Or this?
TPA3118 Bluetooth Receiver Stereo Digital Power Amplifier 30W 30W 12v 24v Car
http://s.aliexpress.com/yUZJriuq
(from AliExpress Android)
I’m not a BlueTooth expert, but somewhere I read that a decent audio quality can be obtained only using BT transmitter and receiver version 4.0, both equipped with aptX codec.
A list of sources (smart phones, tablets,..) supporting aptX can be found in
https://www.aptx.com/
Concerning the BT receiver, I don’t believe that the module integrated in the TPA31xx boards can support aptX; moreover, most of these boards don’t have an AUX input, so they can amplify only the signal transmitted over the BT link.
A better choice could be a separate BT receiver module as:
Atp-X Bluetooth 4.0 Multi-point Connect Board Audio Receiver Stereo Sound Module | eBay
This module seems to have an analog input; switching between BT signal and this input is automatic, depending if BT signal is present or not.
There is a TPA3116 version with the CS8645 chip. Would that support aptX? It doesn't help me because I will be using RCAs 80-90% of the time.
Integrated TPA3116 CSR8645 Bluetooth Mini Digital Amplifier 2 50W Board TE480 | eBay
Integrated TPA3116 CSR8645 Bluetooth Mini Digital Amplifier 2 50W Board TE480 | eBay
Thanks snake69fast,
Initially I thought that one might do but that 3.5mm jack is actually an output, not input when I read the description. Search continues...
Now I am wondering fulvios post about the bluetooth quality but not sure if it is the highest concern since I will be using BT minimally.
Initially I thought that one might do but that 3.5mm jack is actually an output, not input when I read the description. Search continues...
Now I am wondering fulvios post about the bluetooth quality but not sure if it is the highest concern since I will be using BT minimally.
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Stereo bluetooth audio uses the A2DP bluetooth profile. A2DP requires support for the SBC codec. The SBC codec, isn't terrible, provided you have a nice, strong Bluetooth link, but you can't always count on that. AptX is a proprietary codec, it must be supported by both sender and receiver to take advantage of it. There is also the option of supporting AAC or MP3 over A2DP, but again, both devices must have the support, and from what I can tell, many don't.
If it were me, I'd get a good board with RCA inputs (or pins for adding them), and then use a separate Bluetooth receiver.
If it were me, I'd get a good board with RCA inputs (or pins for adding them), and then use a separate Bluetooth receiver.
APTX codec requires a license and the builder of a board that incorporate this codec have to pay for it, so I think the APTX, if present, will be clearly evidenced and advertized.
Take a look of this one:
Lepai LP7498E 200W Class D Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth aptX and Power Supply
If you need an aux input as well as the bluetooth then the mod mentioned for that particular noise source won't work. I've been looking into the Sure 3116/3118 apt-x + aux-in amps here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...a3118-tpa3116-board-amps-bluetooth-4-0-a.html
Sure's JAB amps are a cohesive set of amp and supporting H/W such as battery holder, on-board battery charging (LiPo, etc.). Over on PE's TT, they have been used a couple of times, no complaints as of yet.
My issue is this: The 2x50w JAB2-50 will deliver rated power at 24v. But the integral battery support for 3 LiPo cells comes in at ~12v. So the amp is fine on external power but limited on battery power: a nominal 9w rms into 8 ohms, 18w rms into 4 ohms.
I confess. I'm very biased as my needs are efficient, higher volume, outside boombox on battery power.
My issue is this: The 2x50w JAB2-50 will deliver rated power at 24v. But the integral battery support for 3 LiPo cells comes in at ~12v. So the amp is fine on external power but limited on battery power: a nominal 9w rms into 8 ohms, 18w rms into 4 ohms.
I confess. I'm very biased as my needs are efficient, higher volume, outside boombox on battery power.
Hi guys! My first post on this great thread. Have tryed several Tpa3118/3116 like the Smsl 36a pro. Sure Electronics Tpa3116. I fell in love with the dualchip XH-M190 V3. I resently bought the new version, the V4 found in the attached link. The new version seems slightly better. Blue led instead of green. Better build quality on speaker terminals etc. But, seems like i got an amp with one defective power capasitor (sanyo 1000uf 35v). It looks "exploded". Can anyone recomend an upgrade capacitor? Or should i just throw it in the bin and order a new amp? The amp works but the sound is no good.
12V 24V 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board for Arduino | eBay
My use / setup is: Spotify or Tunein radio app -> Chromecast audio -> Smsl sd-192 dac -> dualchip XH-M190 -> XTZ 99.26 matte white, uprgaded with the XTZ 99.25 lcr crossovers -> pure magical sound..
