All versions are "50W". The difference between the 2 you posted is that the one called a "50W" version comes with a 12V power adapter and the other comes with a 5V wallwart. Internally they're identical.
Yes. 2x25W@10%THD=50W in marketing speak.
It's even slightly in the realm of the realistic as it's 2 TPA3110s in PBTL so it can pull quite low impedances.
According to Douk, new version comes with 18V, old with 12V ??? All very reliable LOL 18V is too high I would think, dotted line tpa3110 datasheet, probably meaning if heat only could get away then power would be...or something like that.
Very filterless, no ferrite beads, so probably not legal to use in some areas, and this being finished product, most likely not legal to sell either in those areas, Sure sells board only as DIY part, part implying you need to add other parts before you can use it, your responsibility.
Very filterless, no ferrite beads, so probably not legal to use in some areas, and this being finished product, most likely not legal to sell either in those areas, Sure sells board only as DIY part, part implying you need to add other parts before you can use it, your responsibility.
No. Not voltage dependent. The limit is the overcurrent and thermal protection.
The data sheet states that maximum output is 40W in PBTL and minimum load impedance is 3.2 ohm in PBTL mode. That tell us the maximum current the chip can handle. 12V into 3.2 ohm load is 22.5W. 22.5W is "almost" 25W which looks much nicer on paper. And there's 2 channels. Bang. 50W sticker.
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Sticker is 2x30W for new version and 18v PSU, see ebay. 1.6 ohm 3116pbtl and 3.2 btl, for 3110 pbtl doesn't really lower minimum impedance I thought but maybe higher voltage minimum impedance drops
I'm just repeating what the data sheet states. 3.2 ohm minimum load impedance and 40W maximum power output in PBTL mode which would be at 16V supply voltage. So dual PBTL is really capable of doing 2x40W. Mix and match supply voltage to load impedance as needed.
I can't see any difference between old and new version except for the supplied power adapter. As far as I can tell both even use 25V power supply elcaps so I doubt there is any actually difference.
Hello, I'm a real newbie!
I was looking for a reasonable priced amp and when I found this thread, I just instantly bought it from Ebay. It was the Yuan-Jing 2.0 black pcb with LED.
When I received it I started to try different notebook adapters I found at home so I could fire it up. The first one I tried was DELL 19.5V 4.5A. And it didn't worked. The amp started to do weird pop noise (English is not my own language and i find this rather difficult to explain), it was like big drum, then a second of a song which was playing, and it was going in a loop. I thought, okay, must be a fault in the adapter and tried a different one. The next one I tried was an old IBM 16V 3.36A which sounded great, there was just a slight tiny noise coming from the weepers and I thought it must be a fault in the speakers (which are some cheap no-name 8 ohm big towers from eighties, planning to change them) and it even couldn't be heard when the music was on. For the next two days I was enjoying the new sound and I was happy.
When the power was disconnected, I noticed this weird thing. Even though there was no power going in, just the connection to pc sound card, the LED would still have a slight red light on. First few times it was just for a few seconds but on the second day it didn't turned off at all. It was like 10x more brighter when the power was connected in. It didn't really bothered me and I thought it was supposed to be like that.
On the third day, which is today, I came home from school, turned on pc started a music and the slight high noise i mentioned earlier, was not slight anymore. It got really bad and noticeable even when the music was playing. I thought there must be a problem in the input (the cables were not soldered, just stuck on the three pins) and decided to solder it. After some really crappy soldering (I'm a beginner 😀), I turned it back on, only to hear that weird pop noise again and again. I got really frustrated and started to resolder everything. Later, I discovered that it was pointless because even when there is no sound input, it would just turn on and off (it just looks like it, the led doesn't dim). I tried many power supplies but everyone is doing the same thing.
So is there a way how to fix this? Since I already done changes to pcb, I guess there is no chance of applying warranty. And even if there was, the shipping to china is more expensive than the board itself 😀. I was planning to mod it, so if the problem was just in some part of the circuit I would be really happy again.
TL/DR;
Amp is driving me crazy because after three days of having it, it is just turning on and off every second with very loud pop sound and with every adapter I tried (5).
Thank you very much for any help!
I was looking for a reasonable priced amp and when I found this thread, I just instantly bought it from Ebay. It was the Yuan-Jing 2.0 black pcb with LED.
