Brilliant, TNT! A technical perfect solution, in a way. To stop the vibrations from being created by using the two elements back to back simply IS the most elegant way to do it, and combining it with the stiffest of cabinet forms, not demanding thick walls etc, and also the use of inexpensive stuff from IKEA for construction... it is just so....bloody marvellous!
(if used purely as a subwoofer I suppose you could improve the deep bass performance with another pair of drive units mounted on the outside, “face to face” to the two units you already have. You would get a doubled total membrane weight (hence extended frequency range downwards) and double motor power to keep up the efficiency. But the good looks would be gone, needless to say…)
(if used purely as a subwoofer I suppose you could improve the deep bass performance with another pair of drive units mounted on the outside, “face to face” to the two units you already have. You would get a doubled total membrane weight (hence extended frequency range downwards) and double motor power to keep up the efficiency. But the good looks would be gone, needless to say…)
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It seem to work suprinsingly well - the sphere is just over 1 mm thick and i was a bit worried it would turn into bell, but no - it's dead silent. It makes a sound when knocking on it but it does not ring at all. I have painted NoiseKiller on the inside walls and that maybe have helped a bit also. No damping inside whatsoever.
The cone thing locks really avantgardistic - but as You say, the spehere has some advantages. The design was inspired by B&W PV1 but I thougth they are way to expensive. I drive these (Ihave 2 soon) with icePower 500W and equalize them with Behringer Ultracurve 2496.
All the best /
The cone thing locks really avantgardistic - but as You say, the spehere has some advantages. The design was inspired by B&W PV1 but I thougth they are way to expensive. I drive these (Ihave 2 soon) with icePower 500W and equalize them with Behringer Ultracurve 2496.
All the best /
forr said:A low frequencies, mouting two units on opposite sides of an enclosure may be very beneficial to get a stable origin of the sound without necessarily having a perfectly rigid coupling to the floor.
An elegant approach....
dave
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now both are completed. I have not played the new one but I have no doubt that these will give me all the dry, deep bass I always wanted. Maybe the will not make you puke but the levels will be more than enough in an apartment.
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Hi TNT
Very cool and futuristic looking. Reminds me of the "Intoxication Orb" in Woody Allen's film "Sleeper".
Thanks for sharing!
Very cool and futuristic looking. Reminds me of the "Intoxication Orb" in Woody Allen's film "Sleeper".
Thanks for sharing!
Just to clarify that this is not how I will place them - it's just for the foto. the will go inte the front corners.
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TNT said:An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now both are completed. I have not played the new one but I have no doubt that these will give me all the dry, deep bass I always wanted. Maybe the will not make you puke but the levels will be more than enough in an apartment.
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A dipole subwoofer line array with mass cancellation from mirrored drivers is very good for charging a room and reducing room resonant modes. The Martin Logan Statement 2 used a multi-box line array of dipole subwoofers, each box using mirrored 2-driver mass cancellation. This seems like a good solution to getting deep bass below the room resonant frequency.
My current speakers are 3-way with the woofers in a completely physically isolated cabinet that can be angled sightly toward the outside wall to reduce high air pressures from wacking the delicate low mass midrange and tweeter. I use a four 15" woofers line array up against the wall to get deep bass with low distortion. I don't care how much these 16-80Hz monopole woofers rock and roll their isolated cabinet.
My current speakers are 3-way with the woofers in a completely physically isolated cabinet that can be angled sightly toward the outside wall to reduce high air pressures from wacking the delicate low mass midrange and tweeter. I use a four 15" woofers line array up against the wall to get deep bass with low distortion. I don't care how much these 16-80Hz monopole woofers rock and roll their isolated cabinet.
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TNT said:Maybe the will not make you puke but the levels will be more than enough in an apartment.
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Apartment?! Enough to make your neighbours puke though. BTW, thanks for the steel bowl tip, my Jordans may have finally found a home. :worship:
OOPS... my spell-check turned bipole into dipole. The Matin Logan Statement 2 has a BIPOLE bass line array. BIPOLE radiation is a good solution for deep bass below the room resonance.
