The XSD Speaker

DAMN I so much want to get busy building my 8x8" version but only have the 8" drivers so far, got to spend all my spare coins on our full time all out RV remodel while the weather and no current CA wildfires are burning. Speaking of which, I just burned my first Shou Sugi Ban siding piece today, rather easy and looks beautiful.
 
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Wondering, what would be +/- of using smaller number of larger speakers like:
GRS 10PR-8 (10"), but 4 per side instead of 8x 6,5".
Total Sd will be 30% larger. Cost wise it will be similar. As for the speaker size it still shouldn't grow much if at all.
 
The larger diameter equates to a lower upper bandwidth of the woofers due to 1/4 wave cancellation. As I recall, 6.5in is 470Hz, 8in is 350Hz, so 10in is will be about 300Hz. So you have to adjust the XO frequency. This changes the impact of mid bass punch and asks the mid driver to do more work.
 
That sounds like it upends the whole design work put into this project, no? For me this isnt exactly an inexpensive project, even DIY.
I am building as designed in order to take advantage of all the design work that went into this. Drivers selected, so their natural roll offs match the
roll off of drivers, what phase is doing at these crossover points etc.

I suppose if one wants to modify this project, the bass end would be the place to do it normally, but I didnt like the sound of X's comment about it making the mid driver work harder. That tells me it is outside the design parameters of the project? Usually means more distortion, in that carefully designed mid...not to mention the delivery difficulty we were having with it! lol.

I dont have the equipment or knowhow to design, let alone redesign something as complex as this projects crossover, others here do. That said, to what end? The existing design has the equivalent of 2 15" drivers per side as is, right?

Can not wait to get this built!

Russellc
 
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Well said Rusellc, but this is DIY and if people want to take a crack at their own crossover, that is cool. But I would suggest building the baseline design to hear what it sounds like as intended.

I just spent almost an hour in the sun on my front steps (don't want to make all that dust in the house) enlarging the woofer cutout holes by a couple mm with a Dremel tool and sanding wheel. Not too hard but exactly the reason I build a verification unit from the flatpack to catch these sorts of things.

Ready to glue the woofer array box to the baffle and base now with PL Premium polyurethane glue that will fill gaps and voids.
 
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Funny, it looks easier than your typical box speaker but it is different enough to make it more difficult. Indexing the parts is mandatory, glue just acts like a lubricant under pressure. You also will have to commit to at least 6 big clamps to assemble the bass box.
 
Progress finally. Glue applied and now waiting to set. I had an old unopened tube of PL Premium 8x. It was probably expired because very viscous and took all my strength to squeeze out of the applicator gun. OTOH, the stuff doesn’t run and fill big gaps well. It’s very humid here in DC area so this should cure easily without application of external water mist.
Let’s wait a day and see what it looks like and how strong it is.

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Woofer box and baffle/base all glued up now. Parts Express just provided a new data sheet for the GRS 6PR-8 woofer that shows the cutout needs to be 147mm dia not 5.625in (143mm) as shown in their text description of the driver.
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No wonder why the holes were tight and had to be enlarged. Sheet shows TS parameters and frequency response. This is nice and shows the broad and fairly smooth response. Since we use the slot to force the low pass falloff at 470Hz, the breakup peak near 3kHz is not an issue at all.

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/GRS Spec Sheets/292-426--grs-6pr-8-spec-sheet.pdf
 
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