You might not, but there are many, many here who always do. It's absolutely astonishing that you think otherwise.However, the question, "What do you want your sub to do?" is rarely asked.
Oh, good grief, what a load of bollocks.Home Theatre subs are generally 'minimum wage'; offer maximum: grunt, growl, rumble, or boom when asked and they'll earn their keep. Even and rock and classical fans don't require too much finesse and precision in the lower frequencies. One note often blends into another.
Ever heard of John Entwhistle? He carried the melody for most of the Who's work for over 40y and he's only the OTTOMH example.These genres differ to many others because the bass is the lead, it's where the tune is.
Such stunning ignorance. When you can play better then Tony Levin, Pino Palladino, Paul McCartney, Geddy Lee, Stanley Clarke, Victor Wootten, Les Claypool, Lee Sklar (the most recorded bassist in history), Jaco Pastorious, Roger Waters, John Pattatucci, Bootsey Collins, James Jamerson, Verdine White, Larry Graham, Anthony Jackson, Oteil Burbidge, Doug Wimbish, Jimmy Johnson, Bobby Vega, Stu Hamm, Mark King, Ron Carter, Dee Murray, Sting, Lemmy Kilmister, Meshel Negdeocello, Tony Grey, Geoff Berlin, Billy Sheehan and Chuck Rainy come back and see us. Better still, recreate many of their performances with them just being sloppy and missing notes and tell me it sounds as good. Bring evidenceIn rock music the bass player is the butt of so many jokes because he's the talentless afterthought in the band - who cares if he misses a few notes?
He's OK, and good for slapping that well on a RH bass played LH with inverted stringing. Slapping isn't all that impressive to most bassists but if that sort of thing floats your boat, check out Charles Berthoud..You should WATCH this guy while LISTENING - he's really good!!
This shows you don't understand the subject. On a 4st bass the fundamental is typically well below the 2H from E1 to A1 as the standard 34" scale isn't long enough to support the fundamental. As most subs are below 80Hz only, there's actually very little a bass is contributing within it's range, so all you're talking about is the province of the midbass driver, not the sub.The first video shows a bass player. The question being does your sub clearly respond to everything his fingers are doing.
If one is a competent designer, there is no distinction other than cost. My "music" sub, I originally had two but down sizing means one, is a critical Q sealed, Peerless XLSS paper carbon. It darn near matches roll-off to room gain. I have no EQ on my sub. Don't need it. My HT I run a pair of 10's,
In most cheap and boomy commercial offerings: Kind of.That puts the lowest octave of a ported enclosure in antiphase from the upper octaves, which is why the impulse response gets mashed - the lowest frequencies arrive so late through the port that they are inverted.
In most cheap and boomy commercial offerings: Kind of.
You get a phase wrap from poor vented design, but you'll also see a somewhat compareable phase wrap if you use IIR or other analog EQ and filters to make the same response on a lower Q box of any type.
Use only a HP to protect the sub down low, and you get a phase disturbance.
If you use FIR then expect some serious delay in the signal chain... This being a subwoofer thread,
The box resonance limits membrane movement because of high resistance at a specific frequency, but in addition to the design it also depends where the port is placed if you'd actually get a phase wrap in relation to above port resonance because of it.
Here's the previous sim with the double 15" vented (black) vs sealed (gray), equal power (28,3v/two drivers), equal box volume (223 liters).
I use offset 2nd order Bessel around 200hz to almost-phase align.
No highpass unless I use them outdoors, 5,5mm xmax.
Was important to me to have resonance at the lowest point of most of my music collection, so I would not need a highpass filter.
Here's one more, if I adjust the response to be somewhat compareable with a Q 0,5 +5db 30hz boost and a 2nd order hp to protect the driver , I run out of xmax with only 35 watts, do note the somewhat similar phase and group delay with only these modest adjustments.
That's 107db/32W vs 115db/136W, quite the difference IMO.
Whatever are you talking about? It's not that different to what you're posting, only you have much more phase variance in your ported designs, other than that the only difference being wrapped vs unwrapped phase between our sims.You seem to have a similarly huge phase shift on the sealed version though, which is not necessary - it is possible to build sealed boxes with better response than that. I think it might be because you used the same box volume for both sealed and ported versions, whereas (for a given driver) each configuration needs a different volume for optimum behaviour.
Whatever are you talking about? It's not that different to what you're posting, only you have much more phase variance in your ported designs, other than that the only difference being wrapped vs unwrapped phase between our sims.
Bottom line: It does not matter for low SPL, no difference in SQ. As long as you take proper steps towards adapting the filter to the tops.
I think we are talking at cross-purposes but saying somewhat the same thing. If you are comparing two box configurations with the same driver, you are correct, sealed is not some magic bullet that comes with a free lunch. But I am trying to say that with a larger and more expensive driver (there's that choice of a poison), you can get the same levels down low with better transient response. I don't think "you can build something better by spending more" should be contentious.