Hi everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
Hey there more10, I happen to have roughly 10-16 of these 2226H drivers laying around that I want to incorporate into this design of yours! I downloaded all the files and I've been looking at them in Fusion 360. I have access to a CNC machine and a woodworker as well! I'm actually really excited to see how these sound!
-Seeing as you have actually built at least one of these cabs, are there any tips or things I should know before going into this?
-Is there a voltage limit I should be looking to keep the drivers under, or can I still feed it maximum rated power?
-I've seen your graph showing 4 cabs coupled have extension down to ~25Hz at 130+dB, but I have a hard time seeing if it is actually 25Hz or maybe 30Hz.
I know this is an older thread, but I think this enclosure seems so simple and elegant for a bunch of drivers I already own and want to make better boxes for!
So, thanks for sharing these ideas and I hope to hear from you!
-Seeing as you have actually built at least one of these cabs, are there any tips or things I should know before going into this?
-Is there a voltage limit I should be looking to keep the drivers under, or can I still feed it maximum rated power?
-I've seen your graph showing 4 cabs coupled have extension down to ~25Hz at 130+dB, but I have a hard time seeing if it is actually 25Hz or maybe 30Hz.
I know this is an older thread, but I think this enclosure seems so simple and elegant for a bunch of drivers I already own and want to make better boxes for!
So, thanks for sharing these ideas and I hope to hear from you!
You will reach max excursion (for one frequency) at 45V according to Hornresp. For one cab. Multiple cabs cannot easily be simulated, but I believe it will help. You will need a low pass filter to protect the drivers.
When you listen to the built speakers at first you will be a bit dissapointed. This is because we are so used to the distorted bass sound of BR. Just use them for a while and your brain will be trained on the non distorted sound of these.
When you listen to the built speakers at first you will be a bit dissapointed. This is because we are so used to the distorted bass sound of BR. Just use them for a while and your brain will be trained on the non distorted sound of these.
I currently have 2 other horn loaded subs, so I get what you mean about the difference in sound!
Thanks for letting me know about the voltage, what frequency would you suggest I low pass at? 25Hz, 28Hz? If I couple their horns together and pair them in a group of say, 8, that should lower my extension, correct?
Is there a specific thickness I should use for the wood of the enclosure? Is 18mm ply what you used? Thanks again!
Thanks for letting me know about the voltage, what frequency would you suggest I low pass at? 25Hz, 28Hz? If I couple their horns together and pair them in a group of say, 8, that should lower my extension, correct?
Is there a specific thickness I should use for the wood of the enclosure? Is 18mm ply what you used? Thanks again!
If you limit the output to 20 V you are safe. Otherwise put a filter at 30 Hz. Unfortunately I cannot get the Hornresp filter wizard to work.
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
Did you build something? JBL is known for liking some power.Hi everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
I'm in the US, but my boss is from Canada and he insists on using millimeters for all our construction on the CNC 😂 We have a supplier for our usual Baltic Birch, but if I can achieve the same results with cheaper wood, I may just consider it!If you limit the output to 20 V you are safe. Otherwise put a filter at 30 Hz. Unfortunately I cannot get the Hornresp filter wizard to work.
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
Thanks for being so responsive! I'm looking to build these to (hopefully) be able to compete with F1 and Hennessey sound systems, but on a budget!
Get 16 mm birch and call it 5/8" when the boss is around.
I think I may have confused you/myself with how I originally asked this question. I mainly meant, I can lower my Frequency extension with more horns coupled together to effectively create a larger mouth area.If you limit the output to 20 V you are safe. Otherwise put a filter at 30 Hz. Unfortunately I cannot get the Hornresp filter wizard to work.
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
So I guess my question truly is: what voltage should I limit the drivers to with a 28Hz LR24 filter applied to prevent damage?
How about for a 25Hz filter?
Or is 30Hz as low as you'd go to avoid damage?
I plan on making at least 8 of these cabs, and I'm just planning ahead on what amount of power I'll need for my amps!
Also, je t'aime tout les measurments en milimetres!
