Well, I ordered a pound supply from that site. It'll be here in time for NEXT weekend. Oh well. I guess I COULD be doing other work, like hanging curtains.
This spiral-shaped TL is getting closer and closer to finished.
Dave
This spiral-shaped TL is getting closer and closer to finished.
Dave
Come Monday, I would call Protective Coatings at (610) 432-3543, (yes, I know it isn't an 800 number, but the conversation should be short), and see if there is anyone in your area that has the stuff, just in case you run out.
http://www.pcepoxy.com/WhereToFind.htm
If they only have a marine store that stocks PC11, ask them if the two are compatible, assuming you are not using water in the mixture.
Has to be someone in the large St. Louis area that has it. I mean, you have a baseball team, a football team, but nobody who stocks PC7 or PC11?
http://www.pcepoxy.com/WhereToFind.htm
If they only have a marine store that stocks PC11, ask them if the two are compatible, assuming you are not using water in the mixture.
Has to be someone in the large St. Louis area that has it. I mean, you have a baseball team, a football team, but nobody who stocks PC7 or PC11?
...and a hockey team, don't forget 😉
When I said "All over the city" I meant my region of the city. I'm sure that somewhere in mid-town or north county stocks it, that is, if PC products are sold west of the Mississippi and east of the Rockies.
Dave
PS--I live in south city. Yes, St. Louis is big enough that one cannot traverse all the hardware stores in one afternoon.
When I said "All over the city" I meant my region of the city. I'm sure that somewhere in mid-town or north county stocks it, that is, if PC products are sold west of the Mississippi and east of the Rockies.
Dave
PS--I live in south city. Yes, St. Louis is big enough that one cannot traverse all the hardware stores in one afternoon.
Two reasons:
1) Because Kelticwizard said so.
2) Because of the "human element."
a) PVC pipe is not perfectly round.
b) I couldn't saw any more accurately than 1/8th".
That means there are a lot of little nicks and stuff as well as imperfect fitting. I'll need an epoxy to make the pieces adhere with strength, but will allow some time to play with it while I get things lined up.
As far as I could learn, PVC cement won't allow me time to do that, nor will it fill in gaps and imperfections.
Dave
1) Because Kelticwizard said so.
2) Because of the "human element."
a) PVC pipe is not perfectly round.
b) I couldn't saw any more accurately than 1/8th".
That means there are a lot of little nicks and stuff as well as imperfect fitting. I'll need an epoxy to make the pieces adhere with strength, but will allow some time to play with it while I get things lined up.
As far as I could learn, PVC cement won't allow me time to do that, nor will it fill in gaps and imperfections.
Dave
Funny Story
My speakers had no bass today. I had no idea why. Panic and depression took over. Why did my speakers have no bass?!? I've tried everything!
The last three sliders of my 10-band soft-eq were at full negative for something I was doing yesterday.
Whew!
Dave
My speakers had no bass today. I had no idea why. Panic and depression took over. Why did my speakers have no bass?!? I've tried everything!
The last three sliders of my 10-band soft-eq were at full negative for something I was doing yesterday.
Whew!
Dave
😛 😛
(Winamp..?)
Ok so you need to fill gaps and have play time... just beware: the material has to be real clean otherwise it'll peel right off. Clean with some paper towels and laquer thinner, I think. (The thinner doubles as solvent for the epoxy - before it sets! - if you need to clean it off something.)
I still don't get good vibes about plastic and epoxy, but we'll see.
Tim
(Winamp..?)
Ok so you need to fill gaps and have play time... just beware: the material has to be real clean otherwise it'll peel right off. Clean with some paper towels and laquer thinner, I think. (The thinner doubles as solvent for the epoxy - before it sets! - if you need to clean it off something.)
I still don't get good vibes about plastic and epoxy, but we'll see.
Tim
Here are a couple of links that might be credited against your doubts.
http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies.htm# (click on the product information link for a pop-up info window. The paragraph under the heading "description" defines why I want to use it)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=127328#post127328 (this is kelticwizard's research results)
Dave
and it was windows media player.
http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies.htm# (click on the product information link for a pop-up info window. The paragraph under the heading "description" defines why I want to use it)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=127328#post127328 (this is kelticwizard's research results)
Dave
and it was windows media player.
I know I suggested this before... but I still think its a good idea.. so once more. Get a sheet of course sandpaper 60-80 grit.. and glue this to a flat board. You can then clean your cut edges by drawing the pipe across the sand paper. If you have even reasonably clean edges you will be able to use standard pvc cement. If necessary you can still add bondo or some other epoxy around the sides.. but I think that the contact edge is going to provide the best purchace for making a solid joint.
Steve,
You've shown such great wisdom during this process that I would be a fool to do otherwise.
I do have this one reservation: all of the cements I've encountered leave only a few seconds of play. I'm afraid that I'm going to need more time, especially once I start joining the subassemblies together. It's pretty hard to line up the segments in so short a time.
Dave
You've shown such great wisdom during this process that I would be a fool to do otherwise.
I do have this one reservation: all of the cements I've encountered leave only a few seconds of play. I'm afraid that I'm going to need more time, especially once I start joining the subassemblies together. It's pretty hard to line up the segments in so short a time.
Dave
I suggest that you first align the two peices carefully (prior to gluing) establish this alignment by placing 2 marks across the joint at opposite sides of the pipe. It will be easy to align the pipe again using these two marks as your reference. The pvc cement comes with a applicator built into the cap... you'll be able to apply a layer of cement to both segments, line up your marks, and fiddle around for a perfect fit with plenty of time left before the cement sets. Give it a try on one of your scrap pieces...
