So ohms law is subjective? Any boats out there want 20% distortion or a 20db cut at 1k?
The only time the transformer is "connected" (ignoring rf leakage) to the amp is when its charging the filter caps. Can you explain how shorter, larger current spikes make an amp sound better? You may get a few more volts on the filter caps but they still drop the rail voltage the same amount between pulses. So you might get a few more max watts. If your running your amp that hot you've got bigger problems. And large current spikes cause EM noise so an over speced transformer might not sound better. You make it sound like the bigger the better, I think there is a sweet spot.
As a side bar-
I did enjoy reading this focus...
http://www.conradhoffman.com/cap_measurements_100606.html
Best,
Jim
I often see the core material mostly often being debated to cause the sound difference. For the sound of a transformer, not only core matters, but weight, wire type and gauges, dielectric material, construction materials and any varnish or oil used. As well as winding strategy.
Yes. I often weight down my transformers to increase the bass.
jan
jan
Last edited:
Maybe I should try different kinds of transformer varnish to improve soundstage.
Or PRAT (is it written that way?)
Or PRAT (is it written that way?)
De-ringing networks should be used to level the comparisons base when swapping transformer types I would also think. Because each one can ring differently with a given diodes bridge.
If one fails to snubberize and there’s ringing - it can be considered a design flaw.
Remove just the varnish? No. Remove the polyurethane coating on the wire too. Lowers the resistance by quite a bit. Just stand way back when you plug it in.
Remove just the varnish? No. Remove the polyurethane coating on the wire too. Lowers the resistance by quite a bit. Just stand way back when you plug it in.
I think the power section capacitor bank size would have a lot to do with 'punch'....also the speakers.
Transformer opinions: India we do not get special custom made toroidal transformers of good quality. E-I is the preferred choice.
Also, look at the changes made to the standard 3886 circuit to result in 'Gainclone', that might be possible in this case, to improve the sound quality.
Basically, changes in path length and capacitance.
Many threads about it.
Transformer opinions: India we do not get special custom made toroidal transformers of good quality. E-I is the preferred choice.
Also, look at the changes made to the standard 3886 circuit to result in 'Gainclone', that might be possible in this case, to improve the sound quality.
Basically, changes in path length and capacitance.
Many threads about it.
Paul McGowan of PS Audio discusses 'power supply madness' and after some squirming around seems to concede that bigger is better....?
https://www.psaudio.com/pauls-posts/power-supply-madness/
https://www.psaudio.com/pauls-posts/power-supply-madness/
This is not necessarily on topic--but also not off-topic!
I've got a lot of tube equipment kits under my belt, and now two scratch-built amplifiers. Transitioning from the kits (AudioNote Kits, Bottlehead) to the scratch-built, I really became aware of the costs associated with individual parts along with the huge number of choices to make. Over at the Bottlehead forums, people obsess over, for example, the output coupling capacitors used in the "Crack" OTL headphone amplifier. I got swept up in the hysteria and installed enormous capacitors and, without ever doing any sort of A/B or blind testing, declared that they were a huge improvement.
Fast forward to after my first scratch-built amp--I removed the huge oil caps and restored the original electrolytics. On my HD-600 headphones, I could not hear a difference.
If I were to swap in a "huge" or "over-specified" transformer into that headphone amplifier, regardless of the type, what would happen?
A lot would depend on the internal resistance of the secondaries. Bottlehead uses custom-built transformers, and it's pretty likely that I would choose one "off the shelf" that didn't conform to any number of parameters of the original.
Would there be an improvement?
Honestly, it's a stupid question to ask. It's like wondering if "over-specified" screws would make your car ride better. Well, not if they didn't fit into the holes, or if the threads were inappropriately sized, or if the material of the screws added a huge amount of weight to the chassis, etc etc. All you are guaranteed to do is incur additional costs.
One thing I did recently to improve "slam" in my first scratch-built amp was to overhaul the power supply. The original was a modified version of the JE Labs SE Deluxe 2A3 schematic power supply. I modeled it in PSUD2 using the Antek transformer I bought and found that my CLCLCRCRC arrangement was shockingly bad. Just hideous. (I barely understood how to use it when I first built the amp). So I more than halved the total capacitance and shrunk each node's capacitance. I also wired the chokes in series. Etc etc. My updated power supply in PSUD2 (following DHT Rob's advice, which can easily be found by googling) looked nice and snappy with no ringing or overshoot. What happened when I queued up some tracks that were previously muddy in the bass? They were nice and resolved--they sounded like you would expect them to.
