TPA3116D2 Amp

[DUG]

...

I have a question though... Why is D1 there? There is an explanation about a negative voltage on the mute pin. Huh? Where is that negative voltage coming from? Do you mean for protection in the event of a voltage spike somewhere? I'd hardly see that as relevant for a simple logic circuit.

That is to protect that input when powering down.

This cct is what I use on my boards.

With this cct the mute pin never sees more than 1mA reverse current.

Doug

 

[steveeboy]

more anecdotal reporting here:

So, I have been messing around with a variety of SMPS laptop bricks here. 12v, 16v, 24v...

I just hooked up an 19.5v, 5.13a chinese laptop brick from ebay. @120watts.

Seems like this sounds better than the 24v supply--which was the brick you get from parts express when you purchase their dta-100a amplifier.

So, put me in the camp that finds the best power level for the YJ blue/black board is around 19v.

still amazed at how nice this little board sounds with the pioneer bs22 speakers with the dennis murphy-designed crossover and other mods.

 

[prezden]

Well I have had more time to listen to a wide variety of music on this system.
So far the only sources I've tried are a portable Sony CD and an iPod Classic 5.5. I and some friends have been very impressed with the sound 😀
I never thought I would hear mp3's sound this good. There seems to be something about these 3116 that improve the sound of the mp3 files.

Thanks to all for making it possible for me to build such a great sounding stereo 🙂🙂

 

[Crossrh]

I've worked on three boards now that in stock form provide SD and GND headers: Ybdz ("Weiner"), new Sure tpa3110 and Sure tpa3116. In all three cases, simply shorting those GND and SD headers puts the amp in shutdown mode. I started off using a paperclip, and later installed an actual switch. With the amp in shutdown mode, I get absolutely zero pops/thumps during power on or power off.

I mentioned this earlier in the thread, and someone said it's actually not as simple as straight shorting the TPA chip's SD and GND pins; there need to be some extra components in there. But it appears for the three boards I mentioned, the correct circuit is already in place. But for a board like the YJBlue, you might want to read up a bit before you try to naively invoke shutdown mode.



I also found this to be true for the new version of the tpa3110 board. In fact I like the Oscon-modded new Sure tpa3110 better than any 3116 board I've played with (stock or modded).

Matt, can you provide any more details on how you eliminated the turn on/off pop? I have a brick PS that I want to be able to plug and unplug from the wall while leaving the DC plug in the Sure board, but I get a huge power-on pop.
I see "Mute", "STBY", "VCC", and "GND" holes in my board, but no "SD".

 

[perceval]

Well I have had more time to listen to a wide variety of music on this system.
So far the only sources I've tried are a portable Sony CD and an iPod Classic 5.5. I and some friends have been very impressed with the sound 😀
I never thought I would hear mp3's sound this good. There seems to be something about these 3116 that improve the sound of the mp3 files.

Thanks to all for making it possible for me to build such a great sounding stereo 🙂🙂

That's a very sweet little setup. Looks great!

I might want to try doing something similar!

 

[matt_garman]

Matt, can you provide any more details on how you eliminated the turn on/off pop? I have a brick PS that I want to be able to plug and unplug from the wall while leaving the DC plug in the Sure board, but I get a huge power-on pop.
I see "Mute", "STBY", "VCC", and "GND" holes in my board, but no "SD".

Going from memory here (you have been warned!), I believe that "STBY" == "SD" on the Sure boards. It's easy to test with a paperclip, just jumper STBY to GND, then plug in your mains power. When you're ready to listen to music, remove the jumper.

When you're done, first put the jumper back in place, then pull the AC power plug.

 

[bearberry]

Nice job, prezden 🙂

 

[doctormord]

finished mods
input capacitor original epcos
output rifarhe426 wima fkp
coils self made
bootstrap rifa rhe

Wounded like this, there's much loss due to bad bobbin coupling. Is this intended, I guess not?

