12V-24V Power | eBay
I've just landed one of these, and I have a few questions for the more experienced members here:
1. I'm considering a 'bucket sub', with 8" driver, as discussed on this forum. Will this amp have the guts to drive it or should I look at something else - maybe a subwoofer tube like this:
Pyle PLTB8 8-Inch 400-Watt Carpeted Subwoofer Tube,Standard Packaging,voice coil | eBay
My listening environment is smallish, about 12' x 20' and I typically listen at low volume.
2. What alternatives (for bass) are suggested, that will suit this particular amp?
3. Are there any mods I can do to prevent the switch on/off pop (it's particularly noticeable on the bass, with the volume turned right down), or should I use something like this:
[1x] 3CH Current output loudspeaker delay protection circuit board support BTL
I've tested the new amp, with a (very small) full range cabinet on the bass output, and the frequency pot on the amp does indeed seem to do what it claims, although I had to keep the volume really low to prevent damage to speaker components.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-951.html#post4846399
I really enjoy this amp, and wanted to see if I could get something with a better (lower) bass response. I'm impressed with the sound of this amp, so I was pleased to find that SANWU do a 2.1 amplifier, with frequency control on the bass output.
TPA3116 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Board 12V-24V Power | eBay
I've just landed one of these, and I have a few questions for the more experienced members here:
1. I'm considering a 'bucket sub', with 8" driver, as discussed on this forum. Will this amp have the guts to drive it or should I look at something else - maybe a subwoofer tube like this:
Pyle PLTB8 8-Inch 400-Watt Carpeted Subwoofer Tube,Standard Packaging,voice coil | eBay
My listening environment is smallish, about 12' x 20' and I typically listen at low volume.
2. What alternatives (for bass) are suggested, that will suit this particular amp?
3. Are there any mods I can do to prevent the switch on/off pop (it's particularly noticeable on the bass, with the volume turned right down), or should I use something like this:
[1x] 3CH Current output loudspeaker delay protection circuit board support BTL
I've tested the new amp, with a (very small) full range cabinet on the bass output, and the frequency pot on the amp does indeed seem to do what it claims, although I had to keep the volume really low to prevent damage to speaker components.
Chromecast output is ~2Vrms, this already is way to high for Sanwu, standard Sanwu probably reaches maximum output with 350mV signal, but you want to add 20 times YJ tube-amplifier in between also and then you will never listen to maximum output, but listen to 2V output when you listen loud
I'm not really following what you're saying (my bad)...
This is the 6N3/6Z4 PreAmp -> 2x TPA3118 setup that I wanted to copy:
https://www.reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/5fkqda/assembled_my_bookshelf_amp/
So are you saying I'd run into trouble if I'd use that setup with Chromecast Audio?
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I got four of these to run a set of actively crossed line arrays with 2x12" subwoofers for the bottom end. The subs were 2 ohms when paralleled, so these boards were among the only ones that would have worked at all.
They sound okay. These replaced a LM4766 with a linear supply and have at least as much output. Sound quality is not a priority or an expectation (for me personally) when using Class D, but they're cheap, rugged and run very cool. The single supply voltage also makes powering them quite easy.
That 'huge' capacitor is mounted on a little plastic separator, which is not properly attached and rattles like mad. I had to desolder the caps, remove the offending appendage and decided to put in some better units anyway.
Also, it needs a balanced signal to reach full output but even with the negative input grounded, there's plenty of gain from a little Chinese BT/MP3 player and an active crossover. The array sensitivity being above 95dB/w also helps. I bought them when they were about $6.50 each, and was satisfied given my low expectations and non-critical application.
Hi guys, I just recently bought this board: New TPA3116 DC12-24V 50W+50W Dual-Channel Audio Speaker Digital Amplifier Board | eBay and if understood right it should be one of the better ones. I am going to change that pot to 10k stereo logarithmic as suggested here.
I run it with this PSU: https://www.amazon.com/Targus-APM10US-Mobile-Universal-Adapter/dp/B0001JXAAC?th=1 which i know is not very good but its the one i had when the board arrived.
My current speakers are some crappy logitech ones but I got nice deal of 80 euros for two Epos ESL-3 bookshelf speakers which are going to arrive soon.
Am i able to run my new speakers with this board? Im totally newbie with this stuff so any tips are more than welcome, I have read first 300 pages of this thread but im sure there is something useful i have yet to learn. Any mods I should do besides pot change? Im thinking of adding bluetooth module but my knowledge of how to do that is pretty limited, i only know that this board has points where i can solder lm78m05 regulator so i could power the bluetooth module straight from the board itself.
I run it with this PSU: https://www.amazon.com/Targus-APM10US-Mobile-Universal-Adapter/dp/B0001JXAAC?th=1 which i know is not very good but its the one i had when the board arrived.
My current speakers are some crappy logitech ones but I got nice deal of 80 euros for two Epos ESL-3 bookshelf speakers which are going to arrive soon.
Am i able to run my new speakers with this board? Im totally newbie with this stuff so any tips are more than welcome, I have read first 300 pages of this thread but im sure there is something useful i have yet to learn. Any mods I should do besides pot change? Im thinking of adding bluetooth module but my knowledge of how to do that is pretty limited, i only know that this board has points where i can solder lm78m05 regulator so i could power the bluetooth module straight from the board itself.
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There seems to be a price error in that eBay link. Price should be somewhere in $7.5 to $12 range for a board like that.
That board appears to have 15uH output inductors and 0.68uF output capacitors, so it should work quite well with the 4-ohm Epos ESL-3 speakers.
Not sure about the PSU you linked to. Amazon page does not even specify the output voltage. You should get a 24V 5A power adapter for that board.
That board appears to have 15uH output inductors and 0.68uF output capacitors, so it should work quite well with the 4-ohm Epos ESL-3 speakers.
Not sure about the PSU you linked to. Amazon page does not even specify the output voltage. You should get a 24V 5A power adapter for that board.
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Thanks for your input, i checked that ebay link and smiled a little, i can assure you i didnt pay 200$ for this board. I paid aroud 18$ which was still a bit overpriced but as it was last one and a friend of mine recommended it I just went and paid few $ extra.
This psu I have is a "smart charger" as it changes the output voltage depending on which type of charging tip is attached. I went and checked it with multimeter and with this tip attached it gives little over 19V and 3,3A. However i have small apartment and i dont need those speakers to get super loud at the moment so this psu will do its job. I assume only downside of lower power psu is that it limits amps power output as well?
Talking about the output inductors, so far I have seen these numbers: 100, 150, 330. The higher the number, the more performance on low impedance speakers? I need one for a 4ohm load, which is a 3way 6x9.
I am tempted to build something using one of these boards, a 6x9 speaker, and this little 12v bluetooth device which I think it would be better connecting one of them to a non bluetooth board, so now you can use remote control and some extra functions at affordable price. This thing is about 6 dollar only. Because it is stereo, and I want only one speaker, can connect both wires to the amp input using some resistors, so the signal is mixed together. What do you think?
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I got this board today. Right off the bat it's crisper than my red dual chip. The pot has acceptable balance at low volumes, but it gets loud very quickly. There are no on/off pops. I wouldn't worry too much about the speakers you use it with, it should work with most at normal listening levels.
