They are very short xrk971. They appear to be shorter than YJ legit boards, don't have one so can't be sure.
The things with this one is the GND return is obviously not "star GND". And goes through electrolytic neg leg, thus avoiding the return route through GND plane.
The things with this one is the GND return is obviously not "star GND". And goes through electrolytic neg leg, thus avoiding the return route through GND plane.
Thank you for the reply. I briefly looked at the component lay out of this blue/black before buying and it was very similar to the YJ. So I assumed the PCB was the "same". But when I hooked it up. It was disappointing, I rank it even lower than the original YJ red 3116. Well, these things happen.
Glad to hear that the"big amp" worked out well. I am waiting for my 7498 to arrive.
Regards,
I see. I'll keep the 1nf for now, albeit different place, as I bought after trawling few many spec sheets to find just the right ones. Just need to check spares tin to see if I got some 10nf to try underneath for now, as I got to get some 10nf anyway for elsewhere.
And yes,
I like to read. Read lots on various subjects including audio mods, tweaks, manufacturing differences etc as well as vast quantities of spec sheets and d-class stuff lately. Don't get out much, prefer music!!! 😀I see. I'll keep the 1nf for now, albeit different place, as I bought after trawling few many spec sheets to find just the right ones. Just need to check spares tin to see if I got some 10nf to try underneath for now, as I got to get some 10nf anyway for elsewhere.
And yes,
For listening to music YJblue is bad choice. For practising soldering skills it is best on market 🙂
Mildly comatose amplifier theory 😀
Do we run long wires from the decoupling
capacitor to the star and add
exactly as much inductance as we were hoping to get rid of?
With a star you can just about build a mildly comatose
class A amplifier. Anything faster and you’ll run
into stability problems. Try switching circuits and
all assumptions go out the window.I totally understand where your coming from. If I had the choice I'd prefer to do my own design PCB, but done that for half my WiFi DAC and it proved very time consuming and expensive compared to $9 amp + a few more for changing components!.
Pretty sure these will sing with some work.
Pretty sure these will sing with some work.
Got rid of 10nf last night and moved the 1nf in its place to match other side. Sounds fine.
Left the two pads from the original 1nf exposed without cap.
Question..... Any recommendations of product for covering exposed parts of PCB?
At the same time I shortened both 1nf legs to absolute minimum...that was tricky to reattach! And in process one of the pads lifted. Luckily, for now anyhow, the other leg soldered holds cap and pad in place firmly.
Left the two pads from the original 1nf exposed without cap.
Question..... Any recommendations of product for covering exposed parts of PCB?
At the same time I shortened both 1nf legs to absolute minimum...that was tricky to reattach! And in process one of the pads lifted. Luckily, for now anyhow, the other leg soldered holds cap and pad in place firmly.
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What are your solution for multiple inputs? I have an old turntable that i want to use but i only have one input channel on my amp, so is there some sort of a splitter
For your turntable, you will need a phono preamp. For multiple inputs, I made an input selector switch box:
For your turntable, you will need a phono preamp. For multiple inputs, I made an input selector switch box:
Oh ok, is that input selector custom made or u bought complete solution?
did anybody try this board:
Tpa3118 digitale mini verstrker board 25w assebled bord w/schalter potentiometer bertreffen tpa3123 in Tpa3118 digitale mini-verstrker board 25w assebled bord w/schalter potentiometer bertreffen tpa3123Beschreibung:- tpa3 aus Verstrker auf AliEx
The layout looks tight and the price is very good.
Tpa3118 digitale mini verstrker board 25w assebled bord w/schalter potentiometer bertreffen tpa3123 in Tpa3118 digitale mini-verstrker board 25w assebled bord w/schalter potentiometer bertreffen tpa3123Beschreibung:- tpa3 aus Verstrker auf AliEx
The layout looks tight and the price is very good.
Reminds me of the Smakn amp. That is a good price but I like how cheap TDA7498's are for about same price. Still waiting for mine to arrive - neat to see if really a 100w amp.
When doing the bootstrap mod, is the junction of the caps and resistors tied to ground, or just other leg of the resistor. Resistors should be 10ohm?
Sorry to bother, I ask again.
Perhaps it is my fault, I tried to read as much pages of this thread as I could but I did not find if someone tried to configure Ybdz "Weiner" green or blue board into PBTL and if it is therefore possible.
In the positive case, if filter values (inductor ans resistance) should be changed.
I would also ask if something else should be changed in the case one would like to use it for a 4 ohm load.
Anyone?
Look in the Wiki, bootstrap cap pin connect to snubber cap connect to resistor then connect to ground like C11 and R11 in schematic.
Wiki:
TPA3116D2 Boards - diyAudio
I did, and did it that way......the resistors burnt. I joined the grounds to one point and not separately. I can't see that this would cause the problem?
If you have bad caps that are shorted then your resistors would flow the full power of the amp. Check your caps with an ohm meter.
I haven't tried but no reason it shouldn't work like other 3116 ampboards. Connect chippin 9/10/11 together. (Boards that come with prefab pbtl option also connect outputsignal both + and - for right (and also for left) together at bootstrap capacitors). And right speaker outputs + and - together become +, left outputs together become -. Unchanged filter all 4 outputs used will be for 4 ohm load.
indeed check capacitors, once befor I read about burning resistors and then I believe caps were not 330pF but 330nF
Head scratching time. Removed the SMD .22's, checked them they are ok. Changed them for .22 Wima's (63v) fired it up.......same problem. Any ideas?
Here is a pic, I am sure that everything is in the right place.....but some other eyes might tell me differently.
Those are new resistors that started to smoke as soon as I turned it on.
Here is a pic, I am sure that everything is in the right place.....but some other eyes might tell me differently.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Those are new resistors that started to smoke as soon as I turned it on.