One word of caution about pvc cement, if you get it in any cuts it will burn really bad
Also, use proper ventilation as the fumes are toxic, and don't use it inside your house. A tiny indoor job is not so bad but for all you have to do, not. You may want to wear rubber gloves. Good Luck
Also, use proper ventilation as the fumes are toxic, and don't use it inside your house. A tiny indoor job is not so bad but for all you have to do, not. You may want to wear rubber gloves. Good Lucki don't know how this pvc adhesive works, but if it's similar to plastic adhesives (like 'superglue' types), where the liquid melts the pvc together, here's a method that might work. it's one way plastic modelers get a good solid (and solid-looking) fit:
set your pieces up in whatever clamp or jig you want, so that the surfaces are together already. then apply the adhesive all around the outside, allowing capillary action to draw it into the joint. you can do the same with the inside of the joint. after it seems the cracks are more or less filled, tighten your clamp so that the melted goop oozes out a bit. you can sand it off later.
if the adhesive doesn't work by melting...well maybe that method will still work. depends on how fluid it is. if it's goopy or pastey stuff, it might not work so well. but really fluid stuff flows into cracks pretty well.
......
more unsolicited suggestions - if you're worried about the uneven cracks for structural reasons, i would use the pvc glue first, and then go back and fill in with epoxy.
if you're less concerned about structure and more about sound/air escaping, i would just use silicone caulk to fill in gaps. if i'm not mistaken you're planning to cover the whole thing with cloth anyway, so it doesn't matter too much how clean it looks.
hope all is going well!
/andrew
set your pieces up in whatever clamp or jig you want, so that the surfaces are together already. then apply the adhesive all around the outside, allowing capillary action to draw it into the joint. you can do the same with the inside of the joint. after it seems the cracks are more or less filled, tighten your clamp so that the melted goop oozes out a bit. you can sand it off later.
if the adhesive doesn't work by melting...well maybe that method will still work. depends on how fluid it is. if it's goopy or pastey stuff, it might not work so well. but really fluid stuff flows into cracks pretty well.
......
more unsolicited suggestions - if you're worried about the uneven cracks for structural reasons, i would use the pvc glue first, and then go back and fill in with epoxy.
if you're less concerned about structure and more about sound/air escaping, i would just use silicone caulk to fill in gaps. if i'm not mistaken you're planning to cover the whole thing with cloth anyway, so it doesn't matter too much how clean it looks.
hope all is going well!
/andrew
kneadle said:
Taken from the directions:
"Surfaces to be bonded must be free of dirt, oil, rust, etc. Denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner are excellent for removing oil, fingerprints, etc."
My advice still applies 😉
It has EQ? Humm..
Tim (only has the basic comes-with-windows, un-bloatware version)
just a little update
I did a little stress test while I wait for time to finally glue these things together--that is, a stress test on the enclosure itself to see where the center of gravity is and which seams are holding which weight and such.
Both enclosures fell apart at about the same point, one at segments 5 and 6, the other at 6 and 7. That's about halfway down. Seems obvious, but I wanted to be sure.
At any rate, that's unimportant right now. What is important is that they sound like CRAP with only 5 or 6 segments of length. TL theory actually works! I can't WAIT to seal these and mount them properly!
Oh, and while I'm posting...
I have a forum protocol question. I was thinking that when I'm finished, I'd like to post a new thread so that those who have grown weary of this one might become interested again and see the final results. Is that ethical? Don't want to ruffle any feathers. I'd refer to this thread, of course...
Dave
I did a little stress test while I wait for time to finally glue these things together--that is, a stress test on the enclosure itself to see where the center of gravity is and which seams are holding which weight and such.
Both enclosures fell apart at about the same point, one at segments 5 and 6, the other at 6 and 7. That's about halfway down. Seems obvious, but I wanted to be sure.
At any rate, that's unimportant right now. What is important is that they sound like CRAP with only 5 or 6 segments of length. TL theory actually works! I can't WAIT to seal these and mount them properly!
Oh, and while I'm posting...
I have a forum protocol question. I was thinking that when I'm finished, I'd like to post a new thread so that those who have grown weary of this one might become interested again and see the final results. Is that ethical? Don't want to ruffle any feathers. I'd refer to this thread, of course...
Dave
For the Record
I thought I should post some photos for the record. Things are going without a hitch so far. I'm finished with phase one, i.e., the first subassemblies are done.
For the record, I went with the epoxy-only route because the Canadian winter we are experiencing in St. Louis has made my workshop uninhabitable. The PC-7 stuff is quite non-toxic, and works very well, so far.
The main difficulty, you will see, is the torque that gravity causes on these non-symmetrical objects. I solved the problem the best my means would allow.
After these pictures will come 2 more pictures, then radio silence until I'm competely finished.
I think.
Dave
** Edit **
can you believe that these will become a speaker enclosure of some veritable quality?
I thought I should post some photos for the record. Things are going without a hitch so far. I'm finished with phase one, i.e., the first subassemblies are done.
For the record, I went with the epoxy-only route because the Canadian winter we are experiencing in St. Louis has made my workshop uninhabitable. The PC-7 stuff is quite non-toxic, and works very well, so far.
The main difficulty, you will see, is the torque that gravity causes on these non-symmetrical objects. I solved the problem the best my means would allow.
After these pictures will come 2 more pictures, then radio silence until I'm competely finished.
I think.
Dave
** Edit **
can you believe that these will become a speaker enclosure of some veritable quality?
Attachments
uh oh
I just heard a noise that sounded like PVC pipe falling a short distance. I wonder if gravity somehow prevailed?
...time passes...
whew. It was just a stack of reference books.
Dave
I just heard a noise that sounded like PVC pipe falling a short distance. I wonder if gravity somehow prevailed?
...time passes...
whew. It was just a stack of reference books.
Dave
- Status
- Not open for further replies.