Millwood
How does a 1" thick frontplate make it all high-end? It has the same dimensions as the Gaincard, High-end enough for ya!
Joe Dirt
That's not a bad idea, putting a LED in the front of the knob. I'll definetly look into it! Don't know if it's possible though. I'd Have to consult Maarten about it.
Scribble
Thanks for the compliments! Well, atleast i think it's a compliment to be compared to Peter Daniel's work.
Planet 10
I think those Golden knobs are a bit too much for such a small amp. The front plate is only 170mm X 40mm, They'll stick out a bit to much i think. But thanks for the idea.
How does a 1" thick frontplate make it all high-end? It has the same dimensions as the Gaincard, High-end enough for ya!
Joe Dirt
That's not a bad idea, putting a LED in the front of the knob. I'll definetly look into it! Don't know if it's possible though. I'd Have to consult Maarten about it.
Scribble
Thanks for the compliments! Well, atleast i think it's a compliment to be compared to Peter Daniel's work.
Planet 10
I think those Golden knobs are a bit too much for such a small amp. The front plate is only 170mm X 40mm, They'll stick out a bit to much i think. But thanks for the idea.
Jerry T. said:
Good question. I was wondering about the same when I read one of Peter's posts where he wrote:
"With 3/4" front plate it has to be high-end: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...ht=jeff+rowland"
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=247360#post247360
I recommended 1" plate just to be safe.
Anyway, i am going to make new knobs 
They will look like the Gold plated model shown by Dave, and i'm thinkin' about countersinkin' (is that right?) them into the front plate. That way it will look more like a whole. And, if possible, we will put a small blue LED in the frontside of the knobs (i realy like this idea). I would like the same blue LED in the PSU aswell, i think it looks better than a red LED anyway. I'll post a new pic when i've finished the new knobs.
They will look like the Gold plated model shown by Dave, and i'm thinkin' about countersinkin' (is that right?) them into the front plate. That way it will look more like a whole. And, if possible, we will put a small blue LED in the frontside of the knobs (i realy like this idea). I would like the same blue LED in the PSU aswell, i think it looks better than a red LED anyway. I'll post a new pic when i've finished the new knobs.Can someone please enlight: what exactly is high-end?
Does size matter? Why will 1" better than 3/4"? What if I use hard and rare material? say Cocobolo or Zebrawood. Will it be high-end if the cover looks similar to:
http://www.guild.com/item_images/A/3101-3200/large/A3112-022l.jpg
or
http://www.guild.com/item_images/A/3101-3200/large/A3112-038l.jpg
I understand that the pictures technically are not amplifiers, but they are box-shape and cost plenty.
Does size matter? Why will 1" better than 3/4"? What if I use hard and rare material? say Cocobolo or Zebrawood. Will it be high-end if the cover looks similar to:
http://www.guild.com/item_images/A/3101-3200/large/A3112-022l.jpg
or
http://www.guild.com/item_images/A/3101-3200/large/A3112-038l.jpg
I understand that the pictures technically are not amplifiers, but they are box-shape and cost plenty.
duh.. he's playin' with you
Millwood is having fun with you guys and you don't get it apparently. Yeah what is 'High-End' exactly.? It is a combo of perception and performance blended in an alchemical potion I would say.
Millwood is having fun with you guys and you don't get it apparently. Yeah what is 'High-End' exactly.? It is a combo of perception and performance blended in an alchemical potion I would say.
Sad thing is that I was playing with him too and he didn't get it (or maybe didn't want to).😉
Hi,
Oh boy, looking better by the minute...
BTW, Jerry, the LED does have to be active...just use it as an indicator of the position of the volctrl.
Cheers,😉
Oh boy, looking better by the minute...
BTW, Jerry, the LED does have to be active...just use it as an indicator of the position of the volctrl.
Cheers,😉
fdegrove said:
That was what i had in mind, but the trick is to realise this whole idea. Building in a LED isn't that hard, it's getting it to work.
Any suggestions?
Hi,
Those damn typos...
My apologies...don't know why but this happens to me all the time... I meant the led does NOT have to active, just use it as a visable indicator for viewing the position of the knob.
I can't put my finger on it but I think this has been done before by other companies.
Pretty cool if you ask me,😉
Those damn typos...
My apologies...don't know why but this happens to me all the time... I meant the led does NOT have to active, just use it as a visable indicator for viewing the position of the knob.
I can't put my finger on it but I think this has been done before by other companies.
Pretty cool if you ask me,😉
Knob LED
You can make the knob indicator active by drilling a very small hole and running a fiber optic from an LED inside the case. Wrap a couple of times around at the base of the knob to account for any (un)winding during use. Hole size to match fiber and cut to length.
Maybe we can finally use those Toslink cables for something...
🙂ensen.
You can make the knob indicator active by drilling a very small hole and running a fiber optic from an LED inside the case. Wrap a couple of times around at the base of the knob to account for any (un)winding during use. Hole size to match fiber and cut to length.
Maybe we can finally use those Toslink cables for something...
🙂ensen.
Re: Knob LED
I don't think there's enough room for a fiber optic, the knob has a diameter of 25mm (1") and is 20mm long (-5mm for the nut to fasten the switch). It is mounted on a 6mm diameter axle. I was thinkin' about, drilling a hole trough the switch's axle (length) and put the wires trough to feed the LED. But i don't know if that is possible.
Jerry
purplepeople said:
I don't think there's enough room for a fiber optic, the knob has a diameter of 25mm (1") and is 20mm long (-5mm for the nut to fasten the switch). It is mounted on a 6mm diameter axle. I was thinkin' about, drilling a hole trough the switch's axle (length) and put the wires trough to feed the LED. But i don't know if that is possible.
Jerry
If you drill the hole in the knob off centre far enough the fiber will miss the pot axle completely. Insert the fiber into the hole, push through to about 2mm from the front of the knob. At the back, the knob now has two holes, on with the fiber sticking out and the other for the pot axle. Drill another hole above the pot on the case, stick the fiber through it. Rotate the pot all the way to the left. Count the number of turns. Rotate the knob that many turns + 1 then put the knob on the pot. If you rotate the knob all the way to the right, the fiber will just unwind. Of course, the fewer turns in total, the better for the fiber and the less gap is needed between the knob and case, but that is a function of the pot. This will not work for an encoder. If you want the indicator to start and end at specific rotation points, then adjust the hole on the case and the number of turns of the fiber. Just make sure the fiber has more turns than the pot.
🙂ensen.
🙂ensen.
Sorry, the previous post is somewhat simplified. The hole into the case needs to take into account the lack of flex in the fiber. You may have to drill it at some angle. The same for the hole in the knob. The diameter of the fiber will play here, but in most cases, the pot will only rotate 270 deg at most. The larger diameter knobs will hide this better than small ones. You can also drill holes with a stepped diameter, larger near the gap between the case and knob.
🙂ensen.
🙂ensen.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.