TPA3116D2 Amp

Options...
1) A board, requiring DIY... I have the Breeze (board only) and the dual chip. I'm happy with the sound of both.... Though prefer the Breeze. £10 for the Breeze board only.
2) Amp-in-a-box - Breeze 2.0 basic without tone controls. £22 - need to source a power supply. A good laptop SMPS is reasonable.
3) SMSL SA60 - £60? Everything you need is in the box.

I'd shy away from the YJ blue board unless you have a hankering for modifying boards. Other options sound far better in the OEM state - unmodified.
 
A certain amount of personal preference and hearing/perception is involved. The Gmarsh is rated as one of the best if not the best 3116 board, though I haven't heard it, I do not own one.

I would say the Breeze could be a good choice, though depending on where you live, building up the amp from a board could be a pragmatic option - if shipping and returns are difficult.... far easier to write off a $20 board than spend $75-$100 on a complete amp if it fails or doesn't work.

A decent 16-19V laptop SMPS would be needed for the Breeze option.

New TPA3116 HIFI 2.0 Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50Wx2 | eBay

^^^ That's the board I bought.

J.
 
I've decided to build my first amp!
I know its look, but have not decided what will be inside.
The best is Wienner, but around $100 for board only is too much. But the case will be build with possibility to install it in future.
I need a board w/o vol.controle. With some simple modifications (capacitors, etc) what is the best board under $20?
Internal power supply - does it worth? Toroidal or liner? And some links with proven quality PS?
ALPS potentiometer for volume is better for 3116 amp? And are $15 ALPS on ebay original or not?
Best interconnects and speakers plugs for money? (Need golden and silver)
What Internal cables should be used or it doesn't matter?

Thanks!
 
I've decided to build my first amp!
I know its look, but have not decided what will be inside.
The best is Wienner, but around $100 for board only is too much. But the case will be build with possibility to install it in future.
I need a board w/o vol.controle. With some simple modifications (capacitors, etc) what is the best board under $20?
Internal power supply - does it worth? Toroidal or liner? And some links with proven quality PS?
ALPS potentiometer for volume is better for 3116 amp? And are $15 ALPS on ebay original or not?
Best interconnects and speakers plugs for money? (Need golden and silver)
What Internal cables should be used or it doesn't matter?

Thanks!

Please, answer my questions.
I've already found case, and know how the amp will look.
But I need advise about power supply, APLS and audio terminals (found a lot of on ebay, but want one with proven quality)
 
Apologies if the following question stems from my lack of expertise in electronics:


Q: I see on the Wiki page it's recommended to replace the bootstrap capacitors on the Blue/Black board with better ones. OK, fine. That looks simple enough.
But, should the bootstrap snubber mod done by XRK and others also be done? Or, is this an "either/or" situation?

Thanks everyone,
Mark

The bootstrap cap change is optional. Some people hear a difference. The bootstrap snubber is definitely audible improvement. The two mods can be done independently.

I used ceramic 330pF and 1/8th watt metal film resistors. For the cap mod, it has been suggested to get away from ceramics and go with poly films.
 
The only places you should use film capacitors are the output filter and the input coupling caps.

Bootstrap caps, GVDD decoupling, close to the IC power supply decoupling and other "constant voltage" places... use X5R/X7R ceramic caps and be aware of their voltage coefficient. For the OUTxx snubbers (aka "bootstrap snubber") use C0G/NPO ceramic. You want ceramic in these places for lower ESL.
 
TI would consider using filmcapacitors for powersupply decoupling too.

For all of the parts on YJblueblack with any kind of function related to powersupply or decoupling things go wrong, because YJ used certain (chinese) parts and/or because they are very far away from chippins. For bootstrap it indeed is easy to hear, but you won't be listening to what you like, you just listen whether inputsignal comes out, which some of it doesn't on standard YJblueblack. Replacing bootstrap capacitors for ANY other film or ceramic reduced this filtering the YJblueblack performs, but as mentioned earlier GVDD capacitor location might be to blame for this too, put gvdd capacitor near tpachip.
 
So for reference, this is 1kHz into 4R dummy load at ~29Wrms. (No filter)

To me, i don't see a problem here.

You said you used 12V or 12.51V Lipo PSU? For such a voltage TI datasheet suggests ~29Wrms is too high. Picture shows positive peaks each wave at different levels, all negative peaks each at equal levels, what is causing this ? When scope shows too high values compared to datasheet, could this scope read level be shifted by varying DClevels for example ?
 
Is the only way to suspect DC is there, that AC voltage levels seen are too high ?

Btw looking now at C only right channel scope pic shorted inputs you posted, there is lower Vpp than with complete RC, even if a clip or something to take out the R increased noise as you said there.
 
Vpp for right channel with RC and with C only like attached ? Or do I read that wrong ?

Or the other part: With scope other than increased, higher than can be expected (AC) voltages, how could one determine DC levels on output?
 

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