@gotanothergrot: Look at the picture perhaps it could help you..
@the othersfor what better type can i change the caps marked in the picture???
pls help me im so
Hi Ra77, those do appear to be the input caps so yes you could be able to change them for non-polar film caps or whatever. The polar caps are said by some to sound better in reverse polarity.... but that is a matter of opinion.
To be sure, we would need a good quality picture of both sides of the board so that we can see the tracks and where they go from the potentiometer.
'which capacitors are best?'
Do a search on the forum and you will find lots of suggestions depending on your budget.
Happy reading.... and chill out
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Adding larger capacitors across the DC supply
Hi,
I am not super familiar with the 2024 boards, but the concept is the same as the TP20 (TA2020) Tripath amp that I modded.
Basically you need to add more capacitance across the DC input terminals on the back panel, you use one (or more multiples in parallel) equaling up to about 8500uF. The capacitors are just standard electrolytic types with a 25v rating. Yes the caps have a + & - lead, so the 12v positive DC (red wire) in goes to the + side of the capacitor and negitive (black wire) goes to the - side. I suggest that you find a spot that you can easily solder wires to, whether its on the actual DC input socket, the power switch is a good spot to pick up a positive....
Hope this helps, also read a bit further back in this thread, I think Morfic answered the same request, his reply might help to
cheers.. Steve
Hi,
I am not super familiar with the 2024 boards, but the concept is the same as the TP20 (TA2020) Tripath amp that I modded.
Basically you need to add more capacitance across the DC input terminals on the back panel, you use one (or more multiples in parallel) equaling up to about 8500uF. The capacitors are just standard electrolytic types with a 25v rating. Yes the caps have a + & - lead, so the 12v positive DC (red wire) in goes to the + side of the capacitor and negitive (black wire) goes to the - side. I suggest that you find a spot that you can easily solder wires to, whether its on the actual DC input socket, the power switch is a good spot to pick up a positive....
Hope this helps, also read a bit further back in this thread, I think Morfic answered the same request, his reply might help to
cheers.. Steve
Hi,
I am not super familiar with the 2024 boards, but the concept is the same as the TP20 (TA2020) Tripath amp that I modded.
Basically you need to add more capacitance across the DC input terminals on the back panel, you use one (or more multiples in parallel) equaling up to about 8500uF. The capacitors are just standard electrolytic types with a 25v rating. Yes the caps have a + & - lead, so the 12v positive DC (red wire) in goes to the + side of the capacitor and negitive (black wire) goes to the - side. I suggest that you find a spot that you can easily solder wires to, whether its on the actual DC input socket, the power switch is a good spot to pick up a positive....
cheers.. Steve
I think I understand now. so it can be regarded as a spur from the positive amp supply to the positive part of the capacitor, and likewise for negative.
I googled this and came up with diagram for a car audio set up which I think illustrates the same thing
Attachments
TA2020 v TA2024
I own three Tripath amps and would highly recommend them for a small system with efficient speakers. Personally I prefer the TA2020 chip over the TA2024 (surface mount) but that's only my opinion!
I have a Topping TP20 which I have modded, I have found it to be well designed and constructed
I own three Tripath amps and would highly recommend them for a small system with efficient speakers. Personally I prefer the TA2020 chip over the TA2024 (surface mount) but that's only my opinion!
I have a Topping TP20 which I have modded, I have found it to be well designed and constructed
41Hz Audio:AMP32 kit
It's identical to a TA2024 but upside down, so that the heatsink is on the top.
Looking to buy a Topping amp, and have decided on the lastest 2 models. The TP20 mark2, Or the TP21 with head phone output included. I don't see that they have been discussed in this thread yet. Any input? I'd also like to hear Arjen's comments.
Heres the tp20 MK2 board
And the TP21 board
No comment on these current boards? Where did the experts run off too?
Did you end up buying one of these, if so any comments? If not, anyone else know anything about the TP20 in particular? Those yellow thingy's could they be caps on the 12V as was discussed earlier?
From the photo of the two amp boards, it looks like the TP21's headphone output is driven by a basic op amp--no big deal in terms of great sound quality. Other than that, it looks to be a nicer amp over the TP20 Mk II with 2 x 3,000uF Elna electrolytic caps (purple) on the DC power. I don't see any comparably-sized electrolytic caps on the TP 20 PCB. It also appears to have the same pair of 2.2uF film caps (yellow) for the input.
The TP21 has more thru-hole components like the Dale RN55 metal film resistors, which are nice. If someone wants to experiment with Carbon composition resistors like Kiwames or Rikens or other metal film resistors like PRPs, it's a lot easier to swap them in than trying to replace tiny surface mount resistors. These might be the feedback or gain level resistors. If anyone has a schematic of the TP21, that would be helpful for understanding the role of these thru-hole resistors. Anyhow, it looks like the TP21 has the space and layout for easier modding than the TP20.