 

[HaroldHill]

Wow. Made three modifications to the YJ blue/black board this weekend:

• Bootstrap: TDK 0.22uF 250V ceramic capacitors FK20X7R2E224K
• Power supply: Panasonic 330uF 25V OSCON capacitors 25SEPF330M
• LC filter: Coilcraft 10uH inductors RFS1412-103ME

The top-end glare that I found annoying before is gone. And the mids seem smoother with real presence. I'm sorry I procrastinated so long before making these mods.

Thanks to everyone for their adventurous DIY spirits and for keeping this thread educational, accessible and inspiring.

 

[Les H]

I haven't read all 586 pages yet, but have gone through several hundred, and would appreciate an update to a topic briefly discussed some time ago. Thanks to all for this excellent resource.

As of this date, what do people believe is the best sounding board stock? From my reading and research, I suspect it's the SMSL SA-60, as that appears to be the closest to the TI evaluation board and also includes the snubbers, which most other boards do not.

Next, what is the best sounding board with mods? If you can point me to the pertinent mods that would help. From my reading so far, I suspect it's the YJ blue-black.

I have the SMSL board on order and plan to work with it and a few others. I'll provide feedback as it I go.

I've used the Tripath 2020 series and have been impressed with its sound quality, but it lacks the power output that is needed for a new project. Hoping the 3116 will fit the bill. I tend to like tube sound (real tubes, that is) and some of the Class D amps come close while of course offering advantages in efficiency and low maintenance.

Les

 

[Crossrh]

Do you think putting a cap across the power input would help absorb some of the power-on jolt? And if so, what size?

 

[xrk971]

Do you think putting a cap across the power input would help absorb some of the power-on jolt? And if so, what size?

A large cap across power input will do nothing for turn on pop - that is caused by the output gate transistors switching on after the board is powered live with an unbalanced input. You need to either use the Giancarlo anti-pop mod, or have a switch that connects the SD pin to ground when power is applied to the board, and then released to turn on without the pop. In a way, leave the amp permanently powered on, and have a simple switch between GND and SD act as a "power" switch, more standby vs on.

 

[xrk971]

I haven't read all 586 pages yet, but have gone through several hundred, and would appreciate an update to a topic briefly discussed some time ago. Thanks to all for this excellent resource.

As of this date, what do people believe is the best sounding board stock? From my reading and research, I suspect it's the SMSL SA-60, as that appears to be the closest to the TI evaluation board and also includes the snubbers, which most other boards do not.

Next, what is the best sounding board with mods? If you can point me to the pertinent mods that would help. From my reading so far, I suspect it's the YJ blue-black.

I have the SMSL board on order and plan to work with it and a few others. I'll provide feedback as it I go.

I've used the Tripath 2020 series and have been impressed with its sound quality, but it lacks the power output that is needed for a new project. Hoping the 3116 will fit the bill. I tend to like tube sound (real tubes, that is) and some of the Class D amps come close while of course offering advantages in efficiency and low maintenance.

Les

The Sure TPA3116D2 board has the snubber circuit and folks seem to say it sounds very nice stock. I think the SMSL board is probably the best sounding stock based on specs - I have not heard one but the few people who tried it have reported that it is very good. The YJ blue black is very easy to mod, and as a result has a lot of followers. If you make all the main mods to a YJ blue black, I think it can sound world-class as Rhing will tell you. Of course he has like $200 worth of input transformers on it in addition to all the other mods.

My Ybdz sounds very good with just change to 330uF OSCON's and snubber mod.

The DUG group buy PBTL board, with high quality SMT parts and big Coilcrafts will probably sound the best given that the PCB layout is perhaps the best one out there in terms of keeping things close and tight where needed, and has the option of running the DC supply for the analog comparator as a separate circuit from the noisy switching power rails (pin 17 mod).

My guess is that the SMSL 3118 will be the best sound and value at $50. You really can't go wrong.

 

[Crossrh]

A large cap across power input will do nothing for turn on pop - that is caused by the output gate transistors switching on after the board is powered live with an unbalanced input. You need to either use the Giancarlo anti-pop mod, or have a switch that connects the SD pin to ground when power is applied to the board, and then released to turn on without the pop. In a way, leave the amp permanently powered on, and have a simple switch between GND and SD act as a "power" switch, more standby vs on.

Thanks for the reply.

