No change.
Here is what I did tonight:
- Removed both black phono board ground wires from black ground terminal and also separated them from each other (floated)
- Removed TT ground from isolated black ground terminal (floated)
- Removed AC power to the TT
- Removed AC filter board and input circuitry from the back right of chassis
- Hardwired AC directly to the 2 power supplies in front of the chassis. IEC is fed there to the front instead of the back right.
- Re-dressed all cables to ensure they are separated away from AC sources
There was no change at all from these steps. One channel slightly more hum than the other, but not much. Basically gain is fairly high, to the point where hiss is starting to be evident when the hum starts.
When I remove the input cables from the preamp or remove the headshell all is quiet, which I suppose makes sense. This old Empire tonearm cable and arm wiring does not have any shielding or a separate ground on it. The ground wire from the TT is tied to the plinth/chassis itself, a few inches from the arm base. I have a new TT and tonearm on the way so will replace that very soon.
I guess it's time to separate the power supplies from the phono boards, recheck soldering, and see what happens. It's just a pain because they're both hardwired.
The strange thing is I actually built up a PhonoClone3 without a case and I have a stock Jolida JD9 and neither of them hums with the same TT/arm.
I don't really have any particular advice here, as it seems like the problem is system dependent, however, this is what I observed today in my setup:
I've just built a preamp for a customer and was testing it before shipment. The unit was built exactly as pictured ion a first page of this thread. Chassis is grounded through the earth pin on a power entry module, RCA jacks are isolated from a chassis. I'm using Shelter 901 mounted on SME V tonearm.
There was initially low level hum at maximum volume level on a TVC based preamp. After ground wire from TT was connected to the chassis or one of the RCAs, the hum disappears.
Attachments
Thanks Peter. I hope to get back to this problem this weekend. I tried to follow my usual common sense grounding rituals but there still seems to be a little special magic to get it all worked out sometimes. I have a whole new TT/tonearm setup now. It has a slate plinth so there isn't even a metal chassis to ground to other than the tonearm base and the bearing. I'll experiment a bit and see what happens. Hopefully it follows some logic this time ;-)I don't really have any particular advice here, as it seems like the problem is system dependent, however, this is what I observed today in my setup:
I've just built a preamp for a customer and was testing it before shipment. The unit was built exactly as pictured ion a first page of this thread. Chassis is grounded through the earth pin on a power entry module, RCA jacks are isolated from a chassis. I'm using Shelter 901 mounted on SME V tonearm.
There was initially low level hum at maximum volume level on a TVC based preamp. After ground wire from TT was connected to the chassis or one of the RCAs, the hum disappears.
Tom
When I brought my phono stage to a frieds place, they hummed a bit. Making a better groung connection than an alligator clip solved the problem.
I switched to the new TT and arm, and to a Zu Denon 103 instead of the 103R which has a lower resistance. Hum is significantly less now, even just using a nest of clipleads to experiment with. Hopefully I can get past it now. Thanks for help.
Tom
Tom
Hi Peter. Nice job. When thé LM3875 Will be finished, I think I Will Troy your phono stage. One question: did you think about using an RLC RIAA corrector instead of the R and C network?
Eric
Eric
did you think about using an RLC RIAA corrector instead of the R and C network?
If something works good, I prefer not to touch it 😉
I can imagine you don't want to change something that works really fine. But just for fun, if you had thé opportunity to try a LCR RIAA corrector, would you just put it in place of your RC network?
I don't think its possible as the circuit uses pretty clever RC network that does work differently than the standard RC filtering and can't be replaced directly by LCR type.
Peter, sent a couple of emails regarding availability of the PhonoStage, one via the email portal on this sitet, and one via the Audiosector website, but have recieved no reply. My email is a gmail account, perhaps it is being filtered at your end?
Regards
Martin
Regards
Martin
Peter have you noticed any vibration on the 229D24?
I have mounted it without a pcb straight on an aluminum case and it vibrates like crazy...
I have mounted it without a pcb straight on an aluminum case and it vibrates like crazy...
Hi Peter
My phono is not working well. As soon as I inset teh opamps in the phono part the voltage on the supply drops and becomes asymitrical
How could I test the power section for correct operation?
My phono is not working well. As soon as I inset teh opamps in the phono part the voltage on the supply drops and becomes asymitrical
How could I test the power section for correct operation?
Your op amp is most likely damaged. Disconnect PS from the phono board and measure voltage on pads marked V+/V-/ GND
Yes, those transformers tend to vibrate a bit, especially on European voltage. Sometimes DC offset from the mains make them vibrate even more.
Peter have you noticed any vibration on the 229D24?
I have mounted it without a pcb straight on an aluminum case and it vibrates like crazy...
Yes, those transformers tend to vibrate a bit, especially on European voltage. Sometimes DC offset from the mains make them vibrate even more.
