Actually, that sounds like great idea to me. The only thing i would be afraid of is glue getting into the threads of a T-nut.
Besides that, i think you should be OK 🙂
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Ok, but I have decided to use it as is but remove one of the tags closest to the edge. In that way I will not risk anything to crack. I will also put some glue under the t-nut before driving it in. I only have this problem on one of the tweeter ( I made the hole a little too big).
I tried driving them in without removing a tag but I got a slight cracking (delaminating) so when mounting the woofers I will remove one tag per T-nut closest to the edge of the hole for the woofer to make sure it doesn´t crack. I used a hammer taking it slow and easy but I think the delaminating could be avoided if not using a hammer, driving it in with a screw and washer. I will try this next time. Takes experience to mount these it seems.
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Got some cheap 2.5mm speaker cable, I think it will do to start with. This weekend I will do the crossover and hopefully play a little to see if everything is ok! Exciting 🙂!
great starre, looking forward for your first impression.
i checked back the stereophile review of your performa, they are indeed great speakers.
measured very well also.
cheers
henry
i checked back the stereophile review of your performa, they are indeed great speakers.
measured very well also.
cheers
henry
Reminds me a bit of an updated DBS4- a kit design in the now log defunct UK magazine Practical Hi-fi, designed by Dave Berriman.
Hi Salas, I have started with the crossover, so far I have fixed the terminals and the capacitors soldered together (se picture). My thought is to keep all of the legs original lenght for now and later when I am happy with the layout and so on I will resolder it making it better looking (shortening the legs). I am making my first crossover so I am not familiar with how you do this the best way, but I am used to soldering things together. The capacitor "packets" will then be connected to other components using contact blocks with screws.
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Yes I have been reading about that so I will be careful, that wooden base I am using is rather big so I got plenty of space 🙂.
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In reply to post #70 Salas: No, that was the DBS6- I didn't get to build or listen to that one. The DBS4 was about 38 litres, so a bit smaller than the Tired, and used the SEAS 21FWB-M 8" paper mid-bass unit and originally the SEAS H107 (1"?) plastic dome tweeter. The MkII used the SEAS H253- I think- which was similar to the tweeter in the Mission 770 of the time. The MkII also had some crossover changes to suit the new tweeter and revisions to the bracing and internal foam damping. A particular feature was the use of drinking straws in the ports, in the manner of contemporary Celef loudspeakers. My brother still uses DBS5s, which were 7 litre closed boxes using the KEF B110B and the Scan-Speak D2008 tweeter. The later DBS7 was built by a friend of mine to replace his own DBS4s, which were stolen. That was a slim floorstander using one of the variants of the Audax HM170Zx aerogel cone mid-bass units and the Morel MDT30 tweeter, reflex loaded. IIRC there was also a DBS8 which used a SEAS coaxial driver and, I seem to remember, a second SEAS bass unit in a sealed box. All the ones I heard were very good. The DBS5 was printed in Practical Hi-fi in the early '80s, with the rest published in Hi-fi News. Dave now works for Epos as head of speaker design. Well you did ask Salas! More information than you wanted no doubt! Anyway, the Tired strongly resembles the DBS4, in outline at least. It's all in the execution though of course. And now we return to the focus of the thread...
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Thanks for the detailed answer. The Tired was born out of pure necessity, nothing ambitious. The old cab dictated it basically. Still in service with my friend though.
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