Hi everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
Hey there more10, I happen to have roughly 10-16 of these 2226H drivers laying around that I want to incorporate into this design of yours! I downloaded all the files and I've been looking at them in Fusion 360. I have access to a CNC machine and a woodworker as well! I'm actually really excited to see how these sound!
-Seeing as you have actually built at least one of these cabs, are there any tips or things I should know before going into this?
-Is there a voltage limit I should be looking to keep the drivers under, or can I still feed it maximum rated power?
-I've seen your graph showing 4 cabs coupled have extension down to ~25Hz at 130+dB, but I have a hard time seeing if it is actually 25Hz or maybe 30Hz.
I know this is an older thread, but I think this enclosure seems so simple and elegant for a bunch of drivers I already own and want to make better boxes for!
So, thanks for sharing these ideas and I hope to hear from you!
-Seeing as you have actually built at least one of these cabs, are there any tips or things I should know before going into this?
-Is there a voltage limit I should be looking to keep the drivers under, or can I still feed it maximum rated power?
-I've seen your graph showing 4 cabs coupled have extension down to ~25Hz at 130+dB, but I have a hard time seeing if it is actually 25Hz or maybe 30Hz.
I know this is an older thread, but I think this enclosure seems so simple and elegant for a bunch of drivers I already own and want to make better boxes for!
So, thanks for sharing these ideas and I hope to hear from you!
You will reach max excursion (for one frequency) at 45V according to Hornresp. For one cab. Multiple cabs cannot easily be simulated, but I believe it will help. You will need a low pass filter to protect the drivers.
When you listen to the built speakers at first you will be a bit dissapointed. This is because we are so used to the distorted bass sound of BR. Just use them for a while and your brain will be trained on the non distorted sound of these.
When you listen to the built speakers at first you will be a bit dissapointed. This is because we are so used to the distorted bass sound of BR. Just use them for a while and your brain will be trained on the non distorted sound of these.
I currently have 2 other horn loaded subs, so I get what you mean about the difference in sound!
Thanks for letting me know about the voltage, what frequency would you suggest I low pass at? 25Hz, 28Hz? If I couple their horns together and pair them in a group of say, 8, that should lower my extension, correct?
Is there a specific thickness I should use for the wood of the enclosure? Is 18mm ply what you used? Thanks again!
Thanks for letting me know about the voltage, what frequency would you suggest I low pass at? 25Hz, 28Hz? If I couple their horns together and pair them in a group of say, 8, that should lower my extension, correct?
Is there a specific thickness I should use for the wood of the enclosure? Is 18mm ply what you used? Thanks again!
If you limit the output to 20 V you are safe. Otherwise put a filter at 30 Hz. Unfortunately I cannot get the Hornresp filter wizard to work.
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
Did you build something? JBL is known for liking some power.Hi everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and i plan to build a 30 Hz horn with 2226J and drive it with a tube amp that i also planning to build. Live cabinets built right is MY way to go. After i heard the Ocellia Kedros Silver in 2003 i was absolutely stunned. 2 watt of tube amp and it really define what's possible if you are truly up for the match.
I'm in the US, but my boss is from Canada and he insists on using millimeters for all our construction on the CNC 😂 We have a supplier for our usual Baltic Birch, but if I can achieve the same results with cheaper wood, I may just consider it!If you limit the output to 20 V you are safe. Otherwise put a filter at 30 Hz. Unfortunately I cannot get the Hornresp filter wizard to work.
With 20 V output you will reach 130 dB with 8 horns in paralell.
With 45 V output you will reach 140 dBwith 8 horns in paralell.
18 mm plywood is fine. I don't remember if I built my horn in 16 or 18 mm plywood, I can check next week. I built my horn wilt construction plywood, not birch.
You are in Europe? Otherwise I would have suggested 3/4" 😎
Thanks for being so responsive! I'm looking to build these to (hopefully) be able to compete with F1 and Hennessey sound systems, but on a budget!
Get 16 mm birch and call it 5/8" when the boss is around.
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