hey guys, does someone have some experience with this board?
DC 12V 24V 120W*2 TPA3116 Dual Channel digital Power audio amplifier board amp | eBay
I see it also has some kind of buffer operational amplifier on the input and it's a dual chip design with 100W output
DC 12V 24V 120W*2 TPA3116 Dual Channel digital Power audio amplifier board amp | eBay
I see it also has some kind of buffer operational amplifier on the input and it's a dual chip design with 100W output
I'll see if his mod is applicable to XH-M190.
If I lower the gain on the 3116 board, use the pot on it, while having a preamp with no pot, does that make sense? Or does it potentially increase the noise?
These boards sound pretty good.
Tried guessing that the board was in master mode and removed the 100k resistors. It helped. Lowered gain. Hiss is barely audible. Even quieter than the Sanwu TPA3118 boards. Also sounds more powerful.
Are you sure it is a dual chip design? The picture of the bottom of the board only shows one set of solder "vias" under a single chip located in the center of the board. I would have expected to see to sets of solder pad vias under two TPA3116D2 chips.
I suspect it is a single chip design, and not in PBTL mode. The 120 watts might be more "marketing" than anything else.
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They don't state how long it will continue to run at 2x120W into 2ohm.
I suspect something would HMC before too long.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_Cook
J.
I'm not so sure that's why I asked...but judging by the same design but for only a single channel mono board, it might look like on the bigger one there are indeed 2 chips under the heatsink ; check it out
DC 12V-24V 100W TPA3116DA Mono Channel digital audio amplifier board Verstärker | eBay
I'm using a passive pot for volume control. It doesn't seem to be a big problem. In any case, this board has an OP amp, which, one presumes, would be between the input pots and the amps and present a constant, low impedance.
The pots are goofy, but I assume they are just there as cheap, fixed, balance control.
TPA3116 has the thermal pad on top. TPA3118 has it on bottom. So, PCB is less important. Those vias may just be stitching together the ground plane, note that there are is another large cluster of vias on the edge.
Still, I don't think I'd buy one of these boards, given the problems people have had with electrolytic caps dying on other XH boards.
I've been working with the TPA3118 boards, but you are right, it is not necessary to solder the thermal pad to the PC board with the TPA3116. The set of solder vias in the center of the board might just be to connect the ground layers.
For that, you might be right... It might easily be two chips.
On the other hand, looking at the top view of the PC board, the 4 capacitors leading from the preamp IC to the TPA3116 all have pc traces going towards my suspected location of a single chip located in the center of the board.
Which one of us is right? We'll know once somebody gets one and removes the heat-sink.
J. L.
Hey Guys!
Could you please help me finding some amp or amp module to me? I'd like to put an amp and a tablet in a car, that has 4ohm factory speakers. (2X6.5', 2X6.5', 2Xtweeter)
I don't need much power and I don't need a sub and 2 channels would be just OK for me (don't need 4 channel amp). The factory speakers are not high level.
I saw Lepai 2020A+ amplifiers build in cars but I can not find with original Tripath TA2020 chip on the cheap. (Parts-Electric or Amazon use really high shipping cost to my country, it would be around 60USD)
Now I found this thread about TPA3116 amps. Can I use them in the car (12V) with 4ohm speakers if I don't need too much volume? Which board would you recommend for this project?
Breeze Audio TPA3116 boxed amp also seems to be really nice.
Thanks!
Could you please help me finding some amp or amp module to me? I'd like to put an amp and a tablet in a car, that has 4ohm factory speakers. (2X6.5', 2X6.5', 2Xtweeter)
I don't need much power and I don't need a sub and 2 channels would be just OK for me (don't need 4 channel amp). The factory speakers are not high level.
I saw Lepai 2020A+ amplifiers build in cars but I can not find with original Tripath TA2020 chip on the cheap. (Parts-Electric or Amazon use really high shipping cost to my country, it would be around 60USD)
Now I found this thread about TPA3116 amps. Can I use them in the car (12V) with 4ohm speakers if I don't need too much volume? Which board would you recommend for this project?
Breeze Audio TPA3116 boxed amp also seems to be really nice.
Thanks!
For in-car, you can try it with 12-14V off the car battery/alternator but you may find you also need a boost converter to increase the amplifier voltage.
Any of the "200W" or "400W" converters off eBay might do the trick. You won't get more than 120W out of them before losses. Typical blurb is "....maximum output is 10A x input voltage".
J.
Thanks! I see I may need a boost converter. But which board should I buy? Is there any highly recommended TPA3116 board or boxed amp on the market that meets my needs? There are too many versions and I'm a little bit confused now.
Thx!
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If you're talking boxed, there are a few out there....
The boxed Breeze is pretty much the cheapest and possibly the smallest boxed. There are also amps badged NOBSOUND, some of which have Bluetooth. Have a look around Amazon and eBay. Similar looking amps (identical?) seem to appear in several price ranges under different brands.
