This is not just another gainclone

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In my multiamp clone system I use unshielded solid core isolation varnished wire , the kind used for transformers and motors. I go from 2mm diameter for bass to 1,75mm for mid and 1mm for high.
I use them twisted but soon I'm going to try them untwisted.
They drive horns expect for woofers and they sound very good compared to multistrand wire. Very much in the gainclone philosophy with 4,00Euro I wired my four ways system.
Giorgio
 
I use solid core CAT5. It has high quality copper. Only the insulator is not so good.

Fedde, I made my latest interconnects using uninsulated wires that were run through shoe laces and they sound really good!

Obviously speaker cables are (usually) longer than interconnects but you could use a number of laces glued together. That's what I'm intendiing to do with the .4mm wires.
 
Star-Quad Non-Directional Interconnect.

Take a single strand of telephone wire four times the length of your desired interconnect length.
Preferrably use non-tinned plain copper single strand solid core wire (telephone or Cat-5 wire).
Silver plated copper wire can add a false brightness.

For this example the interconnect cable length is one foot = four feet of single strand wire.

The first two feet of wire goes from Source Active to Load Active and back to the Source Active.
The next two feet go from Source Neutral to Load Neutral and back to the Source Neutral.

These four wires should be placed in star-quad configuration, and twisted as desired.
A sheath tube or braid material can be placed over the outside.
The above suggestion of a hollow shoe lace sounds cheap and practical - thanks Nuuk.

This quad soloution is cheap and easy to make and pays very big sonic dividends - white insulated telephone wire sounds best to my ear.

By ensuring non-directional characteristic, depth imaging is much clearer and more realistic than any other cable that I have auditioned.
Lows, mids and highs are clean, clear and straight in my experience.

Induced noise may occur, but should not usually be a problem - if desired, a woven copper braid may be blaced over the audio conductors, and grounded at one end.

Try it !.

Eric.
 

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2Bak said:
Carlos, only two cat5 strands per channel, like on the pic !
I admit that bass/mid is thin, however my present speakers are weak in bass, so I cannot really judge...

See this post showing the TNT twisted cables that I tried usuccesfully on my CG.

The original TNT project, by Thorsten, implemented three 4 pair Cat-5 cables, to take care of the current. You could use more wires for the bass, if you were bi-wiring though.

But it was never suggested using just a Cat-5 wire pair as sole cable.


Carlos
 
cunning plan

although we have decided that the gainclone does not sound as good with more capacitance - this dosn't really help as is it not really regulating the powersupply, and with the fact that battery run gainclones sound good - it makes me think that having a regulated power supply might be a good idea - if anyone can give me a sutable schematic to use (possably an adaption of a naim amp?) then i will test it out
 
lohk said:
bricolo,

you are using the TDA7294 ? I am not sure...
This is an intirely different circuit to the LM3875.
Even if you use it in inverting mode (it seems not to be designed for), you must connect it differently:
You probably forgot the bootstrap cap (22yF) from pin 6 to pin 14 (output).
This chip has FOUR supply rails (pin 7 +Vs and 13 +PWVs, pin 8 -Vs and 15 -PWS) which all must be bypassed with caps individually even if you connect plus and minus supplies together. I would recommend the bigger caps to close the power and the smaller ones close the other pins.
Pin 1 is the standby ground, connected individually to ground. Pin 9 is standby, if you are not using it,leave it open.
Pin 4 is the second non-inverting input, typically connected to ground for mute, switched in by mute at pin 10, if you are not using it, leave it open.



On TDA7294 mute and stanby (pin 9 and 10) should be left open or connected with resistors (22k and 10K) to pos. supply?
 
Nobody can have failed to notice that this thread is getting very long and although I have read every post along the way, it is very difficult to find specific topics (especially for anybody new to the thread).

Can I suggest that we start a new topic for speaker cables used with the Gainclone? And which section should we start it in?
 
I agree this thread is getting too long but it does seem like a nice "catch all" thread. Perhaps this thread should be retired as "Part 1" and a new one started with the same name but "part 2". Then people can refer back to part 1 or 2 to minimise searches. Maybe retire the threads a little more frequently.

On the regulated power supply note....it just clicked in that a regulated power supply might be the answer for many of us with Xformers having too much voltage. I have a 29V one....what regulator can I use...ie;with that AC voltage, what regulation voltage can I shoot for? Yes I am too lazy to scan the regulator data sheets....

John S.
 
Soucie said:

On the regulated power supply note....it just clicked in that a regulated power supply might be the answer for many of us with Xformers having too much voltage. I have a 29V one....what regulator can I use...ie;with that AC voltage, what regulation voltage can I shoot for? Yes I am too lazy to scan the regulator data sheets....

John S.


well.. ive decided on 24v regulators - they can handle about 1A each so im getting many and putting them in parrallel.. i havn't found any above that and dont really want to use adjustable regulators because of the added effort... and im a very lazy person
 
carlmart said:


The original TNT project, by Thorsten, implemented three 4 pair Cat-5 cables, to take care of the current. You could use more wires for the bass, if you were bi-wiring though.

But it was never suggested using just a Cat-5 wire pair as sole cable.


Carlos


Carlos, perhaps we misunderstand each other...
My TNT FFRC cable showed on this picture is in fact braided exactly as the one on the TNT website.

However, I don't use this FFRC for my GC, cause I had distortion. Now I use two solid core wires from this telephone cable, shown above, and it really lets deep bass come through, believe it or not, and I can confirm this now after having set up my other speakers which go down to 30Hz.

/Jan
 
As I was curious about the differences between LM3875 and the LM1875 I decided to build another clone today based on the LM1875. But this time an inverted configuration (I also used other components thus a 1-on-1 comparison is not possible).

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


because I'm listening to it and find it hard to open up the amp, pictures of it's guts will have to wait until tomorrow. Some more pictures and rest of the story can be found on
my diy-page look under GainClown :clown: (I found myself a nice on/off switch you see, and I need to find a matching knob for the volume control).

Maarten
 
Dustin Haug said:
Could a regulator like Mr. Pass suggests for the Zen amps be used. Seems you could easily tweak your rail voltage to pretty much whatever you wanted by adding/removing zeners.
I think the regulator only works well with a constant load.
It might fluctuate heavily in dynamic music passages with a class B amplifier.
Probably a LM350 integrated regulator or the like are better for big changes in current flow.
On the other side the PSSR of the LM chips might be sufficient to cope with that.:scratch:

Jens
 
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