Is this board any good? The schematic posted by Perceval is the standard (non-EVM) one used by 95% of manufacturers - meaning no bootstrap snubber circuit.
xrk,
The board was briefly mentioned inthe forum quite sometime ago. This is the TB link:TPA3116Êý×ÖС¹¦·Å°å12V ´ó¹¦ÂÊ³ÉÆ·°å/´ø¿ª¹ØµçλÆ÷/²¢½Óµ¥ÉùµÀ-ÌÔ±¦Íø
The Chinese user feedbacks are generally positive. The seller claimed all the components are genuine and the board is their own design. The volume pot has a on-off switch built-in and there is also a 5V (150-200 mA) power out on the board (left to the 3.5 mm audio input at the corner). A power on LED is also included. I think they also placed a diode at the Vcc input to guard against reversing the polarity (buried in the middle of the board)
Just happened that I bought one recently and it should be here around early January. Will provide my comments after checking it out. This vendor also has their own design of 3118 (the board looks half decent).
Regards,
xrk,
The board was briefly mentioned inthe forum quite sometime ago. This is the TB link:TPA3116Êý×ÖС¹¦·Å°å12V ´ó¹¦ÂÊ³ÉÆ·°å/´ø¿ª¹ØµçλÆ÷/²¢½Óµ¥ÉùµÀ-ÌÔ±¦Íø
The Chinese user feedbacks are generally positive. The seller claimed all the components are genuine and the board is their own design. The volume pot has a on-off switch built-in and there is also a 5V (150-200 mA) power out on the board (left to the 3.5 mm audio input at the corner). A power on LED is also included. I think they also placed a diode at the Vcc input to guard against reversing the polarity (buried in the middle of the board)
Just happened that I bought one recently and it should be here around early January. Will provide my comments after checking it out. This vendor also has their own design of 3118 (the board looks half decent).
Regards,
How did they get 5v output ? I don't see a voltage regulator - maybe a Zener diode? That would be convenient as power source for Bluetooth module provided there are no ground loops. Thanks for the info Lo Tse. I might try this board too easy enough to get from Amazon.
How did they get 5v output ? I don't see a voltage regulator - maybe a Zener diode? That would be convenient as power source for Bluetooth module provided there are no ground loops. Thanks for the info Lo Tse. I might try this board too easy enough to get from Amazon.
Yup. On the web page, it was mentioned that the 5v can be used for a DAC (USB probably). The prices of these 3116 boards are definitely getting more and more "user friendly"😛.
Regards,
Pin7 can be used for all kind of things, however TI tells us not to.
You are right. But are you sure that the 5V outlet is derived from Pin 7(GVDD)? I guess I'll find out when I receive the board.
My Favourite speakers are 15 Ohm and they sound great on a tpa3123d2, tda7297 and tda7294 amps. There is never any mention in any of the documentation for the amps and their use with 15 Ohm speakers, why would that be?
All my amps were purchased as ready built boards.
I also have TDA7297 and like it. Any comments on comparison of amps u own?
I'm powering my tpa3116 with 24v (adjusted to 21v) tdk-lambda smps. Is there any benefit to build linear psu? I got some 18v leftover r-core & toroid transformers, don't know VA ratings. I'm thinking about building a linear supply.
I have heard conflicting stories of the benefit of linear PSU's. It appears that a linear PSU may be beneficial if it can provide the equivalent current and voltage of a SMPS for an even comparison. A linear at 13.8v and 2 amps will not compete with a 21v SMPS with 5amps if you are playing dynamic passages. I think the TPA311x's like higher voltages as opposed to lower voltages, with the sweet spot not to exceed 20v or 21v. I personally only use $6 laptop 19v 4.6amp SMPS and really like the sound and so don't know any better personally.
My personal impression of the "sentiment" of this thread, and the corresponding one on AudioCircle, is that PSUs rank as follows, worst to best: SMPS, battery, linear. But again, that's just my feel based on people commenting in these two threads.
In my own experience, however, I've seen no difference, and I've tried: super-cheap 12V/2A wall-wart SMPS, 13.8V linear regulated Astron RS-12A, 20V lithium battery pack (made for a string trimmer), and 12V linear regulated DIY Sigma11. But note that I've done these comparisons on my desktop/nearfield setup, which is very low power (less than 1 watt/speaker). In this case, I suspect PSU makes much less of a difference. Or maybe my ears just aren't good enough. I haven't tried similar comparisons on a higher-power setup.