In my experience with Class T amps, the power supply has a significant role in sound quality. I have modified a Power-One MAP110-S140 switching power supply by installing higher capacitance 2,200uF/50V Panasonic FM electrolytic caps in the secondary filter cap bank. I made my own DC umbilical cord by twisting a pair of 18 AWG Teflon-insulated Silver-plated Copper stranded MIL-SPEC wire with Switchcraft 2.1mm/5.5mm DC connectors. Like most switching power supplies, the output can be adjusted with a pot to boost the output voltage. The result was a warmer, richer sound and significantly better defined bass.
The TP21 has more thru-hole components like the Dale RN55 metal film resistors, which are nice. If someone wants to experiment with Carbon composition resistors like Kiwames or Rikens or other metal film resistors like PRPs, it's a lot easier to swap them in than trying to replace tiny surface mount resistors. These might be the feedback or gain level resistors. If anyone has a schematic of the TP21, that would be helpful for understanding the role of these thru-hole resistors. Anyhow, it looks like the TP21 has the space and layout for easier modding than the TP20.
In my experience with Class T amps, the power supply has a significant role in sound quality. I have modified a Power-One MAP110-S140 switching power supply by installing higher capacitance 2,200uF/50V Panasonic FM electrolytic caps in the secondary filter cap bank. I made my own DC umbilical cord by twisting a pair of 18 AWG Teflon-insulated Silver-plated Copper stranded MIL-SPEC wire with Switchcraft 2.1mm/5.5mm DC connectors. Like most switching power supplies, the output can be adjusted with a pot to boost the output voltage. The result was a warmer, richer sound and significantly better defined bass.
TP-30 anyone???
bought one of their new TP-30 on Ebay from the looks it is quite similar to the TP-21. but it has an built in PCM 2704 USB DAC. There is an OPA 2134 in the headphone amplifier Stage (Running my phones (Superlux HD-681, UE Super.fi 3) fine with no hiss until unbearable levels).
Running on my old Bose Studiocraft 200's (85dB) speakers it's quite fine.
So actually I'd like to ask if there are Mods which would improve SQ. I run it with an old Laptop Battery (10,8V) which is an improvement to the PSU which ca,e along with it. Would a Lead Battery (12V and up) improve it.
OPAMP rolling would be another possibility.
Other Speakers will come in March (CHR70, don't know which enclousure till now).
Also interesting would be swithing some inside Parts (caps and/or the coils from Arjen).
I'm sorry for not providing any pictures, but there are some on ebay.
bought one of their new TP-30 on Ebay from the looks it is quite similar to the TP-21. but it has an built in PCM 2704 USB DAC. There is an OPA 2134 in the headphone amplifier Stage (Running my phones (Superlux HD-681, UE Super.fi 3) fine with no hiss until unbearable levels).
Running on my old Bose Studiocraft 200's (85dB) speakers it's quite fine.
So actually I'd like to ask if there are Mods which would improve SQ. I run it with an old Laptop Battery (10,8V) which is an improvement to the PSU which ca,e along with it. Would a Lead Battery (12V and up) improve it.
OPAMP rolling would be another possibility.
Other Speakers will come in March (CHR70, don't know which enclousure till now).
Also interesting would be swithing some inside Parts (caps and/or the coils from Arjen).
I'm sorry for not providing any pictures, but there are some on ebay.
Hi, just bought one of the tp20 from ebay and want to do the dc line mod.
I have got some rubycon caps but for the life of me can not solder at all.
I have tried and I cant get the stuff to stick.
My question - is there anybody in nottingham who could do this for me I would be very greatfull.
Thanks Nick.
I have got some rubycon caps but for the life of me can not solder at all.
I have tried and I cant get the stuff to stick.
My question - is there anybody in nottingham who could do this for me I would be very greatfull.
Thanks Nick.
Just had my third attempt at soldering this mod and succeeded due to looking up soldering tutorials on youtube.
Sounds much better in the lower end with slightly better control and seperation but I would still like more of an open sound. Is there any other mods to this amp that would achieve more openess?
Nick.
Sounds much better in the lower end with slightly better control and seperation but I would still like more of an open sound. Is there any other mods to this amp that would achieve more openess?
Nick.
I received my Topping TP21 from Arjen yesterday and got it all hooked up. I have it driving some fairly inefficient speakers (87db?) right now and it sounds good. I was using a Trends 10.1 before and I can't tell them apart. It's very quiet with no noticeable buzz or hum until the volume is all the way up and even then I have to have my ear 10cm from the speaker. I'm using a Lian Li 4.5A SMPS.
The amp is larger than I imagined and it's really nicely put together. The binding posts are not the standard width apart so I had to use use some different banana plugs. The blue ring around the volume is nice and dim. I'll pull the cover off in the next couple days and post some nudes.
The amp is larger than I imagined and it's really nicely put together. The binding posts are not the standard width apart so I had to use use some different banana plugs. The blue ring around the volume is nice and dim. I'll pull the cover off in the next couple days and post some nudes.
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