So the switch goes between the STBY and the GND, right? And since I've already established my noob-ness, what's does VCC mean? I figured it's line voltage (19v in my case), but what does it stand for?

I'd like to find a nice switch with the 10mm pin spacing for the board, as I'll have it, and the Guanzo two-tube preamp, on display.

 

[ivmilicevic]

Hi everyone, I have recently bought an tpa3116 red board, and a one of 1uF(according to pcb) capacitors, near audio input is damaged, pins are broken. I have replaced it with same value trough-hole capacitor. Now when I turn it on, sound comes and goes away,it works for second and then it turns off for second. Is that because of capacitor or something else? Also, chip is running hot, i cant hold finger for more than few second on it.
I have resoldered every capacitor and resistor on board and problem is still there. I even tried few capacitors instead one that was broken(all 1uF, 50v).

 

[jyang]

The Sure TPA3116D2 board has the snubber circuit and folks seem to say it sounds very nice stock. I think the SMSL board is probably the best sounding stock based on specs - I have not heard one but the few people who tried it have reported that it is very good. The YJ blue black is very easy to mod, and as a result has a lot of followers. If you make all the main mods to a YJ blue black, I think it can sound world-class as Rhing will tell you. Of course he has like $200 worth of input transformers on it in addition to all the other mods.

My Ybdz sounds very good with just change to 330uF OSCON's and snubber mod.

The DUG group buy PBTL board, with high quality SMT parts and big Coilcrafts will probably sound the best given that the PCB layout is perhaps the best one out there in terms of keeping things close and tight where needed, and has the option of running the DC supply for the analog comparator as a separate circuit from the noisy switching power rails (pin 17 mod).

My guess is that the SMSL 3118 will be the best sound and value at $50. You really can't go wrong.

Hi,

Been following the latter pages of this thread (and all of the pages of the 3116 threads at other forums), but have no experience with any of the boards (or with modding).

Just to clarify, is it the SMSL 3116 (SA-60) that you are talking about in your first paragraph (as possibly the overall best sounding stock based on specs)?

And, it is the SMSL 3118 that you feel is the best value?

Thanks,
JYang

 

[eqsOne]

The Feixiang xover control isn't the best .... again, IMHO. (...)

However, if (...) your expectations are not too high (...), then it's a very cheap & cheerful solution that works 🙂

Agreed 😉

Finished my DaytonRS100-4 Tabletop project with the Feixiang 2.1 for now, I guess the x-over works good enough for that purpose but I've learned my lesson well:

Don't finish up any speakerenclosure until you heared it's sound! 🙄

Unfortunately the overall sound doesn't quite match up with its looks and this is not because of the Amp, I guess..

So I left that for now, put a Dolry to my Sure 3116 and hooked it to some Heco Aleva 200 bookshelves to have a simple to use Airplay amp. An Alps pot with switch makes it a one-knob solution, I love that feature. The Dolry needs about 20 seconds to boot up and besides the Sure's little turn-off pop it's dead quiet. Sounds great imo and easily strikes the DTA-2, which I used before in a similar setup. No need for a sub anymore.

 

[Doctor J]

ust to clarify, is it the SMSL 3116 (SA-60) that you are talking about in your first paragraph (as possibly the overall best sounding stock based on specs)?

And, it is the SMSL 3118 that you feel is the best value?

I think xrk971 was talking about the SMSL 3118. Until your post, I had no idea SMSL had this TPA3116 board: she looks like a beauty! I just ordered the 3118 and now regret it.

 

[Saturnus]

That is to protect that input when powering down.

This cct is what I use on my boards.

With this cct the mute pin never sees more than 1mA reverse current.

Doug

A 2.2µF cap and a 22Kohm load resistor would probably work just as well. It only has to delay the MUTE pin unmuting for 10ms. 10µF and 10Kohm is 100ms, and 2.2µF and 22Kohm is 48.4ms. It's easier to find a small outline 2.2µF cap than a 10µF.

 

[donaldduck2004]

hi guys,
I'd like to change pot to this amp.What resistance I should choose?
Any suggested brand?

thanks 🙂

P.S. I have some other doubts but after having solved this... 😉