The XSD Speaker

Thanks again,

I have not had a PC for many years, only laptops, used to build them back before Win 95 came out. I built a super compact very high powered PC around 8 years ago, triple fast monitors, it was for full time RVing to race tracks around the country so I could practice before I got there and took the car out. Then I realized I could not get the data rate to run it, $4,500 system, sold it off, had a custom built 17" laptop made for me instead. Then my retirement took a big hit, then another, now I just work on our RV and have some audio fun...I do still have a 400HP highly modded Fiesta ST in storage, been there for 4 or 5 years....I guess I should sell it, will lose a huge part of the $50k and 1,000 hours invested but just not into it anymore.

OK, back on topic, I will keep a look out on Ebay, Craigslist, forums, etc....I love to find a deal, always fun🙂
 
Yes, sad he passed but at least doing what he loved, riding a crazy powered snow mobile up what is basically a cliff...

My ST, as in most all my builds if very subtle, I even wanted to paint the CF hood but my wife wanted to keep it as is, she really likes carbon fiber, not a typical wife in anyway one can imagine🙂

It is the only one ever running 9" wide wheels under stock fenders, pulled a bit of course. Custom BBKs, coolers, full suspension mods, etc. I do not drag race nor street race but just one time a then new M5, 560 HP, 8spd DSG, etc...against FWD, no launch control, etc...he got me about 2 car lengths off the line, 2nd gear at his side, 3rd gear at 80 MPH jumped on the brakes, already three lengths ahead of him. I built it to have the power to weight ratio of the current Porsche Turbo as most of the owners get on a road course track day and block you on the corners and drag race down the straights....On street/track tires, no race tires, I blew away many minds at how fast it was even before the big turbo, just 225HP.

Let me see if I have any good pics I can post here. It was built to preform, 200lbs removed, still had full interior except back seat was setup for two big dogsCustom
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LSD installed, very short shifter design and built, brake ducts, all mounts from engine, trans to suspension custom filled or built, rear axle flanges cut and moved to give -2.0
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rear camber, custom coilovers, BBKS front and rear, many parts designed and built by me over an 8 month period with on 5 miles on the car. Car was designed in Germany and I had the beer can on hand and it is a good design so used it. Real ram air, coolers all moved to be as open to cool air as possible. All top race grade fluids, water/meth injection, a few more mods not shown like aluminum overflow tank, catch can, etc....
 
Skinny all season wheels and tires, horrid road noise, gave them to my daughter.
Front BBK with 15x8 flow formed 12 lb wheels with sticky all seasons, really three seasons at the most, 15x9 summer only and track tires but not finding good pics.
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The first big turbo, EFR, it was like an on off switch, rather fun but dangerous, redid manifold and went to a smaller turbo which was a mistake, found out the tuner lied to many of use, did not really know what he claimed, the bigger turbo could of been tuned far better. And I should of built my own manifold as it would of been a hybrid twin scroll, equal length and firing order sequence like the last one I built. Jasper was part pf the landscaping in the yard I installed as well, tons of jasper.
 
The car rode far better, handled far better, stopped far better, quieter, than stock and got 40MPG on the road, it only has 20k miles on it, heated Recaro seats, NAV, sunroof( Did not want NAV, came with roof, roof needed to keep our dogs cool as I usually removed sunroofs from my other cars, one got a complete CF/Kevlar roof)
 
I will be back on the roof in a bit as soon as the ice and frost clear off. I did take a few short breaks yesterday, needed a different tool, screws, etc, up and down the ladder at least 10 times, today all on the roof.

As can be seen the Fiesta ST is not slammed, big mistake to do that. So is stanced, way to much camber, skinny tires on to wide wheels, rediculous anti-performance mods just to look "cool" which anybody with half a brain can see just looks silly and very unsafe. I only lower a car to where the suspension geometry works and still have some decent ground clearance, same thing I have done since the early 70's and have beaten tons of cars that were simply setup wrong. I always offer free advice on real performance mods, most ignore them and just spend more money and I still beat them.