FWIW, when I was using a Class D Audio SDS-470 amp, I switched out the stock linear PSU for a Connex SMPS800R, and heard a slight-but-noticeable improvement. But this is just one data point (and not a TI TPA311x amp), and to my untrained eyes, the Class D Audio linear supply looked quite simplistic (xformer + diode + caps), whereas I know the Connex switch-mode power supplies are designed differently than typical (e.g. laptop brick) SMPS.
My conclusion is this: the laptop brick SMPSes (like xrk mentioned above), certainly win in terms of cost, convenience, and availability. But if you absolutely must have the best PSU for your amp, then I really believe it's a case of "different strokes for different folks", and the only solution is to experiment and find what works best for you.
Edit: another idea: maybe the laptop brick style SMPSes are actually somewhat better than their price suggests, due to economies of scale. Kind of like Ethernet cable: it's generally fairly high quality stuff, but still cheap due to its ubiquity.
In my own experience, however, I've seen no difference, and I've tried: super-cheap 12V/2A wall-wart SMPS, 13.8V linear regulated Astron RS-12A, 20V lithium battery pack (made for a string trimmer), and 12V linear regulated DIY Sigma11. But note that I've done these comparisons on my desktop/nearfield setup, which is very low power (less than 1 watt/speaker). In this case, I suspect PSU makes much less of a difference. Or maybe my ears just aren't good enough. I haven't tried similar comparisons on a higher-power setup.
FWIW, when I was using a Class D Audio SDS-470 amp, I switched out the stock linear PSU for a Connex SMPS800R, and heard a slight-but-noticeable improvement. But this is just one data point (and not a TI TPA311x amp), and to my untrained eyes, the Class D Audio linear supply looked quite simplistic (xformer + diode + caps), whereas I know the Connex switch-mode power supplies are designed differently than typical (e.g. laptop brick) SMPS.
My conclusion is this: the laptop brick SMPSes (like xrk mentioned above), certainly win in terms of cost, convenience, and availability. But if you absolutely must have the best PSU for your amp, then I really believe it's a case of "different strokes for different folks", and the only solution is to experiment and find what works best for you.
Edit: another idea: maybe the laptop brick style SMPSes are actually somewhat better than their price suggests, due to economies of scale. Kind of like Ethernet cable: it's generally fairly high quality stuff, but still cheap due to its ubiquity.
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xrk & matt,
Thanks for your opinions. Right now, it sounds so sweet with tdk-lambda smps. I replaced input caps & decoupling caps, added bootstrap snubber... With each mod, tpa3116 improved, especially with bootstrap mod. When I moved laptop brick to lambda smps, sound became dynamic, clean.
I think I will stick with the lambda for a while 😉
Thanks for your opinions. Right now, it sounds so sweet with tdk-lambda smps. I replaced input caps & decoupling caps, added bootstrap snubber... With each mod, tpa3116 improved, especially with bootstrap mod. When I moved laptop brick to lambda smps, sound became dynamic, clean.
I think I will stick with the lambda for a while 😉
I echo what matt_garman has said.
When I tested my TPA3100D2 design, a few back now, I used a lab bench linear supply and still use it today for one setup. I can monitor the current been drawn in operation(music). It still amazes me how little power these things draw, even when I am blasting the tunes. Damn the LCD LED backlights on the portable radio draw more juice.
We are talking Class "D" hear, so the logical choice is SMPS for efficiency reasons.
As a suggestion you can get an old Pioneer SX-450/550/580 to use as a chassis and for a un-reg linear PS.
If you have a linear PS, use it, as I do but it don't make a whole lot of difference really, when I tested using SMPS bricks.
Prob with a Linear is possible ripple/hum, size, cost, regulated or not? sort of issues.
For a SMPS it is higher freq hash getting through into sensitive circuits, but it is by far the most economical and eff. solution.
Sorry xrk/others, I do not agree with this "the sweet spot not to exceed 20v or 21v" I run mine at 24-28V, the more dynamic headroom the better for any audio amplifier IMO.
Happy New Year everyone!!
