Here's a better shot of the rear panel showing the Switchcraft 722A 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power connector under the NKK toggle switch.
The 5.1kohm 1/4 watt resistor is wired in series with the mini green LED. There are good Web calculators for choosing the right resistor to wire in series with the LED of your choice.
Thanks wushuliu. The Bourns inductors seem to be making a difference. The sound is more coherent, detailed and clear. The bass and dynamic response is improved. This could be partly due to the Wima MKP10 caps as well.
Another great build, Rich. I think my next step will be to take Saturnus' advice and go monoblocks with ferrite bead and shortest speaker leads possible...
Best layout so far, TPA3116
This looks like the best layout so far:
Two SM ps caps right next to the pins (under the heatsink)
Main PS cap (switch for big one)
SM filter caps right at output pins with individual returns to the chip
Are those the gain select res next to the -input caps?
What's the cap beside those?
What's the cap at the front / right of the chip?
I wish the input coupling caps were larger (easier to tap or switch out) and closer to the chip ...
I wish we could get at the freq select pins more easily ...
What thinks you, xrk971?
Any other comments?
We have a weiner!
Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com
It's worth the 2 month delivery wait for me
This looks like the best layout so far:
Two SM ps caps right next to the pins (under the heatsink)
Main PS cap (switch for big one)
SM filter caps right at output pins with individual returns to the chip
Are those the gain select res next to the -input caps?
What's the cap beside those?
What's the cap at the front / right of the chip?
I wish the input coupling caps were larger (easier to tap or switch out) and closer to the chip ...
I wish we could get at the freq select pins more easily ...
What thinks you, xrk971?
Any other comments?
We have a weiner!
Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com
It's worth the 2 month delivery wait for me
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My apologies for cluttering the amp thread with this but didn't want to start a new thread for something so simple.
I did some reading on led's.
Assuming my 21-24w PS
assuming a red led will have a forward voltage of 1.8
The current driving the led would be 25 because I believe that's what I read it should be.
so that's
21
1.8
25
for a resistor of 1/8w or greater and 82 ohms. sound good? The calculator I used didn't like my number and told me to redo my math.
If that's right and wanted the led to be dimmer would I make my last number smaller?
AudioLapdance,
I agree that this board has perhaps one of the best layouts for best low noise performance. It is very clean and sparse looking. I think for the most part it follows the TI recommended schematic. There is a 1uF cap near the two gain select resistors and those are near the chip - not near the connectors. The components near the connector are the two input caps and the resistor and cap for the mute and SD pin. It is a very sturdy PCB with a dense ground plane on the other side. From what I heard, use of the tantalum caps on the output filter are also very good. The sound is excellent - superb upper range detail (probably because the tiny input cap doesn't pick up any RF) and the wire traces are all laid out very nicely. Yes, I complained about the delivery time, but having listened to it for a couple of days now, worth the wait.
I wish I took a better closeup picture before I glued the heatsinks on.
I think it is a winner if you don't want to mod it other than changing main ps caps and output inductors. I would like to get the Danzz blue board to compare with though. That board is made for modding.
I agree that this board has perhaps one of the best layouts for best low noise performance. It is very clean and sparse looking. I think for the most part it follows the TI recommended schematic. There is a 1uF cap near the two gain select resistors and those are near the chip - not near the connectors. The components near the connector are the two input caps and the resistor and cap for the mute and SD pin. It is a very sturdy PCB with a dense ground plane on the other side. From what I heard, use of the tantalum caps on the output filter are also very good. The sound is excellent - superb upper range detail (probably because the tiny input cap doesn't pick up any RF) and the wire traces are all laid out very nicely. Yes, I complained about the delivery time, but having listened to it for a couple of days now, worth the wait.
I wish I took a better closeup picture before I glued the heatsinks on.
I think it is a winner if you don't want to mod it other than changing main ps caps and output inductors. I would like to get the Danzz blue board to compare with though. That board is made for modding.
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82 ohms would cook the led and get very hot. Do it based on max current the led can handle. Typically 20 mA or so. R=V/I or 24v/0.02amp= 1200 ohm - that will be very bright. 2k to 5k will work too and be dimmer so led lasts longer.
I listened to the blue amp closely for most of the day switching between a few sets of speakers. Some said the amp sometimes get a hard edge in the upper register of female voices for example..I did notice this sometimes with speakers using metal tweeters and a tiny bit with silk domes.I am wondering if the detail of the amp is exposing maybe the limitation of the microphone used or compression in the recording.I'm going to hook up some ribbons later today.
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Smile2,
AudioLapDance,
I just cheat and solder my RCA cable pigtail directly to the bottom side.