Unfortunately I cannot answer your question because I cannot simulate filters in Hornresp. These limits are worst case. In order to hit the limit you will need to hit one frequency with maximum power. I would go for 45 V output and then sweep the actual horns and listen/measure distorsion. You will need to put a filter well above 25 Hz in order to affect the resonance at 25 Hz. Go for a 48 db/octave electronic filter, or a 24 dB if you cannot find one.
Input parameters limiting extension for 50 Hz
8 paralell output
Displacement
The peak is at ~24 Hz.
Input parameters limiting the peak at 25 Hz
Output for 20 V
Displacement:
Input parameters limiting extension for 50 Hz
8 paralell output
Displacement
The peak is at ~24 Hz.
Input parameters limiting the peak at 25 Hz
Output for 20 V
Displacement:
There should be a hornresp record in the zip file. Use it for your own simulations. Maybe you can get the filter thing working.
Thank you so much for all this help! I'm brand new to Hornresp, but I'm beginning to learn what it all means! I'm planning on working through a couple simulations over the next few days to wrap my head around it! 🫨
I will be using a DBX driverack pa+ or similar to do the limiting and crossover work for the finished horns.
To set my limiter properly in the past, I've measured the output voltage from my amplifier at full output with a multimeter in AC voltage mode. I then run a 60Hz tone from my mixer at unity (or whatever even gets me in the ballpark of my target output voltage) through the DBX and then use the brickwall limiter to bring the voltage to where I need it to be.
I will be using a DBX driverack pa+ or similar to do the limiting and crossover work for the finished horns.
To set my limiter properly in the past, I've measured the output voltage from my amplifier at full output with a multimeter in AC voltage mode. I then run a 60Hz tone from my mixer at unity (or whatever even gets me in the ballpark of my target output voltage) through the DBX and then use the brickwall limiter to bring the voltage to where I need it to be.
Get a proper interface and a microphone. You will be able to measure distortion.
What is your application?
What is your application?
I have multiple different interfaces as well as a few measurement mics I've collected over the years. I use REW for some information, but I don't have any proper speaker measurement software at the moment.
I am a sound engineer by trade, but I also do work with staging, lighting, video, and the likes as I am a full-time employee of an A/V production company based in Colorado. I've been working in the industry for about 15 years now (half my life lol) and I built my first set of folded horn subs (Bill Fitzmaurice Tuba 30s) back in 2012.
My main interest for building these cabinets now is to be able to build a much more efficient cab for the drivers I already have that currently live in 4 dual-driver bass-reflex cabinets that are nowhere near big enough for these 2226Hs to be properly loaded. (I can currently feed them only 1500w a cabinet before they start to distort, half their "rated" power)
The other reason I want to build these cabs is to be able to use them with bass heavy EDM music shows. I set up my two folded horns in our shop the other day for a "DJ night" and it was so much fun to hear the prodigious amount of low-end coming from the setup.
I'll see if I can attach a screenshot from my phone. I took measurements with a calibrated measurement mic for my phone and used an FFT spl meter to record these graphs.
I am a sound engineer by trade, but I also do work with staging, lighting, video, and the likes as I am a full-time employee of an A/V production company based in Colorado. I've been working in the industry for about 15 years now (half my life lol) and I built my first set of folded horn subs (Bill Fitzmaurice Tuba 30s) back in 2012.
My main interest for building these cabinets now is to be able to build a much more efficient cab for the drivers I already have that currently live in 4 dual-driver bass-reflex cabinets that are nowhere near big enough for these 2226Hs to be properly loaded. (I can currently feed them only 1500w a cabinet before they start to distort, half their "rated" power)
The other reason I want to build these cabs is to be able to use them with bass heavy EDM music shows. I set up my two folded horns in our shop the other day for a "DJ night" and it was so much fun to hear the prodigious amount of low-end coming from the setup.
I'll see if I can attach a screenshot from my phone. I took measurements with a calibrated measurement mic for my phone and used an FFT spl meter to record these graphs.
Attachments
14ft long parabolic TH.
4" x 15.5" throat.
24" x 15.5" mouth.
4" x 15.5" throat.
24" x 15.5" mouth.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- The return of the JBL 2226H parabolic horn