When I tested my TPA3100D2 design, a few back now, I used a lab bench linear supply and still use it today for one setup. I can monitor the current been drawn in operation(music). It still amazes me how little power these things draw, even when I am blasting the tunes. Damn the LCD LED backlights on the portable radio draw more juice.
We are talking Class "D" hear, so the logical choice is SMPS for efficiency reasons.
As a suggestion you can get an old Pioneer SX-450/550/580 to use as a chassis and for a un-reg linear PS.
If you have a linear PS, use it, as I do but it don't make a whole lot of difference really, when I tested using SMPS bricks.
Prob with a Linear is possible ripple/hum, size, cost, regulated or not? sort of issues.
For a SMPS it is higher freq hash getting through into sensitive circuits, but it is by far the most economical and eff. solution.
Sorry xrk/others, I do not agree with this "the sweet spot not to exceed 20v or 21v" I run mine at 24-28V, the more dynamic headroom the better for any audio amplifier IMO.
Happy New Year everyone!!
Here SMPS has cleaner, clearer, and smoother, less distorted highs, even upper mids show same compared to linear. And next to that bass power and detail naturally is better with smps. Maybe my linear isn't complex enough, lacks sophistocated filtering.
A new SMSL SA-36A Pro?
Does anyone know what the differences are between the original SMSL SA-36A Pro and and what appears to be a new Pro 2 version are? I have the original and love the amp except for the darn turn off pop issue. I just leave my amp on most of the time now. I wonder if they got it fixed in this one?
It looks like is has more through-hole parts and fewer SMD's, a heat sink, pots (for DC offset?) and possibly other changes but my knowledge on this stuff is pretty limited so I am here asking the experts. Thanks!
Mark
Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + 12V Power Adapter: Electronics
Does anyone know what the differences are between the original SMSL SA-36A Pro and and what appears to be a new Pro 2 version are? I have the original and love the amp except for the darn turn off pop issue. I just leave my amp on most of the time now. I wonder if they got it fixed in this one?
It looks like is has more through-hole parts and fewer SMD's, a heat sink, pots (for DC offset?) and possibly other changes but my knowledge on this stuff is pretty limited so I am here asking the experts. Thanks!
Mark
Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + 12V Power Adapter: Electronics
For the Breeze audio amp, is there any way to reduce/remove the thump when switching on/off?
I remember seeing a post but can't find it any longer.
Also, what is the recommended Voltage/Amp?
Running it currently with an old laptop power supply at 18.5v 3.5A, but I also have another 20v 4.5A which i could reuse for this if it's any better.
Cheers
I remember seeing a post but can't find it any longer.
Also, what is the recommended Voltage/Amp?
Running it currently with an old laptop power supply at 18.5v 3.5A, but I also have another 20v 4.5A which i could reuse for this if it's any better.
Cheers
Can someone confirm the values of C7 and C22 on Sure TPA3116 board ?
I'd like to test replacement with film caps as suggested in post #5278
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-528.html#post4082418
Best regards,
I'd like to test replacement with film caps as suggested in post #5278
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-528.html#post4082418
Best regards,
Can someone confirm the values of C7 and C22 on Sure TPA3116 board ?
I'd like to test replacement with film caps as suggested in post #5278
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-528.html#post4082418
Best regards,
1nF but just remove them and leave open
3118 has no heatsink, this pic is tripath 2020 I guessDoes anyone know what the differences are between the original SMSL SA-36A Pro and and what appears to be a new Pro 2 version are? I have the original and love the amp except for the darn turn off pop issue. I just leave my amp on most of the time now. I wonder if they got it fixed in this one?
It looks like is has more through-hole parts and fewer SMD's, a heat sink, pots (for DC offset?) and possibly other changes but my knowledge on this stuff is pretty limited so I am here asking the experts. Thanks!
Mark
Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + 12V Power Adapter: Electronics
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I can't comment on the differences, but according to the SMSL website, this is what the new "upgrade version" should look like -Does anyone know what the differences are between the original SMSL SA-36A Pro and and what appears to be a new Pro 2 version are? I have the original and love the amp except for the darn turn off pop issue. I just leave my amp on most of the time now. I wonder if they got it fixed in this one?
SA-36A pro??? - ????? - ???? -?????????????
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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