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Different field but still a lot like your products, do what really works, make it look nice but not flashy, reliable, a great value, kudos to you!

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I am really hoping to get the XSD to preform well in our RV, room treatments will be used as needed, etc. I spend a ton of time and a bit of money just making it 18" longer to have room for the speakers out from the back wall. (then I realized I could fit a door in as well so we can have two doors even though it makes each wall a bit different acoustically reflective I can use treatments to balance it out)

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There is a an available walnut finish XSD flatpack. That can save a lot of work and time. You will need to settle for 6.5in woofers but IMO, you don’t need 8’s with your boundary reinforcement in the RV. Then the passive XO is done and you can enjoy.

You obviously put a lot of thought in your ST. You should get it running and take it for daily driver. It’s very cool looking.
 
It’s wired just like the diagram. I think what might be confusing is that the external magnet connectors have two connections (1 for the parallel internal driver and 1 for connecting to other pair of crossover).

The negative of one pair in parallel goes to the positive of second pair in parallel in order to get a series connection.

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Whew! One speaker wired, but not yet connected to crossover. The pads and through holes on crossover board are a bit small for my 16 gauge wire. I have some little units that came with another kit I am building. They are little pins, perfect size for these holes. On the end there is a cup, for the larger diameter wire to crimp or solder to.

Anyone know what these are called? I've looked through tons of PC board solder/crimp items and continue.

Russellc
 
I have used what I think are called pin end crimp terminals. They are metal version of shoelace tips. For example here. They won’t make the wire much smaller but will reduce wire strain and allow insertion into solder holes. But you should use Faston tabs in crossover board to the drivers. I think the boards made by Bloqhead has provisions for Faston tabs?
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Flat pack is tempting but I need the funds for our remodel and I need practice before I built a ton of cabinets, shelves, etc...there are going to be more built ins than most medium size houses. I have a lot of woodworking tools, not shop tools, on sight but can handle full sheets of ply by myself with the fold out tables, have a router table, really good router, drill presses, etc......And there is a very well stocked hardwood distribitor 50 miles from us, I can pick something quite interesting which will make my wife very happy though she does love walnut.

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Thanks, Glad you like the ST🙂

I have built many cars, 510 Datsuns for 10 years, had 6 Miatas from modest street mods to all out race cars, highly modded street and a race Vette, Subaru, Scion, etc....wildest build I sold just before finished so we could go full time RVing was a 2,300lb M3 with 600HP forged LS, $$$$$$$$$ ouch!

The ST is parked because it blew a head gasket due to Fords great idea of having inferred temp gauge and no idiots likes, limp mod, etc that would come on if overheating and they sold it with a known bad head design, bastards. I bought the newer corrected engine to put in, nearly done, had to swap the flywheel and crank pulley, did not know it was pressure fit and not keyed and bent some valves, another brilliant Ford idea. I love the the car but loath Ford. So I need to buy another engine or buy around $800 in tools just to take the head off, I might be able to make some of the tools but no longer have a shop to work in. When running the car was a joy to drive, outstanding in all ways, just stupid bean counter design crap. I got so pissed I have let it sit for a few years and now so busy with the remodel I might be getting to it in 2025.

I will consider going with the 6.5.s though, does make it simpler to build and fit in our space a bit better. I went to the 8's in hope of not needing subs. Being we are in a park, not real close but closer than a house and not watching many movies we do not need 20Hz bass, just good musical bass will do.

Thanks!
Rick
 
I have been around thousands upon thousands of wire wraps and only seen one problem ever, not sure still used by the Military. I used to do another type of connection instead of butt you twist the wire a certain number of turns and solder the middle leaving a flexible joint. I buried an alarm in my old audio comp Tacoma that still works like new 25 years later. Now I use butt connectors, etc and a regular crimper and never had a problem out of hundreds if not a few thousand connections, just have to place the crimper correctly, not at the end of the metal terminal so again somewhat flexible.

The hexagonal crimper looks great, might have to look into getting one🙂