Irribeo,
Yes, those input caps appear to be different sizes, but perhaps both same value (hopefully 1 uF)? The L & R mixup is common on Chinese-made class D amps and one just has to go with the physical location of the pins. I think for how the YBDZ board is laid out it is not a mistake and makes perfect sense for mounting if you want the output speaker connectors on the left side (pins 30 & 26) to physically go to the left speaker and right side (pins 24 & 20) to physically go to the right side for the right speaker. On the Lepai 2020 amp, I discovered that the 3.5mm input jack has L&R channels reversed while the RCA inputs are correct - this is indeed a mistake because you have no choice when using the 3.5mm jack with the tip being Left channel. I only found this because I was familiar with a record having snare drums soundstage flipped L&R when playing through 3.5 mm - LOL no one else detected this even after 500,000 posts!
Anyhow, just go by physical pin location for L&R.
I have a question about the gain setting caps on Smile2's photo: it looks like (markings 473) 47k and (markings 850) 85 ohms? Which doesn't correspond to the 36dB gain recommended values of 47k and 75k values. Am I reading the resistor values incorrectly? Also, the output filter does not seem to follow the typical RCR configuration per the TI spec sheet which has two caps and one resistor.
Yes - great pic. thanks!
AudioLapDance,
I think this is the standard 3-pin used by all the different YJ boards and you can get this for $0.40 at the YJ website: Yuan Jing Audio - Shielded Audio Cable 3P - $0.40
I just cheat and solder my RCA cable pigtail directly to the bottom side.
Irribeo,
Yes, those input caps appear to be different sizes, but perhaps both same value (hopefully 1 uF)? The L & R mixup is common on Chinese-made class D amps and one just has to go with the physical location of the pins. I think for how the YBDZ board is laid out it is not a mistake and makes perfect sense for mounting if you want the output speaker connectors on the left side (pins 30 & 26) to physically go to the left speaker and right side (pins 24 & 20) to physically go to the right side for the right speaker. On the Lepai 2020 amp, I discovered that the 3.5mm input jack has L&R channels reversed while the RCA inputs are correct - this is indeed a mistake because you have no choice when using the 3.5mm jack with the tip being Left channel. I only found this because I was familiar with a record having snare drums soundstage flipped L&R when playing through 3.5 mm - LOL no one else detected this even after 500,000 posts!
Anyhow, just go by physical pin location for L&R.
I have a question about the gain setting caps on Smile2's photo: it looks like (markings 473) 47k and (markings 850) 85 ohms? Which doesn't correspond to the 36dB gain recommended values of 47k and 75k values. Am I reading the resistor values incorrectly? Also, the output filter does not seem to follow the typical RCR configuration per the TI spec sheet which has two caps and one resistor.
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Finally got round to powering up and testing my YJ 2.0 Blue Board, and I'm having some issues with hiss/hum and I was therefore wondering if the more knowledgeable TPA3116 users could offer some advice/troubleshooting.
To help narrow down the issue, I removed the Alps Blue 100K pot I was using as a volume control from the input chain and instead switched over to the software volume control in my playback software.
When the RCA inputs are hooked up to the board and it's powered on but without a signal of any sort there is no noticeable hum/hiss, it may be there but I can't hear it. However when I start to play any music or have the music playing and the volume set to zero in the playback software, there is a very noticeable hiss.
I've gone through my cables/connections to the baord and made sure that all the shields are grounded; that the signals are going to the right pins; and that the solder joints are solid/correct and I can't see any issue with them.
Would it be that components on the board are picking up interference from an outside source?
I did read earlier in the thread about re-orientating the box caps at the input to help resolve issues with hum/static, would that be worth trying?
To help narrow down the issue, I removed the Alps Blue 100K pot I was using as a volume control from the input chain and instead switched over to the software volume control in my playback software.
When the RCA inputs are hooked up to the board and it's powered on but without a signal of any sort there is no noticeable hum/hiss, it may be there but I can't hear it. However when I start to play any music or have the music playing and the volume set to zero in the playback software, there is a very noticeable hiss.
I've gone through my cables/connections to the baord and made sure that all the shields are grounded; that the signals are going to the right pins; and that the solder joints are solid/correct and I can't see any issue with them.
Would it be that components on the board are picking up interference from an outside source?
I did read earlier in the thread about re-orientating the box caps at the input to help resolve issues with hum/static, would that be worth trying?
Blaides,
If you don't have hiss when no signal is present it probably is not pickup of noise by caps. Check the solder joints on the input caps to make sure they are not cold soldered. One other thing to try is to connect board ground and source ground to earth ground and power supply ground to same earth ground.
If you don't have hiss when no signal is present it probably is not pickup of noise by caps. Check the solder joints on the input caps to make sure they are not cold soldered. One other thing to try is to connect board ground and source ground to earth ground and power supply ground to same earth ground.
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I noticed that Yuanjing now has the "blue board" in an enclosure with power supply and volume control. Yuan Jing Audio - TPA3116 Class-D 2.0 Stereo Power Amplifier [50W+50W] - $88.00
Has anyone tried these out yet?
Has anyone tried these out yet?