12V 24V 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board for Arduino | eBay
My use / setup is: Spotify or Tunein radio app -> Chromecast audio -> Smsl sd-192 dac -> dualchip XH-M190 -> XTZ 99.26 matte white, uprgaded with the XTZ 99.25 lcr crossovers -> pure magical sound..
Thanks to whoever answered me a couple pages ago, so do you think it can drive a set of woofers/tweeters and a sub? im talking about the 50wx2 100w type of amp, i need it for a heavy boombox of sorts as i said before, quality isnt really a priority, prioritys are power,efficiency and at last quality, its meant as a sort of portable all in one party box, like in clubs, they go for raw power not as much for quality.
TPA3116 50W 2 100W 2 1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Power Amplifier Board TZ A9Z0 | eBay
TPA3116 50W 2 100W 2 1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Power Amplifier Board TZ A9Z0 | eBay
Just go with separate subwoofer amp because it means to have separate power and thats fine to boost volume [separatelly from main stereo to fill the stage\room]; I suppose you will iterate through different setups because your application has own specifics you dont realize yet. When you will need more power you'll switch chip or build something with better understanding of purpose.
Despite you do not need BT I like to share my experience with using BT on the go and at desktop. BT is like mp3 at midrange bitrate - some people can't realize difference with CD sound. If it isn't your case - just don't trust to BT as main path of data, 3.5 jack is must for portable entertainment box. At least you'll be able to connect your cellular to jack.
Main reason for BT not to be reliable - interference and inpredictable magnetic environment. Another reason - it isn't so 'standart' as you expect from such an old tech. Some old BT devices connect better than newer models of same brand, some are not equal in sustaining against obstacles or magnetic interference. I am happy having 3.5 jack on my Jabra Move headset as it sounds much better in wired mode but has BT when I need to detach myself. So BT is backup or good when it works and LoFi is ok.
Despite you do not need BT I like to share my experience with using BT on the go and at desktop. BT is like mp3 at midrange bitrate - some people can't realize difference with CD sound. If it isn't your case - just don't trust to BT as main path of data, 3.5 jack is must for portable entertainment box. At least you'll be able to connect your cellular to jack.
Main reason for BT not to be reliable - interference and inpredictable magnetic environment. Another reason - it isn't so 'standart' as you expect from such an old tech. Some old BT devices connect better than newer models of same brand, some are not equal in sustaining against obstacles or magnetic interference. I am happy having 3.5 jack on my Jabra Move headset as it sounds much better in wired mode but has BT when I need to detach myself. So BT is backup or good when it works and LoFi is ok.
I actually never liked bluetooth,drains the battery too fast, im just going to leave room for adding a separate module when the time comes, but for now i'm going to have a 3.5mm jack with the shortest wire possible, I seriusly have like a 80 max 100 euro budget, some of the wood/mdf i need i have, and a medium sized 45ah car battery, the rest i need to buy everything.
My idea was to go to a scrapyard and look for cars with modified stereos and if i find any decent ones completely raid them or look online for cars that have good oem subwwofer systems, that. Still if I don't find an amplifier to use noting is going to work out...
Or else im going full amazon and just buying some **** pyle 2woofer 2 tweeter with x over.
I am also continuously looking on the classifieds for used car amplifiers
My idea was to go to a scrapyard and look for cars with modified stereos and if i find any decent ones completely raid them or look online for cars that have good oem subwwofer systems, that. Still if I don't find an amplifier to use noting is going to work out...
Or else im going full amazon and just buying some **** pyle 2woofer 2 tweeter with x over.
I am also continuously looking on the classifieds for used car amplifiers
In case anyone is interested, this is what it looks like under the heatsink of the Sanwu TPA3116 board. No bootstrap snubber hiding under there.
Does anybody know what transistors (???) Q1, Q2, Q3 and IC (???) U2 in the picture are for?
Are they for a delayed start (anti-bump) ?
Capacitance multiplier has to lose just above the maximum noise in mV...so if your noise/ripple is 100mV CM needs to lose about 0.4v to kill noise
Yeah its very fast has about 40-50db attenuation up to 2-3Mhz
Yeah its very fast has about 40-50db attenuation up to 2-3Mhz
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Your answer increases my curiosity, traditional capacitance multipliers have a minimum drop of 1-2V (or more); so, what kind of circuit are you using?
I'm asking it because I was just considering the possibility to use something like an ac shunt regulator.