When I received it I started to try different notebook adapters I found at home so I could fire it up. The first one I tried was DELL 19.5V 4.5A. And it didn't worked. The amp started to do weird pop noise (English is not my own language and i find this rather difficult to explain), it was like big drum, then a second of a song which was playing, and it was going in a loop. I thought, okay, must be a fault in the adapter and tried a different one. The next one I tried was an old IBM 16V 3.36A which sounded great, there was just a slight tiny noise coming from the weepers and I thought it must be a fault in the speakers (which are some cheap no-name 8 ohm big towers from eighties, planning to change them) and it even couldn't be heard when the music was on. For the next two days I was enjoying the new sound and I was happy.
When the power was disconnected, I noticed this weird thing. Even though there was no power going in, just the connection to pc sound card, the LED would still have a slight red light on. First few times it was just for a few seconds but on the second day it didn't turned off at all. It was like 10x more brighter when the power was connected in. It didn't really bothered me and I thought it was supposed to be like that.
On the third day, which is today, I came home from school, turned on pc started a music and the slight high noise i mentioned earlier, was not slight anymore. It got really bad and noticeable even when the music was playing. I thought there must be a problem in the input (the cables were not soldered, just stuck on the three pins) and decided to solder it. After some really crappy soldering (I'm a beginner 😀), I turned it back on, only to hear that weird pop noise again and again. I got really frustrated and started to resolder everything. Later, I discovered that it was pointless because even when there is no sound input, it would just turn on and off (it just looks like it, the led doesn't dim). I tried many power supplies but everyone is doing the same thing.
So is there a way how to fix this? Since I already done changes to pcb, I guess there is no chance of applying warranty. And even if there was, the shipping to china is more expensive than the board itself 😀. I was planning to mod it, so if the problem was just in some part of the circuit I would be really happy again.
TL/DR;
Amp is driving me crazy because after three days of having it, it is just turning on and off every second with very loud pop sound and with every adapter I tried (5).
Thank you very much for any help!
I don't think YJ is capable of adding a led to a circuit if they can't copy it from other designer. So question is what board do you have?
Why don't you contact the seller, and tell them you have a defective board, if that doesn't work, open a case with E-Bay. You should get a new board or a refund.
I've had this issue with improperly-reflowed TPA3132 chips. One of the outputs is shorted.
Take a magnifying glass/microscope and find the short (probably a little solder whisker), then take a soldering iron, add a bit of flux to the pins and clean them up.
This is far more common with QFN chips, which are inherently harder to work with.
Take a magnifying glass/microscope and find the short (probably a little solder whisker), then take a soldering iron, add a bit of flux to the pins and clean them up.
This is far more common with QFN chips, which are inherently harder to work with.
OK new board, not standard YJblack/blue, but with diode and resistor/led/pcbtrace. Is led trace leading to DC-input I hope?
Popping and no sound at all or do you hear source in between, both channels?
Wow, an LED on a YJ blue black! A new PCB v2? Did they add bootstrap snubbers while they were at it?
Also have a new YJ
I was also surprised to receive a new layout. It has a diode as mentioned as well as LED.
Unlike the picture mine had some holes where perhaps a volume pot could be added. On the otherside of the input are some solder pads that also link to the inputs. Perhaps a nice place for input trafo?
It also seems that they put 1uf after the inductors.
Unfortunately no bootstrap snubbers 😕
The solder mask on the bottom feels rubberized.
Aside from that, I tried the sepf oscons and while not wanting to start any sort of controversy, they definitely do not have more bass than the SilmicII I had in my previous build. Granted I am only 3 hours into it. Do the oscons need a long burn in?
I was also surprised to receive a new layout. It has a diode as mentioned as well as LED.
Unlike the picture mine had some holes where perhaps a volume pot could be added. On the otherside of the input are some solder pads that also link to the inputs. Perhaps a nice place for input trafo?
It also seems that they put 1uf after the inductors.
Unfortunately no bootstrap snubbers 😕
The solder mask on the bottom feels rubberized.
Aside from that, I tried the sepf oscons and while not wanting to start any sort of controversy, they definitely do not have more bass than the SilmicII I had in my previous build. Granted I am only 3 hours into it. Do the oscons need a long burn in?
I shot a macro pictures. On the second one, there are two shorts, do you think it might be it?
Yes, LED trace goes to DC input. And in between you can hear source, both channels, but just like for a second, then it pops again.
Thank you for all the replies! I appreciate your help 🙂
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