One option rather than a DC DC converter board is to look for a car laptop power supply.
If you're running wired connection to the amp from the source, also invest in a GLI. Ground Loop Isolator.
The boxed Breeze is pretty much the cheapest and possibly the smallest boxed. There are also amps badged NOBSOUND, some of which have Bluetooth. Have a look around Amazon and eBay. Similar looking amps (identical?) seem to appear in several price ranges under different brands.
One option rather than a DC DC converter board is to look for a car laptop power supply.
If you're running wired connection to the amp from the source, also invest in a GLI. Ground Loop Isolator.
Be aware that multiple digital amps in close proximity to each other can/will cause noise. On a properly designed multi-chip board, one chip is the master and the other a slave so that they are running on the same high freq oscillator. Multiple boards should not be used in tight quarters together because it is not feasible to sync all the chips between boards.
I had deep reading on Bluetooth sound quality this weekend and like reffer to head-fi.org forum to correct myself. I mentioned that BT is suspicious in terms of quality but my experience was limited. Nowadays there are Apt-x low latency receivers\transmittes like made by Avantree, TaoTronics and others (not so much but..)
Back to practics. Does it worth to pay about $40 for receiver, mean you have apt-x enabled source in Android\iOS device? - seems to be so. I think there is no reason to buy BT capable amp because they obviously loose to dedicated apt-x pair.
Please excuse me this flashback.
nb. even apt-x isn't really clear path. I would suggest reading of SoundExpert comparision charts to get some idea (here)
Back to practics. Does it worth to pay about $40 for receiver, mean you have apt-x enabled source in Android\iOS device? - seems to be so. I think there is no reason to buy BT capable amp because they obviously loose to dedicated apt-x pair.
Please excuse me this flashback.
nb. even apt-x isn't really clear path. I would suggest reading of SoundExpert comparision charts to get some idea (here)
Last I looked, iOS didn't support the AptX codec. It does support AAC over A2DP, but you need a receiver with that capability as well.
If you look at the SoundExpert comparison charts, even SBC, which is the lowest-common-denominator codec all Bluetooth A2DP must support, at worst produces artifacts at the edge of human perception, and is, on average, imperceptibly different from the source material. Oh, important caveat: at or above 320kbps.
In my limited testing, I can pretty consistently maintain that data rate over bluetooth between my laptop and a nearby (3ft away) bluetooth speaker. I'm doing so in a neighborhood of closely spaced single family homes, though, surprisingly, there are only a few nearby 2.4GHz WiFi networks. With a little more distance though, reliable bitrate drops. According to the SoundExpert comparisons, at ~220kbps SBC will produce detectable artifacts on most of the test samples.
I think that while acceptable sound quality is achievable on Bluetooth, the only good reason for using it is convenience. Getting a matched receiver + transmitter with AptX support sounds like a long way to go to get, at best, acceptable sound quantity. Given that, I think a bluetooth amp might make sense, but only in situations where Bluetooth is the primary connection method, and line-input is either unneeded, or of diminished importance (because most of the bluetooth amp options either lack line-in, or have other problems with line-in).
If you look at the SoundExpert comparison charts, even SBC, which is the lowest-common-denominator codec all Bluetooth A2DP must support, at worst produces artifacts at the edge of human perception, and is, on average, imperceptibly different from the source material. Oh, important caveat: at or above 320kbps.
In my limited testing, I can pretty consistently maintain that data rate over bluetooth between my laptop and a nearby (3ft away) bluetooth speaker. I'm doing so in a neighborhood of closely spaced single family homes, though, surprisingly, there are only a few nearby 2.4GHz WiFi networks. With a little more distance though, reliable bitrate drops. According to the SoundExpert comparisons, at ~220kbps SBC will produce detectable artifacts on most of the test samples.
I think that while acceptable sound quality is achievable on Bluetooth, the only good reason for using it is convenience. Getting a matched receiver + transmitter with AptX support sounds like a long way to go to get, at best, acceptable sound quantity. Given that, I think a bluetooth amp might make sense, but only in situations where Bluetooth is the primary connection method, and line-input is either unneeded, or of diminished importance (because most of the bluetooth amp options either lack line-in, or have other problems with line-in).
The problem with SBC is, it will most likely be recompressed which is not transparent. Recompressing an already compressed audio format makes things really worse. I never liked SBC audio, it always sounded dull to me. The CSR modules (even 8635) support direct streaming MP3 and AAC over A2DP even VBR.
Thanks Guys!
I think I get these:
Breeze Audio finished
TPA3116 board
Will try them in the car, and if the board is OK, I can use the Breeze Audio in home stereo.
Is this boost converter OK? What max. voltage can I use with 4ohm speakers? I have to avoid heating issues.
Is this ground loop isolator OK for the job?
Thanks a lot!
Is not the speaker impedance you must be concerned with, is the board max voltage. While the IC supports a little more, most boards came with 25V capacitors, so keep it at, or slightly under, that (I would use 24V).
The step up converter is ok.