A bipole subwoofer line array with mass cancellation from mirrored drivers is very good for charging a room and reducing room resonant modes. The Martin Logan Statement 2 used a multi-box line array of bipole subwoofers, each box using mirrored 2-driver mass cancellation. This seems like a good solution to getting deep bass below the room resonant frequency.
My current speakers are 3-way with the woofers in a completely physically isolated cabinet that can be angled sightly toward the outside wall to reduce high air pressures from wacking the delicate low mass midrange and tweeter. I use a four 15" woofers line array up against the wall to get deep bass with low distortion. I don't care how much these 16-80Hz monopole woofers rock and roll their isolated cabinet.
A bipole subwoofer line array with mass cancellation from mirrored drivers is very good for charging a room and reducing room resonant modes. The Martin Logan Statement 2 used a multi-box line array of bipole subwoofers, each box using mirrored 2-driver mass cancellation. This seems like a good solution to getting deep bass below the room resonant frequency.
My current speakers are 3-way with the woofers in a completely physically isolated cabinet that can be angled sightly toward the outside wall to reduce high air pressures from wacking the delicate low mass midrange and tweeter. I use a four 15" woofers line array up against the wall to get deep bass with low distortion. I don't care how much these 16-80Hz monopole woofers rock and roll their isolated cabinet.
OK - rented flat? Is that what you call it "over there" ;-)
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rdf said:
Apartment?! Enough to make your neighbours puke though. BTW, thanks for the steel bowl tip, my Jordans may have finally found a home.![]()
You used the Diameter: 36cm (14") bowls, yeah?
How did you cut the holes for the driver? Did you use a jigsaw?
Thanks for the link to the bowls at Ikea. 🙂
How did you cut the holes for the driver? Did you use a jigsaw?
Thanks for the link to the bowls at Ikea. 🙂
Yes - it's the 36cm bowls. I used this to cut the holes: sticksåg
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panomaniac said:You used the Diameter: 36cm (14") bowls, yeah?
How did you cut the holes for the driver? Did you use a jigsaw?
Thanks for the link to the bowls at Ikea. 🙂
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sletol said:mounting the drive unit elastically on the baffle through rubber pieces and rubber rings/gaskets.
I remeber back when KEF 1st strated doing this. We found that cranking down on the screws to short-circuit the elastic mounting improved the speaker. Since then i have been ridgedly mounting the driver to the box -- and most often supporting/bracing the back of the driver to the back of the box (or closest panel). Better yet is to brace the driver to another driver moving in the opposite direction and actively cancelling most of the drivers motional energy (ie push-push)
dave
TNT said:An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TNT... very clever, elegant, and a wonderful example of the beauty of push-push.
Is this the container (closest thing i could find on the canadian IKEA site)
http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stor...15&categoryId=15970&chosenPartNumber=00055436

dave
edit... guess i should have read thru the whole thread 1st... here they are on the Canadian site
http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stor...15&categoryId=15809&chosenPartNumber=00057256

Hi Dave, I was at the Richmond Ikea on the weekend and they had piles of TNT's bowls in stock. I haven't jumped in because the walls seemed thin for a full range driver. I need to find another bowl a 1/2" smaller in diameter to slip inside and go dual-wall.
sletol said:(if used purely as a subwoofer I suppose you could improve the deep bass performance with another pair of drive units mounted on the outside, “face to face” to the two units you already have. You would get a doubled total membrane weight (hence extended frequency range downwards) and double motor power to keep up the efficiency. But the good looks would be gone, needless to say…)
Nice illustrations... there has been some discussion of this already -- the push-push, push-pull, isobarik woofer. One of these days i'll acually get around to building one (i certainly have enuff 12s to build a pair)
There is a certain appeal to putting 4 drivers into the volume you would use for just 1.
dave
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