Does that outcome have anything to do with the fact that I used a toroidal transformer as opposed to another type? I don't think so. It has everything to do with the secondary resistance combined with the 5U4GB, then the input cap, the series chokes, and so on--all the way down to the fact that I reduced the final decoupling capacitor (for the 37 input tube) from 20uF to 1uF. I relied on simulated data to guide me, incremental changes, and listening.
As others have said, I would enjoy the Youtuber you mentioned at the outset as a sort of "tube amp popcorn"--you get to see the "equipment of the week." But rise above the fray and avoid the "fad component take of the week."
I've got a lot of tube equipment kits under my belt, and now two scratch-built amplifiers. Transitioning from the kits (AudioNote Kits, Bottlehead) to the scratch-built, I really became aware of the costs associated with individual parts along with the huge number of choices to make. Over at the Bottlehead forums, people obsess over, for example, the output coupling capacitors used in the "Crack" OTL headphone amplifier. I got swept up in the hysteria and installed enormous capacitors and, without ever doing any sort of A/B or blind testing, declared that they were a huge improvement.
Fast forward to after my first scratch-built amp--I removed the huge oil caps and restored the original electrolytics. On my HD-600 headphones, I could not hear a difference.
If I were to swap in a "huge" or "over-specified" transformer into that headphone amplifier, regardless of the type, what would happen?
A lot would depend on the internal resistance of the secondaries. Bottlehead uses custom-built transformers, and it's pretty likely that I would choose one "off the shelf" that didn't conform to any number of parameters of the original.
Would there be an improvement?
Honestly, it's a stupid question to ask. It's like wondering if "over-specified" screws would make your car ride better. Well, not if they didn't fit into the holes, or if the threads were inappropriately sized, or if the material of the screws added a huge amount of weight to the chassis, etc etc. All you are guaranteed to do is incur additional costs.
One thing I did recently to improve "slam" in my first scratch-built amp was to overhaul the power supply. The original was a modified version of the JE Labs SE Deluxe 2A3 schematic power supply. I modeled it in PSUD2 using the Antek transformer I bought and found that my CLCLCRCRC arrangement was shockingly bad. Just hideous. (I barely understood how to use it when I first built the amp). So I more than halved the total capacitance and shrunk each node's capacitance. I also wired the chokes in series. Etc etc. My updated power supply in PSUD2 (following DHT Rob's advice, which can easily be found by googling) looked nice and snappy with no ringing or overshoot. What happened when I queued up some tracks that were previously muddy in the bass? They were nice and resolved--they sounded like you would expect them to.
Does that outcome have anything to do with the fact that I used a toroidal transformer as opposed to another type? I don't think so. It has everything to do with the secondary resistance combined with the 5U4GB, then the input cap, the series chokes, and so on--all the way down to the fact that I reduced the final decoupling capacitor (for the 37 input tube) from 20uF to 1uF. I relied on simulated data to guide me, incremental changes, and listening.
As others have said, I would enjoy the Youtuber you mentioned at the outset as a sort of "tube amp popcorn"--you get to see the "equipment of the week." But rise above the fray and avoid the "fad component take of the week."
Unfortunately, the unsubstantiated opinions tend to spread the fastest online.
If you want a transformer with more or less punch, you have to look at the design of the transformer.
Normally (always actually) , toroidal transformers have much better cores than E I transformers. Therefore, many manufacturers make the compromise of having more copper losses to make cheaper transformers. All those design possibilities can make a transformer sound different.
In my opinion, c-cores (or even better cut R-cores) gives you the best design options.
Normally (always actually) , toroidal transformers have much better cores than E I transformers. Therefore, many manufacturers make the compromise of having more copper losses to make cheaper transformers. All those design possibilities can make a transformer sound different.
In my opinion, c-cores (or even better cut R-cores) gives you the best design options.
the same here. Very good transformers.
200W one is just warm on a full load.
I also used Edcor power transformers. Not bad at all and. A lot of different kind and not so pricy as Hammond.
You should consider the entire power supply as a unit, the rectifier and capacitors are part of it, and secondary regulation.
The supply must be 100% capable of providing max. load 24 x 7, without any kind of stress.
That's all, and many makers do compromise on that.
There are also considerations of no load vs. full load voltage regulation, transformer rating choice comes from that, and also core losses, too big a transformer will not be useful on those grounds.
The supply must be 100% capable of providing max. load 24 x 7, without any kind of stress.
That's all, and many makers do compromise on that.
There are also considerations of no load vs. full load voltage regulation, transformer rating choice comes from that, and also core losses, too big a transformer will not be useful on those grounds.