Rounding corners helps diffraction not baffle step loss. Which can be avoided with a very wide baffle (5 ft wide) or mount against a wall or have two drivers in bipole arrangement.
To get down to 500Hz takes a bigger inductor and I would have to run a simulation. Probably 2.5mH. However that may have adverse effects on your HF. You should try the 1mH first with 5R or a 6.8R (get several 1R to add to taste). The slope is shallow so it may reach down low enough to be balanced.
To get down to 500Hz takes a bigger inductor and I would have to run a simulation. Probably 2.5mH. However that may have adverse effects on your HF. You should try the 1mH first with 5R or a 6.8R (get several 1R to add to taste). The slope is shallow so it may reach down low enough to be balanced.
W8-2145
I dared to build a pair of WIBAQs using TB W8-2145 drivers. I use 4 inch long port and driver placement 15 inch from the top.
The result – the bass gets really low, but there is the feel of something missing. There are very noticeable dips at around 60 Hz and 150 Hz. Overall impression – lack of details and emotion.
The drivers are well broke now. I tried to improve with BSC 1.2 mH / 2.8 Ohm, but no big effect. I haven’t played with the stuffing yet. I suppose adding more would smoothen the lows.
And now I’d like to ask for a favor – can anyone with the proper tools simulate the chosen drivers to confirm whether they are suitable for WIBAQ construction or not.
Any suggestions for improvements are welcome and highly appreciated!
I dared to build a pair of WIBAQs using TB W8-2145 drivers. I use 4 inch long port and driver placement 15 inch from the top.
The result – the bass gets really low, but there is the feel of something missing. There are very noticeable dips at around 60 Hz and 150 Hz. Overall impression – lack of details and emotion.
The drivers are well broke now. I tried to improve with BSC 1.2 mH / 2.8 Ohm, but no big effect. I haven’t played with the stuffing yet. I suppose adding more would smoothen the lows.
And now I’d like to ask for a favor – can anyone with the proper tools simulate the chosen drivers to confirm whether they are suitable for WIBAQ construction or not.
Any suggestions for improvements are welcome and highly appreciated!
There are very noticeable dips at around 60 Hz and 150 Hz. Overall impression – lack of details and emotion.
Those sound like floor bounce dip or room modes. Try moving it far from back wall, say, 5ft and see if the dips get better. Did you make the box with same dimensions per Wibaq plan?
Yes, dimensions are according to the plan. Would you recommend to make the port 6 inch long and moving the driver 9 inch from the top?
Making the port longer or moving the drivet would not help. I think xrk971 has some good points.
You could also try to remove some of the stuffing.
You could also try to remove some of the stuffing.
Hi Folks,
My Betsys are at home, very nice drivers. I will build the WIBAQ enclosures soon.
regards,
seb
My Betsys are at home, very nice drivers. I will build the WIBAQ enclosures soon.
regards,
seb
I've build the WIBAQ, there is no bass. As shy as in OB.
I think it's a waste of time and money
But the Betsys K sound really good. I'm looking for another enclosure.
regards,
seb
I think it's a waste of time and money
But the Betsys K sound really good. I'm looking for another enclosure.
regards,
seb
I've build the WIBAQ, there is no bass. As shy as in OB.
I think it's a waste of time and money
But the Betsys K sound really good. I'm looking for another enclosure.
regards,
seb
Something's wrong if bass is bad like an OB. You probably have way too much stuffing. Try removing most of the stuffing and leave a very light amount from top to 2in above driver. Loosely stuffed and see how that sounds.
Hi xrk,
I did not put stuffing at all. I'll will check tomorrow if my enclosure is leaking, I just sticked with the WIBAQ plan.
Maybe put some wood to stiff the enclosure, it's only 15mm plywood
thanks for your answer,
seb
I did not put stuffing at all. I'll will check tomorrow if my enclosure is leaking, I just sticked with the WIBAQ plan.
