I see what you mean now fedde, and if it proves to be a problem, i know how to fix it. I'll make a nylon bolt to fasten the back of the powersuply.
Thanks for the info!
PS. I live 10 minutes cycling from the (Northsea beach)
Thanks for the info!
PS. I live 10 minutes cycling from the (Northsea beach)
damn you all!
I do envy all those people that have access to good machinery...
I just have to make do with a standard stainless steel box thingy from a dutch household store (Hema)...
Oh well, for a first incarnation it's not that bad. Before finishing the next version I will look for a better case.
BTW; where do you (dutch guys) get your parts from? Haven't really been able to find a nice (and not too expensive) supplier for say resistors & capacitors.
More pics on my site
I do envy all those people that have access to good machinery...
I just have to make do with a standard stainless steel box thingy from a dutch household store (Hema)...
Oh well, for a first incarnation it's not that bad. Before finishing the next version I will look for a better case.
BTW; where do you (dutch guys) get your parts from? Haven't really been able to find a nice (and not too expensive) supplier for say resistors & capacitors.
More pics on my site
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Jerry T.
Mabe you can put another LED just above the volume knob's as to indicate a central position so you can see what position the volume knob actually is in compared with the central LED indicator.
If it makes sense
Just my 2 cents
Mabe you can put another LED just above the volume knob's as to indicate a central position so you can see what position the volume knob actually is in compared with the central LED indicator.
If it makes sense
Just my 2 cents
Matjans- those are pretty cool looking even if they aren't machined. Were they storage containers of some sort?
Scribble said:
Thanks for the suggestion, but 4 LED's will be to much IMO.
The LED's are there so you can see if the volume on both channels is the same.
PS. MATJANS cool lookin' GC !
Cool,
I like the HEMA housings. Very nice results. Why didn't you use your version 1 inside that box, it seems to have better components?
You can buy Black Gate caps in NL from http://www.acoustic-dimension.com , they're not very expensive. But for larger quantities it's better to buy on line in US.
regards,
Maarten
I like the HEMA housings. Very nice results. Why didn't you use your version 1 inside that box, it seems to have better components?
You can buy Black Gate caps in NL from http://www.acoustic-dimension.com , they're not very expensive. But for larger quantities it's better to buy on line in US.
regards,
Maarten
Here's the story of Super-E BG's:
http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/DIY/blackgate/bgn-technical2.htm
Not a bad idea, the hema cases. I was still looking for something appropriate for my toroids. (I want to get rid of my 19" case)
Fedde
http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/DIY/blackgate/bgn-technical2.htm
Not a bad idea, the hema cases. I was still looking for something appropriate for my toroids. (I want to get rid of my 19" case)
Fedde
fedde said:
the metal plate on a toroid is connected to the windings? why is this not a problem when using two transformers in one metal box? 😕
The metal plate on the top of the transformer is not big enough to touch the metal case and complete a circuit (that's why they always have a small diamter).
It's not that the plate or bolt are connected to the windings, rather that they can form an extra, external winding that is uninsulated.
Nuuk said:
fdegrove said:
ahhh, so how should i mount the transformers in the PSU i am building? nylon bolts? is this a problem if the case is earthed?
Matttcattt said:
Hi,
Theoretically speaking:
If you use two identical transformers, and if you place them "face to face", then the induced voltage in the bolt of one transformer will be equal to the induced voltage of the other. But, those two voltages will be out of phase. The resulting current will be zero (i.e. no current). In this case you don't need nylon bolts.
Practically speaking:
Use nylon bolts. 😀
Regards
Hi,
It normally shouldn't be a problem for as long as you don't mount anything else on top of it such as your circuit.
Some manufacturers of toroids provide neoprene washers the size of the clampling plate to mount inbetween top and bottom.
Let's not go paranoid on this.
If standard mounting procedures are followed no problems will occur.
Earthing the casing is not a problem whatsoever.
Hope this helps,😉
Edit: I just spotted Moamps' post. Do you intend to mount one on top of the other?
While toroids have smaller magnetic fields than, say, EI cored ones, stacking them is not a good idea.
It normally shouldn't be a problem for as long as you don't mount anything else on top of it such as your circuit.
Some manufacturers of toroids provide neoprene washers the size of the clampling plate to mount inbetween top and bottom.
Let's not go paranoid on this.
If standard mounting procedures are followed no problems will occur.
Earthing the casing is not a problem whatsoever.
Hope this helps,😉
Edit: I just spotted Moamps' post. Do you intend to mount one on top of the other?
While toroids have smaller magnetic fields than, say, EI cored ones, stacking them is not a good idea.
Matttcattt said:
Just putt it in the "normal" way, as long as the bolt is only connected to the chassis on one side.
The problem with our (Maarten & Jerry) PSU is that it makes a "loop", both ends of the bolt are in contact with the chassis. (see picture a couple of posts back)
So by isolating one side of it, it will be ok (for us), so i'm told !
RE: Variac
Variac: yes, they are storage boxes. Normally used in an upright position. It's a HELL of a job to build the GC into it. It took me 5 (yes, five) hours to drill all the holes in the stainless steel.
maarten: the reason why i cased the second version (with lesser quality components) is that it sounded a lot better. Currently I'm looking for high quality components to build a third incarnation... I like your gaincard-lookalike-case btw!
Variac: yes, they are storage boxes. Normally used in an upright position. It's a HELL of a job to build the GC into it. It took me 5 (yes, five) hours to drill all the holes in the stainless steel.
maarten: the reason why i cased the second version (with lesser quality components) is that it sounded a lot better. Currently I'm looking for high quality components to build a third incarnation... I like your gaincard-lookalike-case btw!
moamps said:
fdegrove said:
Jerry T. said:
to clarify, my situation: i have two identicle (same rating and voltage etc.) toroids, and i want to put them in a rectangular box, side by side, as long as the bolt only goes through one side of the box, this is fine, and i wont get rail voltages on the case? i have added an image to ilistrate.
Attachments
That's fine Matt. What you have to watch out for is that the metal fixing bolt(s) does not make any contact with the top of a metal case if you are using one.
Otherwise, bolting them to the bottom of the (metal)case with metal bolts (as supplied usually) is fine.
Otherwise, bolting them to the bottom of the (metal)case with metal bolts (as supplied usually) is fine.
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