Hi,
About 2 months ago I bought a phono kit from Peter. He put together the phono section for me with Reference V-Caps and nude Vishays. Here is what I got:
I built a nice little casing for the phono of 5 mm thick brass and installed the phonos inside with hot glue:
Then I built the power supplies in dual mono config:
and built a not so beautiful casing from aluminum 🙂
The umbilical is made of UTP CAT 7 cable from Audioquest, which is a pretty good cable also for interconnects and dirt cheap for the quality 🙂 The phono RCAs are WBT silver, while the power supply connections are small and very high quality German pieces used originally for medical instrumentation.
Here is the phono before I installed it directly at the tonearm base:
and after installation:
The tonearm cable (Audio Note silver) is soldered directly to the input wires of the phono.
Tomorrow I will post my impressions on the sound.
Szabolcs
About 2 months ago I bought a phono kit from Peter. He put together the phono section for me with Reference V-Caps and nude Vishays. Here is what I got:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I built a nice little casing for the phono of 5 mm thick brass and installed the phonos inside with hot glue:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then I built the power supplies in dual mono config:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and built a not so beautiful casing from aluminum 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The umbilical is made of UTP CAT 7 cable from Audioquest, which is a pretty good cable also for interconnects and dirt cheap for the quality 🙂 The phono RCAs are WBT silver, while the power supply connections are small and very high quality German pieces used originally for medical instrumentation.
Here is the phono before I installed it directly at the tonearm base:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and after installation:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The tonearm cable (Audio Note silver) is soldered directly to the input wires of the phono.
Tomorrow I will post my impressions on the sound.
Szabolcs
Nice and tidy 🙂
A small suggestion. I would put some heatshrink on those bear joints on the tonearm.
A small suggestion. I would put some heatshrink on those bear joints on the tonearm.
Hi,
As promised yesterday, here are my thoughts about the sound quality of Peter's phono stage.
In short: it is amazing. The most neutral and transparent phono I have ever heard. Although it is difficult for me to compare it with the original Phono Cube (I heard it last time in a 250 000 USD system 🙂 ), I dare to say that the phono stage with the parts I obtained is better than the original one.
The sound is very neutral, fast and trasparent. I mostly listen to acoustic/instrumental music, most often jazz, classical, blues, folk etc. The instruments and human voices are there in well defined points in space. It may sound hard if you are used to tube gear but I believe live music is really hard. There is no softness in a real drum or saxophone or violine. Very small differences in different recordings can be heard. Also, the acoustics of live recordings is amazing.
I now have about 50 record sides listening time. The sound was very good at the beginning but it seems to get a bit better as time goes on. But it might be something psychological 🙂
There is one thing only to be considered: this phono is so revealing that you will want a better cartridge or tonearm or turntable ... 🙂
I have to add something. I had been using 3 different versions of the Phonoclone circuit for many years. Comparing the price I would say that the price/value ratio is very good in that case. I had a self built version of that and I have to say that there is a definite positive difference for Peter's phono in terms of transparency, neutrality and lowest bass and highest trebles. However, you have to pay the price difference.
Thanks very much Peter for the excellent kit,
Szabolcs
As promised yesterday, here are my thoughts about the sound quality of Peter's phono stage.
In short: it is amazing. The most neutral and transparent phono I have ever heard. Although it is difficult for me to compare it with the original Phono Cube (I heard it last time in a 250 000 USD system 🙂 ), I dare to say that the phono stage with the parts I obtained is better than the original one.
The sound is very neutral, fast and trasparent. I mostly listen to acoustic/instrumental music, most often jazz, classical, blues, folk etc. The instruments and human voices are there in well defined points in space. It may sound hard if you are used to tube gear but I believe live music is really hard. There is no softness in a real drum or saxophone or violine. Very small differences in different recordings can be heard. Also, the acoustics of live recordings is amazing.
I now have about 50 record sides listening time. The sound was very good at the beginning but it seems to get a bit better as time goes on. But it might be something psychological 🙂
There is one thing only to be considered: this phono is so revealing that you will want a better cartridge or tonearm or turntable ... 🙂
I have to add something. I had been using 3 different versions of the Phonoclone circuit for many years. Comparing the price I would say that the price/value ratio is very good in that case. I had a self built version of that and I have to say that there is a definite positive difference for Peter's phono in terms of transparency, neutrality and lowest bass and highest trebles. However, you have to pay the price difference.
Thanks very much Peter for the excellent kit,
Szabolcs
They are ok from here.
They are hosted in a server in hungary, so if you use a proxy it might block them or something
They are hosted in a server in hungary, so if you use a proxy it might block them or something
I now have about 50 record sides listening time. The sound was very good at the beginning but it seems to get a bit better as time goes on. But it might be something psychological 🙂
According to the manufacturer, the V-caps take 400 hours to break in.
You are in for a treat! Mine sounds simply fantastic.
BTW: The phono break in CD cannot be used. The phono stage needs a load at the input. I just played lots of records.... no problem!
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