Maybe put some wood to stiff the enclosure, it's only 15mm plywood
thanks for your answer,
seb
Ok the enclosure rumble a lot, so I think a lot of the bass energy is lost. I try with +6dB from 0 to 500Hz with a soft slope and the WIBAQ do sing very low!
This week I'll stiff the enclosure up.
I'll post you the results ASAP.
sorry for my poor English i'm french
regards,
seb
This week I'll stiff the enclosure up.
I'll post you the results ASAP.
sorry for my poor English i'm french
regards,
seb
Nice work.
Although passive baffle step is tricky due to driver'side increasing impedance.
I look forward to your impressions and measurements.
Although passive baffle step is tricky due to driver'side increasing impedance.
I look forward to your impressions and measurements.
I will build it soon. At this moment I use Foobar EQ, +6dB from 0 to 400Hz, slow slope, -6dB @3.5KHz, -4dB@10KHz. It sounds great. No harschness no "sssss" nice voices. I can listen for hours with no pain.
If impedance rises too much I will do something Zobel style. BSC could be tricky but the frequency of the 2 notches is not speaker dependant.
regards,
seb
If impedance rises too much I will do something Zobel style. BSC could be tricky but the frequency of the 2 notches is not speaker dependant.
regards,
seb
great job !!!!!!!!!!!!
The longer I'm at this, the more I believe most full range drivers need a 10 band eq.
Nothing wrong with that, I just can't grasp that drivers past $200 need it too.
Baffle step, well, everything needs that, especially with our lower volumes we listen at.
Without baffle step and that pretty big peak near 3.5khz, I can see how betsyK could be hard on the ears.
I'm surprised you don't need more attenuation at 3.5khz.
I like a dip 1-4khz.
How far away are you sitting from the speaker ?
You may want to mention your project here over on the wildburro forum.
It's been quiet there for a while.
Norman
The longer I'm at this, the more I believe most full range drivers need a 10 band eq.
Nothing wrong with that, I just can't grasp that drivers past $200 need it too.
Baffle step, well, everything needs that, especially with our lower volumes we listen at.
Without baffle step and that pretty big peak near 3.5khz, I can see how betsyK could be hard on the ears.
I'm surprised you don't need more attenuation at 3.5khz.
I like a dip 1-4khz.
How far away are you sitting from the speaker ?
You may want to mention your project here over on the wildburro forum.
It's been quiet there for a while.
Norman
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Hi Norman,
I listen the Betsy's close range, 3.3 feet. I don't toe them in too much. Now i only tame the beast -4dB@3.5Khz, -1.5@10Khz. I use "graphic equalizer", a plug in with FOOBAR
Here is the file of my EQ. Feel free to try another values.
I will do the EQ with RLC later, and also a solid wood WIBAQ enclosure for the Betsys.
Before the Betsys I owned the Davis Stentaure LE, nice french speakers. I have listen a bunch of systems at "audiophiles" home. WIBAQ + EQ is just way ahead a lot of expensive "hiend" speakers.
regards,
seb
I listen the Betsy's close range, 3.3 feet. I don't toe them in too much. Now i only tame the beast -4dB@3.5Khz, -1.5@10Khz. I use "graphic equalizer", a plug in with FOOBAR
Here is the file of my EQ. Feel free to try another values.
I will do the EQ with RLC later, and also a solid wood WIBAQ enclosure for the Betsys.
Before the Betsys I owned the Davis Stentaure LE, nice french speakers. I have listen a bunch of systems at "audiophiles" home. WIBAQ + EQ is just way ahead a lot of expensive "hiend" speakers.
regards,
seb
here is the picture of the increasing impedance of a betsyK from
https://www.minidsp.com/forum/diy-hifi-projects/7980-re-measurement-results
they seem to be around 10ohms at 2,100 and 18ohms near 8khz.

https://www.minidsp.com/forum/diy-hifi-projects/7980-re-measurement-results
they seem to be around 10ohms at 2,100 and 18ohms near 8khz.

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